Part 6: Milan
James: On Monday, 11/19 we took a six hour train ride back to Milan. The train was full, and a little late, but otherwise no problem. A long day though. We got a simple one star hotel room for $40 near the train station. We ate at Brek's and checked some e-mail, then went to bed. Milan turned out to be the city we had been dreading in Rome. It was characterless, congested, smoggy, and difficult to see on foot. In the 4th century, it was the capitol of the eastern Roman Empire, but nearly all traces of Roman buildings or life are gone, giving it a modern, industrial, and ugly feel. The next day we walked around town (it was sunny, but cold), and saw the huge gothic Duomo, the Galleria, and an excellent archeology museum (with great Greek painted ceramics), but is wasn't especially enjoyable. The food and gelato was good though. Milan wasn't that bad; it's just that after Rome, it was somewhat of a let down.
Everywhere we went in Milan (and much of Italy), people had pet dogs with them. They were mostly small and cute, but we also saw many German Shepards. They walk them on the city streets, and take them into cafes and bars, or leave them (often without a leash) outside a store or restaurant. We even saw one dog playing catch on the old cobbled streets with a ball. In Milan, they had a large park where many people were walking or playing with there dogs. They always made us smile.
The other thing we saw everywhere, even more than dogs, were couples kissing and making out in public. It would be hard to throw a rock in Italy and not hit some young (or older) couple in a passionate embrace. Many of them appeared to be attached at the mouth, or groping. And the Italian women are very sexy and dress so fashionably! WOW! What is it about Italy?
On Wednesday, 11/21, we took a shuttle bus to the airport for the final trip home. We were missing our home and Kitty by now, and were looking forward to returning. We got a kick out of watching the dogs at work at the airport. I wonder why bomb-sniffing dogs are so happy and friendly? We saw the dog at the airport standing on his hind legs drinking water from a large tub in a utility room. After 20 days together night and day, we were starting to get on each other's nerves. She even managed to lock herself in the bathroom in the airport and had to call for help (I could hear her in the men's room - "Yep, that's my wife"). I was trying to decide whether to get the jaws-of-life or send in the bomb-dog, when someone let her out. Why do these things only happen to Rachel?
Rachel: I should have been suspicious when the bathroom stall I entered had a large hole kicked into the bottom. Obviously, others had had trouble getting out.
After an 8 hr 45 min flight from Milan, we finally touched down in Newark. When we deplaned, the first Americans to greet us were these big beautiful black women in bright red jackets directing people to various customs and immigrations lines. I was so happy to see their beautiful faces, I could have just hugged them all! After being up nearly 24 hours straight, we were finally home!
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Italy. Show all posts
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Italian Adventure: Rome (Part 5)
Part 5: Rome
Rachel: While talking with other travelers, we kept hearing that Rome is a good place to go - some people even said it was their favorite place. We weren't even going to go, as we had heard so much about crowds, congestion, pollution, tourist-traps and pick-pockets, but we had a hunch that we may just like it (we also wanted a change from the small-town scene), so on Thursday 11/15, we took the train to Rome - and we were glad we did. In Arezzo, we were only a 1 hr 40 min train ride away from Rome and it would have been a shame not to go there. We ended up liking Rome immediately, and liked it more the longer we stayed. We found the traffic and tourism to be worse in Florence. Rome was a great city for wandering, maybe one of the best in the world. And it was warm, and after some scattered showers the first day, sunny with not a cloud in the sky. Who cares about visiting museums when the entire city of Rome is a sight unto itself? It's true, it's true, we loved Rome! What a pleasant surprise!
James: On the train to Rome we sat with a friendly lady from Poland who was living in Arezzo and was going to see the Pope on a day trip. She invited us to not only stay with her in Arezzo if we returned, but also with her parents back in Poland (we have their addresses just in case). In Rome we stayed in a perfect little hostel called "Casa Olmata" near the Colosseum. The hostel is seven long flights of stairs up to a roof top terrace with free Internet, communal dinners, and an unbeatable view of the city, especially at night. We ended up getting our own room on the 2nd floor for about $35 a night. The couple running the hostel were great. If you think it couldn't get any better, it also includes free breakfast (coupons for a hot drink of your choice and a croissant at a local cafe), free movies every night, and they cook and serve free full course dinners with wine twice a week Rick Steves discovered this place when it first opened, and includes it in his guidebook, so that most people staying there have Rick's book. Mirela, the owner, says that Rick is very handsome and funny (Che pasa, Signor Steves?) He stays there once a year he likes it so much.
Rachel: We walked all over Rome during the four days we were there, seeing the Colosseum, Palatine hill, the Roman Forum (superb ruins!), the Trevi fountain, the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, Trastevere, the Capitoline Hill, St. Peter's Basilica, and many other old buildings and churches that you can't help but stumble upon as you wander around. Another great thing about Rome is the street cats. They live around town, especially in the ancient ruins. In the city center, there is a thriving colony of street cats that live in a large area of ruins that is closed to humans. It was a sight in itself, as you could view the whole area from the modern street level (about 20 feet above the ancient street level) from a piazza surrounding the ruins. All the sights we saw were free (we didn't do any museums). We ate each day at "Brek's," a self-service restaurant with very tasty food (you get tired of pizza stands after a while). Rome is also an excellent place to roam around in at night. The Colosseum and many ruins are lit at night.
James: The second morning we were in Rome, we got to see a huge political demonstration and protest right outside our hotel window. For about two hours, thousands of people of all ages marched by in the streets, with banners, flags, drums, songs, chants - you name it. It seemed to be a mix of many different groups: There were labor supporters, environmental groups, the Communist Party, anti-war protesters, anti-WTO protesters, social reformers, the Socialist Party, Northern Italian separatists, and many others. Italy has a very strong liberal political current, although the conservative parties have usually controlled national politics. There is a history of political struggle in Italy that has resulted in violence at times, and the government seems to dissolve and reform continuously. It was great to see so many young people here who care about making the world a better place. It was certainly a good photo opportunity.
Rachel: We got to know the young travelers at our hostel (we were the oldest by far) at the communal dinner at the spaghetti party on Friday night. They served a tasty vegetarian dinner and the company was excellent. There were Italians, Canadians, Australians, Japanese, two ladies from Iceland and Americans eating with us. I got a little disgusted with some of their young and cocky attitudes--we were never like that of course. On our floor, a group of young Italians were in Rome for a weekend of good times. One of their group (and I think there is always someone like this in any such group) was the loudmouth class clown type. He kept shouting "Lucca" at the top of his lungs. James had gone to download some photos on the internet and I stayed in the room and relaxed. It was dark and deserted and I heard one of the Italians yell long and slow, "Loooocca…" and then he repeated the name, yelling it louder and louder. It sounded pretty creepy and I watched the clock hoping James would bust a move back to the room. I am not sure whether Lucca is a real person, as he never responded. That night, it would be perfectly quiet, then we would hear "LUCCA . . . LOOOOCCA!" from down the hall and we'd bust up laughing. Soon we were doing it ourselves everywhere we went. If we get another cat, we're going to have to name him… you guessed it "Lucca!" Actually, we met the Italians at dinner that night, and they were very polite, just full of youthful zest and exuberance.
Our last day in Rome, we split up for the afternoon-James to take photos and I managed to wander around on my own without getting lost. I went to the Pantheon and sat down to people watch. I joined with others cracking up as a little black poodle humped the leg of the little boy who had him by the leash. That little dog was something else. If the little boy walked around, the dog bit at the leash, and if he stopped, the dog started humping his leg! The little boy seemed oblivious to it all.
During our entire trip, I could count the overweight people I saw on one hand. Based on my observations, the reasons for this appear to be that their portion sizes are about 1/2 of what we are used to; their food is not smothered in processed cheese like our versions of Italian (and Mexican) food; they rarely snack on junk food and pops; their bread and food is made with basic wholesome ingredients and lacks the long list of artificial colors, flavors, additives, preservatives, etc., the desserts and sweets are never sickeningly sweet or rich or covered with thick frosting like ours, and their fruits and vegetables are very fresh and taste crisp and sweet unlike the mass produced chemically ridden produce we settle for at our "supermarkets." In Italy, it is definitely quality over quantity.
Rachel: While talking with other travelers, we kept hearing that Rome is a good place to go - some people even said it was their favorite place. We weren't even going to go, as we had heard so much about crowds, congestion, pollution, tourist-traps and pick-pockets, but we had a hunch that we may just like it (we also wanted a change from the small-town scene), so on Thursday 11/15, we took the train to Rome - and we were glad we did. In Arezzo, we were only a 1 hr 40 min train ride away from Rome and it would have been a shame not to go there. We ended up liking Rome immediately, and liked it more the longer we stayed. We found the traffic and tourism to be worse in Florence. Rome was a great city for wandering, maybe one of the best in the world. And it was warm, and after some scattered showers the first day, sunny with not a cloud in the sky. Who cares about visiting museums when the entire city of Rome is a sight unto itself? It's true, it's true, we loved Rome! What a pleasant surprise!
James: On the train to Rome we sat with a friendly lady from Poland who was living in Arezzo and was going to see the Pope on a day trip. She invited us to not only stay with her in Arezzo if we returned, but also with her parents back in Poland (we have their addresses just in case). In Rome we stayed in a perfect little hostel called "Casa Olmata" near the Colosseum. The hostel is seven long flights of stairs up to a roof top terrace with free Internet, communal dinners, and an unbeatable view of the city, especially at night. We ended up getting our own room on the 2nd floor for about $35 a night. The couple running the hostel were great. If you think it couldn't get any better, it also includes free breakfast (coupons for a hot drink of your choice and a croissant at a local cafe), free movies every night, and they cook and serve free full course dinners with wine twice a week Rick Steves discovered this place when it first opened, and includes it in his guidebook, so that most people staying there have Rick's book. Mirela, the owner, says that Rick is very handsome and funny (Che pasa, Signor Steves?) He stays there once a year he likes it so much.
Rachel: We walked all over Rome during the four days we were there, seeing the Colosseum, Palatine hill, the Roman Forum (superb ruins!), the Trevi fountain, the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, Trastevere, the Capitoline Hill, St. Peter's Basilica, and many other old buildings and churches that you can't help but stumble upon as you wander around. Another great thing about Rome is the street cats. They live around town, especially in the ancient ruins. In the city center, there is a thriving colony of street cats that live in a large area of ruins that is closed to humans. It was a sight in itself, as you could view the whole area from the modern street level (about 20 feet above the ancient street level) from a piazza surrounding the ruins. All the sights we saw were free (we didn't do any museums). We ate each day at "Brek's," a self-service restaurant with very tasty food (you get tired of pizza stands after a while). Rome is also an excellent place to roam around in at night. The Colosseum and many ruins are lit at night.
James: The second morning we were in Rome, we got to see a huge political demonstration and protest right outside our hotel window. For about two hours, thousands of people of all ages marched by in the streets, with banners, flags, drums, songs, chants - you name it. It seemed to be a mix of many different groups: There were labor supporters, environmental groups, the Communist Party, anti-war protesters, anti-WTO protesters, social reformers, the Socialist Party, Northern Italian separatists, and many others. Italy has a very strong liberal political current, although the conservative parties have usually controlled national politics. There is a history of political struggle in Italy that has resulted in violence at times, and the government seems to dissolve and reform continuously. It was great to see so many young people here who care about making the world a better place. It was certainly a good photo opportunity.
Rachel: We got to know the young travelers at our hostel (we were the oldest by far) at the communal dinner at the spaghetti party on Friday night. They served a tasty vegetarian dinner and the company was excellent. There were Italians, Canadians, Australians, Japanese, two ladies from Iceland and Americans eating with us. I got a little disgusted with some of their young and cocky attitudes--we were never like that of course. On our floor, a group of young Italians were in Rome for a weekend of good times. One of their group (and I think there is always someone like this in any such group) was the loudmouth class clown type. He kept shouting "Lucca" at the top of his lungs. James had gone to download some photos on the internet and I stayed in the room and relaxed. It was dark and deserted and I heard one of the Italians yell long and slow, "Loooocca…" and then he repeated the name, yelling it louder and louder. It sounded pretty creepy and I watched the clock hoping James would bust a move back to the room. I am not sure whether Lucca is a real person, as he never responded. That night, it would be perfectly quiet, then we would hear "LUCCA . . . LOOOOCCA!" from down the hall and we'd bust up laughing. Soon we were doing it ourselves everywhere we went. If we get another cat, we're going to have to name him… you guessed it "Lucca!" Actually, we met the Italians at dinner that night, and they were very polite, just full of youthful zest and exuberance.
Our last day in Rome, we split up for the afternoon-James to take photos and I managed to wander around on my own without getting lost. I went to the Pantheon and sat down to people watch. I joined with others cracking up as a little black poodle humped the leg of the little boy who had him by the leash. That little dog was something else. If the little boy walked around, the dog bit at the leash, and if he stopped, the dog started humping his leg! The little boy seemed oblivious to it all.
During our entire trip, I could count the overweight people I saw on one hand. Based on my observations, the reasons for this appear to be that their portion sizes are about 1/2 of what we are used to; their food is not smothered in processed cheese like our versions of Italian (and Mexican) food; they rarely snack on junk food and pops; their bread and food is made with basic wholesome ingredients and lacks the long list of artificial colors, flavors, additives, preservatives, etc., the desserts and sweets are never sickeningly sweet or rich or covered with thick frosting like ours, and their fruits and vegetables are very fresh and taste crisp and sweet unlike the mass produced chemically ridden produce we settle for at our "supermarkets." In Italy, it is definitely quality over quantity.
Italian Adventure: Arezzo (Part 4)
Part 4: Arezzo
James: On Tuesday, 11/13, we took a bus to Arezzo. It rained on the way to the bus, stopped while on the bus, and of course started pouring as soon as we got off. We took a city bus to the youth hostel, which is an enormous villa with a huge garden just outside of town. We got a nice room to ourselves for $30. This was the only hostel we stayed in that wasn't full. Arezzo is a small medieval town in eastern Tuscany, and we liked it immensely. For some reason, we just were in a bad funk in Siena, and only by leaving town could we shake it. Arezzo was perfect: small, little traffic, very friendly people, excellent sights, no tourists, and great food and best of all it didn't rain (at least not much). Arezzo is a walled city with an enormous fortress from the days of warring city-states. The fort was free, and is still in a pristine condition. It was set in a lovely city park, and we walked nearly alone through the entire compound, the ramparts, buildings, caverns, towers, etc. It was right out of The Lord of the Rings or Dungeons and Dragons. We also toured a Roman amphitheater and aquaduct, and some of the best churches of our whole trip.
Rachel: We especially liked the church of San Francesco, which was simple and unpretentious, but with a quiet beauty that the gaudy over-decorated duomos can't come close to. Excellent art and frescos inside as well by the Piero della Francesca. Unlike Florence and Siena, Arezzo was a charming town that really grew on us the more we stayed.
James: We also found the best gelato of our whole trip here (gelato is the real reason we came back to Italy: Imagine the greatest home-made ice cream you've ever had, and it will pale compared to gelato. It seems to be a cross between custard and ice cream, but there's nothing like it. It's my favorite dessert of all, hands down). Meanwhile, my razor had gotten dull and unusable by this time, so we stopped into to a little tiny barbershop on a side street to get a shave. Eros, the curator, was a classic little old Italian man, but he was super friendly with us, and we had a good time hanging out with him. He was very curious about my digital camera, and I showed him my photos on the display. He wanted to know how much it costs to buy one. Getting a shave in an old-fashioned barbershop is always a treat for me. We also met a few people walking around, Alfiera, a poet, and a cantankerous old man who we couldn't keep quiet (his friend kept telling him to "Shut Up.")
James: On Tuesday, 11/13, we took a bus to Arezzo. It rained on the way to the bus, stopped while on the bus, and of course started pouring as soon as we got off. We took a city bus to the youth hostel, which is an enormous villa with a huge garden just outside of town. We got a nice room to ourselves for $30. This was the only hostel we stayed in that wasn't full. Arezzo is a small medieval town in eastern Tuscany, and we liked it immensely. For some reason, we just were in a bad funk in Siena, and only by leaving town could we shake it. Arezzo was perfect: small, little traffic, very friendly people, excellent sights, no tourists, and great food and best of all it didn't rain (at least not much). Arezzo is a walled city with an enormous fortress from the days of warring city-states. The fort was free, and is still in a pristine condition. It was set in a lovely city park, and we walked nearly alone through the entire compound, the ramparts, buildings, caverns, towers, etc. It was right out of The Lord of the Rings or Dungeons and Dragons. We also toured a Roman amphitheater and aquaduct, and some of the best churches of our whole trip.
Rachel: We especially liked the church of San Francesco, which was simple and unpretentious, but with a quiet beauty that the gaudy over-decorated duomos can't come close to. Excellent art and frescos inside as well by the Piero della Francesca. Unlike Florence and Siena, Arezzo was a charming town that really grew on us the more we stayed.
James: We also found the best gelato of our whole trip here (gelato is the real reason we came back to Italy: Imagine the greatest home-made ice cream you've ever had, and it will pale compared to gelato. It seems to be a cross between custard and ice cream, but there's nothing like it. It's my favorite dessert of all, hands down). Meanwhile, my razor had gotten dull and unusable by this time, so we stopped into to a little tiny barbershop on a side street to get a shave. Eros, the curator, was a classic little old Italian man, but he was super friendly with us, and we had a good time hanging out with him. He was very curious about my digital camera, and I showed him my photos on the display. He wanted to know how much it costs to buy one. Getting a shave in an old-fashioned barbershop is always a treat for me. We also met a few people walking around, Alfiera, a poet, and a cantankerous old man who we couldn't keep quiet (his friend kept telling him to "Shut Up.")
Italian Adventure: Siena (Part 3)
Part 3: Siena
James: On Friday, 11/9, we caught a bus to Siena, where we splurged for a hotel room ($55 for a double, bath and shower down the hall) at Albergo Bernini, which is run by the very friendly accordion-wielding Mauro. We kind of got tired of hostels after a while, and it was great to have our own room. It even had heat (the hostels never do), which turned out to be a good thing, as Siena was bitterly cold. We made good friends with Chico, a black and white cat that lived at the hotel. Chico visited us each morning on his "rounds," sitting on the bed and playing with us (a great way to start the day). One day when we returned to our room, Chico was inside waiting to bolt out the door-he must've gotten in when the room was being cleaned that day.
Rachel: We just walked around town the first night. Siena is a small-to-medium sized town that has perfectly preserved medieval streets and buildings, including the beautiful Piazza il Campo, the public square that is the heart of the city. The winding cobblestone streets, tall stone and "burnt siena" colored brick buildings and archways make it a beautiful place. As a bonus, traffic is highly restricted in the city center, which made it perfect for leisurely strolls through the old city streets. We found our favorite pizza place on our whole trip almost next door to our hotel: "Mister Pizza," which might lack a good Italian name, but more than made up for it in heavenly pizza ($1.30 for a huge slice). We had tried one or two other places before finding it, but once we did, we ate there everyday. James's favorite was potato pizza, without red sauce, covered with thinly sliced potatoes and rosemary.
James: At one of the pizzerias, we ordered a stuffed spinach pizza, then asked for it "caldo" or heated (all food is made ahead of time, and when you order, they will heat it for you in ovens). The lady getting us our food ignored us, so we asked again, then she kept repeating the price, so finally I pointed to the oven and asked, "Caldo?" when she stormed off in a rage, screaming "Caldo" and getting into a huge argument/fight with a manager, who eventually took her in another room and closed the door. I don't know if I was being especially rude, or if I was the tenth person in a row who had insisted that she heat up some pizza, but I definitely didn't make her day. I almost thought she was going to come out front with a knife, her manager trying to drag her back, so we got out of there fast and ate on the go. As we were leaving, another lady came out, and the next customer ordered and asked for it "caldo," and they popped it in the oven with a smile.
Rachel: An Italian we met at an internet cafe recommended "Ciao," a self-service cafeteria, with delicious home-cooked meals for an unbeatable price. These cafeterias ended up being the best places to eat, with amazing and varied meals with wine for about $5 per person. Just take your tray, and pick out whatever you want--salad bar, dessert table and cooks behind counters cooking up 3 types of pasta or risotto dishes to choose from-all prepared in smaller quantities--very fast and very fresh.
James: The next day, and all other days in Siena, it was cold and rainy. Rachel caught a cold, which put her in a crabby mood for the first time (she had been doing very good so far, which is saying something. Rachel, at least when traveling, is kind of a cross between Jessica Tandy in Driving Miss Daisy and Gelsomina from the film La Strada). We walked around town and saw the Duomo, and had some good food, but the rain just wouldn't let us enjoy ourselves much. Unfortunately, our favorite activity is walking (we really don't see many "sights") and either rain or cold doesn't bother us much, but the two together were miserable. Rachel's journal for Siena has one word above all: Rain! Our first day was so windy that our little umbrella was nearly destroyed! From then until the end of our trip, when we were huddled under our pathetic twisted umbrella in the rain, we referred to ourselves as "Les Miserables."
A payphone was right outside our door at Albergo Bernini, and each night a couple from America would call home to talk to their kids and their grandfather about what they did that day. They had rented a car, and were having a much more exciting and enjoyable trip than we were, so we began to look forward to eavesdropping on them each night. The father had such a wonderfully pleasing and joyful way of speaking with his kids. I had wanted to go out a meet him, but I never did, not wanting to spoil a strange notion of mystical being that I had in my mind, who calls from exotic destinations around the world and lovingly describes the amazing things he has found. In better times, this guy would have been the storyteller of his tribe, and probably a memorable one.
Our last day in Siena, I got the great idea to take a road trip to the picturesque hill town of Montalcino, in southern Tuscany. It rained on the way to the station, where we missed the bus and had to wait for two hours. (Rachel: It was a three hour wait.) As soon as we got on the bus, the sun came out and there wasn't a cloud in the sky. Our bus ride through the vineyards and villages of Tuscany was great. However, the second we got off the bus in Montalcino, guess what happened? It started to rain… After walking around the deserted town in the cold rain for five minutes with our pathetic umbrella, Rachel had HAD ENOUGH! She took the next bus back, but I stayed. It stopped raining soon, and I took a two hour hike through the country side, passing vineyards, old churches and farms. I finished my day with an excellent glass of local wine in a pub. It turned out to be a great day-trip after all. Rachel visited the Church of San Domenico, where Saint Catherine is buried (the first female saint) and her preserved head and finger are on display for pilgrims. More phrases from Rachel's journal for today: I want to go home! I miss Kitty! We checked our e-mail for reports on our cat (she was doing just fine, but a little lonely).
James: On Friday, 11/9, we caught a bus to Siena, where we splurged for a hotel room ($55 for a double, bath and shower down the hall) at Albergo Bernini, which is run by the very friendly accordion-wielding Mauro. We kind of got tired of hostels after a while, and it was great to have our own room. It even had heat (the hostels never do), which turned out to be a good thing, as Siena was bitterly cold. We made good friends with Chico, a black and white cat that lived at the hotel. Chico visited us each morning on his "rounds," sitting on the bed and playing with us (a great way to start the day). One day when we returned to our room, Chico was inside waiting to bolt out the door-he must've gotten in when the room was being cleaned that day.
Rachel: We just walked around town the first night. Siena is a small-to-medium sized town that has perfectly preserved medieval streets and buildings, including the beautiful Piazza il Campo, the public square that is the heart of the city. The winding cobblestone streets, tall stone and "burnt siena" colored brick buildings and archways make it a beautiful place. As a bonus, traffic is highly restricted in the city center, which made it perfect for leisurely strolls through the old city streets. We found our favorite pizza place on our whole trip almost next door to our hotel: "Mister Pizza," which might lack a good Italian name, but more than made up for it in heavenly pizza ($1.30 for a huge slice). We had tried one or two other places before finding it, but once we did, we ate there everyday. James's favorite was potato pizza, without red sauce, covered with thinly sliced potatoes and rosemary.
James: At one of the pizzerias, we ordered a stuffed spinach pizza, then asked for it "caldo" or heated (all food is made ahead of time, and when you order, they will heat it for you in ovens). The lady getting us our food ignored us, so we asked again, then she kept repeating the price, so finally I pointed to the oven and asked, "Caldo?" when she stormed off in a rage, screaming "Caldo" and getting into a huge argument/fight with a manager, who eventually took her in another room and closed the door. I don't know if I was being especially rude, or if I was the tenth person in a row who had insisted that she heat up some pizza, but I definitely didn't make her day. I almost thought she was going to come out front with a knife, her manager trying to drag her back, so we got out of there fast and ate on the go. As we were leaving, another lady came out, and the next customer ordered and asked for it "caldo," and they popped it in the oven with a smile.
Rachel: An Italian we met at an internet cafe recommended "Ciao," a self-service cafeteria, with delicious home-cooked meals for an unbeatable price. These cafeterias ended up being the best places to eat, with amazing and varied meals with wine for about $5 per person. Just take your tray, and pick out whatever you want--salad bar, dessert table and cooks behind counters cooking up 3 types of pasta or risotto dishes to choose from-all prepared in smaller quantities--very fast and very fresh.
James: The next day, and all other days in Siena, it was cold and rainy. Rachel caught a cold, which put her in a crabby mood for the first time (she had been doing very good so far, which is saying something. Rachel, at least when traveling, is kind of a cross between Jessica Tandy in Driving Miss Daisy and Gelsomina from the film La Strada). We walked around town and saw the Duomo, and had some good food, but the rain just wouldn't let us enjoy ourselves much. Unfortunately, our favorite activity is walking (we really don't see many "sights") and either rain or cold doesn't bother us much, but the two together were miserable. Rachel's journal for Siena has one word above all: Rain! Our first day was so windy that our little umbrella was nearly destroyed! From then until the end of our trip, when we were huddled under our pathetic twisted umbrella in the rain, we referred to ourselves as "Les Miserables."
A payphone was right outside our door at Albergo Bernini, and each night a couple from America would call home to talk to their kids and their grandfather about what they did that day. They had rented a car, and were having a much more exciting and enjoyable trip than we were, so we began to look forward to eavesdropping on them each night. The father had such a wonderfully pleasing and joyful way of speaking with his kids. I had wanted to go out a meet him, but I never did, not wanting to spoil a strange notion of mystical being that I had in my mind, who calls from exotic destinations around the world and lovingly describes the amazing things he has found. In better times, this guy would have been the storyteller of his tribe, and probably a memorable one.
Our last day in Siena, I got the great idea to take a road trip to the picturesque hill town of Montalcino, in southern Tuscany. It rained on the way to the station, where we missed the bus and had to wait for two hours. (Rachel: It was a three hour wait.) As soon as we got on the bus, the sun came out and there wasn't a cloud in the sky. Our bus ride through the vineyards and villages of Tuscany was great. However, the second we got off the bus in Montalcino, guess what happened? It started to rain… After walking around the deserted town in the cold rain for five minutes with our pathetic umbrella, Rachel had HAD ENOUGH! She took the next bus back, but I stayed. It stopped raining soon, and I took a two hour hike through the country side, passing vineyards, old churches and farms. I finished my day with an excellent glass of local wine in a pub. It turned out to be a great day-trip after all. Rachel visited the Church of San Domenico, where Saint Catherine is buried (the first female saint) and her preserved head and finger are on display for pilgrims. More phrases from Rachel's journal for today: I want to go home! I miss Kitty! We checked our e-mail for reports on our cat (she was doing just fine, but a little lonely).
Italian Adventure: Florence (Part 2)
Part 2: Florence
James: On Monday, 11/5, we took the train to Milan, with the help of Anna from our hostel, then got train tickets to Florence. It was our first time negotiating the train system, but it really was very easy. The Milan train station is an amazing building, built in the 20s by Mussolini. It is a monumental and stunning building with marble walls, fresco paintings, and a glass roof. We found the train system to be a great way to get around. On our first trip, we drove a car, but we could hardly imagine now negotiating Italy and its crazy streets. We got the last two beds in the Florence youth hostel. We were surprised to find most of the hostels and backpacker hotels to be full on our trip. Italy, being warmer, is still popular in the off-season, and the independent travelers have not let the fear of terrorism stop them from coming, so it was always very lively. We could tell that the tour groups and busses were way down, and businesses that rely on them are suffering right now. At night, it was obvious that many restaurants were empty.
Rachel: Our first night in Florence we walked around, and I bought some roasted chestnuts from a street vendor. It was our first time eating them and they were good! Our first view of the duomo at night was stunning. Our first day in Florence was rainy off and on, so I bought a cheap umbrella for $5. We toured the Uffizi art gallery, which was good to see, although a bit overwhelming. After a couple hours, we found it hard to concentrate on the paintings. We liked the Botticelli, Raphael, Carravaggio and Rembrandt paintings especially. The rain stopped in the afternoon, and we walked around town and ate some pizza from a by-the-slice pizzeria, which usually have tasty and inexpensive food. At the hostel, we stayed in a four-bed room with various people, first a couple our age from Australia (nearing the end of their 7 months' long travel), then two young Japanese (Hiro and Takwaya (sp?)), who were very friendly, but didn't speak much English, and a young outgoing Canadian from Toronto, Rob. It was a very nice hostel, with movies every night and breakfast (granola and yogurt). They kept showing The Godfather each night for some reason. Except for the Australian couple, who were our age, the hostel was exclusively younger travelers in their 20s. Although we got to know our roommates, we had a harder time fitting in here. Most of the kids smoked, making the common rooms unbearable. We enjoyed walking around Florence by night also, and always found something good to eat, although our staples were pizza, foccacia, and pasta.
James: It would be rainy off and on throughout our stay in Florence, but it was warm and it didn't bother us much (not yet anyway). We toured the Duomo, one of the largest churches in Europe, with the greatest dome of them all, built by Brunelleschi in the 15th century. We climbed to the top of the dome, which had great (although cloudy) views of Florence. We spent a lot of time walking all over town, especially the Arno River and the famous Ponte Vechio (a multi-story pedestrian bridge from the 14th century). I also had the chance to meet our friends John and Mike from Minnesota for some good food and beer. By chance, we just happened to all be in Florence together at the same time.
Rachel: My idea of fine Florentine dining was getting great pizza slices to go and taking it back to Ponte Vechio to eat on the bridge at night. Our last day in Florence, we took a day trip to Fiesole, and small town overlooking the Arno valley. It rained a bit, but we had a good time walking around town, and we took a long hike through the forests and countryside outside of town. Back in Florence, I found some pretty scarves and a great outdoor market. James hates to hear this phrase, but in my opinion "the best shopping" was in Florence-not that I shopped all that much.
James: On Monday, 11/5, we took the train to Milan, with the help of Anna from our hostel, then got train tickets to Florence. It was our first time negotiating the train system, but it really was very easy. The Milan train station is an amazing building, built in the 20s by Mussolini. It is a monumental and stunning building with marble walls, fresco paintings, and a glass roof. We found the train system to be a great way to get around. On our first trip, we drove a car, but we could hardly imagine now negotiating Italy and its crazy streets. We got the last two beds in the Florence youth hostel. We were surprised to find most of the hostels and backpacker hotels to be full on our trip. Italy, being warmer, is still popular in the off-season, and the independent travelers have not let the fear of terrorism stop them from coming, so it was always very lively. We could tell that the tour groups and busses were way down, and businesses that rely on them are suffering right now. At night, it was obvious that many restaurants were empty.
Rachel: Our first night in Florence we walked around, and I bought some roasted chestnuts from a street vendor. It was our first time eating them and they were good! Our first view of the duomo at night was stunning. Our first day in Florence was rainy off and on, so I bought a cheap umbrella for $5. We toured the Uffizi art gallery, which was good to see, although a bit overwhelming. After a couple hours, we found it hard to concentrate on the paintings. We liked the Botticelli, Raphael, Carravaggio and Rembrandt paintings especially. The rain stopped in the afternoon, and we walked around town and ate some pizza from a by-the-slice pizzeria, which usually have tasty and inexpensive food. At the hostel, we stayed in a four-bed room with various people, first a couple our age from Australia (nearing the end of their 7 months' long travel), then two young Japanese (Hiro and Takwaya (sp?)), who were very friendly, but didn't speak much English, and a young outgoing Canadian from Toronto, Rob. It was a very nice hostel, with movies every night and breakfast (granola and yogurt). They kept showing The Godfather each night for some reason. Except for the Australian couple, who were our age, the hostel was exclusively younger travelers in their 20s. Although we got to know our roommates, we had a harder time fitting in here. Most of the kids smoked, making the common rooms unbearable. We enjoyed walking around Florence by night also, and always found something good to eat, although our staples were pizza, foccacia, and pasta.
James: It would be rainy off and on throughout our stay in Florence, but it was warm and it didn't bother us much (not yet anyway). We toured the Duomo, one of the largest churches in Europe, with the greatest dome of them all, built by Brunelleschi in the 15th century. We climbed to the top of the dome, which had great (although cloudy) views of Florence. We spent a lot of time walking all over town, especially the Arno River and the famous Ponte Vechio (a multi-story pedestrian bridge from the 14th century). I also had the chance to meet our friends John and Mike from Minnesota for some good food and beer. By chance, we just happened to all be in Florence together at the same time.
Rachel: My idea of fine Florentine dining was getting great pizza slices to go and taking it back to Ponte Vechio to eat on the bridge at night. Our last day in Florence, we took a day trip to Fiesole, and small town overlooking the Arno valley. It rained a bit, but we had a good time walking around town, and we took a long hike through the forests and countryside outside of town. Back in Florence, I found some pretty scarves and a great outdoor market. James hates to hear this phrase, but in my opinion "the best shopping" was in Florence-not that I shopped all that much.
Italian Adventure: Menaggio (Part 1)
Introduction
James: Our first trip to Europe was a huge success and tremendous fun. Our three week circle tour of Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Italy was enjoyable from start to finish. For the past several years, I have wanted to return to Europe, especially to Italy. Rachel usually watches Rick Steve's Travels in Euorpe on PBS, and I had been growing increasingly frustrated at watching Rick travel, but not being able to go ourselves. We always had a trip planned six months away. In the spring, we talked about going in the fall, and in the fall, we talked about going next spring. I had been looking into traveling on my own in 2001, which I think finally caused Rachel to realize that I would be going, with or without her, and we finally began to get serious about planning a trip. I left the decision where to go up to her, but we both liked Italy so much on our first trip that it was an obvious choice.
Rachel: We chose November 1st was because the "off season" airfare to Italy starting November 1st drops dramatically from about $800 to $500, thus saving us about $600. Additionally, I did not want to leave Minnesota in the early fall because I wanted to enjoy Minnesota's lovely autumn and Halloween.
James: Rachel's packing began months ahead of time, with a detailed list and preparations. My packing begins the night before. We brought so little that it really didn't take very long to assemble everything. Eventually, Rachel could get me so mad by asking, "Do you think I should bring these pants?," which was a daily event for some time. But I suppose that my packing was made much smoother and easier by her careful planning ahead, so I will give her thanks despite the pulled hair.
Rachel: The night before when James began to pack, the first thing he asked for was my list and then he went through it item by item to make sure I hadn't forgotten anything! It takes careful planning and weighing every ounce-as it turned out each of our packs weighed only 15 lbs. And I had carefully planned and gotten ready many of the items he packed.
James: Our flight to Milan through Newark was very good. Both arriving and leaving Newark, we flew next to the Manhattan skyline, and even saw the powerful lights at the WTC evacuation sight on the way out. We also flew over Ireland, southern England, the English Channel and northern France at night, with all the city lights glowing, and a full moon reflecting on the ocean and lakes. It was perfectly clear and a truly amazing sight, probably the best I've ever had from an airplane. As if trying to top that, we flew over the Swiss Alps at sunrise, which was also spectacular. The only other memorable event was that a little girl sitting across the aisle from Rachel threw up all over the floor when landing in Milan. For some reason, these things always happen to Rachel.
Rachel: The only two little kids on the whole plane had to sit across the aisle from me-coughing nearly the whole trip. It wasn't my fault I sat in the aisle seat. What can I say?
Part 1: Menaggio
James: In Milan, we caught a bus that would take us directly to Menaggio. However, just north of Milan, traffic came to a full stop. Europeans treat a traffic jam as a kind of impromptu party. Every gets out of their cars, people break out food and drink, and wander around talking to other people. It was something to see. A group of college kids in front of us even planted a school or team flag of some sort by the side of the road, and broke out the champagne and set up a buffet. Eventually, many police cars, tow trucks, ambulances, and a crane passed us on the shoulder, and we heard that an accident was blocking the highway. Soon cars were turning around on the highway and heading back on the shoulder. Our bus couldn't turn around, so we waited about two hours before continuing. Three semi trucks had collided and rolled over, requiring the crane to remove them from the highway. I don't know if anyone was hurt, but the trucks didn't appear to be badly damaged, and I think we only saw one ambulance.
Rachel: After finally clearing the accident, we made our way around the beautiful Lake Como to Menaggio, talking with our driver Antonello, who was exceptionally friendly, and a good driver, considering the roads are about 20 feet wide with a nasty drop into the lake if we missed a turn. We had been to Menaggio on our last trip, and it was our favorite city in all of Europe, and it did not disappoint this trip either. The weather was perfect: warm and sunny, with some of the best scenery in Italy. It really is hard to beat. It is a small town in the foothills of the alps, between the steep mountains and the stunning lake. The people were friendly and had a pleasant, warm, and relaxed attitude. Although the town is great, we really came to stay at the La Primula youth hostel. Despite being an exceptional hostel in every conventional way, their real claim to fame is the communal dinners that they serve each night. Italian women work all afternoon to prepare a traditional multi-course meal with wine, bread, salad, soup, pasta, main course and dessert. They even served us vegetarian meals on request, although more often than not, vegetarian meals were served as a matter of course. And best of all were the large communal tables where we shared stories and get to know fellow travelers. We met an American biker, Josh, who is living in Switzerland, two French ladies (Isobel and Veronique), a group of American girls who were studying art and architecture in Florence, a web-designer from Amsterdam (Anna), and many others. It was a great mix of the more numerous younger crowd, and some older folks (like us). The hostel closes on November 5th, and the last night they had a Ska party, with friends from Menaggio and travelers filling the hostel to overflowing. Free (spiked) punch, an excellent buffet, and great (if loud - hey, we're getting old) music made for a great time.
James: During our three days there, we took hikes in the surrounding hills, visiting small towns, country lanes, old churches and spiritual sites, and medieval walls and buildings. It was definitely the best hiking that we would encounter on our whole trip. We were taking a short break in the small village of Camozzi, when the whole town came towards us with flowers and banners. We had sat on benches next to an old war memorial, and this must have been a kind of Memorial Day. All the veterans in the town had their uniforms on, and they read off the names of those who had died in various wars. A priest said a blessing, kids held banners and flags, and the mayor made a speech. After about 30 minutes, it dissolved about as quickly as it had started, and we continued on our way. We visited an ancient oak tree on a hill side called Rogolone, where people used to meet to make important decisions in medieval times, and also the church of San Giorgio with a crypt with rows of bleached skulls on the shelves, and frescoes from the 13th century. About a 5 1/2 hour hike - Rachel even made a new friend on the way. We also took the ferry around the lake to the town of Varenna, where we hiked around and visited the old fort that overlooks the lake (Castello di Vezio). We had to bring warm clothing everywhere, because as soon as the sun set behind the mountains, it turned instantly cold.
Rachel: Our first night in the hostel we slept in separate dorm rooms, but the second night we were told that we could have our own room. There were four bunks, but they said it wouldn't be a problem to have it to ourselves. It was a little surprising when at 11 o'clock that night, a young couple [he was Bavarian; she was from Spain] walked into our room and began unpacking. They had come in late and these were the last beds left. It wasn't too bad sharing, but they were making out together in the morning in the same bunk bed (it's kind of a romantic place). But we had the room to ourselves on the last night. The weekend was actually a long weekend in Europe, as most people have All Saints Day off, so many Europeans were traveling.
James: In the evenings, the Italians come out to stroll around the central piazza, and by the lakeside. It is a wonderful and very social scene (it sure beats everyone staying inside and watching television). I was taking a picture of a Smart Car, when an older Italian gentleman stopped us and talked to us about the little cars, his country, and the war in Afghanistan. Soon, his family and friends joined us and we had a lively little circle around us engaged in a big discussion. It was mostly in Italian, but the man that we first met translated for us. We really didn't get a chance to say much, as they all talked at once. We found friendly Italians all over, but we found that only in the smaller towns that people talked to us on the streets.
James: Our first trip to Europe was a huge success and tremendous fun. Our three week circle tour of Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Italy was enjoyable from start to finish. For the past several years, I have wanted to return to Europe, especially to Italy. Rachel usually watches Rick Steve's Travels in Euorpe on PBS, and I had been growing increasingly frustrated at watching Rick travel, but not being able to go ourselves. We always had a trip planned six months away. In the spring, we talked about going in the fall, and in the fall, we talked about going next spring. I had been looking into traveling on my own in 2001, which I think finally caused Rachel to realize that I would be going, with or without her, and we finally began to get serious about planning a trip. I left the decision where to go up to her, but we both liked Italy so much on our first trip that it was an obvious choice.
Rachel: We chose November 1st was because the "off season" airfare to Italy starting November 1st drops dramatically from about $800 to $500, thus saving us about $600. Additionally, I did not want to leave Minnesota in the early fall because I wanted to enjoy Minnesota's lovely autumn and Halloween.
James: Rachel's packing began months ahead of time, with a detailed list and preparations. My packing begins the night before. We brought so little that it really didn't take very long to assemble everything. Eventually, Rachel could get me so mad by asking, "Do you think I should bring these pants?," which was a daily event for some time. But I suppose that my packing was made much smoother and easier by her careful planning ahead, so I will give her thanks despite the pulled hair.
Rachel: The night before when James began to pack, the first thing he asked for was my list and then he went through it item by item to make sure I hadn't forgotten anything! It takes careful planning and weighing every ounce-as it turned out each of our packs weighed only 15 lbs. And I had carefully planned and gotten ready many of the items he packed.
James: Our flight to Milan through Newark was very good. Both arriving and leaving Newark, we flew next to the Manhattan skyline, and even saw the powerful lights at the WTC evacuation sight on the way out. We also flew over Ireland, southern England, the English Channel and northern France at night, with all the city lights glowing, and a full moon reflecting on the ocean and lakes. It was perfectly clear and a truly amazing sight, probably the best I've ever had from an airplane. As if trying to top that, we flew over the Swiss Alps at sunrise, which was also spectacular. The only other memorable event was that a little girl sitting across the aisle from Rachel threw up all over the floor when landing in Milan. For some reason, these things always happen to Rachel.
Rachel: The only two little kids on the whole plane had to sit across the aisle from me-coughing nearly the whole trip. It wasn't my fault I sat in the aisle seat. What can I say?
Part 1: Menaggio
James: In Milan, we caught a bus that would take us directly to Menaggio. However, just north of Milan, traffic came to a full stop. Europeans treat a traffic jam as a kind of impromptu party. Every gets out of their cars, people break out food and drink, and wander around talking to other people. It was something to see. A group of college kids in front of us even planted a school or team flag of some sort by the side of the road, and broke out the champagne and set up a buffet. Eventually, many police cars, tow trucks, ambulances, and a crane passed us on the shoulder, and we heard that an accident was blocking the highway. Soon cars were turning around on the highway and heading back on the shoulder. Our bus couldn't turn around, so we waited about two hours before continuing. Three semi trucks had collided and rolled over, requiring the crane to remove them from the highway. I don't know if anyone was hurt, but the trucks didn't appear to be badly damaged, and I think we only saw one ambulance.
Rachel: After finally clearing the accident, we made our way around the beautiful Lake Como to Menaggio, talking with our driver Antonello, who was exceptionally friendly, and a good driver, considering the roads are about 20 feet wide with a nasty drop into the lake if we missed a turn. We had been to Menaggio on our last trip, and it was our favorite city in all of Europe, and it did not disappoint this trip either. The weather was perfect: warm and sunny, with some of the best scenery in Italy. It really is hard to beat. It is a small town in the foothills of the alps, between the steep mountains and the stunning lake. The people were friendly and had a pleasant, warm, and relaxed attitude. Although the town is great, we really came to stay at the La Primula youth hostel. Despite being an exceptional hostel in every conventional way, their real claim to fame is the communal dinners that they serve each night. Italian women work all afternoon to prepare a traditional multi-course meal with wine, bread, salad, soup, pasta, main course and dessert. They even served us vegetarian meals on request, although more often than not, vegetarian meals were served as a matter of course. And best of all were the large communal tables where we shared stories and get to know fellow travelers. We met an American biker, Josh, who is living in Switzerland, two French ladies (Isobel and Veronique), a group of American girls who were studying art and architecture in Florence, a web-designer from Amsterdam (Anna), and many others. It was a great mix of the more numerous younger crowd, and some older folks (like us). The hostel closes on November 5th, and the last night they had a Ska party, with friends from Menaggio and travelers filling the hostel to overflowing. Free (spiked) punch, an excellent buffet, and great (if loud - hey, we're getting old) music made for a great time.
James: During our three days there, we took hikes in the surrounding hills, visiting small towns, country lanes, old churches and spiritual sites, and medieval walls and buildings. It was definitely the best hiking that we would encounter on our whole trip. We were taking a short break in the small village of Camozzi, when the whole town came towards us with flowers and banners. We had sat on benches next to an old war memorial, and this must have been a kind of Memorial Day. All the veterans in the town had their uniforms on, and they read off the names of those who had died in various wars. A priest said a blessing, kids held banners and flags, and the mayor made a speech. After about 30 minutes, it dissolved about as quickly as it had started, and we continued on our way. We visited an ancient oak tree on a hill side called Rogolone, where people used to meet to make important decisions in medieval times, and also the church of San Giorgio with a crypt with rows of bleached skulls on the shelves, and frescoes from the 13th century. About a 5 1/2 hour hike - Rachel even made a new friend on the way. We also took the ferry around the lake to the town of Varenna, where we hiked around and visited the old fort that overlooks the lake (Castello di Vezio). We had to bring warm clothing everywhere, because as soon as the sun set behind the mountains, it turned instantly cold.
Rachel: Our first night in the hostel we slept in separate dorm rooms, but the second night we were told that we could have our own room. There were four bunks, but they said it wouldn't be a problem to have it to ourselves. It was a little surprising when at 11 o'clock that night, a young couple [he was Bavarian; she was from Spain] walked into our room and began unpacking. They had come in late and these were the last beds left. It wasn't too bad sharing, but they were making out together in the morning in the same bunk bed (it's kind of a romantic place). But we had the room to ourselves on the last night. The weekend was actually a long weekend in Europe, as most people have All Saints Day off, so many Europeans were traveling.
James: In the evenings, the Italians come out to stroll around the central piazza, and by the lakeside. It is a wonderful and very social scene (it sure beats everyone staying inside and watching television). I was taking a picture of a Smart Car, when an older Italian gentleman stopped us and talked to us about the little cars, his country, and the war in Afghanistan. Soon, his family and friends joined us and we had a lively little circle around us engaged in a big discussion. It was mostly in Italian, but the man that we first met translated for us. We really didn't get a chance to say much, as they all talked at once. We found friendly Italians all over, but we found that only in the smaller towns that people talked to us on the streets.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Real Italy: Parma
You won't easily find a small town like Parma anywhere in the world. Its unique blend of art, history and culture will strike you as soon as you start strolling along the wonderful streets lined with beautiful palaces and old churches or in one of the town's parks. Parma is not just a beautiful town, it is a small jewel where you can experience the same stylish atmosphere and ways of life typical of some of the best European capitals, not to mention its fabulous cuisine!
Altitude: meters above sea level
Nearest airport: MILANO and BOLOGNA
Train connections: easily accessible from MILANO and BOLOGNA
Zip code: 43100
Telephone: dial +39.0521 before the number you want to call
Parma was a Roman colony on the Via Emilia founded by the consul Marcus Emilius Lepidus in 183 BC. In became a rich comune in the Middle Ages and over the centuries it was ruled by the Viscontis, the Sforzas, the French and the Pope. Finally, it was made into a duchy by Pope Paul III in 1545 and given to his son Pier Luigi Farnese. The Farnese family reigned in Parma for almost two hundred years, where they left traces of their grandeur. The town was inherited by the Bourbons in the early 18th century, who gave its court and social life a typically French flavor. After the Napoleonic rule, which lasted from 1802 to 1814, it was decided at the Congress of Vienna that Parma should go to Napoleon's wife, Marie Louise, daughter of Emperor Francis I of Austria. When she died in 1874, the duchy returned to the Bourbons until 1860 when it became part of the Italian Kingdom by plebiscite.
Parma is no doubt an outstanding and renowned art town. Start your visit from the famous Duomo (Cathedral). The Battistero (Baptistery) and the Palazzo del Vescovado (Bishop's Palace) are in the same superb square, which has maintained its original medieval flavor.
The Duomo
The Duomo is one of the main example of 12th century Romanesque architecture in northern Italy. Its facade features three orders of loggias and is flanked by a tall Gothic tower in brickwork built in 1294. The inside is divided into a central nave and two aisles by beautiful columns that also support the women's gallery. The presbytery stands exactly on the crypt and is above the floor level. The walls in the aisles are decorated with some precious 16th century frescoes. In the dome you'll see a masterly composition made by Correggio between 1526 and 1530. On the right wall of the right branch of the transept there is the well-known "Deposition" by Benedetto Antelami (1178).
The Battistero
The Battistero is a unique octagonal building made between 1196 and 1270. Outside you'll see three portals adorned by the statues and reliefs by Benedetto Antelami. They are some of the best examples of Romanesque sculpture in Italy. Inside you'll see remarkable niches, two orders of small loggias and the ribbed dome containing some important sculptures representing the months, the seasons and the signs of the zodiac. Most of the frescoes in both the lunettes and the dome were made in the late 13th century. Right in the middle of the building is a font dating from the 13th century and also a stoup. Right behind the cathedral apse stands the church of San Giovanni Evangelista.
San Giovanni Evangelista
It is a Renaissance church built in 1512 with a fa硤e and a tower dating back to the 17th century. It contains a valuable cycle of frescoes by Correggio (1520-1523) and Parmigianino. Michelangelo Anselmi (1520-21) decorated the ceiling supervised by Correggio. There is also a splendid choir by Marcantonio Zucchi (1512-13) in the apse and a Transfiguration by Girolamo Mazzola Bedoli (1556). Its is worth seeing the Sacristy, with its wooden cupboards carved at the beginning of the 16th century and the Cloisters of the monastery dating back to the Cinquecento. The three cloisters are really worth a visit too. The first is called Chiostro di San Giovanni Abate, the second Chiostro del Pozzo or del Capitolo, the third Chiostro Grande or di San Benedetto. The Chiostro del Pozzo features a portal and two marble mullioned windows made by Antonio d'Agrate.
Storica Speziera di San Giovanni Evangelista
At the back of the Benedictine Monastery is the old pharmacy founded in 1201 and working till 1766. It was restored and reopened in 1959. Its three big halls are decorated with frescoes of the Cinquecento and contain furniture and shelves dating back to the 16th and 18th centuries, full of 192 15th and 17th century ceramic jars and big mortars.
Camera di San Paolo or del Correggio
This is an important and popular place in town. It served as the private apartment to for the Abbess of the old Benedictine monastery. In 1514 it started to be restored and decorated. Correggio worked on it in 1519 and created a masterpiece of the Cinquecento. The chamber is covered by an umbrella vault divided into sixteen webs on which Correggio painted a pergola decorated with lunettes and tondi containing putti. In the next room you can see frescoes by Alessandro Araldi (1514).
Palazzo della Pilotta
The Palazzo della Pilotta is a large building, with three spacious courtyards, built by Farnese between 1583 and 1622, but left unfinished. It was meant to serve as lodgings for the court servants. Now it is an important cultural center.
It houses the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (National Archaeological Museum), the Galleria Nazionale (National Gallery) and the Libreria Palatina (Palatina Library).
The Galleria Nazionale is one of Italy's most important art museums. It contains works by Correggio, Parmigianino, Beato Angelico, Leonardo, Van Dyck, Tiepolo, Canaletto and many others... The building also contains the wonderful Teatro Farnese, one of the most beautiful playhouses in the world. It was rebuilt according to the original 1617 plan in the 1950s, after it had been destroyed during World War II.
Teatro Regio
The Teatro Regio (Royal Theater) was built by Nicola Bettoli and was opened in 1829. In is one of the most important opera houses in Italy.
Piazza Garibaldi
Piazza Garibaldi (Garibaldi Square), right in the center of Parma, dates back to the 19th century. There you can see a monument to Garibaldi, the Palazzo del Governatore (Governor's Palace) and its tower (1673), and the Palazzo del Comune (Town Hall) (1673).
If you have some time left, then go to Fontanellato, about 18 km from Parma. To get there, take the via Emilia heading west towards Milan, then take the provincial road to Busseto and Cremona just after crossing the river Taro.
The Castle at Fontanellato
The center of the village is basically made of the old Castle perched on the rock called Sanvitale, after the name of the family who lived here for centuries. Square-based, the castle is surrounded by a three-meter deep moat still full of water. The halls inside are furnished with pieces of the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. Although the towers and the square courtyard were originally built for defensive purposes, later they well suited the needs of the court, who embellished the castle. Parmigianino, for example, painted a small hall with mythological scenes in 1525, a masterly work of the Italian Rinascimento.
Parco di Palazzo Ducale
After visiting the town, don't forget to take a walk in the beautiful park of Palazzo Ducale, bought by Ottavio Farnese in the late 16th century and renovated by Ranuccio II in 1690, when a pond and a small island were also added. It was transformed again in the 18th century, when a small temple and some statues were made.
At the entrance to the park stands Palazzo Ducale, built between 1561 and 1564 on a project by Vignola. It was extended in the late 18th century by Petitot. Its halls contain some precious frescoes by Agostino Carracci, Bertoja, Tiarini, Malorosso and Cignani. Presently it houses the carabinieri headquarters (police). Another beautiful park is inside the Cittadella.
La Cittadella
Pier Luigi Farnese decided to have the fortress built in 1546. The works began only in 1591, however. It comes in the shape of a pentagon with five ramparts originally surrounded by water, now replaced by lawn. The inner area is a public park that offers some sports facilities. Don't miss a walk on the bastion.
Altitude: meters above sea level
Nearest airport: MILANO and BOLOGNA
Train connections: easily accessible from MILANO and BOLOGNA
Zip code: 43100
Telephone: dial +39.0521 before the number you want to call
Parma was a Roman colony on the Via Emilia founded by the consul Marcus Emilius Lepidus in 183 BC. In became a rich comune in the Middle Ages and over the centuries it was ruled by the Viscontis, the Sforzas, the French and the Pope. Finally, it was made into a duchy by Pope Paul III in 1545 and given to his son Pier Luigi Farnese. The Farnese family reigned in Parma for almost two hundred years, where they left traces of their grandeur. The town was inherited by the Bourbons in the early 18th century, who gave its court and social life a typically French flavor. After the Napoleonic rule, which lasted from 1802 to 1814, it was decided at the Congress of Vienna that Parma should go to Napoleon's wife, Marie Louise, daughter of Emperor Francis I of Austria. When she died in 1874, the duchy returned to the Bourbons until 1860 when it became part of the Italian Kingdom by plebiscite.
Parma is no doubt an outstanding and renowned art town. Start your visit from the famous Duomo (Cathedral). The Battistero (Baptistery) and the Palazzo del Vescovado (Bishop's Palace) are in the same superb square, which has maintained its original medieval flavor.
The Duomo
The Duomo is one of the main example of 12th century Romanesque architecture in northern Italy. Its facade features three orders of loggias and is flanked by a tall Gothic tower in brickwork built in 1294. The inside is divided into a central nave and two aisles by beautiful columns that also support the women's gallery. The presbytery stands exactly on the crypt and is above the floor level. The walls in the aisles are decorated with some precious 16th century frescoes. In the dome you'll see a masterly composition made by Correggio between 1526 and 1530. On the right wall of the right branch of the transept there is the well-known "Deposition" by Benedetto Antelami (1178).The Battistero
The Battistero is a unique octagonal building made between 1196 and 1270. Outside you'll see three portals adorned by the statues and reliefs by Benedetto Antelami. They are some of the best examples of Romanesque sculpture in Italy. Inside you'll see remarkable niches, two orders of small loggias and the ribbed dome containing some important sculptures representing the months, the seasons and the signs of the zodiac. Most of the frescoes in both the lunettes and the dome were made in the late 13th century. Right in the middle of the building is a font dating from the 13th century and also a stoup. Right behind the cathedral apse stands the church of San Giovanni Evangelista.
San Giovanni Evangelista
It is a Renaissance church built in 1512 with a fa硤e and a tower dating back to the 17th century. It contains a valuable cycle of frescoes by Correggio (1520-1523) and Parmigianino. Michelangelo Anselmi (1520-21) decorated the ceiling supervised by Correggio. There is also a splendid choir by Marcantonio Zucchi (1512-13) in the apse and a Transfiguration by Girolamo Mazzola Bedoli (1556). Its is worth seeing the Sacristy, with its wooden cupboards carved at the beginning of the 16th century and the Cloisters of the monastery dating back to the Cinquecento. The three cloisters are really worth a visit too. The first is called Chiostro di San Giovanni Abate, the second Chiostro del Pozzo or del Capitolo, the third Chiostro Grande or di San Benedetto. The Chiostro del Pozzo features a portal and two marble mullioned windows made by Antonio d'Agrate.Storica Speziera di San Giovanni Evangelista
At the back of the Benedictine Monastery is the old pharmacy founded in 1201 and working till 1766. It was restored and reopened in 1959. Its three big halls are decorated with frescoes of the Cinquecento and contain furniture and shelves dating back to the 16th and 18th centuries, full of 192 15th and 17th century ceramic jars and big mortars.
Camera di San Paolo or del Correggio
This is an important and popular place in town. It served as the private apartment to for the Abbess of the old Benedictine monastery. In 1514 it started to be restored and decorated. Correggio worked on it in 1519 and created a masterpiece of the Cinquecento. The chamber is covered by an umbrella vault divided into sixteen webs on which Correggio painted a pergola decorated with lunettes and tondi containing putti. In the next room you can see frescoes by Alessandro Araldi (1514).
Palazzo della Pilotta
The Palazzo della Pilotta is a large building, with three spacious courtyards, built by Farnese between 1583 and 1622, but left unfinished. It was meant to serve as lodgings for the court servants. Now it is an important cultural center.
It houses the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (National Archaeological Museum), the Galleria Nazionale (National Gallery) and the Libreria Palatina (Palatina Library).
The Galleria Nazionale is one of Italy's most important art museums. It contains works by Correggio, Parmigianino, Beato Angelico, Leonardo, Van Dyck, Tiepolo, Canaletto and many others... The building also contains the wonderful Teatro Farnese, one of the most beautiful playhouses in the world. It was rebuilt according to the original 1617 plan in the 1950s, after it had been destroyed during World War II.
Teatro Regio
The Teatro Regio (Royal Theater) was built by Nicola Bettoli and was opened in 1829. In is one of the most important opera houses in Italy.
Piazza Garibaldi
Piazza Garibaldi (Garibaldi Square), right in the center of Parma, dates back to the 19th century. There you can see a monument to Garibaldi, the Palazzo del Governatore (Governor's Palace) and its tower (1673), and the Palazzo del Comune (Town Hall) (1673).
If you have some time left, then go to Fontanellato, about 18 km from Parma. To get there, take the via Emilia heading west towards Milan, then take the provincial road to Busseto and Cremona just after crossing the river Taro.
The Castle at Fontanellato
The center of the village is basically made of the old Castle perched on the rock called Sanvitale, after the name of the family who lived here for centuries. Square-based, the castle is surrounded by a three-meter deep moat still full of water. The halls inside are furnished with pieces of the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. Although the towers and the square courtyard were originally built for defensive purposes, later they well suited the needs of the court, who embellished the castle. Parmigianino, for example, painted a small hall with mythological scenes in 1525, a masterly work of the Italian Rinascimento.
Parco di Palazzo Ducale
After visiting the town, don't forget to take a walk in the beautiful park of Palazzo Ducale, bought by Ottavio Farnese in the late 16th century and renovated by Ranuccio II in 1690, when a pond and a small island were also added. It was transformed again in the 18th century, when a small temple and some statues were made.
At the entrance to the park stands Palazzo Ducale, built between 1561 and 1564 on a project by Vignola. It was extended in the late 18th century by Petitot. Its halls contain some precious frescoes by Agostino Carracci, Bertoja, Tiarini, Malorosso and Cignani. Presently it houses the carabinieri headquarters (police). Another beautiful park is inside the Cittadella.
La Cittadella
Pier Luigi Farnese decided to have the fortress built in 1546. The works began only in 1591, however. It comes in the shape of a pentagon with five ramparts originally surrounded by water, now replaced by lawn. The inner area is a public park that offers some sports facilities. Don't miss a walk on the bastion.
Real Italy: Finale Ligure
Finale Ligure is a beautiful seaside resort, where many people like to spend their holidays, both in summer and in winter, thanks to its good climate, lovely beaches and great historic heritage.
The town is actually made up of three different smaller towns: Finale Ligure, Finale Pia and Finalborgo. The first two are right on the coast. Here you?ll like strolling about the many narrow streets busy with shops and tourists or lazing in the sun on one of the beautiful beaches. Finalborgo lies further back inland instead and has maintained the typical atmosphere of an ancient walled town.
The area where Finale Ligure is was heavily inhabited in both prehistoric and Roman times. In the Middle Ages all the land belonged to Bonifacio del Vasto and the Del Carrettos, who made it into a mighty marquisate whose capital was Finalborgo. The marquisate was under Genoese control all through the 14th century. The Genoese rulers had the old port silted up in 1341. In 1469 Alfonso I del Carretto got the title of marquis back from Massimiliano. In 1558 a popular uprising made Genoa lay claim to the marquisate again. This was followed by imperial claims till the Spanish Governor had the marquisate occupied in 1571. In 1602 it became Spanish possession. It was bought by the Republic of Genoa in 1713. Many of the architectural traces of the town's history are in the old Finalborgo.
Finalborgo
The old village of Finalborgo is one of the main tourist attractions in the whole area of Finale Ligure. It was walled in the 13th century, then razed to the ground by Genoa and finally rebuilt.
The old Finalborgo is still encircled by crenellated walls and towers near the two main gates: Porta Reale and Porta Testa. Near to the Porta Reale is the Collegiata di San Biagio, originally a gothic church, then reconstructed in the baroque style. In the large nave and two aisles you can admire some valuable works of art of the Cinquecento and Seicento (16th and 17th centuries). The octagonal bell tower was built on one of the town wall tower in the 15th century.
From the Collegiate di San Biagio you can easily walk to Piazza Garibaldi, the heart of the village, where all the bars and shops are, always crowded with tourists. Not far away you'll find the Convent of Santa Caterina. This grand building was founded in 1359 and rebuilt two centuries later when the two Renaissance cloisters were added.
Today it houses the Town Museum of Finale, which contains some interesting archaeological finds of prehistoric, Roman and medieval times. The attached Chiesa della Superga contains the tombs of the Del Carretto family and a cycle of frescoes of the Quattrocento (15th cent.) Wherever you are in Finalborgo, just raise your head and you'll see the Castle, a fortified complex newly restored which guarded the village in the olden days.
Finale Marina and Finale Pia
Originally two separate villages, Finale Marina and Finale Pia are now practically one town. They are the tourist and business area of Finale Ligure. The heart of Finale Marina is Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, which stands out because of its imposing arch dedicated to Margaret of Austria.
The square and all the narrow streets around it are always teeming with tourists attracted by the bars, restaurants, hotels, boutiques and typical tiny shops.
The square looks straight on to the sea and the beautiful promenade lined with tall palm trees. Here you can walk or just relax in the shade after tanning on the nearby beach.
The old church of San Giovanni Battista, or of the Capuchins, was built on the ruins of an older medieval church not far from the sea.
If you walk beyond Finalborgo, you can get to Perti and visit the church of Sant’Eusebio with its 15th-century Romanesque crypt and further away the church of Nostra Signora di Loreto amidst the olive trees.
Of course the sea is the best natural resource Finale has to offer. It is very clean and the sandy or rocky beaches are wide. From Finalborgo you can go on an excursion into the inland. You can follow the river Aquila through a narrow gorge up to Feglino or Orco or you can reach Mount Melogno, the crossroads between Piedmont and Liguria. You'll probably come across one of the many prehistoric caves on your wanderings.
The town is actually made up of three different smaller towns: Finale Ligure, Finale Pia and Finalborgo. The first two are right on the coast. Here you?ll like strolling about the many narrow streets busy with shops and tourists or lazing in the sun on one of the beautiful beaches. Finalborgo lies further back inland instead and has maintained the typical atmosphere of an ancient walled town.
The area where Finale Ligure is was heavily inhabited in both prehistoric and Roman times. In the Middle Ages all the land belonged to Bonifacio del Vasto and the Del Carrettos, who made it into a mighty marquisate whose capital was Finalborgo. The marquisate was under Genoese control all through the 14th century. The Genoese rulers had the old port silted up in 1341. In 1469 Alfonso I del Carretto got the title of marquis back from Massimiliano. In 1558 a popular uprising made Genoa lay claim to the marquisate again. This was followed by imperial claims till the Spanish Governor had the marquisate occupied in 1571. In 1602 it became Spanish possession. It was bought by the Republic of Genoa in 1713. Many of the architectural traces of the town's history are in the old Finalborgo.Finalborgo
The old village of Finalborgo is one of the main tourist attractions in the whole area of Finale Ligure. It was walled in the 13th century, then razed to the ground by Genoa and finally rebuilt.
The old Finalborgo is still encircled by crenellated walls and towers near the two main gates: Porta Reale and Porta Testa. Near to the Porta Reale is the Collegiata di San Biagio, originally a gothic church, then reconstructed in the baroque style. In the large nave and two aisles you can admire some valuable works of art of the Cinquecento and Seicento (16th and 17th centuries). The octagonal bell tower was built on one of the town wall tower in the 15th century.
From the Collegiate di San Biagio you can easily walk to Piazza Garibaldi, the heart of the village, where all the bars and shops are, always crowded with tourists. Not far away you'll find the Convent of Santa Caterina. This grand building was founded in 1359 and rebuilt two centuries later when the two Renaissance cloisters were added.
Today it houses the Town Museum of Finale, which contains some interesting archaeological finds of prehistoric, Roman and medieval times. The attached Chiesa della Superga contains the tombs of the Del Carretto family and a cycle of frescoes of the Quattrocento (15th cent.) Wherever you are in Finalborgo, just raise your head and you'll see the Castle, a fortified complex newly restored which guarded the village in the olden days.
Finale Marina and Finale Pia
Originally two separate villages, Finale Marina and Finale Pia are now practically one town. They are the tourist and business area of Finale Ligure. The heart of Finale Marina is Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, which stands out because of its imposing arch dedicated to Margaret of Austria.
The square and all the narrow streets around it are always teeming with tourists attracted by the bars, restaurants, hotels, boutiques and typical tiny shops.
The square looks straight on to the sea and the beautiful promenade lined with tall palm trees. Here you can walk or just relax in the shade after tanning on the nearby beach.
The old church of San Giovanni Battista, or of the Capuchins, was built on the ruins of an older medieval church not far from the sea.
If you walk beyond Finalborgo, you can get to Perti and visit the church of Sant’Eusebio with its 15th-century Romanesque crypt and further away the church of Nostra Signora di Loreto amidst the olive trees.
Of course the sea is the best natural resource Finale has to offer. It is very clean and the sandy or rocky beaches are wide. From Finalborgo you can go on an excursion into the inland. You can follow the river Aquila through a narrow gorge up to Feglino or Orco or you can reach Mount Melogno, the crossroads between Piedmont and Liguria. You'll probably come across one of the many prehistoric caves on your wanderings.
Real Italy: Bologna
Bologna lies at the southermost end of the Padana Plain. It is an important industrial, agricultural and trade center and a key road and rail intersection. Bologna is a beautiful city, rich in history and culture. For instance, its university is the oldest in the western world. But the past here mingles with the present, thanks to the entrepreneurial spirit of its people.
It is lovely to stroll under the porticoes that wind for about 40 km around the city center! In the norther part of the city there is a new international exhibition center planned by Japanese architect Kenzo Tange.
Altitude: 54 m
Nearest airport: BOLOGNA Borgo Panigale
Train connections: easily accessible from MILANO, FIRENZE, TORINO and ROMA
Zip code: 40100
Telephone: dial +39.51 before the number you want to call
Bologna was an Etruscan town originally called Felsina. In 189 BC it became a Roman colony with the name of Bononia and started to grow in importance until it became an imperial town. It was damaged by fire under Claudius, then rebuilt and enlarged under Nero, with the addition of some new public buildings. After a period of decadence it acquired new glory under bishop Petronio, who then became patron saint of the city. From the 11th century Bologna experienced heavy economic and urban growth. It was part of the Lega Lombarda under Federico Barbarossa. It is believed the university was built here in 1088, the first in Europe. Dante Alighieri, Petrarca and Boccaccio all were students here. In the 13th century Bologna was at its height thanks to its academic prestige. Later it was ruled by the Viscontis and the Bentivoglios. From 1506 till the end of the 18th century it was under papal rule. Between the 16th and 18th century Bologna acquired its present appearance.
During the Napoleonic period the city became the capital of the Repubblica Cispadana and flourished in the cultural, political and economic fields. For the next 45 years, while papal power was being restored, it played a leading role in the Risorgimento, the Italian movement for independence and unification. Finally, in 1859 the city voted to be annexed to Piedmont and be part of united Italy.
Piazza Maggiore
As soon as you get to Piazza Maggiore, the heart of the city, you'll come across the Fontana del Nettuno, one of the symbols of Bologna. This beautiful fountain, dedicated to the sea god, is the work of Giambologna and was built between 1564 and 1566. The brass sirens and putti at the base were made designed by Tommaso Laureti. To the right you'll see Palazzo del Comune (town hall) built in the 13th and 14th centuries and its bell tower (1444) with a magnificent carillon clock. Three important works of art are on the fa硤e of the palace: the Madonna di Piazza by Nicolll'Arca, the statue of Pope Gregory XIII and an eagle attributed to Michelagelo. Inside the building is marvellous and so are its treasures, such as the Museo Morandi.
The square is dominated by the Church of San Petronio. It was built by the Free Comune. The church was meant to be bigger than St Peter in Rome, but the money ran out and the building remained unfinished. The first foundation stone was laid in 1390 as planned by Antonio di Vincenzo. The church was built over several centuries. The semicircular apse was completed only towards the middle of the 17th century. The massive side walls were built with the recycled materials from the nearby demolished buildings. The base of the facade, which contrasts with the unfinished upper part, is characterized by elegant mouldings made of red Veronese marble and Istrian stone.
The middle portal was ordered to Jacopo della Quercia in 1428. When the artist died ten years later it had not yet been completed. The reliefs on it, the Old Testament on the pillars, the New Testament on the architrave and the Madonna della Lunetta, are to be considered as outstanding examples of the sculpture of the Quattrocento. The inside is gothic, with a nave and two aisles divided by 10 brickwork pillars supporting ogival arches. The aisles have 11 chapels each with polychrome window glasses. In the chapels, full of works of art, are the tombs of some of the most famous citizens of Bologna. On the main altar is a monumaental tribune designed by Jacopo Barozzi, known as the Vignola. The sundial on the floor is also worth seeing. The campanile (bell tower) dates back to the 15th century. It stands on the external walls of the last chapel on the right-hand side. To the east of the square, opposite the church, stands Palazzo di Re Enzo (King Enzo's Palace), built between 1244 and 1246. It was here that king Enzo, Frederick II's son, defeated at the battle of Parma in 1248, was kept prisoner from 1249 till his death in 1272.
On the other side of the square you'll see the Pavaglione, a mass of building whose porticoes are a meeting point for the Bolognesi. It is made of two buildings planned by Terribilia: the Palazzo dell'Ospedale della Morte (Palace of the Death Hospital) of the 16th century and the Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio, built between 1562 and 1563. The former is the seat of the Museo Civico Archeologico, which contains Palaeozoic, Etruscan and Roman finds, and of the Museo Civico Medievale e del Risorgimento.
The Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio instead is the seat of the Biblioteca Comunale with its 700,000 books, rare manuscripts and codexes. It is the most important public library in Italy. It was the first seat of the University of Bologna in the 16th century. The walls inside are covered with the polychrome coats of arms of the Italian and foreign students that attended the university. You can't miss the Teatro Anatomico (Anatomy Theater) (1638-49), whose walls are covered with wood panels, statues of famous ancient doctors and figures by Ercole Lelli (1753).
Beyond these splendid buildings you'll find a maze of alleys always full of people looking for the typical products of Bolognese cuisine. You can't miss this area just a few yards away from the marvellous Piazza Maggiore.
The Towers and Strada Maggiore
At a short distance from Piazza Maggiore you'll find the Towers, symbols of Bologna. The Torre degli Asinelli, which belonged to an important local family, was built at the beginning of the 12th century. It is the taller of the two towers being about 98 m. It is open to the public and if you want, you can climb to the top but, be warned, you'll have to climb 498 steps. The Torre della Garisenda dates back to the 11th century. It was lowered around 1360 for fear it would collapse. Not far away you'll see the Piazza della Mercanzia, famous for its outstanfing Loggia dei Mercanti. This is a gothic stone building built by Antonio di Vincenzo between 1384 and 1391. Several old buildings with wooden porticoes look onto the square.
Leaving the towers behind and walking down the porticoes of Strada Maggiore you'll get to Palazzo Davia Bargellini, planned around 1638. Its balcony is supported by two huge stone figures. Inside there is an impressive staircase dating back to the 18th century, the Museo d'Arte Industriale (Industrial Art Museum) and the Galleria Davia Bargellini. Here you'll find 4,500 pieces of local 15th to 18th century local craft, especially Renaissance and Baroque furniture.
Santa Maria dei Servi
Opposite Palazzo Davia Bargellini is the portico of the Church of Santa Maria dei Servi. It was built in the 14th century, with four sides and a central square in front of the church. Thin columns and terracotta decorations distinguish the portico. The church was planned like a basilica and built in 1346. It was later extended in the 15th century. Brick pillars support Gothic vaults. A Madonna by Cimabue is worth seeing.
Santo Stefano
If you walk down Via Santo Stefano, you'll get to the square of the same name lined with porticoes. There are seven churches here all built on the site of an old pagan temple dedicated to the goddess Isis, which make up the Olivetan Benidictine Monastery. The different buildings stand for the sites of Passion of Christ. These buildings were made in the 11th and 13th centuries recycling old materials, partly Roman and Byzantine. Besides the Chiesa del Santissimo Crocefisso, with its 1019 crypt and inscription dedicated to the Roman goddess Isis, there is the Chiesa del Calvario, centrally planned, containing a 13th-century copy of the Holy Sepulchre where the relics of Saint Petronius, patron of Bologna.
The other important buildings are: the Chiesa dei Santi Vitale e Agricola, planned like a basilica, which contains two engraved sarcophagi with the reliquies of two 4th century martyrs from Bologna and the Chiesa della Trinitࠨ13th century). Inside there is also the Cortile di Pilato (13th century) and the Cloister with its loggia on two floors, a typical feature of Romanesque art in Emilia.
San Francesco and San Domenico
Another important religious building is the Basilica di San Francesco, the earliest example of French-Gothic style in Italy. It was built between 1236 and 1254. This building is striking for its vertical rise, the slenderness of its apse and its impressive flying-buttresses. Inside you can admire the splendid marble high altar piece, sculpted between 1388 and 1393 by Jacobello and Pier Paolo Dalle Masegne, besides the Alexander V's terracotta tomb made by Sperandio. Going out of the church, you'll see two campanili: the smaller one dates back to 1260, while the taller one, an example of truly refined art, was built in the early Quattrocento (15th century). Outside, behind the apse, you'll see some pyramid-shaped marble mausoleums dating back to the 13th century.
Piazza San Domenico is cobbled and dominated by two tall columns of the Settecento on top of which are the statues of Saint Dominic and Our Lady of the Rosary. Here also stands the Church of San Domenico, where the Dominican Order was born and where the saint's remains are kept. The church was begun soon after the saint's death in 1221. On one side of its Romanesque fa硤e is the reanissance Cappella Ghisilardi, planned by Baldassarre Peruzzi. Inside the church was restored between 1728 and 1732 by Carlo Francesco Dotti. You'll see some important works by Nicolsano, Nicol Bari, Michelangelo, Guercino, and Guido Reni. The wooden choir is an outstanding example of Renaissance carving. It was made by Frࠄamiano da Bergamo (1528-40).
The convent next door is also worth visiting for its cloisters (14th, 15th and 16th centuries) and library, planned like a basilica, which dates back to 1466. Not too far away is the Oratory of the Holy Spirit built in the 15th century. It is a small building which stand out for its precious fa硤e decorated with terracotta figures and reliefs in shades of warm colors.
The Porticoes
Anyone visiting Bologna, wherever they may come from, will notice that almost every street here is lined with porticoes. Bologna in fact holds the record for having about 40 km of porticoes winding around each are of the city. In the oldest part you'll be able to see Medieval wooden porticoes or marvellous arches from the Cinquecento or Seicento (16th or 17th century). It is lovely to walk around Bologna under the porticoes and look at the windows of old shops or market stalls especially behind Piazza Maggiore.
From Bologna you can easily walk to the Church of Madonna di San Luca on Colle della Guardia (291 mt). Starting from Porta Saragozza you can get to the church following a portico about 3.6 km long, with 666 arches alternating with 15 chapels. This long open gallery, mostly uphill, is the longest in the world. It was built from 1674 to 1739 thanks to private donations in order to shorten up the way form the city to the church.
Every May over the past thousand years the statue of the Virging Mary has been carried down to bless the city and taken back in procession after a week on Ascension Day following the porticoe. The Greek-cross plan Church of Madonna di San Luca was built in 1723-57 by C.F. Dotti. Inside you can see a very old Byzantine icon, traditionally attributed to evangelist Luke. The original church was restored and extended many times over the years.
It is lovely to stroll under the porticoes that wind for about 40 km around the city center! In the norther part of the city there is a new international exhibition center planned by Japanese architect Kenzo Tange.
Altitude: 54 m
Nearest airport: BOLOGNA Borgo Panigale
Train connections: easily accessible from MILANO, FIRENZE, TORINO and ROMA
Zip code: 40100
Telephone: dial +39.51 before the number you want to call
Bologna was an Etruscan town originally called Felsina. In 189 BC it became a Roman colony with the name of Bononia and started to grow in importance until it became an imperial town. It was damaged by fire under Claudius, then rebuilt and enlarged under Nero, with the addition of some new public buildings. After a period of decadence it acquired new glory under bishop Petronio, who then became patron saint of the city. From the 11th century Bologna experienced heavy economic and urban growth. It was part of the Lega Lombarda under Federico Barbarossa. It is believed the university was built here in 1088, the first in Europe. Dante Alighieri, Petrarca and Boccaccio all were students here. In the 13th century Bologna was at its height thanks to its academic prestige. Later it was ruled by the Viscontis and the Bentivoglios. From 1506 till the end of the 18th century it was under papal rule. Between the 16th and 18th century Bologna acquired its present appearance.
During the Napoleonic period the city became the capital of the Repubblica Cispadana and flourished in the cultural, political and economic fields. For the next 45 years, while papal power was being restored, it played a leading role in the Risorgimento, the Italian movement for independence and unification. Finally, in 1859 the city voted to be annexed to Piedmont and be part of united Italy.
Piazza Maggiore
As soon as you get to Piazza Maggiore, the heart of the city, you'll come across the Fontana del Nettuno, one of the symbols of Bologna. This beautiful fountain, dedicated to the sea god, is the work of Giambologna and was built between 1564 and 1566. The brass sirens and putti at the base were made designed by Tommaso Laureti. To the right you'll see Palazzo del Comune (town hall) built in the 13th and 14th centuries and its bell tower (1444) with a magnificent carillon clock. Three important works of art are on the fa硤e of the palace: the Madonna di Piazza by Nicolll'Arca, the statue of Pope Gregory XIII and an eagle attributed to Michelagelo. Inside the building is marvellous and so are its treasures, such as the Museo Morandi.The square is dominated by the Church of San Petronio. It was built by the Free Comune. The church was meant to be bigger than St Peter in Rome, but the money ran out and the building remained unfinished. The first foundation stone was laid in 1390 as planned by Antonio di Vincenzo. The church was built over several centuries. The semicircular apse was completed only towards the middle of the 17th century. The massive side walls were built with the recycled materials from the nearby demolished buildings. The base of the facade, which contrasts with the unfinished upper part, is characterized by elegant mouldings made of red Veronese marble and Istrian stone.
The middle portal was ordered to Jacopo della Quercia in 1428. When the artist died ten years later it had not yet been completed. The reliefs on it, the Old Testament on the pillars, the New Testament on the architrave and the Madonna della Lunetta, are to be considered as outstanding examples of the sculpture of the Quattrocento. The inside is gothic, with a nave and two aisles divided by 10 brickwork pillars supporting ogival arches. The aisles have 11 chapels each with polychrome window glasses. In the chapels, full of works of art, are the tombs of some of the most famous citizens of Bologna. On the main altar is a monumaental tribune designed by Jacopo Barozzi, known as the Vignola. The sundial on the floor is also worth seeing. The campanile (bell tower) dates back to the 15th century. It stands on the external walls of the last chapel on the right-hand side. To the east of the square, opposite the church, stands Palazzo di Re Enzo (King Enzo's Palace), built between 1244 and 1246. It was here that king Enzo, Frederick II's son, defeated at the battle of Parma in 1248, was kept prisoner from 1249 till his death in 1272.
On the other side of the square you'll see the Pavaglione, a mass of building whose porticoes are a meeting point for the Bolognesi. It is made of two buildings planned by Terribilia: the Palazzo dell'Ospedale della Morte (Palace of the Death Hospital) of the 16th century and the Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio, built between 1562 and 1563. The former is the seat of the Museo Civico Archeologico, which contains Palaeozoic, Etruscan and Roman finds, and of the Museo Civico Medievale e del Risorgimento.
The Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio instead is the seat of the Biblioteca Comunale with its 700,000 books, rare manuscripts and codexes. It is the most important public library in Italy. It was the first seat of the University of Bologna in the 16th century. The walls inside are covered with the polychrome coats of arms of the Italian and foreign students that attended the university. You can't miss the Teatro Anatomico (Anatomy Theater) (1638-49), whose walls are covered with wood panels, statues of famous ancient doctors and figures by Ercole Lelli (1753).
Beyond these splendid buildings you'll find a maze of alleys always full of people looking for the typical products of Bolognese cuisine. You can't miss this area just a few yards away from the marvellous Piazza Maggiore.
The Towers and Strada Maggiore
At a short distance from Piazza Maggiore you'll find the Towers, symbols of Bologna. The Torre degli Asinelli, which belonged to an important local family, was built at the beginning of the 12th century. It is the taller of the two towers being about 98 m. It is open to the public and if you want, you can climb to the top but, be warned, you'll have to climb 498 steps. The Torre della Garisenda dates back to the 11th century. It was lowered around 1360 for fear it would collapse. Not far away you'll see the Piazza della Mercanzia, famous for its outstanfing Loggia dei Mercanti. This is a gothic stone building built by Antonio di Vincenzo between 1384 and 1391. Several old buildings with wooden porticoes look onto the square.Leaving the towers behind and walking down the porticoes of Strada Maggiore you'll get to Palazzo Davia Bargellini, planned around 1638. Its balcony is supported by two huge stone figures. Inside there is an impressive staircase dating back to the 18th century, the Museo d'Arte Industriale (Industrial Art Museum) and the Galleria Davia Bargellini. Here you'll find 4,500 pieces of local 15th to 18th century local craft, especially Renaissance and Baroque furniture.
Santa Maria dei Servi
Opposite Palazzo Davia Bargellini is the portico of the Church of Santa Maria dei Servi. It was built in the 14th century, with four sides and a central square in front of the church. Thin columns and terracotta decorations distinguish the portico. The church was planned like a basilica and built in 1346. It was later extended in the 15th century. Brick pillars support Gothic vaults. A Madonna by Cimabue is worth seeing.
Santo Stefano
If you walk down Via Santo Stefano, you'll get to the square of the same name lined with porticoes. There are seven churches here all built on the site of an old pagan temple dedicated to the goddess Isis, which make up the Olivetan Benidictine Monastery. The different buildings stand for the sites of Passion of Christ. These buildings were made in the 11th and 13th centuries recycling old materials, partly Roman and Byzantine. Besides the Chiesa del Santissimo Crocefisso, with its 1019 crypt and inscription dedicated to the Roman goddess Isis, there is the Chiesa del Calvario, centrally planned, containing a 13th-century copy of the Holy Sepulchre where the relics of Saint Petronius, patron of Bologna.
The other important buildings are: the Chiesa dei Santi Vitale e Agricola, planned like a basilica, which contains two engraved sarcophagi with the reliquies of two 4th century martyrs from Bologna and the Chiesa della Trinitࠨ13th century). Inside there is also the Cortile di Pilato (13th century) and the Cloister with its loggia on two floors, a typical feature of Romanesque art in Emilia.
San Francesco and San Domenico
Another important religious building is the Basilica di San Francesco, the earliest example of French-Gothic style in Italy. It was built between 1236 and 1254. This building is striking for its vertical rise, the slenderness of its apse and its impressive flying-buttresses. Inside you can admire the splendid marble high altar piece, sculpted between 1388 and 1393 by Jacobello and Pier Paolo Dalle Masegne, besides the Alexander V's terracotta tomb made by Sperandio. Going out of the church, you'll see two campanili: the smaller one dates back to 1260, while the taller one, an example of truly refined art, was built in the early Quattrocento (15th century). Outside, behind the apse, you'll see some pyramid-shaped marble mausoleums dating back to the 13th century.
Piazza San Domenico is cobbled and dominated by two tall columns of the Settecento on top of which are the statues of Saint Dominic and Our Lady of the Rosary. Here also stands the Church of San Domenico, where the Dominican Order was born and where the saint's remains are kept. The church was begun soon after the saint's death in 1221. On one side of its Romanesque fa硤e is the reanissance Cappella Ghisilardi, planned by Baldassarre Peruzzi. Inside the church was restored between 1728 and 1732 by Carlo Francesco Dotti. You'll see some important works by Nicolsano, Nicol Bari, Michelangelo, Guercino, and Guido Reni. The wooden choir is an outstanding example of Renaissance carving. It was made by Frࠄamiano da Bergamo (1528-40).
The convent next door is also worth visiting for its cloisters (14th, 15th and 16th centuries) and library, planned like a basilica, which dates back to 1466. Not too far away is the Oratory of the Holy Spirit built in the 15th century. It is a small building which stand out for its precious fa硤e decorated with terracotta figures and reliefs in shades of warm colors.
The Porticoes
Anyone visiting Bologna, wherever they may come from, will notice that almost every street here is lined with porticoes. Bologna in fact holds the record for having about 40 km of porticoes winding around each are of the city. In the oldest part you'll be able to see Medieval wooden porticoes or marvellous arches from the Cinquecento or Seicento (16th or 17th century). It is lovely to walk around Bologna under the porticoes and look at the windows of old shops or market stalls especially behind Piazza Maggiore.
From Bologna you can easily walk to the Church of Madonna di San Luca on Colle della Guardia (291 mt). Starting from Porta Saragozza you can get to the church following a portico about 3.6 km long, with 666 arches alternating with 15 chapels. This long open gallery, mostly uphill, is the longest in the world. It was built from 1674 to 1739 thanks to private donations in order to shorten up the way form the city to the church.
Every May over the past thousand years the statue of the Virging Mary has been carried down to bless the city and taken back in procession after a week on Ascension Day following the porticoe. The Greek-cross plan Church of Madonna di San Luca was built in 1723-57 by C.F. Dotti. Inside you can see a very old Byzantine icon, traditionally attributed to evangelist Luke. The original church was restored and extended many times over the years.
Real Italy: Verbania (Intra, Pallanza)
Verbania is the major industrial and commercial centre of the Lake Maggiore, formed in 1939 by the union of Intra and Pallanza. In a beautiful panoramic setting, with its villas, parks and gardens Pallanza is an important holiday resort. Intra is the major commercial port of the lake.
Distance from NOVARA, nearest big city: about 45 km
Altitude: 197 meters above sea level
Nearest airport: MILANO and TORINO
Train connections: easily accessible from MILANO, NOVARA and TORINO
Zip code: 28048 VB
Telephone: dial +39.323 before the number you want to call
Intra and Pallanza
Verbania is a well-known tourist resort on Lake Maggiore. The town became a “commune” in 1939, thus uniting the two towns of Pallanza and Intra. The name Verbania comes from the Latin “Verbanus”, the ancient name of Lake Maggiore. Pallanza dates back to Roman times, while Intra was founded at a later date: the earliest news about it can be dated to the X century. Pallanza belonged to the Counts of Castello, while Intra to the Counts of Biandrate. In the XIII century both towns were under the control of Novara and in the XIV of the Visconti family. All the area around was ruled by the Spaniards from 1535 to 1743, then it was possessed by the Savoia family, with the exception of Intra, which remained in the hands of the Borromeo family.
Pallanza
PALLANZA is such a nice tourist resort that you will be fascinated by its wonderful views, its villas with their gardens and the promenade along the lake shore. The first inhabited centre was located around the Romanesque “BASILICA DI SANTO STEFANO”, which was erected on a pre-existing pagan temple. A votive tablet of the I century A.D. has been found under the bell-tower. The church was repaired in 1601 and underwent radical restoration in 1850 when it was completely decorated with stucco. The most important evidence of its medieval origins are the remains of the ancient Cloister of the Augustians and the nerby “Casa de’ Latti” , which you can see in Via Cietti, where some late Gothic frescoes are still visible.
As it has already been mentioned, wonderful villas can be seen in Pallanza, and one of these, VILLA DUGNANI, built in the XV century and later altered, has been housing the “Museo storico artistico e del paesaggio” since 1914. Under the porch there is the Roman Epigraphic Museum and the Gallery of the Plaster Casts by Paolo Troubetskoy, the famuos sculptor born in Intra (1866-1938) to an American mother and a Russian father. The paintings of the XVI-XVII centuries are shown on the first floor, where you can also see some paintings by Maratta, of the school of Caravaggio, Grechetto, a drawing by Gaudenzio Ferrari and works of the XVIII century, mainly landascapes and portraits. Also some paintings of the XIV century coming from the destroyed Church of San Rocco are exhibited here.
Off the central square of the townhall, built in the XIX century, is the CHURCH OF SAN LEONARDO. The church you see now was rebuilt in 1535 and rearranged in 1801 and 1845. The inside has a Renaissance shape with decorations dating back to the following centuries. The wooden choir is also remarkable. The bell-tower, started in 1520, was finished according to a drawing by Pellegrino Tibaldi.
Not far from the town you can see the Romanesque church dedicated to SAN REMIGIO. It was founded in 1100 and took up in the XVI century. It was a parish church until 1314. Unfortunately, it is in very bad condition. It is made of a nave with an apse and a small aisle on the south side. In the church there are also frescoes of some importance. In particular, there are some XIII century frescoes in the main apse and some XV century frescoes are visible in the minor apse.
At the end of Viale Antonio Azari, just outside PALLANZA, you cannot miss the CHURCH OF “MADONNA DI CAMPAGNA”. Its erection started in the XI century and it was renewed between 1519 and 1527, probably following an idea of Giovanni Beretta from Brissago. Today only the bell-tower and the painting, of the “Madonna delle Grazie” altered in the XV century, belong to the original building. The church has three aisles, divided by stone columns and covered by cross-vaults, and a semicircular apse richly decorated. Also the presbitery and the two aisles are highly decorated in Baroque style. The dome is supported by an octagonal base, featuring an external gallery with balusters and small pillars. The fa硤e is made of stone with a central Renaissance portal (1527), surmounted by a rose-window and two side windows. Inside you can also admire some paintings telling the story of Mary and some frescoes by Gerolamo Lanino dating back to the end of the XVI century. The frescoes of the dome and the presbitery were made by an unknown Lombard painter at the end of the XVI or the beginning of the XVII century.
Intra
Intra is an important industrial, commercial and tourist centre. There is a beautiful promenade with gardens on one side of the street, and hotels, bars and shops on the other side. Here traffic and life are busier than in the peaceful Pallanza, especially on Saturdays, when a very lively market takes place. There is a ferry service from Intra to Laveno.
If you leave the Garden of Villa Taranto and follow the road along the lake you get to INTRA. It is the richest industrial and commercial town of the area. Here there is an ancient tradition of textile industry. During the XVII and XVIII century the industrial development was great and so the old urban shape changed considerably. For example, a lot of rich houses where built in Baroque style, expecially on the streets which go from the lake shore to the parish church. It is worth seeing the De Lorenzo Mansion, in via De Bonis, with its tasteful Baroque decoration. And the Peretti mansion, which stands just outside the town centre. It was built in the XVIII century and it is now in a serious state of disrepair.
The ancient BASILICA OF SAN VITTORE took its grand neo-classical shape after it was rebuilt between 1708 and 1752. It was completely reconstructed and its original orientation was changed. The facade was made in 1830 as planned by Abbot Zanoia. Inside you can see the “Battesimo di Ges?8;, a fresco by Ranzoni, a “Madonna” painted in the XVI century and the “Madonna col Bambino”, a wooden statue of the XV century. All the internal furniture dates back to the XVIII century, and so does the beautiful and well preserved vestry.
Near the parish church, going down towards the lake, there is the CHURCH OF SANTA MARTA. Now in disrepair, it was partially restored in 1593 in the wave of the Counter-Reformation, which Carlo Borromeo supported.
Pallanza
On the coast between INTRA and PALLANZA, you have to see the GARDEN OF VILLA TARANTO, one of the most enchanting gardens in Europe. This botanical garden, of about 16 hectares, was created in 1931 by Captain Neil McEacharn, whose Mausoleum can be visited in the garden itself. He imported flowers and trees from all over the world and planted them here creating a wonderful scenery and beautiful views of the lake. The foreshortenings are perfectly studied and in each season you can admire different kinds of flowers. For example, in April you can see the mimosas and the 80.000 tulips in flower. In May the magnolias, in August the hortensias and 300 different kinds of dahlias besides many others. Every tree or flower has a label showing both its botanic name and its every-day name. There are also fountains with water-plants and greenhouses full of tropical plants. Captain McEacharn donated the villa and its garden to the Italian State. The villa, which is not open to the public, belongs to the Prime Minister and is used for important international meetings.
The garden is open from 1st April till 31st October from 8.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m., so don't hesitate to buy a ticket and spend some time in an atmosphere of complete relaxation in this heavenly garden. You can also buy one of the plants which are grown here, before you leave the place.
Intra
From INTRA you can start many beautiful walks and drives in the mountains (B襬 Premeno, Pian del Sole, Pian Cavallo) from which the panorama, especially over the lake, is really wonderful.
Distance from NOVARA, nearest big city: about 45 km
Altitude: 197 meters above sea level
Nearest airport: MILANO and TORINO
Train connections: easily accessible from MILANO, NOVARA and TORINO
Zip code: 28048 VB
Telephone: dial +39.323 before the number you want to call
Intra and Pallanza
Verbania is a well-known tourist resort on Lake Maggiore. The town became a “commune” in 1939, thus uniting the two towns of Pallanza and Intra. The name Verbania comes from the Latin “Verbanus”, the ancient name of Lake Maggiore. Pallanza dates back to Roman times, while Intra was founded at a later date: the earliest news about it can be dated to the X century. Pallanza belonged to the Counts of Castello, while Intra to the Counts of Biandrate. In the XIII century both towns were under the control of Novara and in the XIV of the Visconti family. All the area around was ruled by the Spaniards from 1535 to 1743, then it was possessed by the Savoia family, with the exception of Intra, which remained in the hands of the Borromeo family.
Pallanza
PALLANZA is such a nice tourist resort that you will be fascinated by its wonderful views, its villas with their gardens and the promenade along the lake shore. The first inhabited centre was located around the Romanesque “BASILICA DI SANTO STEFANO”, which was erected on a pre-existing pagan temple. A votive tablet of the I century A.D. has been found under the bell-tower. The church was repaired in 1601 and underwent radical restoration in 1850 when it was completely decorated with stucco. The most important evidence of its medieval origins are the remains of the ancient Cloister of the Augustians and the nerby “Casa de’ Latti” , which you can see in Via Cietti, where some late Gothic frescoes are still visible.
As it has already been mentioned, wonderful villas can be seen in Pallanza, and one of these, VILLA DUGNANI, built in the XV century and later altered, has been housing the “Museo storico artistico e del paesaggio” since 1914. Under the porch there is the Roman Epigraphic Museum and the Gallery of the Plaster Casts by Paolo Troubetskoy, the famuos sculptor born in Intra (1866-1938) to an American mother and a Russian father. The paintings of the XVI-XVII centuries are shown on the first floor, where you can also see some paintings by Maratta, of the school of Caravaggio, Grechetto, a drawing by Gaudenzio Ferrari and works of the XVIII century, mainly landascapes and portraits. Also some paintings of the XIV century coming from the destroyed Church of San Rocco are exhibited here.
Off the central square of the townhall, built in the XIX century, is the CHURCH OF SAN LEONARDO. The church you see now was rebuilt in 1535 and rearranged in 1801 and 1845. The inside has a Renaissance shape with decorations dating back to the following centuries. The wooden choir is also remarkable. The bell-tower, started in 1520, was finished according to a drawing by Pellegrino Tibaldi.Not far from the town you can see the Romanesque church dedicated to SAN REMIGIO. It was founded in 1100 and took up in the XVI century. It was a parish church until 1314. Unfortunately, it is in very bad condition. It is made of a nave with an apse and a small aisle on the south side. In the church there are also frescoes of some importance. In particular, there are some XIII century frescoes in the main apse and some XV century frescoes are visible in the minor apse.
At the end of Viale Antonio Azari, just outside PALLANZA, you cannot miss the CHURCH OF “MADONNA DI CAMPAGNA”. Its erection started in the XI century and it was renewed between 1519 and 1527, probably following an idea of Giovanni Beretta from Brissago. Today only the bell-tower and the painting, of the “Madonna delle Grazie” altered in the XV century, belong to the original building. The church has three aisles, divided by stone columns and covered by cross-vaults, and a semicircular apse richly decorated. Also the presbitery and the two aisles are highly decorated in Baroque style. The dome is supported by an octagonal base, featuring an external gallery with balusters and small pillars. The fa硤e is made of stone with a central Renaissance portal (1527), surmounted by a rose-window and two side windows. Inside you can also admire some paintings telling the story of Mary and some frescoes by Gerolamo Lanino dating back to the end of the XVI century. The frescoes of the dome and the presbitery were made by an unknown Lombard painter at the end of the XVI or the beginning of the XVII century.
Intra
Intra is an important industrial, commercial and tourist centre. There is a beautiful promenade with gardens on one side of the street, and hotels, bars and shops on the other side. Here traffic and life are busier than in the peaceful Pallanza, especially on Saturdays, when a very lively market takes place. There is a ferry service from Intra to Laveno.
If you leave the Garden of Villa Taranto and follow the road along the lake you get to INTRA. It is the richest industrial and commercial town of the area. Here there is an ancient tradition of textile industry. During the XVII and XVIII century the industrial development was great and so the old urban shape changed considerably. For example, a lot of rich houses where built in Baroque style, expecially on the streets which go from the lake shore to the parish church. It is worth seeing the De Lorenzo Mansion, in via De Bonis, with its tasteful Baroque decoration. And the Peretti mansion, which stands just outside the town centre. It was built in the XVIII century and it is now in a serious state of disrepair.
The ancient BASILICA OF SAN VITTORE took its grand neo-classical shape after it was rebuilt between 1708 and 1752. It was completely reconstructed and its original orientation was changed. The facade was made in 1830 as planned by Abbot Zanoia. Inside you can see the “Battesimo di Ges?8;, a fresco by Ranzoni, a “Madonna” painted in the XVI century and the “Madonna col Bambino”, a wooden statue of the XV century. All the internal furniture dates back to the XVIII century, and so does the beautiful and well preserved vestry.
Near the parish church, going down towards the lake, there is the CHURCH OF SANTA MARTA. Now in disrepair, it was partially restored in 1593 in the wave of the Counter-Reformation, which Carlo Borromeo supported.
Pallanza
On the coast between INTRA and PALLANZA, you have to see the GARDEN OF VILLA TARANTO, one of the most enchanting gardens in Europe. This botanical garden, of about 16 hectares, was created in 1931 by Captain Neil McEacharn, whose Mausoleum can be visited in the garden itself. He imported flowers and trees from all over the world and planted them here creating a wonderful scenery and beautiful views of the lake. The foreshortenings are perfectly studied and in each season you can admire different kinds of flowers. For example, in April you can see the mimosas and the 80.000 tulips in flower. In May the magnolias, in August the hortensias and 300 different kinds of dahlias besides many others. Every tree or flower has a label showing both its botanic name and its every-day name. There are also fountains with water-plants and greenhouses full of tropical plants. Captain McEacharn donated the villa and its garden to the Italian State. The villa, which is not open to the public, belongs to the Prime Minister and is used for important international meetings.
The garden is open from 1st April till 31st October from 8.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m., so don't hesitate to buy a ticket and spend some time in an atmosphere of complete relaxation in this heavenly garden. You can also buy one of the plants which are grown here, before you leave the place.
Intra
From INTRA you can start many beautiful walks and drives in the mountains (B襬 Premeno, Pian del Sole, Pian Cavallo) from which the panorama, especially over the lake, is really wonderful.
Real Italy: San Gimignano
When you'll arrive in San Gimignano and walk through the ancient gates, you'll think the time had stopped many centuries ago. Inside the town-walls everything had preserved its Medieval shape, with the exception of the hotels where you'll find all the modern comforts and the restaurants where you'll taste the best Tuscan cousine with its very good wine.
Distance from SIENA, nearest big city: 36 km
Altitude: 324 meters above sea level
Nearest airport: FIRENZE
Train connections: easily accessible from SIENA and FIRENZE
Zip code: 53033
Telephone: dial +39.577 before the number you want to call
The town of San Giminiano is probably of Etruscan origin. The first legend about the town can be dated back to the Roman period when Silvio and his followers are said to have settled here leaving Roma after Catilina’s conspiracy. Therefore Silvia, the ancient name of the town, probably came from Silvio. The town was later named San Giminiano after St. Giminiano, bishop of Modena, to thank him for helping its people to fight the Barbarians. After the Roman period the town was ruled by the Longobards and according to tradition King Desiderio stayed in the Pesciolini Tower. In 1227 the town had 7000 inhabitants and it was the most important producer of saffron that was exported to Pisa, Lucca, Genova and also to France and the Low Countries. In the first half of the XIII century the most important buildings of the town were erected and the squares, with their fountains, were also planned.
In the XIV century the town developed in trades and enjoyed a period of great splendour in poetry, art and architecture. The plague of 1348 caused the decadence of the town which decided to submit itself to Firenze in 1353. For this reason, San Giminiano lost most of its ancient autonomy even if many artists continued to work there. In the XVI century the town completely lost its prestige and splendour. Here the plague raged again in 1464 and 1631, starting a period of decadence for the town: the town-walls fell to pieces, the Medieval mansions fell into disrepaire and no one had enough money to stop all this, as the richest and most important families had left the town because of the plague. Consequently, the architectural and artistic heritage remained untouched for four centuries.
The layout of the town preserves its medieval plan with the town-walls and the ancient gateways. The older town-walls were destroyed by Firenze and the ones you see today were erected starting from 1262. They are still very well preserved. Nowadays you can enter the town only on foot. We recommend you start your visit at the ancient gate of San Giovanni:
The Gate of San Giovanni was erected in 1262. This gate, surmounted by a guard-room, is characterized by a peculiar segmental arch, an architectural feature typical of the nearby town of Siena.
Through this gate you enter the town and find yourselves in Via San Giovanni, an important street since ancient times. It used to be followed by travellers in the Middle Ages and still today it is full of shops and beautiful mansions very well preserved. Walking down this street you come across the Church of San Francesco on the right side. Unfortunately, only its Romanesque fa硤e still survives. It has a big arch in the centre and two smallest ones on each side, all supported by columns. The influence of the Romanesque style of Pisa is clear.
In Via San Giovanni you can also see many ancient mansions: on the right-hand side is Palazzo Pratellesi, which now houses the Town Library where some XV century books are kept. The building, which was once a nunnery, is characterized by mullioned-windows made of brickwork outside and by precious wooden ceilings and frescoes inside.
Continuing your walk you come across the tall Cugnanesi Tower and the Becci Tower with the homonimous arch, which was one of the gates of the older town walls. Through this arch you enter Piazza della Cisterna.
Piazza della Cisterna (Cistern Square)
This square together with the nearby “Piazza della Cattedrale” is the hub of the town. It has a particular triangular plan that follows the slope of the ground. Its visual centre is the cistern built here in 1237 and enlarged in 1346. On the west side of the square are the Pellari Tower and Mansion and the Twin Ardinghelli Towers. On the other side are the buildings which once belonged to the powerful Cattani family and the Lupi Tower. On the third side are the Cetti Mansion and the Tortoli Mansion with beautiful mullioned-windows and a 'cropped' Tower, i.e. a tower whose top has been pulled down. In ancient times the square was used for open-air markets and popular feasts. Its fish-boned floor made of brickwork is well preserved. From Piazza della Cisterna you can continue your visit in the adjacent Piazza del Duomo.
Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square)
This square contains the most important public buildings and mansions of San Giminiano, which, like those in Piazza della Cisterna, were erected by the richest and most important local families. On the right-hand side of the church is the Town Hall with a tower and a loggia with three arcades. The Town Hall was erected starting from 1288. The loggia was erected ten years later and the tower in 1311. During the XIV century the Town Hall was enlarged and the loggia was decorated. This loggia was never used and in the XVI century it became a porch. It was again converted into a loggia in 1934. A cistern built in 1360 is in the inner courtyard. From here you can go up to the offices and the Museum. On the opposite side of the Collegiate Church is Palazzo del Podest༯font> with the grand Rognosa Tower. On the ground floor of Palazzo del Podest࠴here is a loggia, under which used to be the doors to the town granary. Near this building, at the beginning of Via San Matteo, stands the Chigi Tower, first called Useppi Tower. However, the most interesting and imposing building in this square is the Cathedral.
The Cathedral
This Romanesque building was erected in the XII century and was later altered. This church, first dedicated to San Giminiano, bishop of Modena, was dedicated to St. Mary in 1575, after it had been enlarged. In the church different styles are mixed, such as the Romanesque, the Gothic and the Neoclassical styles. This is not the oldest parish church in town. The oldest one, dedicated to San Nicole was outside the town walls, where the “Ospedale degli Innocenti” was later built. The church was then moved to the present site, where it faces the most important street of the town. The facade you see today was erected in 1239 by Matteo Brunised. It has two doors: women used to enter through the door on the right, while men through the one on the left, called door of San Giovanni.
The large staircase was made with stone from Castelvecchio by Ranieri da Colle in 1299 and remade in the following centuries. The plan has three naves covered by cross-vaults. The inside was remade in the middle of the XV century by Giuliano da Maiano. It is very rich with works of art, like the chapel dedicated to San Fina, which is an interesting example of the Renaissance art in Tuscany. It was made by Giuliano and Benedetto da Maiano in 1468, and wonderfully painted by Domenico Ghirlandaio. In the right nave you can see the paintings by Barna da Siena, representing the New Testament, while those with the Old Testament, painted by Bartolo di Fredi, are in the left nave. Until 1462 the church had a chapel dedicated to a saint for each column.
You can continue your visit of the town by walking down Via San Matteo, the most important street where a lot of Medieval buildings are. On the left-hand side are the twin Salvucci Towers and on the other side is the Pettini Tower. If you walk through the double arch of the Cancelleria, near the homonimous building, you will see the Church of San Bartolo.
Church of San Bartolo
It has a Romanesque brickwork fa硤e, with two orders of arches. It was erected at the end of the XIII century and was originally dedicated to San Matteo. The inside has only one nave without any kind of decoration. If you take the street starting in front of this church, you can go to the Rocca. It was built in the highest part of the town, where the Dominican Convent was, under Florentine rule. The fortification was made of walls 285 metres tall with five big pentagonal towers, in which the guards stayed. The Rocca became a public park in 1978.
Coming back and continuing your walk along Via San Matteo, amongst beautiful and very well preserved Medieval mansions, you’ll get to another town gate, Porta San Matteo, erected in 1262 following the architectural fashion of the nearby Siena. If you don’t walk through the gate but turn right into Via Cellolese instead, you will arrive in Piazza San Agostino, where the homonimous church stands.
Church of San Agostino
It was erected at the end of the XIII century. It has a simple brickwork shape outside and only a big nave with chapels on the same side of the choir inside. The church must have been originally frescoed, but was probably painted after the plague, as this was the custom at that time. The nave is covered by trusses, while the choir and the chapels are covered by vaults. In this church there are some important works of art, such as the altar made by Benedetto da Maiano and some frescoes by Gozzoli. The chapel to the left of the main altar is dedicated to San Bartolo. It is a work by Benedetto da Maiano. Here, under the altar, lie the remains of the saint. The chapel on the right-hand side is dedicated to San Guglielmo. At the beginning of the XIX century the paintings on the two walls of the chapel were brought to light and it was discovered that they had been made by Bartolo di Fredi around 1374. They have great importance in the field of figurative art. On the main altar you can see a great painting by Piero del Pollaiolo, made in 1483, which is considered the best work this great artist ever made. The frescoes of the choir were made by Benozzo Gozzoli with the help of Giusto d’Andrea. They represent 17 stories from the life of Saint Augustine.
In Piazza San Agostino there is also another small church, the Church of San Pietro in Forliano. It is of very ancient origins: it existed already in 1220. It was restored in 1918 when the windows and the rose-window in the fa硤e were opened again and the brick decorations were restored. The inside has one nave covered with a trussed roof. This church is very rarely opened to the public because it belongs to the Diocese of Volterra.
Distance from SIENA, nearest big city: 36 km
Altitude: 324 meters above sea level
Nearest airport: FIRENZE
Train connections: easily accessible from SIENA and FIRENZE
Zip code: 53033
Telephone: dial +39.577 before the number you want to call
The town of San Giminiano is probably of Etruscan origin. The first legend about the town can be dated back to the Roman period when Silvio and his followers are said to have settled here leaving Roma after Catilina’s conspiracy. Therefore Silvia, the ancient name of the town, probably came from Silvio. The town was later named San Giminiano after St. Giminiano, bishop of Modena, to thank him for helping its people to fight the Barbarians. After the Roman period the town was ruled by the Longobards and according to tradition King Desiderio stayed in the Pesciolini Tower. In 1227 the town had 7000 inhabitants and it was the most important producer of saffron that was exported to Pisa, Lucca, Genova and also to France and the Low Countries. In the first half of the XIII century the most important buildings of the town were erected and the squares, with their fountains, were also planned.
In the XIV century the town developed in trades and enjoyed a period of great splendour in poetry, art and architecture. The plague of 1348 caused the decadence of the town which decided to submit itself to Firenze in 1353. For this reason, San Giminiano lost most of its ancient autonomy even if many artists continued to work there. In the XVI century the town completely lost its prestige and splendour. Here the plague raged again in 1464 and 1631, starting a period of decadence for the town: the town-walls fell to pieces, the Medieval mansions fell into disrepaire and no one had enough money to stop all this, as the richest and most important families had left the town because of the plague. Consequently, the architectural and artistic heritage remained untouched for four centuries.
The layout of the town preserves its medieval plan with the town-walls and the ancient gateways. The older town-walls were destroyed by Firenze and the ones you see today were erected starting from 1262. They are still very well preserved. Nowadays you can enter the town only on foot. We recommend you start your visit at the ancient gate of San Giovanni:
The Gate of San Giovanni was erected in 1262. This gate, surmounted by a guard-room, is characterized by a peculiar segmental arch, an architectural feature typical of the nearby town of Siena.
Through this gate you enter the town and find yourselves in Via San Giovanni, an important street since ancient times. It used to be followed by travellers in the Middle Ages and still today it is full of shops and beautiful mansions very well preserved. Walking down this street you come across the Church of San Francesco on the right side. Unfortunately, only its Romanesque fa硤e still survives. It has a big arch in the centre and two smallest ones on each side, all supported by columns. The influence of the Romanesque style of Pisa is clear.
In Via San Giovanni you can also see many ancient mansions: on the right-hand side is Palazzo Pratellesi, which now houses the Town Library where some XV century books are kept. The building, which was once a nunnery, is characterized by mullioned-windows made of brickwork outside and by precious wooden ceilings and frescoes inside.
Continuing your walk you come across the tall Cugnanesi Tower and the Becci Tower with the homonimous arch, which was one of the gates of the older town walls. Through this arch you enter Piazza della Cisterna.
Piazza della Cisterna (Cistern Square)
This square together with the nearby “Piazza della Cattedrale” is the hub of the town. It has a particular triangular plan that follows the slope of the ground. Its visual centre is the cistern built here in 1237 and enlarged in 1346. On the west side of the square are the Pellari Tower and Mansion and the Twin Ardinghelli Towers. On the other side are the buildings which once belonged to the powerful Cattani family and the Lupi Tower. On the third side are the Cetti Mansion and the Tortoli Mansion with beautiful mullioned-windows and a 'cropped' Tower, i.e. a tower whose top has been pulled down. In ancient times the square was used for open-air markets and popular feasts. Its fish-boned floor made of brickwork is well preserved. From Piazza della Cisterna you can continue your visit in the adjacent Piazza del Duomo.Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square)
This square contains the most important public buildings and mansions of San Giminiano, which, like those in Piazza della Cisterna, were erected by the richest and most important local families. On the right-hand side of the church is the Town Hall with a tower and a loggia with three arcades. The Town Hall was erected starting from 1288. The loggia was erected ten years later and the tower in 1311. During the XIV century the Town Hall was enlarged and the loggia was decorated. This loggia was never used and in the XVI century it became a porch. It was again converted into a loggia in 1934. A cistern built in 1360 is in the inner courtyard. From here you can go up to the offices and the Museum. On the opposite side of the Collegiate Church is Palazzo del Podest༯font> with the grand Rognosa Tower. On the ground floor of Palazzo del Podest࠴here is a loggia, under which used to be the doors to the town granary. Near this building, at the beginning of Via San Matteo, stands the Chigi Tower, first called Useppi Tower. However, the most interesting and imposing building in this square is the Cathedral.
The Cathedral
This Romanesque building was erected in the XII century and was later altered. This church, first dedicated to San Giminiano, bishop of Modena, was dedicated to St. Mary in 1575, after it had been enlarged. In the church different styles are mixed, such as the Romanesque, the Gothic and the Neoclassical styles. This is not the oldest parish church in town. The oldest one, dedicated to San Nicole was outside the town walls, where the “Ospedale degli Innocenti” was later built. The church was then moved to the present site, where it faces the most important street of the town. The facade you see today was erected in 1239 by Matteo Brunised. It has two doors: women used to enter through the door on the right, while men through the one on the left, called door of San Giovanni.
The large staircase was made with stone from Castelvecchio by Ranieri da Colle in 1299 and remade in the following centuries. The plan has three naves covered by cross-vaults. The inside was remade in the middle of the XV century by Giuliano da Maiano. It is very rich with works of art, like the chapel dedicated to San Fina, which is an interesting example of the Renaissance art in Tuscany. It was made by Giuliano and Benedetto da Maiano in 1468, and wonderfully painted by Domenico Ghirlandaio. In the right nave you can see the paintings by Barna da Siena, representing the New Testament, while those with the Old Testament, painted by Bartolo di Fredi, are in the left nave. Until 1462 the church had a chapel dedicated to a saint for each column.
You can continue your visit of the town by walking down Via San Matteo, the most important street where a lot of Medieval buildings are. On the left-hand side are the twin Salvucci Towers and on the other side is the Pettini Tower. If you walk through the double arch of the Cancelleria, near the homonimous building, you will see the Church of San Bartolo.
Church of San Bartolo
It has a Romanesque brickwork fa硤e, with two orders of arches. It was erected at the end of the XIII century and was originally dedicated to San Matteo. The inside has only one nave without any kind of decoration. If you take the street starting in front of this church, you can go to the Rocca. It was built in the highest part of the town, where the Dominican Convent was, under Florentine rule. The fortification was made of walls 285 metres tall with five big pentagonal towers, in which the guards stayed. The Rocca became a public park in 1978.
Coming back and continuing your walk along Via San Matteo, amongst beautiful and very well preserved Medieval mansions, you’ll get to another town gate, Porta San Matteo, erected in 1262 following the architectural fashion of the nearby Siena. If you don’t walk through the gate but turn right into Via Cellolese instead, you will arrive in Piazza San Agostino, where the homonimous church stands.
Church of San Agostino
It was erected at the end of the XIII century. It has a simple brickwork shape outside and only a big nave with chapels on the same side of the choir inside. The church must have been originally frescoed, but was probably painted after the plague, as this was the custom at that time. The nave is covered by trusses, while the choir and the chapels are covered by vaults. In this church there are some important works of art, such as the altar made by Benedetto da Maiano and some frescoes by Gozzoli. The chapel to the left of the main altar is dedicated to San Bartolo. It is a work by Benedetto da Maiano. Here, under the altar, lie the remains of the saint. The chapel on the right-hand side is dedicated to San Guglielmo. At the beginning of the XIX century the paintings on the two walls of the chapel were brought to light and it was discovered that they had been made by Bartolo di Fredi around 1374. They have great importance in the field of figurative art. On the main altar you can see a great painting by Piero del Pollaiolo, made in 1483, which is considered the best work this great artist ever made. The frescoes of the choir were made by Benozzo Gozzoli with the help of Giusto d’Andrea. They represent 17 stories from the life of Saint Augustine.
In Piazza San Agostino there is also another small church, the Church of San Pietro in Forliano. It is of very ancient origins: it existed already in 1220. It was restored in 1918 when the windows and the rose-window in the fa硤e were opened again and the brick decorations were restored. The inside has one nave covered with a trussed roof. This church is very rarely opened to the public because it belongs to the Diocese of Volterra.
Real Italy: Rapallo
Rapallo is a beautiful tourist seaside resort. Since the last century it has been considered a fashionable holiday centre where a lot of people like to spend the coldest part of winter thanks to its mild climate. However, it is a busy town all year round.
Distance from GENOVA, nearest big city: 33 km
Altitude: 2 meters above sea level
Nearest airport: GENOVA
Train connections: easily accessible from GENOVA and LIVORNO
Zip code: 16035
Telephone: dial +39.185 before the number you want to call
The town of Rapallo has ancient origins. The first news about it can be dated back to 1240. In that period Rapallo was a Medieval village surrounded by town walls with five gates. It became a Comune in the XII century, but its autonomy lasted for a short period only. In fact in 1229 it began to be ruled by the nearby Genova until 1797 when it became part of Savoy. During the past centuries the pirates sacked Rapallo many times. For this reason, the Castle was built in 1551, after a particularly heavy raid in 1549. Today Rapallo is an important seaside resort and has some small shipyards and maritime engines factories. You must start your visit in Rapallo on the promenade, where, walking among palm and olive-trees, you can enjoy a wonderful view of the whole bay. Facing the town, you see the beautiful coloured buildings housing caffes, hotels and restaurants, while on the other side is the sea, the Castle and the port. The busy tourist port is at the west end of the promenade. The ancient Castle, instead, is at the other end.
The Castle
A few metres from the shore, surrounded by water, is the Castle built in 1551. It was designed by Mastro Antonio Carabo to protect the town from the raids of fierce pirates, who ransacked Rapallo in 1549. Its structure was intended to suit the use of firearms, which were beginning to replace traditional weapons at that time. Originally it had two floors. On the lower floor were the dungeons, while on the upper one was a firing square. It was built entirely in stone with walls that were over two metres thick. Its only external openings were meant for the cannons in all four directions. At the beginning of the XVII century a new floor was added, which served as a new firing square. A tower was also built with ornamental battlements without embrasures. Shortly afterwards a small apartment was built for the 'Captain of Rapallo'. When the Castle was no longer needed for defence it was converted for civil use. It was finally restored in 1964 and today it houses temporary exhibitions. Walking on along the promenade past the wharves, you get to Villa Porticciolo and Casale Park.
Villa Porticciolo and Villa Casale are two beautiful villas amid the nature of Casale Park. From the middle of the XVII century Villa Porticciolo belonged to several well-off families, untill Countess Maria Casale, its last owner, gave both the building and the park to the town of Rapallo. Villa Casale was built by the Spinolas in the XVII century. It has been owned by the town of Rapallo since 1974 and now houses the International Library and the 'Museo del Pizzo e del Tombolo' (the Lace Museum) created to preserve several beautiful examples of local handicrafts. The most interesting pieces come from the private collection of Mario Zennaro, who donated its collection to the town of Rapallo in 1968.
On the way back to the town centre from the park, you can see the long porch of the Oratorio delle Clarisse. It was started in 1633, but it was opened only in 1691. After the nuns left it in 1902, it became the property of the town of Rapallo, which converted it into a theatre where most of the important local events take place. Walking through the arch of the porch of the Oratorio and down a narrow street, you arrive in front of the Church of San Francesco.
Church of San Francesco
It was built in 1519, together with the convent next door. Its parvis is very particular because it is made with white and black cobble-stones following Ligurian tradition. Inside, the church contains a notable wooden Christ by Anton Maria Maragliano, an important XVII century sculptor, whose works are to be found in many churches on the Italian Riviera. Some of them are now also in other European countries and America.
The town-hall is connected to the monumental complex of the Church of Santo Stefano, the Civic Tower and the Oratorio dei Bianchi. Once the building was used to house the Hospital of Sant’Antonio, abandoned in the XV century because of frequent floods. Near the Town Hall is the Oratorio dei Bianchi, which contains an altar made of black marble, besides a painting made in the XVIII century by the Cambiaso school and a precious XVIII century organ. The Civic Tower was erected in 1473. In 1581 it was heightened and the clock was moved to where you see it now.
The Church of Santo Stefano, the first parish church in Rapallo, is the oldest building in town. It was built before the XI century, but the first news about it can be dated back to 1155 when a new parish church, dedicated to St. Gervasio and Protasio, was erected.
The Church of 'Santi Gervasio e Protasio'
This building, standing in Corso Italia, was erected in the XI century and renewed in the following century. Finally, in 1606 it acquired its present structure. The bell-tower was erected in the XVIII century and the facade can be dated back to 1857.
Inside, notable paintings are can be seen: there is a 'Miracle of St. Biagio' by Domenico Fiasella and a 'Deposition' attributed to Luca Cambiaso. Following Corso Italia, you arrive in Piazza Cavour where Via Venezia, Via Mazzini and Via Marsala begin. This is the centre of historical Rapallo. Here was the Medieval village, whose first news can be dated back to 1240. It used to be accessible through five gates, of which only one still survives: Porta delle Saline, giving onto the road to Santa Margherita.
From Rapallo you can take a boat to Santa Margherita, San Fruttuoso, Portofino, Chiavari and Lavagna and experience the unique beauty of the Gulf of Tigullio. Alternatively, you can walk to the Sanctuary of Madonna di Montallegro, founded in 1557. It is 612 metres above sea level. For this reason, the scenery is absolutely marvellous. If you are afraid the walk may be too tiring for you, you can take a cable car. The town of Rapallo is surrounded by the wonderfully blue Mediterranean Sea, the hills behind and Casale Park.
Casale Park is on the east side of the gulf of Rapallo. You can arrive here following the promenade beyond the Castle. The lower part of the park is equipped with some small huts, a pond, a locomotive and also a small wooden fort for smaller children. It is really a lovely place where kids can have a great time. Walking on in the shade of secular trees, you arrive at Villa Casale. From the terrace right on the cliff you will have a breathtaking view of the gulf and the town. It is really a peaceful place where you can relax yourselves.
Distance from GENOVA, nearest big city: 33 km
Altitude: 2 meters above sea level
Nearest airport: GENOVA
Train connections: easily accessible from GENOVA and LIVORNO
Zip code: 16035
Telephone: dial +39.185 before the number you want to call
The town of Rapallo has ancient origins. The first news about it can be dated back to 1240. In that period Rapallo was a Medieval village surrounded by town walls with five gates. It became a Comune in the XII century, but its autonomy lasted for a short period only. In fact in 1229 it began to be ruled by the nearby Genova until 1797 when it became part of Savoy. During the past centuries the pirates sacked Rapallo many times. For this reason, the Castle was built in 1551, after a particularly heavy raid in 1549. Today Rapallo is an important seaside resort and has some small shipyards and maritime engines factories. You must start your visit in Rapallo on the promenade, where, walking among palm and olive-trees, you can enjoy a wonderful view of the whole bay. Facing the town, you see the beautiful coloured buildings housing caffes, hotels and restaurants, while on the other side is the sea, the Castle and the port. The busy tourist port is at the west end of the promenade. The ancient Castle, instead, is at the other end.The Castle
A few metres from the shore, surrounded by water, is the Castle built in 1551. It was designed by Mastro Antonio Carabo to protect the town from the raids of fierce pirates, who ransacked Rapallo in 1549. Its structure was intended to suit the use of firearms, which were beginning to replace traditional weapons at that time. Originally it had two floors. On the lower floor were the dungeons, while on the upper one was a firing square. It was built entirely in stone with walls that were over two metres thick. Its only external openings were meant for the cannons in all four directions. At the beginning of the XVII century a new floor was added, which served as a new firing square. A tower was also built with ornamental battlements without embrasures. Shortly afterwards a small apartment was built for the 'Captain of Rapallo'. When the Castle was no longer needed for defence it was converted for civil use. It was finally restored in 1964 and today it houses temporary exhibitions. Walking on along the promenade past the wharves, you get to Villa Porticciolo and Casale Park.
Villa Porticciolo and Villa Casale are two beautiful villas amid the nature of Casale Park. From the middle of the XVII century Villa Porticciolo belonged to several well-off families, untill Countess Maria Casale, its last owner, gave both the building and the park to the town of Rapallo. Villa Casale was built by the Spinolas in the XVII century. It has been owned by the town of Rapallo since 1974 and now houses the International Library and the 'Museo del Pizzo e del Tombolo' (the Lace Museum) created to preserve several beautiful examples of local handicrafts. The most interesting pieces come from the private collection of Mario Zennaro, who donated its collection to the town of Rapallo in 1968.
On the way back to the town centre from the park, you can see the long porch of the Oratorio delle Clarisse. It was started in 1633, but it was opened only in 1691. After the nuns left it in 1902, it became the property of the town of Rapallo, which converted it into a theatre where most of the important local events take place. Walking through the arch of the porch of the Oratorio and down a narrow street, you arrive in front of the Church of San Francesco.
Church of San Francesco
It was built in 1519, together with the convent next door. Its parvis is very particular because it is made with white and black cobble-stones following Ligurian tradition. Inside, the church contains a notable wooden Christ by Anton Maria Maragliano, an important XVII century sculptor, whose works are to be found in many churches on the Italian Riviera. Some of them are now also in other European countries and America.
The town-hall is connected to the monumental complex of the Church of Santo Stefano, the Civic Tower and the Oratorio dei Bianchi. Once the building was used to house the Hospital of Sant’Antonio, abandoned in the XV century because of frequent floods. Near the Town Hall is the Oratorio dei Bianchi, which contains an altar made of black marble, besides a painting made in the XVIII century by the Cambiaso school and a precious XVIII century organ. The Civic Tower was erected in 1473. In 1581 it was heightened and the clock was moved to where you see it now.
The Church of Santo Stefano, the first parish church in Rapallo, is the oldest building in town. It was built before the XI century, but the first news about it can be dated back to 1155 when a new parish church, dedicated to St. Gervasio and Protasio, was erected.
The Church of 'Santi Gervasio e Protasio'
This building, standing in Corso Italia, was erected in the XI century and renewed in the following century. Finally, in 1606 it acquired its present structure. The bell-tower was erected in the XVIII century and the facade can be dated back to 1857.
Inside, notable paintings are can be seen: there is a 'Miracle of St. Biagio' by Domenico Fiasella and a 'Deposition' attributed to Luca Cambiaso. Following Corso Italia, you arrive in Piazza Cavour where Via Venezia, Via Mazzini and Via Marsala begin. This is the centre of historical Rapallo. Here was the Medieval village, whose first news can be dated back to 1240. It used to be accessible through five gates, of which only one still survives: Porta delle Saline, giving onto the road to Santa Margherita.
From Rapallo you can take a boat to Santa Margherita, San Fruttuoso, Portofino, Chiavari and Lavagna and experience the unique beauty of the Gulf of Tigullio. Alternatively, you can walk to the Sanctuary of Madonna di Montallegro, founded in 1557. It is 612 metres above sea level. For this reason, the scenery is absolutely marvellous. If you are afraid the walk may be too tiring for you, you can take a cable car. The town of Rapallo is surrounded by the wonderfully blue Mediterranean Sea, the hills behind and Casale Park.
Casale Park is on the east side of the gulf of Rapallo. You can arrive here following the promenade beyond the Castle. The lower part of the park is equipped with some small huts, a pond, a locomotive and also a small wooden fort for smaller children. It is really a lovely place where kids can have a great time. Walking on in the shade of secular trees, you arrive at Villa Casale. From the terrace right on the cliff you will have a breathtaking view of the gulf and the town. It is really a peaceful place where you can relax yourselves.
Real Italy: Pisa
The town of Pisa is of Etruscan origin. In 179 B.C. it became a Roman colony and in 89 B.C. a Roman municipium. Pisa was an important naval base for the Romans. In the Middle Ages it was an important citt࠭arinara, i.e. a port, just like Venice, Genoa and Amalfi. Each of these towns had both a merchant fleet and a navy, which controlled all the seas around Italy . Pisa reached its greatest peak of splendour in the XI and XII centuries when it expanded its power over the islands of Corsica, Sicily and Sardinia. In addition, it controlled all the Tuscan coast from Portovenere to Civitavecchia. During the first Crusade (1096-1099) its military and commercial power expanded also eastwards and during the XII century some colonies were founded along the same routes followed by the Crusaders. At this time also some small industries developed in Pisa, especially those involved in the processing of wool and leather. In 1162 Pisa became a free commune with its own statutes, and it was in this period that a new architectural style was born. From the XI to the XIV century the arts, and especially architecture, flourished. Some wonderful buildings were erected, such as the Cathedral, with the contribution of great artists. One of these was Nicola Pisano, the greatest Italian Gothic sculptor, who started a school that influenced all the Italian sculpture of that period. In 1284 Pisa was defeated by Genoa in the Battle of Meloria and so a period of decline began, which terminated with the subjection of the town to Florence. Under the Florentine rule of Lorenzo il Magnifico, the town knew a new period of splendour and the urban landscape underwent important transformations. Wonderful buildings in the Renaissance style were erected and in 1472 the University was founded. In this university Galileo Galilei (1564-1642) taught Physics, thus starting an importan scientific tradition that still continues in Pisa today. At the end of the XIX century the town extended outside the boundary of the old town-walls. Pisa suffered from great damages during World War II. The quarter south of the river Arno was completely destroyed. So most of the urban shape of the town, as we see it today, is due to recent development.
Altitude: 4 metres above the sea level
Nearest airport: PISA
Train connections: easily accessible from FIRENZE, ROMA and LIVORNO
Zip code: 56100
Telephone: dial +39.50 before the number you want to call
Campo dei Miracoli
In the square called "Campo dei miracoli", which is one of the most important examples of Italian Medieval architecture, you will see the Cathedral, the Baptistery, the Cemetery and the famous Leaning Tower.According to the Medieval custom of placing the cemeteries outside the town walls, this square lies in a decentralized position off the roads that lead to Lucca and to the sea. In this area there were once some Roman buildings, besides a later Longobard cemetery. The four beautiful buildings that we see today were erected over a period of three hundred years, from the XI to the XIV century. From 1153 to 1163 the new town walls were also erected, encircling the square for the first time. Since a lot of stone was used for the erection of these building, a shipway had to be dug up to carry the stones from the quarries of Monte Pisano to Pisa. It still survives today.
The Cathedral
The Cathedral was built in the second half of the XI century. It is one of the most important examples of Romanesque art in Pisa. In 1063 the navy of Pisa defeated the Arabian one off the coast of Palermo and one year later, with the rich booty, the construction of the cathedral could be begun. It is first of all a political monument which was meant to demonstrate the power and importance of Pisa. On the facade you can still read the long inscriptions celebrating the town's victorious war exploits.The architect Buscheto was the first who worked on this building, which was consecrated in 1118. During the XII century Rainaldo enlarged the church and also made the fa硤e, which is marked by blind arcades and three wonderful portals in the lower part. Above the two minor portals are some precious rose-windows adorned by mosaics of marble and glazed inlays. In the upper part the fa硤e is characterized by four galleries of small arches, a pattern that is continued by blind arches along the side walls. The articulation of galleries and small arches is the unifying element of all the four buildings in Campo dei Miracoli . Both outside and inside the walls are marked by a face of horizontal bicolored fascias. The plan of the Cathedral is a Latin cross and the apse is east-oriented according to Christian tradition. The well-lighted inside is divided into five aisles by colonnades which continue in the large presbytery. Also the transept is divided into aisles by two colonnades. The capitals follow Corinthian and composite forms. The women's galleries, with their mullioned windows of Byzantine origin, run along the nave and the transept. The octagonal dome rises where the nave intersects the transept. It stands on a tambour surrounded by an open Gothic gallery ouside. The church has a lacunar ceiling made at the end of the XVI century. This church, a work of art itself, is rich of precious decorations and works by important artists. You can admire the beautiful marble pulpit made by Giovanni Pisano (1302-11), which is an important example of Italian Gothic sculpture. The paintings were made by Andrea del Sarto, Sodoma and Beccafuni, who were local artists, while the glass windows belong to the Gozzoli's school.
The Leaning Tower
The famuos Leaning Tower is the bell-tower of the nearby cathedral. Its erection was started by Bonanno Pisano in 1137, but it was soon interrupted because the ground began to sink. It was finished by Tommaso Pisano in 1350, after an intervention of Giovanni di Simone. The tower is made of a larger cylinder surmounted by a smaller one containing the bell. The tower shows a first order of blind arcades and six levels of open galleries. A spiral staircase leads to the open galleries and the terrace around the bell. The Leaning Tower has been closed to the public since 1993 for repair and consolidation works.
The Baptistery
The circular Baptistery was begun by Diotisalvi in 1153 and was continued by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, Cellino di Nese and Mastro Zibellino in the XIII and XIV centuries. The lower order of arcades and columns recovers the identic theme of the nearby Cathedral. The crowning is Gothic with pinnacles and cuspes. The dome has a very peculiar shape. It is made of two distinct volumes: one of conic section, which stands on the women's galleries, and the other of emispherical shape which stands on the external walls. Inside it was ispired by the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem: the conical inner dome stands on a dodecagon, the columns of which are divided into four groups by pillars. In the centre of the radiating pattern of the floor stands the lace-carved octagon of Guido Bigarelli da Como's font of 1246. The pulpit is also noteworthy. It was made by Nicola Pisano in 1260. It represents the transition from Romanesque to Gothic art. Its compact polygonal form, so closely adapted to its surroundings, is comparatively rare. The walls are decorated with scenes from the life of Christ.
The Cemetery
The boundary of the cemetery is marked by a rectangular enclosure made of marble, whose erection was started by Giovanni di Simone in 1278. The legend says that this cemetery was erected exactly where the Crusaders lay the soil they had brought from the Holy Land. Outside you will see some blind arches and two simple portals, the right one of which has a Gothic shape. It used to be the main entrance, but unfortunately it is now always kept closed. The inside is a rectangular area surrounded by a porch, whose arcades were changed from simple Gothic ones into remarkable mullioned windows with four lights between 1283 and 1464. The walls of this porch were decorated with frescoes made by Francesco Traini, an important painter from Pisa, Piero di Puccio from Orvieto and Benozzo Gozzoli, who painted the frescoes of the northern wing from 1468 to 1484. The cemetery also contains several monuments, sculptures and ancient sarcophagi of historical and artistic value, which have been used to bury some important people moved here from the Cathedral. The graves of ordinary people were generally either anonymous or with modest tombstones in the central enclosure. On the 27 July 1944 the American artillery shot the Cemetery roof which entirely burnt down: the girders collapsed and so did the lead covering of the roof. Also a lot of frescoes and sculptures were destroyed or heavily damaged. Most of what has survived is currently being restored. However, it is worth visiting the Museo delle Sinopie where you can see the preparatory drawings for the frescoes, which will help you better understand the work of the medieval artists. Today tourists usually come to Pisa to see the Tower, the Cathedral or the Baptistery. Unfortunately, they know very little about the Cemetery, even though in the past it was the most important meeting place of the town. Local people, but also foreigners used to come here to pray, chat and take a rest.
"Museo dell’opera del Duomo"
The building which houses this museum on one side of the Cathedral Square was the Chapter House from the XIII to the XVII century. Its present structure goes back to that time, when the Diocesan Seminary was transferred there, where it stayed until 1784. It was bought by a private citizen but in 1887 became a Capuchin convent. In 1979 the Cathedral Works acquired it and after much careful renovation opened the museum in 1986.
The works of art on show are all from the monuments in the Cathedral square: there are sculptures dating from the XI, XII and XIII centuries when Pisa was at the height of its power. There are wonderful works by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano e Tino di Camaino and there are statues and busts taken from the outside of the Baptistery. You can also see reliquiaries and several episcopal services. On the upper floor there are works from the 15th to the 18the centuries: paintings by Benozzo Gozzoli, Orazio Riminaldi, Battista Franco and others, and French cloths from the 18th century and 17th century archbishops’ robes. The final section of the museum houses archeological specimens found in the Cemetery.
The San Matteo Museum
The museum is housed in the ex-convent of the Sisters of Saint Matthew, a construction dating back to the 12th and 13th century. The main body of the museum collection is a number of panel paintings with gold backgrounds collected towards the end of the 18th century by the canon Sebastian Zucchetti. They were housed in various places during the 19th century until finally the Town Museum was constituted in 1893. This became the National San Matteo Museum in 1949 when it was moved to its present home. Of particular interest is the fine collection of medieval pottery, some Islamic and some Pisan, and works by the great painters of the 14th century such as Simone Martini, Francesco Traini, Spinello Aretino and many others. Also the collection of sculptures is of notable interest with works by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano and their followers. From the time when Pisa fell under the Florentine domination many of the greatest 15th century Florentine artists came to the city: Masaccio, Gentile da Fabriano, Beato Angelico, Domenico del Ghirlandaio, Benozzo Gozzoli, and they are all represented in this museum. You can also see the gilt bronze bust of St. Lussorio by Donatello and works by Jacopo Rustici and Michelozzo.
Piazza dei Cavalieri - The Knights' Square
The square was designed by Giorgio Vasari, who gave it the characteristic shape of the late Renaissance architecture. It was the ancient center of town. Its name comes from the Knights of St. Stephen who fought against the Saracens. It contains some beautiful buildings. For example, the Palazzo dell'orologio, which was built in the Renaissance period and which includes the remains of a Roman tower. The Palazzo dei Cavalieri was built by Vasari on a pre-existing building in 1562. It was erected to celebrate the order of St. Stephen's Knights.Its curvilinear fa硤e is characterized by a splendid decoration of graffiti and it is preceded by a two-flight staircase. Today the building is the seat of an important university: the Scuola Normale Superiore. On the right side of the Palazzo dei Cavalieri stands the Church of Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri (St. Stephen of the Knights), which was designed by Vasari in 1569. You will certainly be fascinated by its beautiful marble fa硤e built in 1606. The inside is a hall covered by a rich wooden ceiling. On the walls there are flags and trophies which commemorate the glories of the Knights.
The Church of Santa Maria della Spina - St. Mary of the Thorn
The church stands on the bank of the river Arno and takes its name from one of the thorns of Jesus Christ's crown which used to be kept here and is now in the church of Santa Chiara. The church of Santa Maria della Spina, a jewel of Gothic architecture, was built in 1323 on a pre-existing building. The fa硤e is characterized by the three gables and by the arcades which contain the two portals. On the sides the arcade contain mullioned windows with three or four lights. In the upper part you will see pinnacles, spires and tabernacles made by the school of Giovanni Pisano. The inside is well-lighted and is divided into the nave and the presbytery by three arches. As it had been built on a lower ground level, the church was dismantled in 1871 and then rebuilt where it stands today.
The Chartreuse of Calci
It was founded in 1366 and from the end of the XIV century it must have been a sort of permanent building site.In the XVII century the Great Cloister was transformed by the Pisan architect Gian Battista Cartoni and the friar Feliciano Bianchi from Siena. The work was carried out between 1636 and 1651 while the entry vestibule was constructed in 1672.During the following century many artists and craftsmen came here to fresco the church walls, workmen from Carrara carved the marble and renovated the church facade, in 1718 Angelo Maria Somazzi came from Livorno to stucco the church, the chapels and the guest quarters.Also the state appartments, the main staircase, the communal rooms and the boundary were reconstructed and decorated. These works carried out in the XVIII century drew together and unified the internal spaces built in stages from the XIV to the XVIII centuries, integrating them in a dialectical relationship of art and nature, with the space outside.The rich decoration of this buiding involving every detail in its construction, makes the Pisa Chaterhouse one organic and homogeneous unity.Nowadays in the Charterhouse you can visit The historical and artistic Museum which tells of the life of the monks. Although part of the furnishing and utensils were lost following the suppression of the monastries under Napoleon in 1808, those closely connected with the places of worship and entertainment survived.The best of the paintings are to be seen above the altars; one exaple is “St. Bruno offering the Charterhouse to the Madonna” painted for the altar of the main church in 1681 by Baldassarre Franceschini, called “il Volterrano”. Many other works of artistic value were realized and still visible in this Museum of history and art that has been open to the public since 1973, when the monks handed the monastery back to the State, whose property it had been since 1808, when under Napoleon all ecclesiastical property was turned over to the State.The Pisa University Museum of Natural History and History of the District originated in the gallery founded in 1591 by Ferdinand I de’ Medici and annexed to the Botanical Gardens in Pisa. The museum was divided into indipendent sections and the collections were enlarged in continuation by the addition of new exhibits and with increasing amounts of material for Natural History research at the University of Pisa. When the Museum of Natural History and History of the District was founded in 1981, it reunited the old Museums of Zoology and Comparative Anatomy, Mineralogy and Petrography, Geology and Paleontology under one roof, in the portion of the Pisa Charterhouse assigned by the State Properties to the University of Pisa.
The Pisa Botanic Garden
(Click on the image to enlarge) The Pisa Botanic Garden was founded in 1543 by Luca Ghini, a worthy physician and botanist from Croara, near Bologna, after accepting the Chair of Botany at Pisa University from the Grand Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici.The garden had to be transferred in 1591 to its present site between Via Santa Maria and Via Roma, near the Cathedral square. It is the most ancient University Botanic Garden in Europe and today it’s of central importance in all sectors of research and teaching in plant biology and in the conservation of endangered species.Here you can see many plants of great historic and scientific value: a magnificent examplebald cypressThere is also one of the earliest example of iron-framed hothouse built in Italy, to house plants from hot climates.
The Natural Park of Migliarino, San Rossore, Massaciuccoli
This park stretches along the Tirrenian coastline and covers approximately 23,000 hectares. It includes San Rossore estate, Tombolo estate and coltano and Castagnolo farmlands, Migliarino estate and Vecchiano farmland, Borbone estate and Lucca bush land , and Massaciuccoli lake and marshland.At first sight, the park is an immense woodland of stone-pines (Pinus Pinea) which are tipical of the Tuscan coastline. Inside the park there is a great variety of natural settings ranging from dunes to sandy shores and from hygrophilous forests to marshlands.Water, which is the prevailing element in the park, is the real key of comprehension of the area: bogs, ponds, ditches, swamps, channels interlace the woods of decidous and Mediterranean trees, creating a magnificent variety of habitats which attract a lot of different species of animals.Wild birds are plentiful: Lake Massacciuccoli hosts over 200 species of permanent, migratory and nesting birds, such as herons, egrets, wild ducks, moor-buzzards and stilt-plovers.
The fauna resident in the park includes great quantities of fallow deer and wild boars as well as other mammals such the fox , hedgehog , dormouse, badger and squirrel.The flora is particularly interesting and includes many rare botanical species like the sun-dew (a small carnivourus plant), the periploca (an extremely rare liana), the marsh orchird, the pink hibiscus and the Royal or Florinda Fern.The best way to visit the park is to tatke advantage of the guided tours which may be chosen from walks, bicycle rides, horse treks, excursions in horse-driven carriages and in buses. The organized visits include nature trails, tour combining education and leisure and excursion aimed at the survey of historical and architectural emergencies occurring on the estate.You can get here from Pisa taking the SS1 Aurelia road (north of the Arno river).
The coast-line
North and South of the mouth of the Arno (only 9 kilometres from Pisa), the coast-line stretches for miles and miles with wonderful beaches, extraordinarily pleasant for bathing. These magnificent sandy beaches are backed by lovely woods which give the sea-breezes their scent of pine and juniper.The Presidential Estate of San Rossore and Marina di Vecchiano cost occupy the right side, and on the left there are Marina di Pisa, with its nineteenth century appearance, and Tirrenia, two attractive sea-side resorts.
Altitude: 4 metres above the sea level
Nearest airport: PISA
Train connections: easily accessible from FIRENZE, ROMA and LIVORNO
Zip code: 56100
Telephone: dial +39.50 before the number you want to call
Campo dei Miracoli
In the square called "Campo dei miracoli", which is one of the most important examples of Italian Medieval architecture, you will see the Cathedral, the Baptistery, the Cemetery and the famous Leaning Tower.According to the Medieval custom of placing the cemeteries outside the town walls, this square lies in a decentralized position off the roads that lead to Lucca and to the sea. In this area there were once some Roman buildings, besides a later Longobard cemetery. The four beautiful buildings that we see today were erected over a period of three hundred years, from the XI to the XIV century. From 1153 to 1163 the new town walls were also erected, encircling the square for the first time. Since a lot of stone was used for the erection of these building, a shipway had to be dug up to carry the stones from the quarries of Monte Pisano to Pisa. It still survives today.The Cathedral
The Cathedral was built in the second half of the XI century. It is one of the most important examples of Romanesque art in Pisa. In 1063 the navy of Pisa defeated the Arabian one off the coast of Palermo and one year later, with the rich booty, the construction of the cathedral could be begun. It is first of all a political monument which was meant to demonstrate the power and importance of Pisa. On the facade you can still read the long inscriptions celebrating the town's victorious war exploits.The architect Buscheto was the first who worked on this building, which was consecrated in 1118. During the XII century Rainaldo enlarged the church and also made the fa硤e, which is marked by blind arcades and three wonderful portals in the lower part. Above the two minor portals are some precious rose-windows adorned by mosaics of marble and glazed inlays. In the upper part the fa硤e is characterized by four galleries of small arches, a pattern that is continued by blind arches along the side walls. The articulation of galleries and small arches is the unifying element of all the four buildings in Campo dei Miracoli . Both outside and inside the walls are marked by a face of horizontal bicolored fascias. The plan of the Cathedral is a Latin cross and the apse is east-oriented according to Christian tradition. The well-lighted inside is divided into five aisles by colonnades which continue in the large presbytery. Also the transept is divided into aisles by two colonnades. The capitals follow Corinthian and composite forms. The women's galleries, with their mullioned windows of Byzantine origin, run along the nave and the transept. The octagonal dome rises where the nave intersects the transept. It stands on a tambour surrounded by an open Gothic gallery ouside. The church has a lacunar ceiling made at the end of the XVI century. This church, a work of art itself, is rich of precious decorations and works by important artists. You can admire the beautiful marble pulpit made by Giovanni Pisano (1302-11), which is an important example of Italian Gothic sculpture. The paintings were made by Andrea del Sarto, Sodoma and Beccafuni, who were local artists, while the glass windows belong to the Gozzoli's school.
The Leaning Tower
The famuos Leaning Tower is the bell-tower of the nearby cathedral. Its erection was started by Bonanno Pisano in 1137, but it was soon interrupted because the ground began to sink. It was finished by Tommaso Pisano in 1350, after an intervention of Giovanni di Simone. The tower is made of a larger cylinder surmounted by a smaller one containing the bell. The tower shows a first order of blind arcades and six levels of open galleries. A spiral staircase leads to the open galleries and the terrace around the bell. The Leaning Tower has been closed to the public since 1993 for repair and consolidation works.
The Baptistery
The circular Baptistery was begun by Diotisalvi in 1153 and was continued by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, Cellino di Nese and Mastro Zibellino in the XIII and XIV centuries. The lower order of arcades and columns recovers the identic theme of the nearby Cathedral. The crowning is Gothic with pinnacles and cuspes. The dome has a very peculiar shape. It is made of two distinct volumes: one of conic section, which stands on the women's galleries, and the other of emispherical shape which stands on the external walls. Inside it was ispired by the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem: the conical inner dome stands on a dodecagon, the columns of which are divided into four groups by pillars. In the centre of the radiating pattern of the floor stands the lace-carved octagon of Guido Bigarelli da Como's font of 1246. The pulpit is also noteworthy. It was made by Nicola Pisano in 1260. It represents the transition from Romanesque to Gothic art. Its compact polygonal form, so closely adapted to its surroundings, is comparatively rare. The walls are decorated with scenes from the life of Christ.
The Cemetery
The boundary of the cemetery is marked by a rectangular enclosure made of marble, whose erection was started by Giovanni di Simone in 1278. The legend says that this cemetery was erected exactly where the Crusaders lay the soil they had brought from the Holy Land. Outside you will see some blind arches and two simple portals, the right one of which has a Gothic shape. It used to be the main entrance, but unfortunately it is now always kept closed. The inside is a rectangular area surrounded by a porch, whose arcades were changed from simple Gothic ones into remarkable mullioned windows with four lights between 1283 and 1464. The walls of this porch were decorated with frescoes made by Francesco Traini, an important painter from Pisa, Piero di Puccio from Orvieto and Benozzo Gozzoli, who painted the frescoes of the northern wing from 1468 to 1484. The cemetery also contains several monuments, sculptures and ancient sarcophagi of historical and artistic value, which have been used to bury some important people moved here from the Cathedral. The graves of ordinary people were generally either anonymous or with modest tombstones in the central enclosure. On the 27 July 1944 the American artillery shot the Cemetery roof which entirely burnt down: the girders collapsed and so did the lead covering of the roof. Also a lot of frescoes and sculptures were destroyed or heavily damaged. Most of what has survived is currently being restored. However, it is worth visiting the Museo delle Sinopie where you can see the preparatory drawings for the frescoes, which will help you better understand the work of the medieval artists. Today tourists usually come to Pisa to see the Tower, the Cathedral or the Baptistery. Unfortunately, they know very little about the Cemetery, even though in the past it was the most important meeting place of the town. Local people, but also foreigners used to come here to pray, chat and take a rest.
"Museo dell’opera del Duomo"
The building which houses this museum on one side of the Cathedral Square was the Chapter House from the XIII to the XVII century. Its present structure goes back to that time, when the Diocesan Seminary was transferred there, where it stayed until 1784. It was bought by a private citizen but in 1887 became a Capuchin convent. In 1979 the Cathedral Works acquired it and after much careful renovation opened the museum in 1986.
The works of art on show are all from the monuments in the Cathedral square: there are sculptures dating from the XI, XII and XIII centuries when Pisa was at the height of its power. There are wonderful works by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano e Tino di Camaino and there are statues and busts taken from the outside of the Baptistery. You can also see reliquiaries and several episcopal services. On the upper floor there are works from the 15th to the 18the centuries: paintings by Benozzo Gozzoli, Orazio Riminaldi, Battista Franco and others, and French cloths from the 18th century and 17th century archbishops’ robes. The final section of the museum houses archeological specimens found in the Cemetery.
The San Matteo Museum
The museum is housed in the ex-convent of the Sisters of Saint Matthew, a construction dating back to the 12th and 13th century. The main body of the museum collection is a number of panel paintings with gold backgrounds collected towards the end of the 18th century by the canon Sebastian Zucchetti. They were housed in various places during the 19th century until finally the Town Museum was constituted in 1893. This became the National San Matteo Museum in 1949 when it was moved to its present home. Of particular interest is the fine collection of medieval pottery, some Islamic and some Pisan, and works by the great painters of the 14th century such as Simone Martini, Francesco Traini, Spinello Aretino and many others. Also the collection of sculptures is of notable interest with works by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano and their followers. From the time when Pisa fell under the Florentine domination many of the greatest 15th century Florentine artists came to the city: Masaccio, Gentile da Fabriano, Beato Angelico, Domenico del Ghirlandaio, Benozzo Gozzoli, and they are all represented in this museum. You can also see the gilt bronze bust of St. Lussorio by Donatello and works by Jacopo Rustici and Michelozzo.
Piazza dei Cavalieri - The Knights' Square
The square was designed by Giorgio Vasari, who gave it the characteristic shape of the late Renaissance architecture. It was the ancient center of town. Its name comes from the Knights of St. Stephen who fought against the Saracens. It contains some beautiful buildings. For example, the Palazzo dell'orologio, which was built in the Renaissance period and which includes the remains of a Roman tower. The Palazzo dei Cavalieri was built by Vasari on a pre-existing building in 1562. It was erected to celebrate the order of St. Stephen's Knights.Its curvilinear fa硤e is characterized by a splendid decoration of graffiti and it is preceded by a two-flight staircase. Today the building is the seat of an important university: the Scuola Normale Superiore. On the right side of the Palazzo dei Cavalieri stands the Church of Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri (St. Stephen of the Knights), which was designed by Vasari in 1569. You will certainly be fascinated by its beautiful marble fa硤e built in 1606. The inside is a hall covered by a rich wooden ceiling. On the walls there are flags and trophies which commemorate the glories of the Knights.
The Church of Santa Maria della Spina - St. Mary of the Thorn
The church stands on the bank of the river Arno and takes its name from one of the thorns of Jesus Christ's crown which used to be kept here and is now in the church of Santa Chiara. The church of Santa Maria della Spina, a jewel of Gothic architecture, was built in 1323 on a pre-existing building. The fa硤e is characterized by the three gables and by the arcades which contain the two portals. On the sides the arcade contain mullioned windows with three or four lights. In the upper part you will see pinnacles, spires and tabernacles made by the school of Giovanni Pisano. The inside is well-lighted and is divided into the nave and the presbytery by three arches. As it had been built on a lower ground level, the church was dismantled in 1871 and then rebuilt where it stands today.
The Chartreuse of Calci
It was founded in 1366 and from the end of the XIV century it must have been a sort of permanent building site.In the XVII century the Great Cloister was transformed by the Pisan architect Gian Battista Cartoni and the friar Feliciano Bianchi from Siena. The work was carried out between 1636 and 1651 while the entry vestibule was constructed in 1672.During the following century many artists and craftsmen came here to fresco the church walls, workmen from Carrara carved the marble and renovated the church facade, in 1718 Angelo Maria Somazzi came from Livorno to stucco the church, the chapels and the guest quarters.Also the state appartments, the main staircase, the communal rooms and the boundary were reconstructed and decorated. These works carried out in the XVIII century drew together and unified the internal spaces built in stages from the XIV to the XVIII centuries, integrating them in a dialectical relationship of art and nature, with the space outside.The rich decoration of this buiding involving every detail in its construction, makes the Pisa Chaterhouse one organic and homogeneous unity.Nowadays in the Charterhouse you can visit The historical and artistic Museum which tells of the life of the monks. Although part of the furnishing and utensils were lost following the suppression of the monastries under Napoleon in 1808, those closely connected with the places of worship and entertainment survived.The best of the paintings are to be seen above the altars; one exaple is “St. Bruno offering the Charterhouse to the Madonna” painted for the altar of the main church in 1681 by Baldassarre Franceschini, called “il Volterrano”. Many other works of artistic value were realized and still visible in this Museum of history and art that has been open to the public since 1973, when the monks handed the monastery back to the State, whose property it had been since 1808, when under Napoleon all ecclesiastical property was turned over to the State.The Pisa University Museum of Natural History and History of the District originated in the gallery founded in 1591 by Ferdinand I de’ Medici and annexed to the Botanical Gardens in Pisa. The museum was divided into indipendent sections and the collections were enlarged in continuation by the addition of new exhibits and with increasing amounts of material for Natural History research at the University of Pisa. When the Museum of Natural History and History of the District was founded in 1981, it reunited the old Museums of Zoology and Comparative Anatomy, Mineralogy and Petrography, Geology and Paleontology under one roof, in the portion of the Pisa Charterhouse assigned by the State Properties to the University of Pisa.
The Pisa Botanic Garden
(Click on the image to enlarge) The Pisa Botanic Garden was founded in 1543 by Luca Ghini, a worthy physician and botanist from Croara, near Bologna, after accepting the Chair of Botany at Pisa University from the Grand Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici.The garden had to be transferred in 1591 to its present site between Via Santa Maria and Via Roma, near the Cathedral square. It is the most ancient University Botanic Garden in Europe and today it’s of central importance in all sectors of research and teaching in plant biology and in the conservation of endangered species.Here you can see many plants of great historic and scientific value: a magnificent examplebald cypressThere is also one of the earliest example of iron-framed hothouse built in Italy, to house plants from hot climates.
The Natural Park of Migliarino, San Rossore, Massaciuccoli
This park stretches along the Tirrenian coastline and covers approximately 23,000 hectares. It includes San Rossore estate, Tombolo estate and coltano and Castagnolo farmlands, Migliarino estate and Vecchiano farmland, Borbone estate and Lucca bush land , and Massaciuccoli lake and marshland.At first sight, the park is an immense woodland of stone-pines (Pinus Pinea) which are tipical of the Tuscan coastline. Inside the park there is a great variety of natural settings ranging from dunes to sandy shores and from hygrophilous forests to marshlands.Water, which is the prevailing element in the park, is the real key of comprehension of the area: bogs, ponds, ditches, swamps, channels interlace the woods of decidous and Mediterranean trees, creating a magnificent variety of habitats which attract a lot of different species of animals.Wild birds are plentiful: Lake Massacciuccoli hosts over 200 species of permanent, migratory and nesting birds, such as herons, egrets, wild ducks, moor-buzzards and stilt-plovers.
The fauna resident in the park includes great quantities of fallow deer and wild boars as well as other mammals such the fox , hedgehog , dormouse, badger and squirrel.The flora is particularly interesting and includes many rare botanical species like the sun-dew (a small carnivourus plant), the periploca (an extremely rare liana), the marsh orchird, the pink hibiscus and the Royal or Florinda Fern.The best way to visit the park is to tatke advantage of the guided tours which may be chosen from walks, bicycle rides, horse treks, excursions in horse-driven carriages and in buses. The organized visits include nature trails, tour combining education and leisure and excursion aimed at the survey of historical and architectural emergencies occurring on the estate.You can get here from Pisa taking the SS1 Aurelia road (north of the Arno river).
The coast-line
North and South of the mouth of the Arno (only 9 kilometres from Pisa), the coast-line stretches for miles and miles with wonderful beaches, extraordinarily pleasant for bathing. These magnificent sandy beaches are backed by lovely woods which give the sea-breezes their scent of pine and juniper.The Presidential Estate of San Rossore and Marina di Vecchiano cost occupy the right side, and on the left there are Marina di Pisa, with its nineteenth century appearance, and Tirrenia, two attractive sea-side resorts.
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