European Travelogue

Italian Adventure: Milan (Part 6)

2008-06-22T13:00:00.000-07:00

Part 6: Milan

James: On Monday, 11/19 we took a six hour train ride back to Milan. The train was full, and a little late, but otherwise no problem. A long day though. We got a simple one star hotel room for $40 near the train station. We ate at Brek's and checked some e-mail, then went to bed. Milan turned out to be the city we had been dreading in Rome. It was characterless, congested, smoggy, and difficult to see on foot. In the 4th century, it was the capitol of the eastern Roman Empire, but nearly all traces of Roman buildings or life are gone, giving it a modern, industrial, and ugly feel. The next day we walked around town (it was sunny, but cold), and saw the huge gothic Duomo, the Galleria, and an excellent archeology museum (with great Greek painted ceramics), but is wasn't especially enjoyable. The food and gelato was good though. Milan wasn't that bad; it's just that after Rome, it was somewhat of a let down.

Everywhere we went in Milan (and much of Italy), people had pet dogs with them. They were mostly small and cute, but we also saw many German Shepards. They walk them on the city streets, and take them into cafes and bars, or leave them (often without a leash) outside a store or restaurant. We even saw one dog playing catch on the old cobbled streets with a ball. In Milan, they had a large park where many people were walking or playing with there dogs. They always made us smile.

The other thing we saw everywhere, even more than dogs, were couples kissing and making out in public. It would be hard to throw a rock in Italy and not hit some young (or older) couple in a passionate embrace. Many of them appeared to be attached at the mouth, or groping. And the Italian women are very sexy and dress so fashionably! WOW! What is it about Italy?

On Wednesday, 11/21, we took a shuttle bus to the airport for the final trip home. We were missing our home and Kitty by now, and were looking forward to returning. We got a kick out of watching the dogs at work at the airport. I wonder why bomb-sniffing dogs are so happy and friendly? We saw the dog at the airport standing on his hind legs drinking water from a large tub in a utility room. After 20 days together night and day, we were starting to get on each other's nerves. She even managed to lock herself in the bathroom in the airport and had to call for help (I could hear her in the men's room - "Yep, that's my wife"). I was trying to decide whether to get the jaws-of-life or send in the bomb-dog, when someone let her out. Why do these things only happen to Rachel?

Rachel: I should have been suspicious when the bathroom stall I entered had a large hole kicked into the bottom. Obviously, others had had trouble getting out.

After an 8 hr 45 min flight from Milan, we finally touched down in Newark. When we deplaned, the first Americans to greet us were these big beautiful black women in bright red jackets directing people to various customs and immigrations lines. I was so happy to see their beautiful faces, I could have just hugged them all! After being up nearly 24 hours straight, we were finally home!

Italian Adventure: Rome (Part 5)

2008-06-22T12:58:00.001-07:00

Part 5: Rome

Rachel: While talking with other travelers, we kept hearing that Rome is a good place to go - some people even said it was their favorite place. We weren't even going to go, as we had heard so much about crowds, congestion, pollution, tourist-traps and pick-pockets, but we had a hunch that we may just like it (we also wanted a change from the small-town scene), so on Thursday 11/15, we took the train to Rome - and we were glad we did. In Arezzo, we were only a 1 hr 40 min train ride away from Rome and it would have been a shame not to go there. We ended up liking Rome immediately, and liked it more the longer we stayed. We found the traffic and tourism to be worse in Florence. Rome was a great city for wandering, maybe one of the best in the world. And it was warm, and after some scattered showers the first day, sunny with not a cloud in the sky. Who cares about visiting museums when the entire city of Rome is a sight unto itself? It's true, it's true, we loved Rome! What a pleasant surprise!

James: On the train to Rome we sat with a friendly lady from Poland who was living in Arezzo and was going to see the Pope on a day trip. She invited us to not only stay with her in Arezzo if we returned, but also with her parents back in Poland (we have their addresses just in case). In Rome we stayed in a perfect little hostel called "Casa Olmata" near the Colosseum. The hostel is seven long flights of stairs up to a roof top terrace with free Internet, communal dinners, and an unbeatable view of the city, especially at night. We ended up getting our own room on the 2nd floor for about $35 a night. The couple running the hostel were great. If you think it couldn't get any better, it also includes free breakfast (coupons for a hot drink of your choice and a croissant at a local cafe), free movies every night, and they cook and serve free full course dinners with wine twice a week Rick Steves discovered this place when it first opened, and includes it in his guidebook, so that most people staying there have Rick's book. Mirela, the owner, says that Rick is very handsome and funny (Che pasa, Signor Steves?) He stays there once a year he likes it so much.

Rachel: We walked all over Rome during the four days we were there, seeing the Colosseum, Palatine hill, the Roman Forum (superb ruins!), the Trevi fountain, the Pantheon, the Spanish Steps, Trastevere, the Capitoline Hill, St. Peter's Basilica, and many other old buildings and churches that you can't help but stumble upon as you wander around. Another great thing about Rome is the street cats. They live around town, especially in the ancient ruins. In the city center, there is a thriving colony of street cats that live in a large area of ruins that is closed to humans. It was a sight in itself, as you could view the whole area from the modern street level (about 20 feet above the ancient street level) from a piazza surrounding the ruins. All the sights we saw were free (we didn't do any museums). We ate each day at "Brek's," a self-service restaurant with very tasty food (you get tired of pizza stands after a while). Rome is also an excellent place to roam around in at night. The Colosseum and many ruins are lit at night.

James: The second morning we were in Rome, we got to see a huge political demonstration and protest right outside our hotel window. For about two hours, thousands of people of all ages marched by in the streets, with banners, flags, drums, songs, chants - you name it. It seemed to be a mix of many different groups: There were labor supporters, environmental groups, the Communist Party, anti-war protesters, anti-WTO protesters, social reformers, the Socialist Party, Northern Italian separatists, and many others. Italy has a very strong liberal political current, although the conservative parties have usually controlled national politics. There is a history of political struggle in Italy that has resulted in violence at times, and the government seems to dissolve and reform continuously. It was great to see so many young people here who care about making the world a better place. It was certainly a good photo opportunity.

Rachel: We got to know the young travelers at our hostel (we were the oldest by far) at the communal dinner at the spaghetti party on Friday night. They served a tasty vegetarian dinner and the company was excellent. There were Italians, Canadians, Australians, Japanese, two ladies from Iceland and Americans eating with us. I got a little disgusted with some of their young and cocky attitudes--we were never like that of course. On our floor, a group of young Italians were in Rome for a weekend of good times. One of their group (and I think there is always someone like this in any such group) was the loudmouth class clown type. He kept shouting "Lucca" at the top of his lungs. James had gone to download some photos on the internet and I stayed in the room and relaxed. It was dark and deserted and I heard one of the Italians yell long and slow, "Loooocca…" and then he repeated the name, yelling it louder and louder. It sounded pretty creepy and I watched the clock hoping James would bust a move back to the room. I am not sure whether Lucca is a real person, as he never responded. That night, it would be perfectly quiet, then we would hear "LUCCA . . . LOOOOCCA!" from down the hall and we'd bust up laughing. Soon we were doing it ourselves everywhere we went. If we get another cat, we're going to have to name him… you guessed it "Lucca!" Actually, we met the Italians at dinner that night, and they were very polite, just full of youthful zest and exuberance.

Our last day in Rome, we split up for the afternoon-James to take photos and I managed to wander around on my own without getting lost. I went to the Pantheon and sat down to people watch. I joined with others cracking up as a little black poodle humped the leg of the little boy who had him by the leash. That little dog was something else. If the little boy walked around, the dog bit at the leash, and if he stopped, the dog started humping his leg! The little boy seemed oblivious to it all.

During our entire trip, I could count the overweight people I saw on one hand. Based on my observations, the reasons for this appear to be that their portion sizes are about 1/2 of what we are used to; their food is not smothered in processed cheese like our versions of Italian (and Mexican) food; they rarely snack on junk food and pops; their bread and food is made with basic wholesome ingredients and lacks the long list of artificial colors, flavors, additives, preservatives, etc., the desserts and sweets are never sickeningly sweet or rich or covered with thick frosting like ours, and their fruits and vegetables are very fresh and taste crisp and sweet unlike the mass produced chemically ridden produce we settle for at our "supermarkets." In Italy, it is definitely quality over quantity.

Italian Adventure: Arezzo (Part 4)

2008-06-22T12:57:00.002-07:00

Part 4: Arezzo

James: On Tuesday, 11/13, we took a bus to Arezzo. It rained on the way to the bus, stopped while on the bus, and of course started pouring as soon as we got off. We took a city bus to the youth hostel, which is an enormous villa with a huge garden just outside of town. We got a nice room to ourselves for $30. This was the only hostel we stayed in that wasn't full. Arezzo is a small medieval town in eastern Tuscany, and we liked it immensely. For some reason, we just were in a bad funk in Siena, and only by leaving town could we shake it. Arezzo was perfect: small, little traffic, very friendly people, excellent sights, no tourists, and great food and best of all it didn't rain (at least not much). Arezzo is a walled city with an enormous fortress from the days of warring city-states. The fort was free, and is still in a pristine condition. It was set in a lovely city park, and we walked nearly alone through the entire compound, the ramparts, buildings, caverns, towers, etc. It was right out of The Lord of the Rings or Dungeons and Dragons. We also toured a Roman amphitheater and aquaduct, and some of the best churches of our whole trip.

Rachel: We especially liked the church of San Francesco, which was simple and unpretentious, but with a quiet beauty that the gaudy over-decorated duomos can't come close to. Excellent art and frescos inside as well by the Piero della Francesca. Unlike Florence and Siena, Arezzo was a charming town that really grew on us the more we stayed.

James: We also found the best gelato of our whole trip here (gelato is the real reason we came back to Italy: Imagine the greatest home-made ice cream you've ever had, and it will pale compared to gelato. It seems to be a cross between custard and ice cream, but there's nothing like it. It's my favorite dessert of all, hands down). Meanwhile, my razor had gotten dull and unusable by this time, so we stopped into to a little tiny barbershop on a side street to get a shave. Eros, the curator, was a classic little old Italian man, but he was super friendly with us, and we had a good time hanging out with him. He was very curious about my digital camera, and I showed him my photos on the display. He wanted to know how much it costs to buy one. Getting a shave in an old-fashioned barbershop is always a treat for me. We also met a few people walking around, Alfiera, a poet, and a cantankerous old man who we couldn't keep quiet (his friend kept telling him to "Shut Up.")

Italian Adventure: Siena (Part 3)

2008-06-22T12:57:00.001-07:00

Part 3: Siena

James: On Friday, 11/9, we caught a bus to Siena, where we splurged for a hotel room ($55 for a double, bath and shower down the hall) at Albergo Bernini, which is run by the very friendly accordion-wielding Mauro. We kind of got tired of hostels after a while, and it was great to have our own room. It even had heat (the hostels never do), which turned out to be a good thing, as Siena was bitterly cold. We made good friends with Chico, a black and white cat that lived at the hotel. Chico visited us each morning on his "rounds," sitting on the bed and playing with us (a great way to start the day). One day when we returned to our room, Chico was inside waiting to bolt out the door-he must've gotten in when the room was being cleaned that day.

Rachel: We just walked around town the first night. Siena is a small-to-medium sized town that has perfectly preserved medieval streets and buildings, including the beautiful Piazza il Campo, the public square that is the heart of the city. The winding cobblestone streets, tall stone and "burnt siena" colored brick buildings and archways make it a beautiful place. As a bonus, traffic is highly restricted in the city center, which made it perfect for leisurely strolls through the old city streets. We found our favorite pizza place on our whole trip almost next door to our hotel: "Mister Pizza," which might lack a good Italian name, but more than made up for it in heavenly pizza ($1.30 for a huge slice). We had tried one or two other places before finding it, but once we did, we ate there everyday. James's favorite was potato pizza, without red sauce, covered with thinly sliced potatoes and rosemary.

James: At one of the pizzerias, we ordered a stuffed spinach pizza, then asked for it "caldo" or heated (all food is made ahead of time, and when you order, they will heat it for you in ovens). The lady getting us our food ignored us, so we asked again, then she kept repeating the price, so finally I pointed to the oven and asked, "Caldo?" when she stormed off in a rage, screaming "Caldo" and getting into a huge argument/fight with a manager, who eventually took her in another room and closed the door. I don't know if I was being especially rude, or if I was the tenth person in a row who had insisted that she heat up some pizza, but I definitely didn't make her day. I almost thought she was going to come out front with a knife, her manager trying to drag her back, so we got out of there fast and ate on the go. As we were leaving, another lady came out, and the next customer ordered and asked for it "caldo," and they popped it in the oven with a smile.

Rachel: An Italian we met at an internet cafe recommended "Ciao," a self-service cafeteria, with delicious home-cooked meals for an unbeatable price. These cafeterias ended up being the best places to eat, with amazing and varied meals with wine for about $5 per person. Just take your tray, and pick out whatever you want--salad bar, dessert table and cooks behind counters cooking up 3 types of pasta or risotto dishes to choose from-all prepared in smaller quantities--very fast and very fresh.

James: The next day, and all other days in Siena, it was cold and rainy. Rachel caught a cold, which put her in a crabby mood for the first time (she had been doing very good so far, which is saying something. Rachel, at least when traveling, is kind of a cross between Jessica Tandy in Driving Miss Daisy and Gelsomina from the film La Strada). We walked around town and saw the Duomo, and had some good food, but the rain just wouldn't let us enjoy ourselves much. Unfortunately, our favorite activity is walking (we really don't see many "sights") and either rain or cold doesn't bother us much, but the two together were miserable. Rachel's journal for Siena has one word above all: Rain! Our first day was so windy that our little umbrella was nearly destroyed! From then until the end of our trip, when we were huddled under our pathetic twisted umbrella in the rain, we referred to ourselves as "Les Miserables."

A payphone was right outside our door at Albergo Bernini, and each night a couple from America would call home to talk to their kids and their grandfather about what they did that day. They had rented a car, and were having a much more exciting and enjoyable trip than we were, so we began to look forward to eavesdropping on them each night. The father had such a wonderfully pleasing and joyful way of speaking with his kids. I had wanted to go out a meet him, but I never did, not wanting to spoil a strange notion of mystical being that I had in my mind, who calls from exotic destinations around the world and lovingly describes the amazing things he has found. In better times, this guy would have been the storyteller of his tribe, and probably a memorable one.

Our last day in Siena, I got the great idea to take a road trip to the picturesque hill town of Montalcino, in southern Tuscany. It rained on the way to the station, where we missed the bus and had to wait for two hours. (Rachel: It was a three hour wait.) As soon as we got on the bus, the sun came out and there wasn't a cloud in the sky. Our bus ride through the vineyards and villages of Tuscany was great. However, the second we got off the bus in Montalcino, guess what happened? It started to rain… After walking around the deserted town in the cold rain for five minutes with our pathetic umbrella, Rachel had HAD ENOUGH! She took the next bus back, but I stayed. It stopped raining soon, and I took a two hour hike through the country side, passing vineyards, old churches and farms. I finished my day with an excellent glass of local wine in a pub. It turned out to be a great day-trip after all. Rachel visited the Church of San Domenico, where Saint Catherine is buried (the first female saint) and her preserved head and finger are on display for pilgrims. More phrases from Rachel's journal for today: I want to go home! I miss Kitty! We checked our e-mail for reports on our cat (she was doing just fine, but a little lonely).

Italian Adventure: Florence (Part 2)

2008-06-22T12:56:00.000-07:00

Part 2: Florence

James: On Monday, 11/5, we took the train to Milan, with the help of Anna from our hostel, then got train tickets to Florence. It was our first time negotiating the train system, but it really was very easy. The Milan train station is an amazing building, built in the 20s by Mussolini. It is a monumental and stunning building with marble walls, fresco paintings, and a glass roof. We found the train system to be a great way to get around. On our first trip, we drove a car, but we could hardly imagine now negotiating Italy and its crazy streets. We got the last two beds in the Florence youth hostel. We were surprised to find most of the hostels and backpacker hotels to be full on our trip. Italy, being warmer, is still popular in the off-season, and the independent travelers have not let the fear of terrorism stop them from coming, so it was always very lively. We could tell that the tour groups and busses were way down, and businesses that rely on them are suffering right now. At night, it was obvious that many restaurants were empty.

Rachel: Our first night in Florence we walked around, and I bought some roasted chestnuts from a street vendor. It was our first time eating them and they were good! Our first view of the duomo at night was stunning. Our first day in Florence was rainy off and on, so I bought a cheap umbrella for $5. We toured the Uffizi art gallery, which was good to see, although a bit overwhelming. After a couple hours, we found it hard to concentrate on the paintings. We liked the Botticelli, Raphael, Carravaggio and Rembrandt paintings especially. The rain stopped in the afternoon, and we walked around town and ate some pizza from a by-the-slice pizzeria, which usually have tasty and inexpensive food. At the hostel, we stayed in a four-bed room with various people, first a couple our age from Australia (nearing the end of their 7 months' long travel), then two young Japanese (Hiro and Takwaya (sp?)), who were very friendly, but didn't speak much English, and a young outgoing Canadian from Toronto, Rob. It was a very nice hostel, with movies every night and breakfast (granola and yogurt). They kept showing The Godfather each night for some reason. Except for the Australian couple, who were our age, the hostel was exclusively younger travelers in their 20s. Although we got to know our roommates, we had a harder time fitting in here. Most of the kids smoked, making the common rooms unbearable. We enjoyed walking around Florence by night also, and always found something good to eat, although our staples were pizza, foccacia, and pasta.

James: It would be rainy off and on throughout our stay in Florence, but it was warm and it didn't bother us much (not yet anyway). We toured the Duomo, one of the largest churches in Europe, with the greatest dome of them all, built by Brunelleschi in the 15th century. We climbed to the top of the dome, which had great (although cloudy) views of Florence. We spent a lot of time walking all over town, especially the Arno River and the famous Ponte Vechio (a multi-story pedestrian bridge from the 14th century). I also had the chance to meet our friends John and Mike from Minnesota for some good food and beer. By chance, we just happened to all be in Florence together at the same time.

Rachel: My idea of fine Florentine dining was getting great pizza slices to go and taking it back to Ponte Vechio to eat on the bridge at night. Our last day in Florence, we took a day trip to Fiesole, and small town overlooking the Arno valley. It rained a bit, but we had a good time walking around town, and we took a long hike through the forests and countryside outside of town. Back in Florence, I found some pretty scarves and a great outdoor market. James hates to hear this phrase, but in my opinion "the best shopping" was in Florence-not that I shopped all that much.

Italian Adventure: Menaggio (Part 1)

2008-06-22T12:50:00.000-07:00

Introduction

James: Our first trip to Europe was a huge success and tremendous fun. Our three week circle tour of Germany, Austria, Switzerland and Italy was enjoyable from start to finish. For the past several years, I have wanted to return to Europe, especially to Italy. Rachel usually watches Rick Steve's Travels in Euorpe on PBS, and I had been growing increasingly frustrated at watching Rick travel, but not being able to go ourselves. We always had a trip planned six months away. In the spring, we talked about going in the fall, and in the fall, we talked about going next spring. I had been looking into traveling on my own in 2001, which I think finally caused Rachel to realize that I would be going, with or without her, and we finally began to get serious about planning a trip. I left the decision where to go up to her, but we both liked Italy so much on our first trip that it was an obvious choice.

Rachel: We chose November 1st was because the "off season" airfare to Italy starting November 1st drops dramatically from about $800 to $500, thus saving us about $600. Additionally, I did not want to leave Minnesota in the early fall because I wanted to enjoy Minnesota's lovely autumn and Halloween.

James: Rachel's packing began months ahead of time, with a detailed list and preparations. My packing begins the night before. We brought so little that it really didn't take very long to assemble everything. Eventually, Rachel could get me so mad by asking, "Do you think I should bring these pants?," which was a daily event for some time. But I suppose that my packing was made much smoother and easier by her careful planning ahead, so I will give her thanks despite the pulled hair.

Rachel: The night before when James began to pack, the first thing he asked for was my list and then he went through it item by item to make sure I hadn't forgotten anything! It takes careful planning and weighing every ounce-as it turned out each of our packs weighed only 15 lbs. And I had carefully planned and gotten ready many of the items he packed.

James: Our flight to Milan through Newark was very good. Both arriving and leaving Newark, we flew next to the Manhattan skyline, and even saw the powerful lights at the WTC evacuation sight on the way out. We also flew over Ireland, southern England, the English Channel and northern France at night, with all the city lights glowing, and a full moon reflecting on the ocean and lakes. It was perfectly clear and a truly amazing sight, probably the best I've ever had from an airplane. As if trying to top that, we flew over the Swiss Alps at sunrise, which was also spectacular. The only other memorable event was that a little girl sitting across the aisle from Rachel threw up all over the floor when landing in Milan. For some reason, these things always happen to Rachel.

Rachel: The only two little kids on the whole plane had to sit across the aisle from me-coughing nearly the whole trip. It wasn't my fault I sat in the aisle seat. What can I say?

Part 1: Menaggio

James: In Milan, we caught a bus that would take us directly to Menaggio. However, just north of Milan, traffic came to a full stop. Europeans treat a traffic jam as a kind of impromptu party. Every gets out of their cars, people break out food and drink, and wander around talking to other people. It was something to see. A group of college kids in front of us even planted a school or team flag of some sort by the side of the road, and broke out the champagne and set up a buffet. Eventually, many police cars, tow trucks, ambulances, and a crane passed us on the shoulder, and we heard that an accident was blocking the highway. Soon cars were turning around on the highway and heading back on the shoulder. Our bus couldn't turn around, so we waited about two hours before continuing. Three semi trucks had collided and rolled over, requiring the crane to remove them from the highway. I don't know if anyone was hurt, but the trucks didn't appear to be badly damaged, and I think we only saw one ambulance.

Rachel: After finally clearing the accident, we made our way around the beautiful Lake Como to Menaggio, talking with our driver Antonello, who was exceptionally friendly, and a good driver, considering the roads are about 20 feet wide with a nasty drop into the lake if we missed a turn. We had been to Menaggio on our last trip, and it was our favorite city in all of Europe, and it did not disappoint this trip either. The weather was perfect: warm and sunny, with some of the best scenery in Italy. It really is hard to beat. It is a small town in the foothills of the alps, between the steep mountains and the stunning lake. The people were friendly and had a pleasant, warm, and relaxed attitude. Although the town is great, we really came to stay at the La Primula youth hostel. Despite being an exceptional hostel in every conventional way, their real claim to fame is the communal dinners that they serve each night. Italian women work all afternoon to prepare a traditional multi-course meal with wine, bread, salad, soup, pasta, main course and dessert. They even served us vegetarian meals on request, although more often than not, vegetarian meals were served as a matter of course. And best of all were the large communal tables where we shared stories and get to know fellow travelers. We met an American biker, Josh, who is living in Switzerland, two French ladies (Isobel and Veronique), a group of American girls who were studying art and architecture in Florence, a web-designer from Amsterdam (Anna), and many others. It was a great mix of the more numerous younger crowd, and some older folks (like us). The hostel closes on November 5th, and the last night they had a Ska party, with friends from Menaggio and travelers filling the hostel to overflowing. Free (spiked) punch, an excellent buffet, and great (if loud - hey, we're getting old) music made for a great time.

James: During our three days there, we took hikes in the surrounding hills, visiting small towns, country lanes, old churches and spiritual sites, and medieval walls and buildings. It was definitely the best hiking that we would encounter on our whole trip. We were taking a short break in the small village of Camozzi, when the whole town came towards us with flowers and banners. We had sat on benches next to an old war memorial, and this must have been a kind of Memorial Day. All the veterans in the town had their uniforms on, and they read off the names of those who had died in various wars. A priest said a blessing, kids held banners and flags, and the mayor made a speech. After about 30 minutes, it dissolved about as quickly as it had started, and we continued on our way. We visited an ancient oak tree on a hill side called Rogolone, where people used to meet to make important decisions in medieval times, and also the church of San Giorgio with a crypt with rows of bleached skulls on the shelves, and frescoes from the 13th century. About a 5 1/2 hour hike - Rachel even made a new friend on the way. We also took the ferry around the lake to the town of Varenna, where we hiked around and visited the old fort that overlooks the lake (Castello di Vezio). We had to bring warm clothing everywhere, because as soon as the sun set behind the mountains, it turned instantly cold.

Rachel: Our first night in the hostel we slept in separate dorm rooms, but the second night we were told that we could have our own room. There were four bunks, but they said it wouldn't be a problem to have it to ourselves. It was a little surprising when at 11 o'clock that night, a young couple [he was Bavarian; she was from Spain] walked into our room and began unpacking. They had come in late and these were the last beds left. It wasn't too bad sharing, but they were making out together in the morning in the same bunk bed (it's kind of a romantic place). But we had the room to ourselves on the last night. The weekend was actually a long weekend in Europe, as most people have All Saints Day off, so many Europeans were traveling.

James: In the evenings, the Italians come out to stroll around the central piazza, and by the lakeside. It is a wonderful and very social scene (it sure beats everyone staying inside and watching television). I was taking a picture of a Smart Car, when an older Italian gentleman stopped us and talked to us about the little cars, his country, and the war in Afghanistan. Soon, his family and friends joined us and we had a lively little circle around us engaged in a big discussion. It was mostly in Italian, but the man that we first met translated for us. We really didn't get a chance to say much, as they all talked at once. We found friendly Italians all over, but we found that only in the smaller towns that people talked to us on the streets.

Poland: Following the Czestochowa (Black Madonna)

2008-05-29T13:14:00.000-07:00

It was a breezy, March day when I left Radom to visit Czestochowa, the pilgrimage site in Poland where it is said that five million pilgrims travel to visit Jasna Gora (Bright Mountain). It is the site of the 14th Century Paulite monastery, a monstrous cathedral, and, its highlight is the chapel that houses the icon of the Black Madonna. Hoping for a spiritual experience similar to one I had had in Turkey, I was eager to visit the crowded Polish site. For eight months before, I took a trip with three Turkish friends to Seljuk, just east of Kusadasi. Rich in its historical importance, Seljuk is the city surrounded by the famous ruins of Efes, the Cathedral of St. Paul (also ruins), and Meryemana - the House of the Virgin Mary -- where it is said the Holy Mother was led by St. Luke to spend her last days. The Muslims also believe in the Virgin and she is the only woman mentioned in the Koran (some five or more times). Five million pilgrims also come to Meryemana to pay their respects, leave wishes and prayers, and tokens of gratitude for the miracles they claim she helped make happen.

Meryemana is unpretentious in every way. There is an old well and pool where believers are said to have been baptised and there is a small chapel-museum housing a variety of icons. The simplicity was most fitting and I was touched at how the surrounding natural environment was utilized to make the whole place feel more spiritual. Natural well-springs ran with water (it is a very strong belief among the Muslims that water always be available and for free to whomever is passing by); small stone edifices from the ruins were converted into places for leaving tokens and wishes; and, even the church services were held outdoors near a grove of dwarf trees. Inside the house-turned-chapel, I remember one small icon depicting the ascension of the Virgin. She is dressed for burial and Christ is standing over her. In His arms He is cradling a baby, also dressed in white. It took my breath away because I realized the significance of that child in his arms. In most icons, the Virgin is seen holding the Christ Child in her arms, and there - in that beautiful painting - it was Christ who was tenderly carrying The Virgin Mary to heaven. Overall, Meryemana was a worthwhile and beautiful journey for me.

So, I expected something similar in Czestochowa. The history of the monastery is that it was founded in 1382 and that same year, Prince Wladyslaw II of Opole gave the Paulite monks the icon that has become known as the Black Madonna. According to legend, it is said that St. Luke painted the icon in Nazareth, though historians have dated it to as recent as the 6th-7th century Byzantium. How it was acquired by the Polish prince, I am not certain. Most remarkable about the painting are the two scars on the Virgin’s right cheek. The story is that during its journey to Poland, the picture fell into the hands of thieves. Tired of carrying the heavy icon, they slashed at it in frustration with their knives, immediately causing the image to bleed pools of blood. The legend and power of the icon grew when, in 1655 and 1705, Swedish invasions failed to conquer the monastery while the rest of the country was overrun. Eager to see this with my own eyes, I took the train from Radom and arrived in Czestochowa about three and half hours later.

My first impressions were darkened by the sight of Nazi, fascist, and racist slogans splattered along every street leading to Jasna Gora. I even saw one for the Ku Klux Klan which had been painted over by the building’s owners several times, but the hooligans, who seem to run this country, managed to rewrite it each time. Do they even know what the Ku Klux Klan is all about? Isn’t it all a bit too ironic, then, in the city of this holy Christian site? I get enough of these wicked signs in Radom as it is, and to see it so much more in Czestochowa only drowned my hopes.

As I wandered down some back alleys, I heard music and singing from loudspeakers and coming from the direction of the hill and monastery. I was reminded of Turkey and how one can always hear the prayers that float over the air five times a day. I started to relax and, as if pulled by the service being conducted on the hill, made a straight beeline up the main road called the Avenue of Our Lady (but in Polish, of course). My spirits rose just a little. During my stay here, I have become extremely cautious in expecting too much from Poland.

Although the monastery is the site in Czestochowa, the walk up the hill is not at all strenuous. I stopped at the gift shop first, hoping to get more information about the sights I was about to encounter and that was when I first noticed the scars on the Virgin’s face as depicted in the numerous icons for sale. The shop was as kitschy as you can get, but I wasn’t there to shop. I was there for information and I asked a nun in Pidgin Polish about the scars. She replied sharply, “That’s the Virgin Mary! Don’t you know the Virgin Mary?” That’s not what I was asking. I again, patiently, pointed out the scars on the plastic icon and asked again. “Jesu Christi,” she cried, “What language do you need?” Quite stunned by her non-Christian manner, I told her I prefer English. She tossed me a guidebook in English, told me it would be $12.00 and that I could read about it in there. I thanked her quietly and left.

Feeling more than disheartened, I wandered in through the gates, encountering signs warning me that this was a holy place and begging for silence in six languages. However, the areas were all crowded and nobody was paying attention to the any of the warnings in any language. I saw the ugly radio tower of Radio Jasna Gora first. Trying to turn a blind eye to it, I followed signs and wandered from place to place, but nothing drew me until I reached the armory. My guidebook - a year-old, torn-up volume - had stated that there would be a lot of weapons from World War II there and I thought I could do a little research for my book. Although the armory was more than fascinating (and I’m not being facetious), I saw mostly 17th and 18th-century sabers and treasures acquired in the war against the Turks in Vienna (which Poland helped win). So, unless the Poles fought with these in World War II… well, that may explain some things… there was not a lot to see from the 1930s and 1940s. I will, however, add that having already been in Turkey, it was fascinating to see these treasures in Poland and how intricately woven the tapestry of history is.

Moving along, I finally decided to head into the main sites: the cathedral and the chapels. It was time to see what I had come to see, though I had only been on the hill for less than half an hour. I entered the packed chapel just toward the end of a service and was once again surprised to see how many young people were in church. It was Saturday afternoon, after all. Then, I wondered, how many of these same kids are the ones who are spray-painting graffiti in the streets of this country? Many. I can tell you that from my experiences in Radom.

As soon as the service ended, I joined the crowd that was pushing in for the next service, which happens every hour. Everyone was making their way to the front of the altar where, behind barred, iron gates, hung the large icon of the Virgin. It was at least six-feet tall and four-feet wide, so I could understand why the thieves got frustrated. It’s not exactly the kind of treasure you can just run off with without drawing a lot of attention. Around the altar and the surrounding sacristy were thousands of amber prayer beads, hung from every possible place along the walls and facades and creating a warm, autumn glow in the chamber. Except for the murmurs - often impatient at that - of people excusing themselves and the sound of pressed bodies shuffling forward, the chapel was quiet. I was trapped into the crowd before I could change my mind, and I started to pray fervently as soon as I saw the icon looming closer. I wasn’t praying for anything, however, except to survive the attack of claustrophobia that I was having at that moment. My head started to swim and I saw curtains of gray threatening to close off my line of vision. I thought if I collapse there, the crowd would just trample over me. About five rows before getting to the bars (and imagining myself smashed up against the iron with still no breathing room), the loud speakers suddenly started to blare Radio Jasna Gora. Now, mind you, there are still a million signs demanding Silence! and reminding us that this is a Holy Place! A little music wouldn’t have destroyed the atmosphere, had it been the right music. This was not the right music. It was some sort of enthusiastic advertisement for a CD compilation of what I could only fathom to be alternative Christian rock bands. The whole place had turned into a poor excuse for a circus and I frantically tried to get out.

Bruised and emotionally wounded, but finally able to breathe, I headed straight for the outer ring of the monastery and walked in the fresh air. My search for a spiritual uplifting lasted a whole hour. I was ready to go and wanted to leave fast. I headed, instead, for another 3-1/2 hour train ride to Krakow, the real sanctuary for me in this country. In a coffee shop, tucked away in a back alley, is an exhibition of photos from Turkey. I knew that I could reflect on the better pilgrimage I’d made eight months before.

(It is worth mentioning that Czestochowa, solely dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is the only pilgrimage site of its size where there has NEVER been a recorded sighting of the Holy Mother.)

Christmas in Krakow: A Reflection on Traditions

2008-05-29T12:48:00.000-07:00

Every culture has its own Christmas traditions, and I am not ashamed to say that I am wholly and partially biased toward the Ukrainian rituals. Though, while I’m in Poland, the Polish is more than good enough and that’s what I was seeking out when I decided to catch an early-morning train to Krakow.

Krakow has all the positive vibes Radom - a tough, industrial, idle city -- does not. Krakow’s academics, artists, mixed in with the folksy people who come to sell their wares from outlying villages at Rynek Glowny (the Central Market), create a lively, inspiring atmosphere. Having escaped annihilation in World War II, Krakow is one of the few cities in Eastern Europe that still stands in its original architectural glory. It’s a quintessential European town sought out by visitors from abroad and when I arrived there the weekend before Christmas, my spirits were more than uplifted; they soared the whole day.

From the train station, I took the Royal Way and passed Florian’s Gate, turning onto the cobbled, slush-covered street that suddenly opens onto the enormous square of Rynek Glowny. Kids toted wooden sleds and huddled together on corners, dressed in the fashionable puffy jackets of this season and comic, woolen hats with tassels and pom-poms. As they laughed, the balls of yarn bobbed and bounced in rhythm. Stalls were set up outside of the covered market building and I was greeted by carols sung from somewhere and everywhere. The sun pretended to offer some warmth, and a slight breeze blew down powdered snow from the crevices and crags of the buildings around the square. I was in a real-life crystal snowball. As the bells of the cathedral announced twelve o’clock, people passed me with brown, plastic cups of steaming liquid. I smelled cinnamon and cloves and followed it to the barrel-shaped stands selling real mulled wine. For the converted price of $1.25, I was a cheap date. It’s not often that I have alcohol these days (bardzo expensive), so it went, I’m afraid, straight to my head and I became doubly giddy, practically skipping through the market.

I wound through the Christmas-tree pathways and among crowds of foreigners and locals, passing stalls with beautifully handmade Christmas decorations, as well as necessary, kitschy things (so you could really appreciate the former). A stage was set up just under the clock tower, and I vaguely heard an announcer’s voice over the microphone. By that time I was eyeing a matinee movie when I was yanked out of my reverie by music. It was so familiar that I was forced to float back to the stage and the festival. There they were: young girls, boys, women and men, dressed in the native costume of Halychynna (the area of Ukraine where my family comes from), and singing Ukrainian Christmas carols. I whipped out my camera, trying not to fog the lens with my uncontrollable tears. Home sweet home! The boy on the end was even holding a staff upon which rested the Christmas star. One of the girls recited a poem of Christmas greetings. The crowd laughed and cheered. I got another mulled wine to choke down the tears and read the sign that said, “Bridges Across Borders” in Polish. I had come on the day when the group from Lviv (Lvov) was performing.

Ukrainians love Christmas and I, personally, have a hard time deciding whether Easter or Christmas is my more favorite holiday. Both religious celebrations are performed with such beautiful and happy rituals, that it’s difficult to say which one makes me feel more fuzzy and warm inside. On the other hand, Christmas is such a time of enchantment, of making dreams come true. It’s a fire that warms your heart in chilly surroundings.

In Ukraine, traditions stem from the old pagan rites. The decorating of the tree, for instance, was not something that was introduced with Christianity. Throughout Europe you will find that people do not put up their trees until - at earliest - the 22nd of December. More commonly, it is done on the day of Christmas Eve and is a family event. Candles are placed in the windows to light the way for ancestral ghosts and real, live visitors passing by. In the villages of Ukraine, groups of carolers go from door to door with Shchedryks - carol songs for the Epiphany, and also meaning, “bountiful and generous.” The host of the house prepares mulled wine, or other spirits to warm their wandering guests. The hostess prepares a meal of at least twelve dishes to represent the twelve Apostles that would later serve the Lord. (However, on Christmas Eve a fast is mandated: no meat or dairy products are allowed until after the midnight Liturgy.)

The carolers are bundled up in colorful scarves and carry the staff with the eight-pointed star, representing the star that led believers to Bethlehem to worship the new-born King. After the carolers leave, the family sits down to the feast. Kutia is the first and main dish: a mixture of boiled wheat, honey, poppy seeds and nuts, it’s a thick and warming gruel. The host takes a spoonful, says a prayer before the supper and then flicks the spoonful up onto the ceiling. If the kutia has been well prepared, it will stick to the ceiling and bring luck and prosperity to all those around the table. If it isn’t thick enough - duck! (We did this at our house every year, and my American friends would often comment on the little black specks on the ceiling. Every so often, we would paint over it. The big clumps, not many, were easily removed on Christmas Day.)

After kutia comes the red beet soup, borscht, with small dumplings named after the shape: ears. Inside the dumplings is an onion and mushroom filling. One dumpling will contain only black pepper. The lucky person (or unlucky, depending on your ability to down spices) who gets this dumpling will also have a year’s worth of luck. So even if you are pulling kutia from your hair, you’ve got another chance.

The soup course is followed by a fish cooked with onion and tomatoes (believed to have come to us from the Greeks and, in Poland, retains its name of Greek haddock). Fish, by the way, is not considered “meat” by the Catholic church.

After the fish, unbuckle your belt because the rest just come marching out and onto your plate. Choose a little of everything, from holubtsi, which are cabbage rolls filled with either rice and mushrooms or kasha (barley) and potato, or - after church - with meat and a mixture of any of the above. Sometimes a tomato sauce is served with it, or a forest-mushroom sauce. There are also pyrohy - Eastern European-styled ravioli filled with potato, sauerkraut, or cheese, or fruits; crepes known as nalysnyky and filled with cheese or fruit; a sauerkraut and pea salad; and the list goes on and on. Some people might notice an extra setting on the table or somewhere nearby. Non-Slavic celebrators have often asked us whether we were expecting more guests. The answer is always yes. This setting is for the dukhy - the ghosts of our ancestors who are certain to visit us and will need to eat as well. So a little bit of each course should be left on your plate and added to the dukhy’s plate.

In Ukraine, if you live on a farm, or even in the cities where you have pets, it is customary to be especially kind to the animals on the night of Christmas Eve (which is, by the way, the primary day of celebration). It is said that the animals can speak at midnight, so many farmers would set up some hay under the table and allow their favorite animals to rest there - sheep, dogs, cats, goats -- which would normally be stuck in the stalls in the cold winter. At our house, our pets would just get extra portions of left-overs, be dressed up in ribbons and bows, and there would always be at least one present for them under the tree.

After we eat and help our digestive systems with a good 1:1 ratio of vodka:food, everyone waddles to more comfortable chairs around the tree. Slowly we start to unwrap presents (you must sing a Christmas carol to receive it; everyone joins in if you’ve picked the right key), making our way toward the time when we’ll have to don on our winter gear over our fancy dress and head out to church. Carols greet us in the church, and then - drowsily - we make our one-hour stand through the service. After mass, sweets (now heavily weighed down with butter, eggs, and so on), fruit compote and tortes are served. Sometimes, the odd pierogi is taken from a cooled dish to be nibbled on or, if we were lucky enough, dad is baking the ham for the next day and we get to taste.

The next day, we start all over again at around 2:00 and finish unwrapping presents and exchanging gifts. This time we wolf down turkey, ham, and all the other high-calorie, tasty stuff along with an equal amount of liquids and spirits. Carols are sung until late into the night. Often, when I was younger, we would go caroling with groups from our church and, for hours, one parent or another would drive us to people’s homes. As I got older, these visits often turned into full-blown parties where we’d come to an abrupt halt in the route and just stay on until the morning.

Ahh.. Christmas… I was thinking of all this, with a great happiness outweighing the sadness caused by distances between those you love. I knew that the purpose of my coming to Krakow was to get to Ukrainskyi Smak, a restaurant under the Wawel - Krakow’s crowning hill and castle. I wanted to get there slowly, to work up my appetite and to enjoy my memories. Like an old wine cellar, the Ukrainskyi Smak has high, brick and stone arches and the two chambers leading to the dining rooms are filled with long wooden tables and benches. Carpathian rugs hang on the walls and cushion the benches. My friends, Ivan and Volodia, two musicians from Lviv, were playing the violin and accordion and greeted me like their long-lost sister. I joined an older couple from Krakow at one of the enormous tables and we chatted away in a mixture of Polish (from them) and Ukrainian (from me), over dinners of borscht, and holubtsi and pyrohy. I was smiling. I could feel the cracks in my face. I could feel the lightness in my eyes where sadness has seemed to weigh them down.

After Ivan and Volodia caroled for me (which made me weep with homesickness), I headed back into the darkened streets. Christmas wreaths and lights were hung across the roads and I picked my way along the uneven cobbled streets back through the market (pausing at the cathedral to send up a prayer of thanks). It was time to head back to Radom. I was infused with the Christmas spirit; enough to get me back home to Austria, where I knew my other family and friends were waiting. As were the all-new traditions I would experience in that part of Europe.

P.S. Until the western part of the Ukraine was invaded and, then, ruled by Poland, the country was primarily of the Eastern Orthodox religion. The country is still split between Orthodox and Catholic calendars. Therefore, due to the ancient calendar, most Ukrainians celebrate Christmas on January 6 and 7, Christmas Eve being the primary day of celebration. This is still the case in the Ukraine as well as in the Diaspora. In my family, we had two Christmases, as my father is Byzantine Catholic, and my mother is Orthodox. At our house, we also celebrate Easter twice.

Turkey Reflections

2008-05-29T12:38:00.000-07:00

I have been in Izmir on the Asian side of western Turkey for just over a month now and realize that if I don’t start exploring the country soon, I’ll miss the opportunity to visit some spectacular sites. I am not a tourist here. I am doing a summer tenure with an English language school in the heart of the city and far from the NATO and tourist sections of the third largest city in Turkey.

After writing several essays about my initial impressions of Turkey, I wondered if I was giving this country and its people a fair chance? Yes, their culture and mentality are different from mine but does that make them wrong? I have met beautiful spirits here - ones with a gentle nature and some with a vulnerable kindness. I have laughed until I’ve cried with people who have a wonderful sense of humor and a wide-eyed perspective on the world around them. And I have been harassed, stalked and bombarded. You can find both the bad and the good anywhere on this earth.

The woman across the street from me is in her sixties by my guess. She’s out every early morning, keeping her terrace spotless. It is a uniform ritual in this city: Despite the rubble in the streets, there is a tradition of keeping balconies, terraces, sidewalks and those expensive, hand-woven Turkish carpets, clean. The way a family used to hang their coat of arms above their doors, the Turks hang their carpets over balcony banisters.

As I gulp my first dose of caffeine, I remember the first time I saw my neighbor lady. She was craning her neck toward me while trying so hard to pretend she wasn’t staring. All four floors of the same building contain similar matrons on similar balconies. When I noticed the little spy doing the same on the third morning, I raised my hand to wave hello. She quickly turned around and ducked behind the breezy curtain leading, presumably, to her kitchen. It was as if I had just thrown a tomato at her and she was trying to dodge it.

It was with a little stifled laugh that I realized what I may have done. In Greece, my friend Panos had told me that in Byzantine times people would curse you by tossing ashes or dirt at you. This method of cursing, to this day, can still be done with the raising of the hand and slight flicking of the fingers. Our English or American way of waving hello can often be mistaken for this curse. That, and the nazar boncugu - the evil eye - are still feared.

It was with great surprise that I discovered Turkey’s fascinating history. I read up on the country before I came and, yesterday, I spent the whole afternoon reading my outdated guidebook from a used book store. I could feel the creeping, crawling fever and itchy feet I get when I read about other people’s travels. I may be far from home (certainly not "in Kansas anymore") but I’m working six days a week. Though I have plenty of time to explore Izmir's many nooks and crannies, I am anxious to expand my circles.

Orshi, my roommate, and I are trying to pick one place to go before she leaves in July. Our choices are pretty limited but only by time and cash. We have only two full days in which to travel and an overwhelming number of possibilities to choose from.

To the south of us and less than two hours away is Sýðacýk harbor, Ephesus and Kuþadasý. Sýðacýk harbor was once described by 16th century Turkish navigator and cartographer, Piri Reis, as “an anchorage with water like yufka’.” Yufka is a paper-thin, smooth dough from which some of the most delectable Turkish pastries are made. In other words, to borrow from an old cliche, the water is as smooth as silk. Protected by Döganbey Bürnü and Teke Bürnü, it remains a snapshot of Turkey’s rich coastal villages.

In Ephesus, explorers and history lovers, students of mythology and the Bible, will find their curiousity satiated. First and foremost it is the site of the Temple of Artemis - one of the seven ancient wonders of the world. The temple was the first structure built entirely of marble and is four times bigger than the Parthenon of Athens. Even Orshi, who is miserly in handing out compliments, got all breathy when I asked her whether Ephesus was a nice place to visit. “It’s beautiful,” she sighed.

In 50 CE, Saint Paul arrived in Ephesus and converted a small number of Ephesians to Christianity. Though it took some time (and after he was run out of town), the city became the center of Christianity under the Roman Empire.

In nearby Selçuk (Seljuk), travelers will find the sites of the Basilica of Saint John and the House of the Virgin Mary at Bülbüdaðý (Nightingale Mountain). About five years after the death of Christ, St. John brought the sainted Mother to live out her days on the slopes of the mountain. It is now a popular pilgrimage site where both Christians and Muslims leave bits of tissue tied to the branches of dwarf trees to symbolize their prayers and requests.

What I wouldn’t do for a good midwestern American summer storm! A tornado. A violent downpour of rain. In July and August, the temperature will reach 47 degrees Celsius (117 degrees F). The air is already like pea soup in the afternoons and not a drop of rain has fallen in the five weeks I’ve been here. When it reaches 30 - 35, we begin swimming through the reeking smells of garbage from the scattered dumpsters; tripping over exhausted and dehydrated cats and dogs; and drowning in the fumes and heat from buses and cars. If a storm won’t come to clean this up, then I wish for pine forests and fresh lakes; rivers and jagged cliffs. Northern Minnesota is what I want. And that is more possible than a tornado.

To the north of Izmir is a little Turkish sanctuary called Ayvalýk. I have been tantalized by the information that it is a place of terra cotta, tiled roofs, brilliant Mediterannean blues, golden beaches and thick hills of pine forests. A small island just 25 minutes away, by boat, is home to about seven thousand people. Only! Living in a city clogged by four and a half million, Ayvalýk is a ghost town by comparison. Rooms are about five dollars per night and it will cost me six dollars to get there by bus, round trip. Fresh fish is grilled and sold right on the docks, amid the dry, comforting scent of pine trees.You can buy a good bottle of wine for a dollar and a half (Turkish white wines are a delicate and pleasant surprise. They are a gentle testament to what can be wrought from this often savage land, this turmoiled earth).

Or, if Orshi and I are really willing to release ourselves from the promising refreshments which the sea offers from the heat and the dirt, we could go inland to visit my friend's family...

...A few days ago, I served a lunch on my balcony to my friends, Tuðba and Arzu. They had requested a “traditional American meal” and I wracked my brain trying to figure out what that comprised. For a few days I contemplated going to Alsançak or Karþiyaka - where all the NATO workers live and shop on pounds and dollars - and getting peanut butter. What’s more American than peanut butter and jelly sandwiches? The hot dog? They’ve got it here (and serve it on their pizzas!) Grilled cheese? That’s English. Hamburgers? German and there are plenty of those available here too. French fries? Belgian. Pizza? Italian. Fried chicken, corn-on-the-cob, and biscuits! Yeah, but troublesome and way too heavy in this heat.

What I ended up doing was Americanizing spin-offs of Turkish foods. For example, basil is a sacred plant in both Greece and Turkey. It was the sacrificial plant to the Mother goddess of the sea and, to this day - even if they don’t know why any more - ship captains keep a basil plant on their boat. It is hardly ever used for cooking by the locals. However, Orshi knows where the foreigners live and eat and she was able to obtain some of the herb for me. I served tomato basil soup, a version which tickled my guests’ tastebuds as tomato soup is a staple in the Turkish diet.

The main course, however, was a divine inspiration thanks to my chats with my friend's father. Doner kebabs, often served "open-faced" on rounds of pita bread, are another regular dish and the Turks love this version of fast food. While brainstorming lunch food ideas, I came upon some thinly sliced steaks for beef kebabs. I bought half a kilo, an onion, green peppers and cheese and then some thick, white bread. I made Philly cheese steak sandwiches with ketchup and mayo and, while serving, winked at my guests. “These were invented in Philadelphia in the U.S., but the original Philadelphia is just two hours east of us...”

It is called Aleþehir (Aleshehir) today, and it is where Tuðba's father Ahmed was raised. It is a haven of vineyards (so, he tells me), fruit and olive trees, dusty, red hills and lakes. Another hour to the southeast and Orshi and I could be in Pamukkale, where natural caves, panoramic views and fresh springs wait to delight the hot trekker. We would rest under olive trees, or apricot trees; or perhaps tangerine and lemon trees. We would hear the bleating of sheep, wave to the weathered, black-sunned faces of the shepherds. Life would be simple for two days; we would eat simply, drink simply. Our accommodations would be sparse and rustic. When I go does not matter for this is a destination which warrants my time and it is part of my travel itineraries over the next three months.

Noah’s Arc rested on a mountain in Turkey after 40 days and 40 nights of storms. Byzantine Christianity was raised from Turkish earth. Mongols came across and brought the art of horseback riding, music, food, and other craftsmanship to Turkey. Ottomans and sultans cultivated the most incredible architecture, art, and culture. Though some of it may be gaudy by today’s standards, they are still a wonder. Gold, silver, marble and tile are only a few of the riches spawned from an earth violent with quakes. And volcanoes have helped to bring sweetness in the form of sugar cane.

Last Sunday, I felt my first earthquake. I was drilling through pronounciation when I noticed that my students were not responding. I glanced up at them from where I was busy, pacing the room, and they were staring into the corner where the media stand was, holding the huge TV. The whole stand was gently swaying back and forth.

“Ummmm...” I started, unsure of what to think. Everything seemed normal outside in the bazaar below us. “Is that what I think it is?”

“It” was a 5.5 on the Richter scale but the quake was underneath the seafloor, far away. We only felt the shockwaves. I would have hated being in a boat. But I didn’t learn all this until I talked with a friend in Istanbul a few days later. “Did you feel it?” she asked.

“It was more like I SAW it,” I said.

“It” also comes at a time when this country, as I just learned, will feel a new, negative effect of the current economic crises (brought on by the two earthquakes in the Marmaris region in 1999 and 2000). I can’t - no, I don’t want to - imagine how this will devastate more families. It will bring more elderly people and young children to the streets, begging for money. Some try to make this business legitimate by selling things: garbage bags, coat hangers, small packs of tissue. Their attempt at obtaining a handful of coins already makes my heart break.

Our school may see fewer students. Even if they have registered for the summer classes, businesses know that they can squeeze the life out of their employees. Ten hour shifts will become fourteen or sixteen hours. It’s too hard to find a job and too costly to hire employees to rotate shifts. Many of my students already cannot afford to pay their bills and I worry about my own bills. When I signed my contract in March, I calculated I would be earning about $550 by US standards. With the dollar reaching for 1.25 per each million lira, my salary is now comparable to $400 a month. On the other hand, with cash, my bargaining chips in the shops and bazaars are that much better. And my guilt, that much heavier.

My neighbor lady recovered from whatever curse I may have unintentionally put on her and she and I silently commune on our early mornings, on our separate balconies. Not a word has passed between us, but we still greet one another. Eye contact travels great distances.

Though I am surrounded by the charms against the nazar boncuðu, the only evil eye I fear here is the one cast by foreigners who come burdened with ignorance, by fear, and by misunderstanding. Perhaps I am naive to cast away those binoculars and seek out, and expect, goodness in all. But, and especially in Turkey, I wouldn’t survive without that vision.

Turkey: In Search Of The Garden Of Eden

2008-05-29T12:35:00.000-07:00

IN SEARCH OF THE GARDEN OF EDEN

I leapt out of bed at six a.m. Enough, I thought, I'm going for an early morning walk. By some lucky chance I might find a cafe open and actually satiate this nostalgic need for my mornings back in Minneapolis...

It's amazing what a person will see of their neighborhood when they aren't busy fighting for space on the cracked and treacherous sidewalks; when they aren't dodging traffic or shrugging off the stares and gapes of the locals, or having to decline invitations to spend money in their shops. It's amazing how many buildings you begin to realize exist and that it isn't just one big wall of concrete. There are splashes of personality and texture; secret gardens on terraces and balconies. Other people ache as much as I for a bit of green -- for a bit of life -- in this concrete, pastel hell.

The apartment buildings and storefronts are nothing spectacular. In the post war era, these buildings were erected to house the millions of people who flooded to the city for work. They are very Communist Era looking, but most have been trimmed and washed in a variety of pastel colors that remind me of those UFO-shaped suckers -- the Sweetart ones with swirly colors. Just like those suckers, these buildings all "taste" the same no matter which color you choose to live in: salmon pink and turquoise, lemon yellow and pistachio green, baby pink and baby blue, or washed out lavendar-brown like my building. Any of the above can be combined, mixed, etc. But few have gardens or room for terraces, though many balconies are decorated with gernaiums in painted olive-oil cans.

During a walk last weekend with two other foreign teachers, I showed them a special street where each house had at least two or three trees. Some of the homes were brand new, modern-styled, European-looking homes but they were all houses. It was a wealthy neighborhood hidden from the rest of Buca. My companions were breathing "ooohs" and "aahhhs" and Bridie, from Ireland, stopped in front of a garden with real vegetables and flowers growing in it. We stepped beside her as she reached through the iron bars of the gate, pointing. "Do youz t'ink we'd find a worm thar?"

At the moment it wasn't meant to be a funny question until I pointed out how repressed we must seem to the woman sitting on her four-season porch across the street. It was like we had come upon the Garden of Eden... It has become a serious and desperate mission of ours to find as many natural getaways as possible in this area...

On another day, while walking with Tugba, I saw a grove of trees behind a high, stone wall. I smacked her arm and said, "I saw this park the other day. But it looks like you have to pay an entrance fee." I pointed toward the gate where a little box with a guard was set up. "How much does it cost to get in?"

Tugba was laughing uncontrollably. "You don't have to pay a single lira. Just kill somebody."

I didn't understand her and believed she had mistranslated my question. As we walked a little further, where I could look past the openings of the barred gate at the entrance, I saw the rolled, barbed wire at the tops of other walls, and a guard was walking a large German shepherd in a distant field. I stopped where I was and gaped at Tugba. Orshi, my roommate, had just mentioned that she believed there was a prison somewhere down our street. I had laughed at her since she's paranoid about everything. But she had been right!

This morning, Orshi and I walked to the end of our boulevard where we can see some of the old bunkers of the original prison. She stopped short on the walk and said, dryly, "How could you tell this was it? It looks like the rest of Buca."

THE PEOPLE INSIDE THE PASTEL SHELLS

During my early morning walk, I reflected on the people of Turkey. It is impossible to create a fair judgement of an entire nation, so I must just give my own personal impressions of those whom I have met. It would be plainly obvious to any American that the Turkish family is much closer than it is back home. I have never seen so many fathers who truly take part in their child's life. You see them on the streets with their sons and daughters and the love and closeness is apparent. I see it in the grandfathers and fathers of my students when they are escorted to school. The family exists as a community. Elderly parents and in-laws live with their children's families and help raise their grandchidren. Indeed, when a woman is married to a man, the new bride has been chosen carefully as her duty is now take care of her mother-in-law as well as her husband and their yet-unborn children.

EFENDIM

The elderly here are taken care of by their children. Since the economic crises (which followed the two earthquakes in this country), many parents have either moved in with their children or vice versa.

These are a respective group of people. Even the most hooligan-looking teen will stop to pay his or her respects to the "Efendim". They greet them with formality - for example, "Iyi Aksamlar, efendim" if it's evening. The youngster may even -- if they know the elder -- kiss the efendim's hand and then, bowing, the younger will bring the hand to his or her forehead.

I pass by many salons during my walks in Serinyer. They are reminiscent of the American VFWs. Here, as a widower, you come for your breakfast, your 硹, or coffee. You sit with other widowers and play dominoes or a traditional Turkish game of tiles. And you gape at the American woman who passes you by, shrouding her with instantaneous, unspoken judgements regarding how she looks today.

BAYAN

There is a disturbing sugar-coating of warmth and kindness on the women here. I once wrote about the phoniness of Dublin girls I encountered -- how they were so overly concerned about fashion and vanity that they seem to have lost touch with who they are. Here, I think that the women are trying to forget who they are.

Choices are quite limited here. It's not all bad, however. Ahmed tells me that the women here hunt for rich husbands so that they can bathe in wealth and luxury. "Vultures," he declared, half-joking while glancing at his wife's enormous pile of shoes she's horded for herself from his shop. I turned to him and asked, "But if you do not allow the woman to have an education, to be an independent person, to offer something in return, what else do you expect? Of course she's going to try and find someone to provide it for her."

He chuckled at this and raised a finger and an eyebrow at me, simultaneously. "Touche."

The best job you can have as a woman here -- besides the typical, posh position as a civil service worker -- is to be a teacher. And even they are told what they should teach, for how long, and at what level.

As much as Izmir is modern, it still harvests a set idea of woman's place. Underneath the country's struggle to appear civilized, a woman can expect very little. And we women foreigners are regarded with extra measures of caution, resentment, hesitation, fear and jealousy. And then they starve themselves and dress themselves to look just like the cover models they see in British and American magazines...

BAY

I was forewarned about the men from the very start and have found them to be like any other southern macho: like the Latin Americans and the Greeks, they are passionate about owning the woman. They love you desperately and become violent if things don't work out the way they want them to.

I was walking with Neco one day, and we came upon two other men -- at different times -- that had introduced themselves to me in my neighborhood. I want to make it perfectly clear that, when introduced, I claim to be married. Though it may be difficult for my Turkish counterparts to understand why I would be here without my husband, they seem to realize that whether it's true or not, I am way off limits. Anyway, when we met these two other men, Neco became obviously uncomfortable in their presence over brief exchanges with me. I was reminded of dogs sniffing each other out on what they thought was once solely their territory. I became irritated with this. Neco agreed but shrugged, "That's how we are."

On the flip side, I have met a handful of men who are genuinely good natured, and who respect me as a teacher, and as a friend. The mentality of the culture may dictate what they feel and think inside, but to me they have been nothing but kind and lack ulterior motives. And this, you can find anywhere in the world. It's a reminder that I am indeed still on Earth and not on another planet as I tend to sometimes think.

THE CHILDREN

They are gems. They are precious jewels here. There are masses of them and they face incredible odds in overcoming and closing the gaps of poor education and economic hardship. Orshi mentioned that it was depressing sometimes to think of the number of kids who will realize so little here. I suggested that there will be -- especially with today's technology making the world smaller -- someone or a group of intellectuals who will say "enough is enough" to the corrupt government. There will be an intellectual uprising, or at least a fight back. Hopefully, anyway.

My students are normal kids with a lot more fear and respect for their adult leaders. Parents are very strict, but my neighborhood reminds me of where I grew up as a child and how we all played until midnight on summer nights. We didn't fear guns; we didn't fear molesters or kidnappers; we didn't fear gangs and drugs. All we feared were June bugs and whether our parents would call us in before we could finish our game. My neighborhood is filled with kids who play the same kinds of games I used to play. And so, when they kick the soccer ball around in the street below me while I'm trying to sleep, I try to bite my tongue before sending down a harsh "Sus!" After all, it is 12:30 in the morning.

At the little park on my way to school, there is another group of kids. The poor ones; the street kids. They are shining shoes and harrassing people for "para" - money. Shoe shining is a big business here. There are five well-dressed men lined up along the park wall first thing in the morning. They work until at least eleven at night. And they shoo the Dickensonian street urchins away from their reputable stands. When they do this, I can't help wonder if these same, youngish men started out just like these kids...

Overall, children are considered everyone's business. Anybody can come up to your baby, pick her or him up, smother him or her with kisses, bless the child and say a protective word from the evil eye (aha! The Evil Eye -- it's still apparent everywhere. Mugs, keychains, candles, everything you could possibly paint it on, you will find it). Unlike in America, as well, your business is everybody's business. Nobody turns away from a victim of danger and I have quickly caught on to this wonderful community effort in protecting our kids...

Along one of my streets, an electrical wire snapped in two and one piece of it was hanging above the sidewalk. Two children rounded the corner and the younger -- a boy of about five -- grabbed the wire and started to swing from it. I nearly had a heart attack. I cried out, "No, no Schatzele!" and gave him the tsssk common here for a scolding. He smiled shyly at me and walked away, embarrassed. An older man, coming towards me on the street, nodded his approval and we shared our concern over the wire with a mutual frown. It takes someone fourteen hours to remove a dead cat from a sidewalk flocked with passing people. I have no idea how long it takes for someone to climb up a pole to repair a live wire...

WEDDINGS

I have been so lucky - or unlucky, depending on how you look at it -- to attend two weddings already. Just like the Olden Days in America, this is how the woman gets away from her parents. There really is very little choice. Getting an apartment on one's own is mostly unheard of.

The first wedding was of one of our teachers. I attended but didn't feel a part of it. It all happened so fast, too. The two other Turkish teachers who escorted me to the ceremony had gone to have their hair done and dressed up so nicely, I thought for sure this was going to be some huge event. We entered an auditorium-like room. On the stage was a table decorated in white flowers, linens and some bows. Suddenly, the betrothed couple walked down a side aisle and mounted the stage together. A civil clerk and some relatives were also seated at the table. A large register was passed in which the couple signed their names and then the civil clerk asked some questions to the couple. She held out the microphone to the bride who responded with "evet". Yes. Her new husband did the same. Then there was clapping and the couple dismounted the stage and entered a receiving room. Behind me, a new couple was getting ready to go through the whole previous procedure.

Enormous boquets and wreaths were lined up near the platform where the newly married couple greeted their guests and received pieces of gold: medallions in red ribbons, bracelets, necklaces, etc. When everyone kissed, and the guests all received a little wedding token (almond candies), we were finished. Next, we moved outside and waited for the couple to get into their car and drive away, honking. Inside the receiving room was a new couple already...

As we passed the prison and turned onto the busy street, Orshi and I took one look at each other and ducked into a side street. "The pollution is so bad," she started, "that sometimes it feels like the grit bites your lungs... is that how you would say it?"

"That's pretty good," I said. " 'Bites your lungs' works for me."

Orshi is Hungarian, studied in Iowa, met her Turkish husband there, came back here with him to live and now he's back in America looking for a job to match his MBA. She's finishing her term with Bilmer and will rejoin him in a few months. "I think the correct term is 'burn'," she reflected.

"Yeah, either way it sucks." I winced at having sworn, knowing Orshi is kind of sensitive to it.

Ahmed has been sharing history stories with me and he has a funny way of swearing. One night he was starting a new lecture with me and began with, "When those Ottomans kicked their asses,..." He pauses and nods, squeezing out "kicked", "their", and "asses" as if someone might overhear him - like his mother - understand, and scold him. I laughed before he continued, "Ahmed! If you had been in charge of writing history books for my school, I would have paid more attention!"

I think we all would have...

Turkey Landscape: Sweet Peaches and the Sea

2008-05-29T12:25:00.000-07:00

We were sucking off the juices of our peaches -- Tugba and I -- and I could taste the saltiness of the sea on my fingers. Content, I leaned back into my beach chair and let the Cesme sun -- cooler than the one in Izmir just an hour north of us -- do its work.

Turkey's little miracles and surprises have been keeping me busy. Living here is like being on a constant rollercoaster ride; there is no continuity for the foreigner. But the things I am learning, discovering and experiencing -- the people I meet who open their hearts or their mouths (whether I want them to or not) -- are only available to the traveler who digs for them. I am conducting my own excavation in a land layered by ruin and treasure; in a land filled with boldness and humility; brashness and gentleness.

TURKISH TELEVISION

In the same way a person is revealed by what's in their bathroom medicine cabinet, TV reveals what is important to a country's people. It reveals the sense of humor, and defines the various classes (in Turkey, there are only two: making it and barely making it). It also unveils the role in which government plays in people's lives, or doesn't in some instances.

I catch a lot of old films, something like our classic Westerns. They're mostly set in the country, have a lot of hokey music and singing, and are always about boy loses girl to another bumpkin (one that doesn't beat her) and how the jilted boyfriend goes chasing down the robbing, thieving lover only to drag his sweetheart back by the hair and give her a good licking for her troubles. There are shootouts in the mountains that always end up on a seashore, somehow. Other older films I have seen include a story about two girls (in the early Seventies) who biked around Antalya in the south on a little holiday. They were from Istanbul and dressed in western style clothing: short skirts, tank tops, nicely done hair. All of the Muslims and country people they met scorned them or tried to rape them. In the end, one of the girls was raped and murdered. The message was clear: You will be punished if you run around half-naked, pretending to be something you aren't.

There are a lot of soap operas too, usually airing in the evening (movies, by the way, in the theaters are in English with Turkish subtitles, so I'm not totally stranded with Turkish TV. Except that Keanu Reeves sucks as an actor, even in Turkey). The soaps -- surprisingly -- show a lot of older people (widow/er, mostly) looking for new love. It's kind of sweet. But there is always a bit of violence no matter what the show. Either the mothers are beating their kids or the husbands are beating their wives. And this is in contradiction to how close the families really are here... but that's to be discussed later.

Music is a huge industry here. The most famous singer is Tarkan -- a dark-haired, blue-eyed, Benetton-styled hunk who even makes the most dowager housewife swoon. He's unbelievably handsome, running about in longish hair, an incessant five o'clock shadow, and those almond shaped blues that look like sapphires caught in pearls. Oh, yeah -- he's got a really great voice too. My personal favorites, however, are a woman called Burcu Gundes, Tarik (a guitar player and singer) and Alabina (actually from Saudi Arabia I believe) to whom I was introduced by my father.

I have gotten to know the music through videos on television. There are several stations that play music videos and there are ten videos for you to see. When the videos aren't airing, the three minute commercials (with the same songs highlighted) are. If you get tired of Turkish pop music (what my father used to call Bubble Gum Rock), you can watch American videos. There is an independent channel which apparently hijacked various MTV episodes, recorded them on bad video tapes, and now airs them for your viewing pleasure. The sound? You'll have a hard time hearing much, the quality is so bad, but you can practice your lip reading.

Then there is the news, which airs for about two wasted hours, on all of the channels so that if you only have two hours in which to relax and watch television, you have only one choice: the news. Apparently, film is a limited commodity here because during a fifteen minute news story, you will see the same photographs six or seven times over (but, sometimes they are shown at a slower speed just in case you didn't catch the flip of the prime minister's wife's hair the first fifteen times they showed it). The journalists also have a morbid sense of humor. They love to show people in anguish -- men trapped in rolled over trucks crying out over and over. They slow the tape down enough so that the men's cries become comical. In case you can't distinguish the curly, black hair of the victim's head against the dark, night sky as they pull the stretcher out to the ambulance, someone circles it for you in white while you listen, over and over, to the poor man's screams. If you happen to be a Turkish politician, on the other hand, be careful! The photographers are waiting for you to fall asleep or to trip on one of the uneven sidewalks just so that they can do instant replays twenty times.

I think you get the idea...

THE TIME

I meant to buy an alarm clock when I first got here, but I have learned that I don't need one. Here's how my day breaks down:

5:20 - The once-enchanting wails from the Mosques begin for the first of five daily prayers.

7:45 - The children pass beneath my bedroom window on their way to school. I'm usually up before that and having my coffee on the balcony.

8:00 - The selected ring leader at the school begins to shout out exercises and Turkish cheers to which all six million students respond. This lasts for ten minutes.

8:25 - "Buyurun Buca!!" - Buyurun is used when someone enters a shop, or is invited to partake in something. Buca is the name of our section of Izmir. This is hollered by various men who walk along the streets. In addition, they call out what they are selling. "Ekmek! Semit!". That's bread and little bagel-styled rolls with baked sesame seeds. These are piled onto a board and balanced on the men's and boys' heads. They are not allowed to quit working until they've sold all six dozen rolls. Other men are selling watermelons from their tractors (25 cents per kilo -- a kilo is almost two pounds), bed linens (five bucks for a bed-in-a-bag), plastic buckets, trashcans, mops, Pokemon baseball caps, and colanders (which melt on contact with hot water) for just BIR MILYON! Or, one dollar. Take your pick... it's all available to you at this early bird sale! It lasts until at least midnight.

9:00 - The first recess and break. The kids are wildly screaming in the yard. Somewhere in between, the second call is made for prayer from the mosques.

1:00 - Third prayer. School shifts are made. A new flood of kids start and a new session of chants and exercises are drilled through the loudspeaker and repeated by six thousand eager youngsters.

5:20 - Fourth prayer. Dinner time.

10:20 - Fifth prayer and time to do my exercises and stretches.

12:00 a.m. - the last football is kicked by the children playing outside my window and the cats begin to wail, looking for food or, worse yet, screaming and fighting while defending what measly thing they have found. This lasts until 5:20 in the morning.

Pretty simple and no need for a clock. I saved fifty cents.

TRADITIONAL AMERICAN DANCE

There is something about song and dance that bring people together and the Hokey Pokey has become my favorite ice breaker. It's unbelievable how receptive kids are to this adult-despised dance...

I was on my way to Bilmer (the school where I teach) and was stopped by a gaggle of girls in their red tartan-plaid school skirts and white blouses. Each grade/level has its own uniform so I recognized this group to be about 11 or twelve.

"Chrystyna!" They called out to me. I didn't recognize any of them. In fact, a few times I heard voices outside my window sounding as if someone was calling my name and now I recognized the girl's voice. But this group did not consist of any of my students. Try as I might to remember Turkish names (I have 110 students altogether), I cannot. But faces, I always recognize. And these were none of mine.

"Where are you going?" the ring leader asked. Her long, straight hair was pinned back by two plastic, blue butterflies. Their little sparkles gave off light even in the shadow of the evergreen under which she was standing. She was beautiful and fearless.

"I'm going to my class," I responded, smiling. "What are you doing?"

By this time, like the schools of fish in a coral reef, the whole group of girls had gravitated around her, smiling in silence. If I had demanded it (in Turkish), they would have fallen to the ground and worshipped me. But the leader was confident in our exchange as she spoke for all of them. "We are cleaning up the school yard."

"Aha!" I laughed, nodding at them all with approval. "That's good, because it needs it."

It was too much said. They giggled nervously and shyly. I had used vocabulary they did not know. Probably the 'aha' threw them for a loop. I decided to give them something they could use. "I have to go now. Good bye!"

They lit up again, and tittered among one another before starting their chorus of "good byes" and waving their hands. On my way to school, I decided that Hassan -- the shop owner next door -- must have told them my name.

Indeed, the next day, as I came home, several of the same girls were in their play clothes. When they saw me coming, they lined up on both sides of the walk. They waited patiently until I was close enough and there was a new spokesperson -- a dark-haired, dark-skinned, lithe girl. She was smiling when she burst out, "You are too beautiful!"

It stuns me every time either my students or the men here say this to me. It doesn't matter what their age. Many women have told me the same thing and I am thoroughly at a loss as to how to respond to the "too" part. I have learned, recently, that they mean "very" and not "too". Before realizing this, I'd wondered if I shoudl be apologizing. Now, I thanked the girl graciously and told her that she was beautiful as well. This embarrassed her in return. But it did not deter her from more conversation.

"Where are you from?"

"America," I replied.

There was wonder in their voices as they said "Ooooh" as if the concept was as unlikely as if I had come from the moon. The leader hesitated and I knew she was forming another question, her brain's dictionary flipping furiously. But she gave up and I kept walking on as she repeated the news to her friends that I was from America.

I popped into Hassan's shop for a bottle of water and when I came out, she was back to interrogate me, having successfully completed the translation in her head: "How old are you?" There is no shame in this question...

"Thirty two," I said, showing her with my fingers."How old are you?"

Her eyes seemed to roll into the back of her head as she processed the question. The other girl from the day before had crept up alongside me and, assuredly, waited for her companion to come up with the correct answer in English. She gave her a whole two seconds. Then she proudly said, "I am eleven years old."
The dark-haired girl followed suit, "I'm eleven too!"

I pulled out a pop quiz on a third girl who had also come nearer. "My name is Chrystyna. What's your name?"

"My name is Olya," she replied, grinning shyly. I told her my grandmother's name had been Olya. I was met with a blank look. I tried another one. "How are you?"

Olya snapped to attention on that one and replied, the way all my students reply in robot fashion, "Finethanksandyou?"

This became our daily exchange on my way home and on my way to work. Last night I got tired of it. On my way home, I stopped and taught them the Hokey Pokey for a few short minutes. They laughed and their watching mothers laughed. Hassan and his wife as well as their mothers were on their shop porch drinking chai. As I walked by, still smiling, they asked me to come and have tea with them. I waited for my cup and the girls, in the meantime, had clustered around like the fish again. They wanted more Hokey Pokey. I made it more complicated this time, though Hassan tried to shoo them away. I gave in and we did some more dancing and laughing. I taught them the parts of the body, left and right, we swung our tails, turned and clapped our hands. Then it was tea time and they dispersed, though regretfully.

I promised I would teach them more the next day. Since then I have taught them the Chicken Dance. During a little get together of mixed Turkish and foreign friends, the girls saw us sharing Hungarian, Turkish, Ukrainian and Irish dance steps to each other. I threw in the Chicken Dance for more hysteria. The girls have learned it since and I am afraid that this little number is turning into all the rage on our block. Remember the Macarena?

The Cesme sun was hot, but the wind was blowing and the sea was crested with waves. Though Tugba and I went swimming, it was a challenge to stay warm. I told her I didn't care. Wednesdays are my only day off for the next couple weeks and I intend to take full advantage of them. We tossed our peach pits into a nearby bin and decided to walk into town.

We followed the shore and found a spot where only the locals go swimming. There are no ritzy beach bars or hotels, just a wide pool near where the boats dock. We regretted having left our things at the other beach. Here the wind did not exist and the sea was mirror calm. We walked on to the farther docks which were built into the breakers stretching out to the sea. Beyond them was wide open water, again filled with waves. On the inside, however, were several small pools formed of rock and people were soaking in them, some hidden by enclaves beneath the actual barrier. Tugba and I wondered what these people, with such satisfied, smug faces, were up to. I dipped a toe in and proclaimed, with astonishment, "It's a natural thermal here!" I stripped off my beach dress and got in. It was like a hot tub. Tugba wasn't so sure about the idea and she asked a Turkish man what this spot was all about. He explained that, from the earthquakes, there was a crack in the seafloor and that explained the hot water.

As I soaked in the surroundings and the calmness, I wondered again at the contradictions of this country. Just around the corner from my rock was a wild, beating sea, while there, in that pool, I was calmed by gentle waters created from a furious earthquake. I ate sweet peaches, tinged with salt, and found the taste satisfying. I am finding that same satisfaction in the elements of this country.

The Turkish Time Machine

2008-05-29T12:22:00.000-07:00

To A Friend's Honor

The bay was sparkling silver in the hazy dusk; a ship merged with a black-blue hill in the distance and disappeared into its dark folds. Alsancak was starting to light up as night fell, and the music inside the Karisma Bar and Cafe changed to a mix of techno and belly dancing.

Neco prodded me, 'What you t'ink, Chrystyna?'

I glanced at him and flashed him a guilty grin. I was thinking about how it would be Oliver sitting across from me in just 13 weeks and I would introduce him to raki -- lion's milk -- a mixture of anise liquor and water. I didn't want to tell Neco this because I had been talking about Oliver all day as things reminded me of him (which was everything). Then it hit me and my reply was true and honest. 'I'm thinking, Holy Moley, I'm in Turkey! How did I get here?'

My new friend, playing tour guide, was pleased with the answer. "Guzel, madame?"

"Evet. Chok guzel." Yes. Very good. I raised my glass to clink with his. "Sherif, arkadash." To your honor, my good friend.

The dictionary lay between us -- I've already begun to wear it down and there are notes scribbled in every blank space between the covers and title pages. Neco speaks about as much English as I speak Spanish -- very little, but enough to be understood with the help of charade talents. My Turkish, on the other hand, is raw. But its music and rhythm are beginning to seep into me. And this country has started to grow on me -- like the barnacle on a whale. There's no way I could ever find where it grows and no way for me to remove it.

Some places are meant to fall in love with instantly: Ireland, western Austria, Cinque Terre in Italy, Nova Scotia, northern California. It takes very little for me to feel at home in those places. Other places require an acclimation period: Antwerp, Belgium; Ukraine, Toronto, England and Izmir. I may fall in love with other places in Turkey, but Izmir was a battle.

The next day was my day off. Neco called me shortly after lunch and we met at the corner of my block (he lives only six blocks from me). We were on our way to check out the thermal bath at Balcova.

It was a rare day off for him. Like most working Turks, he's on the job twelve to sixteen hours a day, seven days a week. For the equivalent of $10 per DAY. Neco (pronounced Neh-jo) is a waiter at the cafe I frequent. Next door, is Ahmed's shoe shop and Ahmed himself pops out to have cay (tea) with me to discuss his hippie days in America when he lived in West Viriginia. His daughter, Tugba (Arabic for 'heaven'), is taking me on a girl's night out to Karsheka (across the bay by ferry) this Saturday. Among them, I have made good friends and placed myself into good hands. Inshallah.

The bus to Balcova was hot and dusty, just like the outdoors. To carry on a conversation with Neco requires patience and time. The smallest item of discussion can take up to a half hour to clarify, but it's always done with a mixture of good humor and frequent apologies on both ends. We often burst out laughing because belaboring a point simply becomes comical. Neco has mentioned that I'm very good at guessing what he means and I remind him that I get paid to do that every day.

When we finally reached the top of the hill of the small city, we stepped through the gates of the spa. The quiet hit me like a rock from nowhere. I stopped in mid-stride and looked at Neco with wondernment: all I heard were birds and the careless breeze playing with the leaves of the palm trees. Flowers were bursting in blooms of reds and pinks, whites and lavendar. And then I saw it: It was the most shocking and beautiful sight to my eyes and I wish I could tell you the name of the tree, but I haven't a clue yet. Like an apple or a cherry tree, but more delicate in blossoms and branch, this tree burst into a fire of blue violet. Against the dusty, sage-green hills, it was a celebration to life, fanning out like the Japanese trees we used to paint with plastic straws and ink in grade school.

"Anybody can come here?" I asked as we proceeded to the domed building housing the spa and hospital.

"Yes, of course. No problem," Neco replied, sounding just like the students reading out of their books in yesterday's class. ("I'm cold. Could you close the door please?" "Yes, of course. No problem.")

I picked up a price list for the spa; our purpose was to see as much as possible in and around Izmir so that I could get to these places on my own later. Neco, afterall, must follow the money and go to Bodrum for the tourist season in a few weeks. However, there was certainly time for a bit of r&r and coffee. We climbed the terrace gardens, gradually making our way to the umbrellas and tables we saw above us. However, when we were level with the outdoor patio, I gasped. Before us spread a little area of stubby olive trees, umbrellas and a haven of straw kilims and huge pillows. Before various sets of pillows were short coffee tables and a small group of people scattered about, sipping water or coffees; cay served in the delicate flute glasses; and wine.

"You want to sit here," Neco said in response to my gaping mouth. I nodded enthusiastically and we found a place where we could flop down. A lazy hour passed with quiet conversation and private reflection. Before us, the hills climbed above our umbrellas, disappearing behind the fringes.

After Balcova, we went to Konak in Izmir, which is a stretch of neighborhood on the sea. We walked through Basmane, then into Fuar where we wandered into the large but depressed Kultur Park. It's an attempt at a small scale Central Park, but sadly deserted and the cafes are heavily overpriced. I realized how lucky I am to live in Serinyer -- away from the tourist traps and inflated prices.

We were exhausted by six and grabbed another hot, dusty bus back to Serinyer. I never believed I would be happy to see my streets again, but I was. Back home, after kissing each other's cheeks twice, the way good friends do in Turkey (and Austria, for that matter), I threw myself on the couch, opened a bottle of red wine and dug into some cold chicken and a fresh shepherd's salad. It had been the perfect day. And I was pleased to be discovering parts of this city...

Old Smyrna: A Walk Between the Rich and Poor

As you may or may not know, Izmir used to be Greek Smyrna. A port town, it holds four million-plus people. It is simply enormous. And it's crumbly, economically weak (you are either rich or you are poor), and it contains secret places. Places probably not wise to walk around in as a foreign woman.

But I wanted to explore and so I made a long walk to the east of my neighborhood into Buca. Ancient, crumbling walls and houses, where the doors were sunk half a meter below the pavement, took me by surprise. This was the abandoned section where the Greeks used to live. An American-style cafe, with its warped and peeling English sign, was deserted eons ago but way after 1921 when the Greeks were pushed out of Turkey.

There were old stone fountains, and statues of Ataturk everywhere -- the father of Turkey -- usually surrounded by children holding his hand, or bronze youngsters gathered around his likeness, reading books. The parks I passed were sad excuses for a getaway in the city. Granted, there are some trees, but they are mostly paved squares with a cafe or two dotting the little landscape and blaring Turkish music (which isn't that bad, but when you want peace and quiet...).

As I walked by delipadated shops and sad, dark and dingy markets, I felt a heavy blanket of stares fall on me. There were times I grew nervous.. especially when cars brushed close by the sidewalk, blaring their horns at me -- the drivers' and passengers' heads turned to see who I am as they pass by. That was Buca...
On my way to Kemer, through Bucabalcova, I was struck with more poverty. This time, I walked toward the 'Turkish Delight Hill' -- the one that looks like a giant's pile of the sweets - and was struck by the colors again as the morning sun lit up the houses and clay-tiled roofs. But below me, from the uneven and high pavements, were the stone steps leading into the alleyways and roadways of the neighborhood. It reminded me a little of how the villages in Cinque Terre were laid out but dustier and dirtier. Pollution is a huge problem and there is no recycling. The problem with trash is an altogether separate piece I will have to write about (as well as the cats, rats and dogs).

Again, in Bucabalcova, I was stared at, honked at, whistled at. I turned the corner at the cemetery (currently being torn up to make a road, old marble tombs have been raided, robbed and left to waste until the bulldozers come to burry them over). Two girls with nappy hair and dusty, shabby clothes, were totting two toddlers. They followed me with shy smiles, and finally asked me, "English?" I stopped and smiled back at them. They were the same street urchins from Dickens. One girl made the international hand gesture for begging for money. I gave them some loose coins I had... enough for two loaves of bread and vegetables. And then I wanted to save them all... It was so hard and so sad.

I took the bus back because I was sick of the attention I was drawing. It's one thing to be followed by beggar children and another to simply be eyed up and down as if you are the next cow on the chopping block.

When I returned to Serinyer, I told Neco, Ahmed and Tu𢡠about my experiences. That was when Neco 'quit' his job for two days and insisted on showing me nicer places.

Because of his experiences in travel and his love for history, philosophy and politics, Ahmed is able to give me not only the Turkish perspective of things (I spend hours asking questions and obliterating stereotypes in the process), he also offers me an bird's eye view regarding Turkey's past. Learning about Turkey's present -- or trying to understand it -- is impossible without the history lessons. As for its future... there's a political cartoonist who said, "It has a past. You can't have expect to have everything." It was said about Greece, but I am learning through books and discussions that there is very, very little difference between the two cultures. They lived together for over 600 years and have become so mish-mashed that to try and find the root of one or the other is like trying to untangle the roots of a 600-year-old tree.

Teaching In Izmir, Turkey

2008-05-29T12:09:00.000-07:00

Turkey is a young country; its borders were fathered by Ataturk in 1922. It was after World War I and the country had had enough of its invaders and conducted its own cleansing. The Turkish language, spoken today, was also established by "The Father of Turkey"; Arabic script was replaced by Latin, and families were asked to choose a surname for the first time in their lives. Ataturk is as loved and as cherished as our own George Washington. You will see his likeness in every corner of every city and region.

In its 80 years, Turkey has known a great deal of economic hardship while successfully maintaining its complex and rich history of being the most misunderstood nation in the corner of Europe and Asia Minor. Jan Morris wrote, "Neither quite this nor altogether that; terrifically itself yet perpetually ambiguous, Turkey stands alone... formidably on the edge of Asia surrounded in the universal mind, as always, by an aura of mingled respect, resentment, and fear... One treads carefully in Turkish presence. Turkey is no joke."

Hassan owns three kebab shops on the pedestrian zone of Serinyer -- my neighborhood -- with his brothers. I've stopped there for 硹 (chai) twice now. The traditional Turkish tea is served in flute glasses and is also called Rabbit's blood for its deep, red color. Hassan speaks English quite well and has begged me to come to the cafe each and every time that I am bored..."24 hours a day!" I intend to take him up on his offer, but only on occasion, as genuine kindness and a desire for foreign (and female) friends by men tend to be a delicate balancing act. Too eager, and the woman will find that her innocent "companion" is awashed in lustful affection. This is not my first time around the block and I know the signs. Such a friendship ended bitterly and horribly in Ireland and I wish to avoid being put into such an uncomfortable position again. Even if I am bouncing off the tile walls of my flat...

Anyway, the last time, Hassan and I talked about Turkey and its progress or lack thereof. I remind him that it is a young country and that it will take some years before it operates cohesively. I was told gravely and passionately that "Turkish hearts are very good, very warm and very kind." This I know, I tell him, from my experiences in the last week. Even The Fool from Anatalya -- an old men who's lost his teeth and babbles incoherently, which translates to "you are beautiful" -- is gentle and kind, even if he's not "all there". The whole street of shopkeepers makes certain that he is cared for, somehow.

Hassan continued as the Fool wandered away, bored by our discussion. "But, Chrystyna, Turkish government is very, very bad. They are -- how do you say? rotten?" Hassan further explained that the gap between the rich and the poor is excrutiatingly huge. "There is no balance," Hassan expounded.

"No middle class?" I asked.

He wagged a finger at me, his face still very serious and pained, "Exactly." Then, with a sudden flash of a smile and lightened mood, he called to Niger - my favorite waiter -- and ordered more

Neco and I met the first time I came to the cafe. He is sweet, young, strikingly handsome, and a professional server who follows the tourists. He plans to go to Bodrum as soon as the season is ripe. "Very good money!" he nodded as if confiding a big secret to me. But, I have given up waitressing for a lifetime.

Neco also was the first to clue me into the cleverness of wearing rings on my fingers. The first time I sat down to my 硹, he immediately asked where my husband was. When I laughed -- quite surprised by the question --he nodded, again conspiratorially, and said, "Very smart girl. But you are engaged?" I have two gold bands on my wedding finger; one plain and one with a sapphire in it. I was warned about the men by Arzu (who is my director at the school). "They will look," she explained. "But that's it. And if they accost you in the street you tell them you are a teacher at Bilmer. They will leave you alone then. Nobody wants trouble..."

But, I was rather confused that nobody was doing anything really. Until I raised my eyes from the ground long enough to become more aware of my surroundings (the Muslim religion is an enigma to me and I don't know how direct I can be; who will I offend by looking at them. Charms against the evil eye are everywhere in shops too.). When I finally got enough courage to take a look around, they were indeed staring as I walked by. Every one of them. Some made kissing noises, but I have learned the Turkish way of saying the final "No!" You nod your a head a little, click your tounge on the roof of your mouth once and say, "yok!"

That, the rings and my constant appearance on the streets between Bilmer and my flat have kept me out of trouble...

There is an oppressive air that hangs around me; it is heavy and thick in the stench of the dirty streets. It is the awareness of how women are viewed here -- so shallowly. I almost will a bit of a confrontation with a man just so he could get a spirited kick in the pants... but I control myself.

The oppression makes me feel even more confined in this city. Back home, I told a few friends -- half joking -- that I wouldn't mind doing a short, short stint in a jail "just to see what it was like and to write about it". I take that back now. I know what it would feel like...

I'm walled in by these cracking, peeling concrete walls. The tired, tiled floor in my apartment is chipped and residued with the sand and dirt cemented into the corners and along the walls. In summer, I know I will be choked by both heat and the already grimy, polluted air. Yesterday, against my anxiety to always have windows open (even in winter), I shut them all, curtained them, and was able to sleep through the night without hearing the screams and wails of starving alley cats (there's a whole underground of them), the arguing of children, the Tarzan-like cries from the mosques and the incessant honking of horns. I knew I had slept hard and long when the first noise that woke me was the exercise-announcing screamer in the schoolyard down the street. (Schoolchildren go in shifts with a recess every hour and a half and exercises done before the morning class and before the afternoon group).

I was walking down the street yesterday, kept from pulling my hair only because of the fear of being picked up by police as some crazy woman. "Shut up!" I was shouting over the din of traffic. A car was honking at me from six blocks away.

"It's a Turkish tradition," Arzu explained after I asked whether horns had just been brought to Turkey last week and installed into cars.

Turkish or Greek tradition, I don't know, but New York must have been invented by one or both of them...

This morning, as I had my coffee above the bustling boulevard (again, my house is located just a few meters from the school), I envisioned a terraced, green lawn surrounded by densely, grouped cypress. I would have breakfast to the mourning of turtledoves (which I love) and songs from birds rather than foggy radio in passing cars. And I would be in my pajamas and bare feet...
You know that saying, "Everyone should live in New York once and before it turns them hard"? I'm doing that duty in Izmir...

My Classes: Unbelievably polite, my students are. The younger ones, with shy smiles always tugging at their mouths, stand when I enter the room as if I were the Queen of England. It's almost embarrassing -- me, who tries so hard to get down on their level (believe me, it's not too difficult). They're shocked when I act out things, dance about, make funny faces and jokes. I believe, to them, I am unconventional as teachers go... I even pretended to slip and fall to illustrate a point (the word "foolish") and everyone got up, in stunned silence, not realizing that I was play-acting. When they realized what word I was trying to have them fill in from their choices on the board, they burst out laughing over being duped.

My teens --the boys especially -- are swimming in hormones. But they are less direct than my adult males: Whereas the latter just came out and asked me my age, 15-year-old Mustafa asked me what year I was born in. They guessed anywhere from 18 to 25 and would not believe me when I told them I would be 32 this year. My reply to that was, "I don't stand still long enough for age to catch me." The more advanced laughed and translated.

Laughter in my classes are common. And I am usually the cause of it. On the other hand, I sometimes succumb to the antics of the juvenile atmosphere and did so especially during one lesson with my largest class (of 10) who were all 13 years old.

The lesson was about Australia. My students had a cartoonish map in their books which included various points of reference: names of cities, landmarks, animals found there, etc. I had to play a tape during which conversations between two different characters occured. Based on those dialogues, the students were to tell me where the characters were and what they were doing. I pushed "play" and a woman's voice in the second example started. She was panting and breathing, groaning and moaning. The boys began to titter and I made motions to silence them. But as the noises continued growing worse, the woman groaned, "Oh! I'm sooo hot!" The boys fell out of their chairs, bursting with laughter and then the girls began because now I was beat red too and giggling uncontrollably.

Finally, at the end, the woman cries out, "Look! I'm on top!" The rest of the dialogue was lost in the screeching. I was ready to pass them all to a more advanced level...

Then, one very serious girl raised her hand, cautiously, as I wiped tears from my eyes and desperately tried to regain some composure. I finally beckoned her to say what was on her mind. She gave everyone -- including me -- a stern look. "Teacher, they are climbing Ayers Rock."

I didn't dare tell them that my boyfriend had just been there and that they could see picutres of it on the web...

Real Italy: Parma

2008-05-21T13:57:00.001-07:00

You won't easily find a small town like Parma anywhere in the world. Its unique blend of art, history and culture will strike you as soon as you start strolling along the wonderful streets lined with beautiful palaces and old churches or in one of the town's parks. Parma is not just a beautiful town, it is a small jewel where you can experience the same stylish atmosphere and ways of life typical of some of the best European capitals, not to mention its fabulous cuisine!

Altitude: meters above sea level
Nearest airport: MILANO and BOLOGNA
Train connections: easily accessible from MILANO and BOLOGNA
Zip code: 43100
Telephone: dial +39.0521 before the number you want to call

Parma was a Roman colony on the Via Emilia founded by the consul Marcus Emilius Lepidus in 183 BC. In became a rich comune in the Middle Ages and over the centuries it was ruled by the Viscontis, the Sforzas, the French and the Pope. Finally, it was made into a duchy by Pope Paul III in 1545 and given to his son Pier Luigi Farnese. The Farnese family reigned in Parma for almost two hundred years, where they left traces of their grandeur. The town was inherited by the Bourbons in the early 18th century, who gave its court and social life a typically French flavor. After the Napoleonic rule, which lasted from 1802 to 1814, it was decided at the Congress of Vienna that Parma should go to Napoleon's wife, Marie Louise, daughter of Emperor Francis I of Austria. When she died in 1874, the duchy returned to the Bourbons until 1860 when it became part of the Italian Kingdom by plebiscite.

Parma is no doubt an outstanding and renowned art town. Start your visit from the famous Duomo (Cathedral). The Battistero (Baptistery) and the Palazzo del Vescovado (Bishop's Palace) are in the same superb square, which has maintained its original medieval flavor.

The Duomo

The Duomo is one of the main example of 12th century Romanesque architecture in northern Italy. Its facade features three orders of loggias and is flanked by a tall Gothic tower in brickwork built in 1294. The inside is divided into a central nave and two aisles by beautiful columns that also support the women's gallery. The presbytery stands exactly on the crypt and is above the floor level. The walls in the aisles are decorated with some precious 16th century frescoes. In the dome you'll see a masterly composition made by Correggio between 1526 and 1530. On the right wall of the right branch of the transept there is the well-known "Deposition" by Benedetto Antelami (1178).

The Battistero

The Battistero is a unique octagonal building made between 1196 and 1270. Outside you'll see three portals adorned by the statues and reliefs by Benedetto Antelami. They are some of the best examples of Romanesque sculpture in Italy. Inside you'll see remarkable niches, two orders of small loggias and the ribbed dome containing some important sculptures representing the months, the seasons and the signs of the zodiac. Most of the frescoes in both the lunettes and the dome were made in the late 13th century. Right in the middle of the building is a font dating from the 13th century and also a stoup. Right behind the cathedral apse stands the church of San Giovanni Evangelista.

San Giovanni Evangelista

It is a Renaissance church built in 1512 with a fa硤e and a tower dating back to the 17th century. It contains a valuable cycle of frescoes by Correggio (1520-1523) and Parmigianino. Michelangelo Anselmi (1520-21) decorated the ceiling supervised by Correggio. There is also a splendid choir by Marcantonio Zucchi (1512-13) in the apse and a Transfiguration by Girolamo Mazzola Bedoli (1556). Its is worth seeing the Sacristy, with its wooden cupboards carved at the beginning of the 16th century and the Cloisters of the monastery dating back to the Cinquecento. The three cloisters are really worth a visit too. The first is called Chiostro di San Giovanni Abate, the second Chiostro del Pozzo or del Capitolo, the third Chiostro Grande or di San Benedetto. The Chiostro del Pozzo features a portal and two marble mullioned windows made by Antonio d'Agrate.

Storica Speziera di San Giovanni Evangelista

At the back of the Benedictine Monastery is the old pharmacy founded in 1201 and working till 1766. It was restored and reopened in 1959. Its three big halls are decorated with frescoes of the Cinquecento and contain furniture and shelves dating back to the 16th and 18th centuries, full of 192 15th and 17th century ceramic jars and big mortars.

Camera di San Paolo or del Correggio

This is an important and popular place in town. It served as the private apartment to for the Abbess of the old Benedictine monastery. In 1514 it started to be restored and decorated. Correggio worked on it in 1519 and created a masterpiece of the Cinquecento. The chamber is covered by an umbrella vault divided into sixteen webs on which Correggio painted a pergola decorated with lunettes and tondi containing putti. In the next room you can see frescoes by Alessandro Araldi (1514).

Palazzo della Pilotta

The Palazzo della Pilotta is a large building, with three spacious courtyards, built by Farnese between 1583 and 1622, but left unfinished. It was meant to serve as lodgings for the court servants. Now it is an important cultural center.

It houses the Museo Archeologico Nazionale (National Archaeological Museum), the Galleria Nazionale (National Gallery) and the Libreria Palatina (Palatina Library).
The Galleria Nazionale is one of Italy's most important art museums. It contains works by Correggio, Parmigianino, Beato Angelico, Leonardo, Van Dyck, Tiepolo, Canaletto and many others... The building also contains the wonderful Teatro Farnese, one of the most beautiful playhouses in the world. It was rebuilt according to the original 1617 plan in the 1950s, after it had been destroyed during World War II.

Teatro Regio

The Teatro Regio (Royal Theater) was built by Nicola Bettoli and was opened in 1829. In is one of the most important opera houses in Italy.

Piazza Garibaldi

Piazza Garibaldi (Garibaldi Square), right in the center of Parma, dates back to the 19th century. There you can see a monument to Garibaldi, the Palazzo del Governatore (Governor's Palace) and its tower (1673), and the Palazzo del Comune (Town Hall) (1673).

If you have some time left, then go to Fontanellato, about 18 km from Parma. To get there, take the via Emilia heading west towards Milan, then take the provincial road to Busseto and Cremona just after crossing the river Taro.

The Castle at Fontanellato

The center of the village is basically made of the old Castle perched on the rock called Sanvitale, after the name of the family who lived here for centuries. Square-based, the castle is surrounded by a three-meter deep moat still full of water. The halls inside are furnished with pieces of the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries. Although the towers and the square courtyard were originally built for defensive purposes, later they well suited the needs of the court, who embellished the castle. Parmigianino, for example, painted a small hall with mythological scenes in 1525, a masterly work of the Italian Rinascimento.

Parco di Palazzo Ducale

After visiting the town, don't forget to take a walk in the beautiful park of Palazzo Ducale, bought by Ottavio Farnese in the late 16th century and renovated by Ranuccio II in 1690, when a pond and a small island were also added. It was transformed again in the 18th century, when a small temple and some statues were made.

At the entrance to the park stands Palazzo Ducale, built between 1561 and 1564 on a project by Vignola. It was extended in the late 18th century by Petitot. Its halls contain some precious frescoes by Agostino Carracci, Bertoja, Tiarini, Malorosso and Cignani. Presently it houses the carabinieri headquarters (police). Another beautiful park is inside the Cittadella.

La Cittadella

Pier Luigi Farnese decided to have the fortress built in 1546. The works began only in 1591, however. It comes in the shape of a pentagon with five ramparts originally surrounded by water, now replaced by lawn. The inner area is a public park that offers some sports facilities. Don't miss a walk on the bastion.

Real Italy: Finale Ligure

2008-05-21T13:38:00.000-07:00

Finale Ligure is a beautiful seaside resort, where many people like to spend their holidays, both in summer and in winter, thanks to its good climate, lovely beaches and great historic heritage.

The town is actually made up of three different smaller towns: Finale Ligure, Finale Pia and Finalborgo. The first two are right on the coast. Here you?ll like strolling about the many narrow streets busy with shops and tourists or lazing in the sun on one of the beautiful beaches. Finalborgo lies further back inland instead and has maintained the typical atmosphere of an ancient walled town.

The area where Finale Ligure is was heavily inhabited in both prehistoric and Roman times. In the Middle Ages all the land belonged to Bonifacio del Vasto and the Del Carrettos, who made it into a mighty marquisate whose capital was Finalborgo. The marquisate was under Genoese control all through the 14th century. The Genoese rulers had the old port silted up in 1341. In 1469 Alfonso I del Carretto got the title of marquis back from Massimiliano. In 1558 a popular uprising made Genoa lay claim to the marquisate again. This was followed by imperial claims till the Spanish Governor had the marquisate occupied in 1571. In 1602 it became Spanish possession. It was bought by the Republic of Genoa in 1713. Many of the architectural traces of the town's history are in the old Finalborgo.

Finalborgo

The old village of Finalborgo is one of the main tourist attractions in the whole area of Finale Ligure. It was walled in the 13th century, then razed to the ground by Genoa and finally rebuilt.

The old Finalborgo is still encircled by crenellated walls and towers near the two main gates: Porta Reale and Porta Testa. Near to the Porta Reale is the Collegiata di San Biagio, originally a gothic church, then reconstructed in the baroque style. In the large nave and two aisles you can admire some valuable works of art of the Cinquecento and Seicento (16th and 17th centuries). The octagonal bell tower was built on one of the town wall tower in the 15th century.

From the Collegiate di San Biagio you can easily walk to Piazza Garibaldi, the heart of the village, where all the bars and shops are, always crowded with tourists. Not far away you'll find the Convent of Santa Caterina. This grand building was founded in 1359 and rebuilt two centuries later when the two Renaissance cloisters were added.

Today it houses the Town Museum of Finale, which contains some interesting archaeological finds of prehistoric, Roman and medieval times. The attached Chiesa della Superga contains the tombs of the Del Carretto family and a cycle of frescoes of the Quattrocento (15th cent.) Wherever you are in Finalborgo, just raise your head and you'll see the Castle, a fortified complex newly restored which guarded the village in the olden days.

Finale Marina and Finale Pia

Originally two separate villages, Finale Marina and Finale Pia are now practically one town. They are the tourist and business area of Finale Ligure. The heart of Finale Marina is Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, which stands out because of its imposing arch dedicated to Margaret of Austria.

The square and all the narrow streets around it are always teeming with tourists attracted by the bars, restaurants, hotels, boutiques and typical tiny shops.

The square looks straight on to the sea and the beautiful promenade lined with tall palm trees. Here you can walk or just relax in the shade after tanning on the nearby beach.

The old church of San Giovanni Battista, or of the Capuchins, was built on the ruins of an older medieval church not far from the sea.

If you walk beyond Finalborgo, you can get to Perti and visit the church of Sant’Eusebio with its 15th-century Romanesque crypt and further away the church of Nostra Signora di Loreto amidst the olive trees.

Of course the sea is the best natural resource Finale has to offer. It is very clean and the sandy or rocky beaches are wide. From Finalborgo you can go on an excursion into the inland. You can follow the river Aquila through a narrow gorge up to Feglino or Orco or you can reach Mount Melogno, the crossroads between Piedmont and Liguria. You'll probably come across one of the many prehistoric caves on your wanderings.

Real Italy: Bologna

2008-05-21T13:13:00.000-07:00

Bologna lies at the southermost end of the Padana Plain. It is an important industrial, agricultural and trade center and a key road and rail intersection. Bologna is a beautiful city, rich in history and culture. For instance, its university is the oldest in the western world. But the past here mingles with the present, thanks to the entrepreneurial spirit of its people.

It is lovely to stroll under the porticoes that wind for about 40 km around the city center! In the norther part of the city there is a new international exhibition center planned by Japanese architect Kenzo Tange.

Altitude: 54 m
Nearest airport: BOLOGNA Borgo Panigale
Train connections: easily accessible from MILANO, FIRENZE, TORINO and ROMA
Zip code: 40100
Telephone: dial +39.51 before the number you want to call

Bologna was an Etruscan town originally called Felsina. In 189 BC it became a Roman colony with the name of Bononia and started to grow in importance until it became an imperial town. It was damaged by fire under Claudius, then rebuilt and enlarged under Nero, with the addition of some new public buildings. After a period of decadence it acquired new glory under bishop Petronio, who then became patron saint of the city. From the 11th century Bologna experienced heavy economic and urban growth. It was part of the Lega Lombarda under Federico Barbarossa. It is believed the university was built here in 1088, the first in Europe. Dante Alighieri, Petrarca and Boccaccio all were students here. In the 13th century Bologna was at its height thanks to its academic prestige. Later it was ruled by the Viscontis and the Bentivoglios. From 1506 till the end of the 18th century it was under papal rule. Between the 16th and 18th century Bologna acquired its present appearance.

During the Napoleonic period the city became the capital of the Repubblica Cispadana and flourished in the cultural, political and economic fields. For the next 45 years, while papal power was being restored, it played a leading role in the Risorgimento, the Italian movement for independence and unification. Finally, in 1859 the city voted to be annexed to Piedmont and be part of united Italy.

Piazza Maggiore

As soon as you get to Piazza Maggiore, the heart of the city, you'll come across the Fontana del Nettuno, one of the symbols of Bologna. This beautiful fountain, dedicated to the sea god, is the work of Giambologna and was built between 1564 and 1566. The brass sirens and putti at the base were made designed by Tommaso Laureti. To the right you'll see Palazzo del Comune (town hall) built in the 13th and 14th centuries and its bell tower (1444) with a magnificent carillon clock. Three important works of art are on the fa硤e of the palace: the Madonna di Piazza by Nicol򠤥ll'Arca, the statue of Pope Gregory XIII and an eagle attributed to Michelagelo. Inside the building is marvellous and so are its treasures, such as the Museo Morandi.

The square is dominated by the Church of San Petronio. It was built by the Free Comune. The church was meant to be bigger than St Peter in Rome, but the money ran out and the building remained unfinished. The first foundation stone was laid in 1390 as planned by Antonio di Vincenzo. The church was built over several centuries. The semicircular apse was completed only towards the middle of the 17th century. The massive side walls were built with the recycled materials from the nearby demolished buildings. The base of the facade, which contrasts with the unfinished upper part, is characterized by elegant mouldings made of red Veronese marble and Istrian stone.

The middle portal was ordered to Jacopo della Quercia in 1428. When the artist died ten years later it had not yet been completed. The reliefs on it, the Old Testament on the pillars, the New Testament on the architrave and the Madonna della Lunetta, are to be considered as outstanding examples of the sculpture of the Quattrocento. The inside is gothic, with a nave and two aisles divided by 10 brickwork pillars supporting ogival arches. The aisles have 11 chapels each with polychrome window glasses. In the chapels, full of works of art, are the tombs of some of the most famous citizens of Bologna. On the main altar is a monumaental tribune designed by Jacopo Barozzi, known as the Vignola. The sundial on the floor is also worth seeing. The campanile (bell tower) dates back to the 15th century. It stands on the external walls of the last chapel on the right-hand side. To the east of the square, opposite the church, stands Palazzo di Re Enzo (King Enzo's Palace), built between 1244 and 1246. It was here that king Enzo, Frederick II's son, defeated at the battle of Parma in 1248, was kept prisoner from 1249 till his death in 1272.

On the other side of the square you'll see the Pavaglione, a mass of building whose porticoes are a meeting point for the Bolognesi. It is made of two buildings planned by Terribilia: the Palazzo dell'Ospedale della Morte (Palace of the Death Hospital) of the 16th century and the Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio, built between 1562 and 1563. The former is the seat of the Museo Civico Archeologico, which contains Palaeozoic, Etruscan and Roman finds, and of the Museo Civico Medievale e del Risorgimento.

The Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio instead is the seat of the Biblioteca Comunale with its 700,000 books, rare manuscripts and codexes. It is the most important public library in Italy. It was the first seat of the University of Bologna in the 16th century. The walls inside are covered with the polychrome coats of arms of the Italian and foreign students that attended the university. You can't miss the Teatro Anatomico (Anatomy Theater) (1638-49), whose walls are covered with wood panels, statues of famous ancient doctors and figures by Ercole Lelli (1753).

Beyond these splendid buildings you'll find a maze of alleys always full of people looking for the typical products of Bolognese cuisine. You can't miss this area just a few yards away from the marvellous Piazza Maggiore.

The Towers and Strada Maggiore

At a short distance from Piazza Maggiore you'll find the Towers, symbols of Bologna. The Torre degli Asinelli, which belonged to an important local family, was built at the beginning of the 12th century. It is the taller of the two towers being about 98 m. It is open to the public and if you want, you can climb to the top but, be warned, you'll have to climb 498 steps. The Torre della Garisenda dates back to the 11th century. It was lowered around 1360 for fear it would collapse. Not far away you'll see the Piazza della Mercanzia, famous for its outstanfing Loggia dei Mercanti. This is a gothic stone building built by Antonio di Vincenzo between 1384 and 1391. Several old buildings with wooden porticoes look onto the square.

Leaving the towers behind and walking down the porticoes of Strada Maggiore you'll get to Palazzo Davia Bargellini, planned around 1638. Its balcony is supported by two huge stone figures. Inside there is an impressive staircase dating back to the 18th century, the Museo d'Arte Industriale (Industrial Art Museum) and the Galleria Davia Bargellini. Here you'll find 4,500 pieces of local 15th to 18th century local craft, especially Renaissance and Baroque furniture.

Santa Maria dei Servi

Opposite Palazzo Davia Bargellini is the portico of the Church of Santa Maria dei Servi. It was built in the 14th century, with four sides and a central square in front of the church. Thin columns and terracotta decorations distinguish the portico. The church was planned like a basilica and built in 1346. It was later extended in the 15th century. Brick pillars support Gothic vaults. A Madonna by Cimabue is worth seeing.

Santo Stefano

If you walk down Via Santo Stefano, you'll get to the square of the same name lined with porticoes. There are seven churches here all built on the site of an old pagan temple dedicated to the goddess Isis, which make up the Olivetan Benidictine Monastery. The different buildings stand for the sites of Passion of Christ. These buildings were made in the 11th and 13th centuries recycling old materials, partly Roman and Byzantine. Besides the Chiesa del Santissimo Crocefisso, with its 1019 crypt and inscription dedicated to the Roman goddess Isis, there is the Chiesa del Calvario, centrally planned, containing a 13th-century copy of the Holy Sepulchre where the relics of Saint Petronius, patron of Bologna.

The other important buildings are: the Chiesa dei Santi Vitale e Agricola, planned like a basilica, which contains two engraved sarcophagi with the reliquies of two 4th century martyrs from Bologna and the Chiesa della Trinitࠨ13th century). Inside there is also the Cortile di Pilato (13th century) and the Cloister with its loggia on two floors, a typical feature of Romanesque art in Emilia.

San Francesco and San Domenico

Another important religious building is the Basilica di San Francesco, the earliest example of French-Gothic style in Italy. It was built between 1236 and 1254. This building is striking for its vertical rise, the slenderness of its apse and its impressive flying-buttresses. Inside you can admire the splendid marble high altar piece, sculpted between 1388 and 1393 by Jacobello and Pier Paolo Dalle Masegne, besides the Alexander V's terracotta tomb made by Sperandio. Going out of the church, you'll see two campanili: the smaller one dates back to 1260, while the taller one, an example of truly refined art, was built in the early Quattrocento (15th century). Outside, behind the apse, you'll see some pyramid-shaped marble mausoleums dating back to the 13th century.

Piazza San Domenico is cobbled and dominated by two tall columns of the Settecento on top of which are the statues of Saint Dominic and Our Lady of the Rosary. Here also stands the Church of San Domenico, where the Dominican Order was born and where the saint's remains are kept. The church was begun soon after the saint's death in 1221. On one side of its Romanesque fa硤e is the reanissance Cappella Ghisilardi, planned by Baldassarre Peruzzi. Inside the church was restored between 1728 and 1732 by Carlo Francesco Dotti. You'll see some important works by Nicol򠐩sano, Nicol򠤡 Bari, Michelangelo, Guercino, and Guido Reni. The wooden choir is an outstanding example of Renaissance carving. It was made by Frࠄamiano da Bergamo (1528-40).

The convent next door is also worth visiting for its cloisters (14th, 15th and 16th centuries) and library, planned like a basilica, which dates back to 1466. Not too far away is the Oratory of the Holy Spirit built in the 15th century. It is a small building which stand out for its precious fa硤e decorated with terracotta figures and reliefs in shades of warm colors.

The Porticoes

Anyone visiting Bologna, wherever they may come from, will notice that almost every street here is lined with porticoes. Bologna in fact holds the record for having about 40 km of porticoes winding around each are of the city. In the oldest part you'll be able to see Medieval wooden porticoes or marvellous arches from the Cinquecento or Seicento (16th or 17th century). It is lovely to walk around Bologna under the porticoes and look at the windows of old shops or market stalls especially behind Piazza Maggiore.

From Bologna you can easily walk to the Church of Madonna di San Luca on Colle della Guardia (291 mt). Starting from Porta Saragozza you can get to the church following a portico about 3.6 km long, with 666 arches alternating with 15 chapels. This long open gallery, mostly uphill, is the longest in the world. It was built from 1674 to 1739 thanks to private donations in order to shorten up the way form the city to the church.

Every May over the past thousand years the statue of the Virging Mary has been carried down to bless the city and taken back in procession after a week on Ascension Day following the porticoe. The Greek-cross plan Church of Madonna di San Luca was built in 1723-57 by C.F. Dotti. Inside you can see a very old Byzantine icon, traditionally attributed to evangelist Luke. The original church was restored and extended many times over the years.

Real Italy: Verbania (Intra, Pallanza)

2008-05-21T12:47:00.000-07:00

Verbania is the major industrial and commercial centre of the Lake Maggiore, formed in 1939 by the union of Intra and Pallanza. In a beautiful panoramic setting, with its villas, parks and gardens Pallanza is an important holiday resort. Intra is the major commercial port of the lake.

Distance from NOVARA, nearest big city: about 45 km
Altitude: 197 meters above sea level
Nearest airport: MILANO and TORINO
Train connections: easily accessible from MILANO, NOVARA and TORINO
Zip code: 28048 VB
Telephone: dial +39.323 before the number you want to call

Intra and Pallanza

Verbania is a well-known tourist resort on Lake Maggiore. The town became a “commune” in 1939, thus uniting the two towns of Pallanza and Intra. The name Verbania comes from the Latin “Verbanus”, the ancient name of Lake Maggiore. Pallanza dates back to Roman times, while Intra was founded at a later date: the earliest news about it can be dated to the X century. Pallanza belonged to the Counts of Castello, while Intra to the Counts of Biandrate. In the XIII century both towns were under the control of Novara and in the XIV of the Visconti family. All the area around was ruled by the Spaniards from 1535 to 1743, then it was possessed by the Savoia family, with the exception of Intra, which remained in the hands of the Borromeo family.

Pallanza

PALLANZA is such a nice tourist resort that you will be fascinated by its wonderful views, its villas with their gardens and the promenade along the lake shore. The first inhabited centre was located around the Romanesque “BASILICA DI SANTO STEFANO”, which was erected on a pre-existing pagan temple. A votive tablet of the I century A.D. has been found under the bell-tower. The church was repaired in 1601 and underwent radical restoration in 1850 when it was completely decorated with stucco. The most important evidence of its medieval origins are the remains of the ancient Cloister of the Augustians and the nerby “Casa de’ Latti” , which you can see in Via Cietti, where some late Gothic frescoes are still visible.

As it has already been mentioned, wonderful villas can be seen in Pallanza, and one of these, VILLA DUGNANI, built in the XV century and later altered, has been housing the “Museo storico artistico e del paesaggio” since 1914. Under the porch there is the Roman Epigraphic Museum and the Gallery of the Plaster Casts by Paolo Troubetskoy, the famuos sculptor born in Intra (1866-1938) to an American mother and a Russian father. The paintings of the XVI-XVII centuries are shown on the first floor, where you can also see some paintings by Maratta, of the school of Caravaggio, Grechetto, a drawing by Gaudenzio Ferrari and works of the XVIII century, mainly landascapes and portraits. Also some paintings of the XIV century coming from the destroyed Church of San Rocco are exhibited here.

Off the central square of the townhall, built in the XIX century, is the CHURCH OF SAN LEONARDO. The church you see now was rebuilt in 1535 and rearranged in 1801 and 1845. The inside has a Renaissance shape with decorations dating back to the following centuries. The wooden choir is also remarkable. The bell-tower, started in 1520, was finished according to a drawing by Pellegrino Tibaldi.

Not far from the town you can see the Romanesque church dedicated to SAN REMIGIO. It was founded in 1100 and took up in the XVI century. It was a parish church until 1314. Unfortunately, it is in very bad condition. It is made of a nave with an apse and a small aisle on the south side. In the church there are also frescoes of some importance. In particular, there are some XIII century frescoes in the main apse and some XV century frescoes are visible in the minor apse.

At the end of Viale Antonio Azari, just outside PALLANZA, you cannot miss the CHURCH OF “MADONNA DI CAMPAGNA”. Its erection started in the XI century and it was renewed between 1519 and 1527, probably following an idea of Giovanni Beretta from Brissago. Today only the bell-tower and the painting, of the “Madonna delle Grazie” altered in the XV century, belong to the original building. The church has three aisles, divided by stone columns and covered by cross-vaults, and a semicircular apse richly decorated. Also the presbitery and the two aisles are highly decorated in Baroque style. The dome is supported by an octagonal base, featuring an external gallery with balusters and small pillars. The fa硤e is made of stone with a central Renaissance portal (1527), surmounted by a rose-window and two side windows. Inside you can also admire some paintings telling the story of Mary and some frescoes by Gerolamo Lanino dating back to the end of the XVI century. The frescoes of the dome and the presbitery were made by an unknown Lombard painter at the end of the XVI or the beginning of the XVII century.

Intra

Intra is an important industrial, commercial and tourist centre. There is a beautiful promenade with gardens on one side of the street, and hotels, bars and shops on the other side. Here traffic and life are busier than in the peaceful Pallanza, especially on Saturdays, when a very lively market takes place. There is a ferry service from Intra to Laveno.

If you leave the Garden of Villa Taranto and follow the road along the lake you get to INTRA. It is the richest industrial and commercial town of the area. Here there is an ancient tradition of textile industry. During the XVII and XVIII century the industrial development was great and so the old urban shape changed considerably. For example, a lot of rich houses where built in Baroque style, expecially on the streets which go from the lake shore to the parish church. It is worth seeing the De Lorenzo Mansion, in via De Bonis, with its tasteful Baroque decoration. And the Peretti mansion, which stands just outside the town centre. It was built in the XVIII century and it is now in a serious state of disrepair.

The ancient BASILICA OF SAN VITTORE took its grand neo-classical shape after it was rebuilt between 1708 and 1752. It was completely reconstructed and its original orientation was changed. The facade was made in 1830 as planned by Abbot Zanoia. Inside you can see the “Battesimo di Ges?8;, a fresco by Ranzoni, a “Madonna” painted in the XVI century and the “Madonna col Bambino”, a wooden statue of the XV century. All the internal furniture dates back to the XVIII century, and so does the beautiful and well preserved vestry.

Near the parish church, going down towards the lake, there is the CHURCH OF SANTA MARTA. Now in disrepair, it was partially restored in 1593 in the wave of the Counter-Reformation, which Carlo Borromeo supported.

Pallanza

On the coast between INTRA and PALLANZA, you have to see the GARDEN OF VILLA TARANTO, one of the most enchanting gardens in Europe. This botanical garden, of about 16 hectares, was created in 1931 by Captain Neil McEacharn, whose Mausoleum can be visited in the garden itself. He imported flowers and trees from all over the world and planted them here creating a wonderful scenery and beautiful views of the lake. The foreshortenings are perfectly studied and in each season you can admire different kinds of flowers. For example, in April you can see the mimosas and the 80.000 tulips in flower. In May the magnolias, in August the hortensias and 300 different kinds of dahlias besides many others. Every tree or flower has a label showing both its botanic name and its every-day name. There are also fountains with water-plants and greenhouses full of tropical plants. Captain McEacharn donated the villa and its garden to the Italian State. The villa, which is not open to the public, belongs to the Prime Minister and is used for important international meetings.

The garden is open from 1st April till 31st October from 8.30 a.m. to 7.30 p.m., so don't hesitate to buy a ticket and spend some time in an atmosphere of complete relaxation in this heavenly garden. You can also buy one of the plants which are grown here, before you leave the place.

Intra

From INTRA you can start many beautiful walks and drives in the mountains (B襬 Premeno, Pian del Sole, Pian Cavallo) from which the panorama, especially over the lake, is really wonderful.

Real Italy: San Gimignano

2008-05-21T12:33:00.000-07:00

When you'll arrive in San Gimignano and walk through the ancient gates, you'll think the time had stopped many centuries ago. Inside the town-walls everything had preserved its Medieval shape, with the exception of the hotels where you'll find all the modern comforts and the restaurants where you'll taste the best Tuscan cousine with its very good wine.

Distance from SIENA, nearest big city: 36 km
Altitude: 324 meters above sea level
Nearest airport: FIRENZE
Train connections: easily accessible from SIENA and FIRENZE
Zip code: 53033
Telephone: dial +39.577 before the number you want to call

The town of San Giminiano is probably of Etruscan origin. The first legend about the town can be dated back to the Roman period when Silvio and his followers are said to have settled here leaving Roma after Catilina’s conspiracy. Therefore Silvia, the ancient name of the town, probably came from Silvio. The town was later named San Giminiano after St. Giminiano, bishop of Modena, to thank him for helping its people to fight the Barbarians. After the Roman period the town was ruled by the Longobards and according to tradition King Desiderio stayed in the Pesciolini Tower. In 1227 the town had 7000 inhabitants and it was the most important producer of saffron that was exported to Pisa, Lucca, Genova and also to France and the Low Countries. In the first half of the XIII century the most important buildings of the town were erected and the squares, with their fountains, were also planned.

In the XIV century the town developed in trades and enjoyed a period of great splendour in poetry, art and architecture. The plague of 1348 caused the decadence of the town which decided to submit itself to Firenze in 1353. For this reason, San Giminiano lost most of its ancient autonomy even if many artists continued to work there. In the XVI century the town completely lost its prestige and splendour. Here the plague raged again in 1464 and 1631, starting a period of decadence for the town: the town-walls fell to pieces, the Medieval mansions fell into disrepaire and no one had enough money to stop all this, as the richest and most important families had left the town because of the plague. Consequently, the architectural and artistic heritage remained untouched for four centuries.

The layout of the town preserves its medieval plan with the town-walls and the ancient gateways. The older town-walls were destroyed by Firenze and the ones you see today were erected starting from 1262. They are still very well preserved. Nowadays you can enter the town only on foot. We recommend you start your visit at the ancient gate of San Giovanni:

The Gate of San Giovanni was erected in 1262. This gate, surmounted by a guard-room, is characterized by a peculiar segmental arch, an architectural feature typical of the nearby town of Siena.

Through this gate you enter the town and find yourselves in Via San Giovanni, an important street since ancient times. It used to be followed by travellers in the Middle Ages and still today it is full of shops and beautiful mansions very well preserved. Walking down this street you come across the Church of San Francesco on the right side. Unfortunately, only its Romanesque fa硤e still survives. It has a big arch in the centre and two smallest ones on each side, all supported by columns. The influence of the Romanesque style of Pisa is clear.

In Via San Giovanni you can also see many ancient mansions: on the right-hand side is Palazzo Pratellesi, which now houses the Town Library where some XV century books are kept. The building, which was once a nunnery, is characterized by mullioned-windows made of brickwork outside and by precious wooden ceilings and frescoes inside.
Continuing your walk you come across the tall Cugnanesi Tower and the Becci Tower with the homonimous arch, which was one of the gates of the older town walls. Through this arch you enter Piazza della Cisterna.

Piazza della Cisterna (Cistern Square)

This square together with the nearby “Piazza della Cattedrale” is the hub of the town. It has a particular triangular plan that follows the slope of the ground. Its visual centre is the cistern built here in 1237 and enlarged in 1346. On the west side of the square are the Pellari Tower and Mansion and the Twin Ardinghelli Towers. On the other side are the buildings which once belonged to the powerful Cattani family and the Lupi Tower. On the third side are the Cetti Mansion and the Tortoli Mansion with beautiful mullioned-windows and a 'cropped' Tower, i.e. a tower whose top has been pulled down. In ancient times the square was used for open-air markets and popular feasts. Its fish-boned floor made of brickwork is well preserved. From Piazza della Cisterna you can continue your visit in the adjacent Piazza del Duomo.

Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square)

This square contains the most important public buildings and mansions of San Giminiano, which, like those in Piazza della Cisterna, were erected by the richest and most important local families. On the right-hand side of the church is the Town Hall with a tower and a loggia with three arcades. The Town Hall was erected starting from 1288. The loggia was erected ten years later and the tower in 1311. During the XIV century the Town Hall was enlarged and the loggia was decorated. This loggia was never used and in the XVI century it became a porch. It was again converted into a loggia in 1934. A cistern built in 1360 is in the inner courtyard. From here you can go up to the offices and the Museum. On the opposite side of the Collegiate Church is Palazzo del Podest༯font> with the grand Rognosa Tower. On the ground floor of Palazzo del Podest࠴here is a loggia, under which used to be the doors to the town granary. Near this building, at the beginning of Via San Matteo, stands the Chigi Tower, first called Useppi Tower. However, the most interesting and imposing building in this square is the Cathedral.

The Cathedral

This Romanesque building was erected in the XII century and was later altered. This church, first dedicated to San Giminiano, bishop of Modena, was dedicated to St. Mary in 1575, after it had been enlarged. In the church different styles are mixed, such as the Romanesque, the Gothic and the Neoclassical styles. This is not the oldest parish church in town. The oldest one, dedicated to San Nicole was outside the town walls, where the “Ospedale degli Innocenti” was later built. The church was then moved to the present site, where it faces the most important street of the town. The facade you see today was erected in 1239 by Matteo Brunised. It has two doors: women used to enter through the door on the right, while men through the one on the left, called door of San Giovanni.

The large staircase was made with stone from Castelvecchio by Ranieri da Colle in 1299 and remade in the following centuries. The plan has three naves covered by cross-vaults. The inside was remade in the middle of the XV century by Giuliano da Maiano. It is very rich with works of art, like the chapel dedicated to San Fina, which is an interesting example of the Renaissance art in Tuscany. It was made by Giuliano and Benedetto da Maiano in 1468, and wonderfully painted by Domenico Ghirlandaio. In the right nave you can see the paintings by Barna da Siena, representing the New Testament, while those with the Old Testament, painted by Bartolo di Fredi, are in the left nave. Until 1462 the church had a chapel dedicated to a saint for each column.

You can continue your visit of the town by walking down Via San Matteo, the most important street where a lot of Medieval buildings are. On the left-hand side are the twin Salvucci Towers and on the other side is the Pettini Tower. If you walk through the double arch of the Cancelleria, near the homonimous building, you will see the Church of San Bartolo.

Church of San Bartolo

It has a Romanesque brickwork fa硤e, with two orders of arches. It was erected at the end of the XIII century and was originally dedicated to San Matteo. The inside has only one nave without any kind of decoration. If you take the street starting in front of this church, you can go to the Rocca. It was built in the highest part of the town, where the Dominican Convent was, under Florentine rule. The fortification was made of walls 285 metres tall with five big pentagonal towers, in which the guards stayed. The Rocca became a public park in 1978.

Coming back and continuing your walk along Via San Matteo, amongst beautiful and very well preserved Medieval mansions, you’ll get to another town gate, Porta San Matteo, erected in 1262 following the architectural fashion of the nearby Siena. If you don’t walk through the gate but turn right into Via Cellolese instead, you will arrive in Piazza San Agostino, where the homonimous church stands.

Church of San Agostino

It was erected at the end of the XIII century. It has a simple brickwork shape outside and only a big nave with chapels on the same side of the choir inside. The church must have been originally frescoed, but was probably painted after the plague, as this was the custom at that time. The nave is covered by trusses, while the choir and the chapels are covered by vaults. In this church there are some important works of art, such as the altar made by Benedetto da Maiano and some frescoes by Gozzoli. The chapel to the left of the main altar is dedicated to San Bartolo. It is a work by Benedetto da Maiano. Here, under the altar, lie the remains of the saint. The chapel on the right-hand side is dedicated to San Guglielmo. At the beginning of the XIX century the paintings on the two walls of the chapel were brought to light and it was discovered that they had been made by Bartolo di Fredi around 1374. They have great importance in the field of figurative art. On the main altar you can see a great painting by Piero del Pollaiolo, made in 1483, which is considered the best work this great artist ever made. The frescoes of the choir were made by Benozzo Gozzoli with the help of Giusto d’Andrea. They represent 17 stories from the life of Saint Augustine.

In Piazza San Agostino there is also another small church, the Church of San Pietro in Forliano. It is of very ancient origins: it existed already in 1220. It was restored in 1918 when the windows and the rose-window in the fa硤e were opened again and the brick decorations were restored. The inside has one nave covered with a trussed roof. This church is very rarely opened to the public because it belongs to the Diocese of Volterra.

Real Italy: Rapallo

2008-05-21T12:12:00.000-07:00

Rapallo is a beautiful tourist seaside resort. Since the last century it has been considered a fashionable holiday centre where a lot of people like to spend the coldest part of winter thanks to its mild climate. However, it is a busy town all year round.

Distance from GENOVA, nearest big city: 33 km
Altitude: 2 meters above sea level
Nearest airport: GENOVA
Train connections: easily accessible from GENOVA and LIVORNO
Zip code: 16035
Telephone: dial +39.185 before the number you want to call

The town of Rapallo has ancient origins. The first news about it can be dated back to 1240. In that period Rapallo was a Medieval village surrounded by town walls with five gates. It became a Comune in the XII century, but its autonomy lasted for a short period only. In fact in 1229 it began to be ruled by the nearby Genova until 1797 when it became part of Savoy. During the past centuries the pirates sacked Rapallo many times. For this reason, the Castle was built in 1551, after a particularly heavy raid in 1549. Today Rapallo is an important seaside resort and has some small shipyards and maritime engines factories. You must start your visit in Rapallo on the promenade, where, walking among palm and olive-trees, you can enjoy a wonderful view of the whole bay. Facing the town, you see the beautiful coloured buildings housing caffes, hotels and restaurants, while on the other side is the sea, the Castle and the port. The busy tourist port is at the west end of the promenade. The ancient Castle, instead, is at the other end.

The Castle

A few metres from the shore, surrounded by water, is the Castle built in 1551. It was designed by Mastro Antonio Carabo to protect the town from the raids of fierce pirates, who ransacked Rapallo in 1549. Its structure was intended to suit the use of firearms, which were beginning to replace traditional weapons at that time. Originally it had two floors. On the lower floor were the dungeons, while on the upper one was a firing square. It was built entirely in stone with walls that were over two metres thick. Its only external openings were meant for the cannons in all four directions. At the beginning of the XVII century a new floor was added, which served as a new firing square. A tower was also built with ornamental battlements without embrasures. Shortly afterwards a small apartment was built for the 'Captain of Rapallo'. When the Castle was no longer needed for defence it was converted for civil use. It was finally restored in 1964 and today it houses temporary exhibitions. Walking on along the promenade past the wharves, you get to Villa Porticciolo and Casale Park.

Villa Porticciolo and Villa Casale are two beautiful villas amid the nature of Casale Park. From the middle of the XVII century Villa Porticciolo belonged to several well-off families, untill Countess Maria Casale, its last owner, gave both the building and the park to the town of Rapallo. Villa Casale was built by the Spinolas in the XVII century. It has been owned by the town of Rapallo since 1974 and now houses the International Library and the 'Museo del Pizzo e del Tombolo' (the Lace Museum) created to preserve several beautiful examples of local handicrafts. The most interesting pieces come from the private collection of Mario Zennaro, who donated its collection to the town of Rapallo in 1968.

On the way back to the town centre from the park, you can see the long porch of the Oratorio delle Clarisse. It was started in 1633, but it was opened only in 1691. After the nuns left it in 1902, it became the property of the town of Rapallo, which converted it into a theatre where most of the important local events take place. Walking through the arch of the porch of the Oratorio and down a narrow street, you arrive in front of the Church of San Francesco.

Church of San Francesco

It was built in 1519, together with the convent next door. Its parvis is very particular because it is made with white and black cobble-stones following Ligurian tradition. Inside, the church contains a notable wooden Christ by Anton Maria Maragliano, an important XVII century sculptor, whose works are to be found in many churches on the Italian Riviera. Some of them are now also in other European countries and America.

The town-hall is connected to the monumental complex of the Church of Santo Stefano, the Civic Tower and the Oratorio dei Bianchi. Once the building was used to house the Hospital of Sant’Antonio, abandoned in the XV century because of frequent floods. Near the Town Hall is the Oratorio dei Bianchi, which contains an altar made of black marble, besides a painting made in the XVIII century by the Cambiaso school and a precious XVIII century organ. The Civic Tower was erected in 1473. In 1581 it was heightened and the clock was moved to where you see it now.

The Church of Santo Stefano, the first parish church in Rapallo, is the oldest building in town. It was built before the XI century, but the first news about it can be dated back to 1155 when a new parish church, dedicated to St. Gervasio and Protasio, was erected.

The Church of 'Santi Gervasio e Protasio'

This building, standing in Corso Italia, was erected in the XI century and renewed in the following century. Finally, in 1606 it acquired its present structure. The bell-tower was erected in the XVIII century and the facade can be dated back to 1857.

Inside, notable paintings are can be seen: there is a 'Miracle of St. Biagio' by Domenico Fiasella and a 'Deposition' attributed to Luca Cambiaso. Following Corso Italia, you arrive in Piazza Cavour where Via Venezia, Via Mazzini and Via Marsala begin. This is the centre of historical Rapallo. Here was the Medieval village, whose first news can be dated back to 1240. It used to be accessible through five gates, of which only one still survives: Porta delle Saline, giving onto the road to Santa Margherita.

From Rapallo you can take a boat to Santa Margherita, San Fruttuoso, Portofino, Chiavari and Lavagna and experience the unique beauty of the Gulf of Tigullio. Alternatively, you can walk to the Sanctuary of Madonna di Montallegro, founded in 1557. It is 612 metres above sea level. For this reason, the scenery is absolutely marvellous. If you are afraid the walk may be too tiring for you, you can take a cable car. The town of Rapallo is surrounded by the wonderfully blue Mediterranean Sea, the hills behind and Casale Park.

Casale Park is on the east side of the gulf of Rapallo. You can arrive here following the promenade beyond the Castle. The lower part of the park is equipped with some small huts, a pond, a locomotive and also a small wooden fort for smaller children. It is really a lovely place where kids can have a great time. Walking on in the shade of secular trees, you arrive at Villa Casale. From the terrace right on the cliff you will have a breathtaking view of the gulf and the town. It is really a peaceful place where you can relax yourselves.

Real Italy: Pisa

2008-05-21T11:53:00.001-07:00

The town of Pisa is of Etruscan origin. In 179 B.C. it became a Roman colony and in 89 B.C. a Roman municipium. Pisa was an important naval base for the Romans. In the Middle Ages it was an important citt࠭arinara, i.e. a port, just like Venice, Genoa and Amalfi. Each of these towns had both a merchant fleet and a navy, which controlled all the seas around Italy . Pisa reached its greatest peak of splendour in the XI and XII centuries when it expanded its power over the islands of Corsica, Sicily and Sardinia. In addition, it controlled all the Tuscan coast from Portovenere to Civitavecchia. During the first Crusade (1096-1099) its military and commercial power expanded also eastwards and during the XII century some colonies were founded along the same routes followed by the Crusaders. At this time also some small industries developed in Pisa, especially those involved in the processing of wool and leather. In 1162 Pisa became a free commune with its own statutes, and it was in this period that a new architectural style was born. From the XI to the XIV century the arts, and especially architecture, flourished. Some wonderful buildings were erected, such as the Cathedral, with the contribution of great artists. One of these was Nicola Pisano, the greatest Italian Gothic sculptor, who started a school that influenced all the Italian sculpture of that period. In 1284 Pisa was defeated by Genoa in the Battle of Meloria and so a period of decline began, which terminated with the subjection of the town to Florence. Under the Florentine rule of Lorenzo il Magnifico, the town knew a new period of splendour and the urban landscape underwent important transformations. Wonderful buildings in the Renaissance style were erected and in 1472 the University was founded. In this university Galileo Galilei (1564-1642) taught Physics, thus starting an importan scientific tradition that still continues in Pisa today. At the end of the XIX century the town extended outside the boundary of the old town-walls. Pisa suffered from great damages during World War II. The quarter south of the river Arno was completely destroyed. So most of the urban shape of the town, as we see it today, is due to recent development.

Altitude: 4 metres above the sea level
Nearest airport: PISA
Train connections: easily accessible from FIRENZE, ROMA and LIVORNO
Zip code: 56100
Telephone: dial +39.50 before the number you want to call

Campo dei Miracoli

In the square called "Campo dei miracoli", which is one of the most important examples of Italian Medieval architecture, you will see the Cathedral, the Baptistery, the Cemetery and the famous Leaning Tower.According to the Medieval custom of placing the cemeteries outside the town walls, this square lies in a decentralized position off the roads that lead to Lucca and to the sea. In this area there were once some Roman buildings, besides a later Longobard cemetery. The four beautiful buildings that we see today were erected over a period of three hundred years, from the XI to the XIV century. From 1153 to 1163 the new town walls were also erected, encircling the square for the first time. Since a lot of stone was used for the erection of these building, a shipway had to be dug up to carry the stones from the quarries of Monte Pisano to Pisa. It still survives today.

The Cathedral

The Cathedral was built in the second half of the XI century. It is one of the most important examples of Romanesque art in Pisa. In 1063 the navy of Pisa defeated the Arabian one off the coast of Palermo and one year later, with the rich booty, the construction of the cathedral could be begun. It is first of all a political monument which was meant to demonstrate the power and importance of Pisa. On the facade you can still read the long inscriptions celebrating the town's victorious war exploits.The architect Buscheto was the first who worked on this building, which was consecrated in 1118. During the XII century Rainaldo enlarged the church and also made the fa硤e, which is marked by blind arcades and three wonderful portals in the lower part. Above the two minor portals are some precious rose-windows adorned by mosaics of marble and glazed inlays. In the upper part the fa硤e is characterized by four galleries of small arches, a pattern that is continued by blind arches along the side walls. The articulation of galleries and small arches is the unifying element of all the four buildings in Campo dei Miracoli . Both outside and inside the walls are marked by a face of horizontal bicolored fascias. The plan of the Cathedral is a Latin cross and the apse is east-oriented according to Christian tradition. The well-lighted inside is divided into five aisles by colonnades which continue in the large presbytery. Also the transept is divided into aisles by two colonnades. The capitals follow Corinthian and composite forms. The women's galleries, with their mullioned windows of Byzantine origin, run along the nave and the transept. The octagonal dome rises where the nave intersects the transept. It stands on a tambour surrounded by an open Gothic gallery ouside. The church has a lacunar ceiling made at the end of the XVI century. This church, a work of art itself, is rich of precious decorations and works by important artists. You can admire the beautiful marble pulpit made by Giovanni Pisano (1302-11), which is an important example of Italian Gothic sculpture. The paintings were made by Andrea del Sarto, Sodoma and Beccafuni, who were local artists, while the glass windows belong to the Gozzoli's school.

The Leaning Tower

The famuos Leaning Tower is the bell-tower of the nearby cathedral. Its erection was started by Bonanno Pisano in 1137, but it was soon interrupted because the ground began to sink. It was finished by Tommaso Pisano in 1350, after an intervention of Giovanni di Simone. The tower is made of a larger cylinder surmounted by a smaller one containing the bell. The tower shows a first order of blind arcades and six levels of open galleries. A spiral staircase leads to the open galleries and the terrace around the bell. The Leaning Tower has been closed to the public since 1993 for repair and consolidation works.

The Baptistery

The circular Baptistery was begun by Diotisalvi in 1153 and was continued by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano, Cellino di Nese and Mastro Zibellino in the XIII and XIV centuries. The lower order of arcades and columns recovers the identic theme of the nearby Cathedral. The crowning is Gothic with pinnacles and cuspes. The dome has a very peculiar shape. It is made of two distinct volumes: one of conic section, which stands on the women's galleries, and the other of emispherical shape which stands on the external walls. Inside it was ispired by the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem: the conical inner dome stands on a dodecagon, the columns of which are divided into four groups by pillars. In the centre of the radiating pattern of the floor stands the lace-carved octagon of Guido Bigarelli da Como's font of 1246. The pulpit is also noteworthy. It was made by Nicola Pisano in 1260. It represents the transition from Romanesque to Gothic art. Its compact polygonal form, so closely adapted to its surroundings, is comparatively rare. The walls are decorated with scenes from the life of Christ.

The Cemetery

The boundary of the cemetery is marked by a rectangular enclosure made of marble, whose erection was started by Giovanni di Simone in 1278. The legend says that this cemetery was erected exactly where the Crusaders lay the soil they had brought from the Holy Land. Outside you will see some blind arches and two simple portals, the right one of which has a Gothic shape. It used to be the main entrance, but unfortunately it is now always kept closed. The inside is a rectangular area surrounded by a porch, whose arcades were changed from simple Gothic ones into remarkable mullioned windows with four lights between 1283 and 1464. The walls of this porch were decorated with frescoes made by Francesco Traini, an important painter from Pisa, Piero di Puccio from Orvieto and Benozzo Gozzoli, who painted the frescoes of the northern wing from 1468 to 1484. The cemetery also contains several monuments, sculptures and ancient sarcophagi of historical and artistic value, which have been used to bury some important people moved here from the Cathedral. The graves of ordinary people were generally either anonymous or with modest tombstones in the central enclosure. On the 27 July 1944 the American artillery shot the Cemetery roof which entirely burnt down: the girders collapsed and so did the lead covering of the roof. Also a lot of frescoes and sculptures were destroyed or heavily damaged. Most of what has survived is currently being restored. However, it is worth visiting the Museo delle Sinopie where you can see the preparatory drawings for the frescoes, which will help you better understand the work of the medieval artists. Today tourists usually come to Pisa to see the Tower, the Cathedral or the Baptistery. Unfortunately, they know very little about the Cemetery, even though in the past it was the most important meeting place of the town. Local people, but also foreigners used to come here to pray, chat and take a rest.

"Museo dell’opera del Duomo"

The building which houses this museum on one side of the Cathedral Square was the Chapter House from the XIII to the XVII century. Its present structure goes back to that time, when the Diocesan Seminary was transferred there, where it stayed until 1784. It was bought by a private citizen but in 1887 became a Capuchin convent. In 1979 the Cathedral Works acquired it and after much careful renovation opened the museum in 1986.

The works of art on show are all from the monuments in the Cathedral square: there are sculptures dating from the XI, XII and XIII centuries when Pisa was at the height of its power. There are wonderful works by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano e Tino di Camaino and there are statues and busts taken from the outside of the Baptistery. You can also see reliquiaries and several episcopal services. On the upper floor there are works from the 15th to the 18the centuries: paintings by Benozzo Gozzoli, Orazio Riminaldi, Battista Franco and others, and French cloths from the 18th century and 17th century archbishops’ robes. The final section of the museum houses archeological specimens found in the Cemetery.

The San Matteo Museum

The museum is housed in the ex-convent of the Sisters of Saint Matthew, a construction dating back to the 12th and 13th century. The main body of the museum collection is a number of panel paintings with gold backgrounds collected towards the end of the 18th century by the canon Sebastian Zucchetti. They were housed in various places during the 19th century until finally the Town Museum was constituted in 1893. This became the National San Matteo Museum in 1949 when it was moved to its present home. Of particular interest is the fine collection of medieval pottery, some Islamic and some Pisan, and works by the great painters of the 14th century such as Simone Martini, Francesco Traini, Spinello Aretino and many others. Also the collection of sculptures is of notable interest with works by Nicola and Giovanni Pisano and their followers. From the time when Pisa fell under the Florentine domination many of the greatest 15th century Florentine artists came to the city: Masaccio, Gentile da Fabriano, Beato Angelico, Domenico del Ghirlandaio, Benozzo Gozzoli, and they are all represented in this museum. You can also see the gilt bronze bust of St. Lussorio by Donatello and works by Jacopo Rustici and Michelozzo.

Piazza dei Cavalieri - The Knights' Square

The square was designed by Giorgio Vasari, who gave it the characteristic shape of the late Renaissance architecture. It was the ancient center of town. Its name comes from the Knights of St. Stephen who fought against the Saracens. It contains some beautiful buildings. For example, the Palazzo dell'orologio, which was built in the Renaissance period and which includes the remains of a Roman tower. The Palazzo dei Cavalieri was built by Vasari on a pre-existing building in 1562. It was erected to celebrate the order of St. Stephen's Knights.Its curvilinear fa硤e is characterized by a splendid decoration of graffiti and it is preceded by a two-flight staircase. Today the building is the seat of an important university: the Scuola Normale Superiore. On the right side of the Palazzo dei Cavalieri stands the Church of Santo Stefano dei Cavalieri (St. Stephen of the Knights), which was designed by Vasari in 1569. You will certainly be fascinated by its beautiful marble fa硤e built in 1606. The inside is a hall covered by a rich wooden ceiling. On the walls there are flags and trophies which commemorate the glories of the Knights.

The Church of Santa Maria della Spina - St. Mary of the Thorn

The church stands on the bank of the river Arno and takes its name from one of the thorns of Jesus Christ's crown which used to be kept here and is now in the church of Santa Chiara. The church of Santa Maria della Spina, a jewel of Gothic architecture, was built in 1323 on a pre-existing building. The fa硤e is characterized by the three gables and by the arcades which contain the two portals. On the sides the arcade contain mullioned windows with three or four lights. In the upper part you will see pinnacles, spires and tabernacles made by the school of Giovanni Pisano. The inside is well-lighted and is divided into the nave and the presbytery by three arches. As it had been built on a lower ground level, the church was dismantled in 1871 and then rebuilt where it stands today.

The Chartreuse of Calci

It was founded in 1366 and from the end of the XIV century it must have been a sort of permanent building site.In the XVII century the Great Cloister was transformed by the Pisan architect Gian Battista Cartoni and the friar Feliciano Bianchi from Siena. The work was carried out between 1636 and 1651 while the entry vestibule was constructed in 1672.During the following century many artists and craftsmen came here to fresco the church walls, workmen from Carrara carved the marble and renovated the church facade, in 1718 Angelo Maria Somazzi came from Livorno to stucco the church, the chapels and the guest quarters.Also the state appartments, the main staircase, the communal rooms and the boundary were reconstructed and decorated. These works carried out in the XVIII century drew together and unified the internal spaces built in stages from the XIV to the XVIII centuries, integrating them in a dialectical relationship of art and nature, with the space outside.The rich decoration of this buiding involving every detail in its construction, makes the Pisa Chaterhouse one organic and homogeneous unity.Nowadays in the Charterhouse you can visit The historical and artistic Museum which tells of the life of the monks. Although part of the furnishing and utensils were lost following the suppression of the monastries under Napoleon in 1808, those closely connected with the places of worship and entertainment survived.The best of the paintings are to be seen above the altars; one exaple is “St. Bruno offering the Charterhouse to the Madonna” painted for the altar of the main church in 1681 by Baldassarre Franceschini, called “il Volterrano”. Many other works of artistic value were realized and still visible in this Museum of history and art that has been open to the public since 1973, when the monks handed the monastery back to the State, whose property it had been since 1808, when under Napoleon all ecclesiastical property was turned over to the State.The Pisa University Museum of Natural History and History of the District originated in the gallery founded in 1591 by Ferdinand I de’ Medici and annexed to the Botanical Gardens in Pisa. The museum was divided into indipendent sections and the collections were enlarged in continuation by the addition of new exhibits and with increasing amounts of material for Natural History research at the University of Pisa. When the Museum of Natural History and History of the District was founded in 1981, it reunited the old Museums of Zoology and Comparative Anatomy, Mineralogy and Petrography, Geology and Paleontology under one roof, in the portion of the Pisa Charterhouse assigned by the State Properties to the University of Pisa.

The Pisa Botanic Garden

(Click on the image to enlarge) The Pisa Botanic Garden was founded in 1543 by Luca Ghini, a worthy physician and botanist from Croara, near Bologna, after accepting the Chair of Botany at Pisa University from the Grand Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici.The garden had to be transferred in 1591 to its present site between Via Santa Maria and Via Roma, near the Cathedral square. It is the most ancient University Botanic Garden in Europe and today it’s of central importance in all sectors of research and teaching in plant biology and in the conservation of endangered species.Here you can see many plants of great historic and scientific value: a magnificent examplebald cypressThere is also one of the earliest example of iron-framed hothouse built in Italy, to house plants from hot climates.

The Natural Park of Migliarino, San Rossore, Massaciuccoli

This park stretches along the Tirrenian coastline and covers approximately 23,000 hectares. It includes San Rossore estate, Tombolo estate and coltano and Castagnolo farmlands, Migliarino estate and Vecchiano farmland, Borbone estate and Lucca bush land , and Massaciuccoli lake and marshland.At first sight, the park is an immense woodland of stone-pines (Pinus Pinea) which are tipical of the Tuscan coastline. Inside the park there is a great variety of natural settings ranging from dunes to sandy shores and from hygrophilous forests to marshlands.Water, which is the prevailing element in the park, is the real key of comprehension of the area: bogs, ponds, ditches, swamps, channels interlace the woods of decidous and Mediterranean trees, creating a magnificent variety of habitats which attract a lot of different species of animals.Wild birds are plentiful: Lake Massacciuccoli hosts over 200 species of permanent, migratory and nesting birds, such as herons, egrets, wild ducks, moor-buzzards and stilt-plovers.

The fauna resident in the park includes great quantities of fallow deer and wild boars as well as other mammals such the fox , hedgehog , dormouse, badger and squirrel.The flora is particularly interesting and includes many rare botanical species like the sun-dew (a small carnivourus plant), the periploca (an extremely rare liana), the marsh orchird, the pink hibiscus and the Royal or Florinda Fern.The best way to visit the park is to tatke advantage of the guided tours which may be chosen from walks, bicycle rides, horse treks, excursions in horse-driven carriages and in buses. The organized visits include nature trails, tour combining education and leisure and excursion aimed at the survey of historical and architectural emergencies occurring on the estate.You can get here from Pisa taking the SS1 Aurelia road (north of the Arno river).

The coast-line

North and South of the mouth of the Arno (only 9 kilometres from Pisa), the coast-line stretches for miles and miles with wonderful beaches, extraordinarily pleasant for bathing. These magnificent sandy beaches are backed by lovely woods which give the sea-breezes their scent of pine and juniper.The Presidential Estate of San Rossore and Marina di Vecchiano cost occupy the right side, and on the left there are Marina di Pisa, with its nineteenth century appearance, and Tirrenia, two attractive sea-side resorts.

Real Italy: Lucca

2008-05-21T11:23:00.000-07:00

At the height of its prosperity from the Middle Ages and throughout the Renaissance, Lucca, the city of "a hundred churches", has preserved intact the ancient mystery of its streets, squares, palaces and towers. Rich in history, the charming old-town centre is completely enclosed by the imposing, tree-lined, 16th century town walls.

Distance from FIRENZE, nearest big city: 72 km
Altitude:
Nearest airport: PISA and FIRENZE
Train connections: easily accessible from PISA, VIAREGGIO and FIRENZE
Zip code: 55100
Telephone: dial +39.583 before the number you want to call

The first historical traces of Lucca can be dated back to the Palaeolithic period. Afterwards this area was inhabited by the Ligurians, the Etruscans and in the III century by the Romans. In 180 B.C. it became a Latin colony. This was a period of splendour for the town because of its strategic position: the most important roads of the time, such as the Cassia, the Aurelia and the Clodia, intersected just outside the town.

The geometrical layout of the town and the Roman Forum can be dated back to this period. During the barbaric domination Lucca was the capital of the Longobard reign until the IX century. It became a free Comune in 1162 and in the following centuries it knew a new period of riches and splendour thanks to its banking and manufacturing activities and its trades with the rest of Europe and the East. A lot of beautiful and luxury buildings and towers are still today a sign of the prosperity the town enjoyed in that period. In the first half of the XV century Lucca was ruled by Paolo Guinigi who improved its art and architecture: he had some important works made, such as Palazzo Guinigi and the wonderful sarcophagus of his wife, Ilaria del Carretto, which was made by Jacopo della Quercia.

In the XV and XVI centuries the town fought to maintain its indipendence from the nearby powerful Firenze, so new and stronger town walls were erected. The town changed its urban shape completely, as some old buildings and towers were replaced by new stately mansions with towers along the most important streets of the town. In 1799 Lucca underwent the Napoleon rule which lasted for 12 years. The town was ruled by Napoleon’s sister Elisa, wife of Felice Baciocchi. They lived in the Palazzo Pubblico in front of which a large square was opened: Piazza Napoleone. After the Congress of Vienna in 1814, Lucca began to be ruled by Parma. In this period the architect Lorenzo Nottolini planned the squares and the quarters of the town and created the picturesque promenade along the town walls. When in 1847 Lucca became part of the Grand Duchy of Toscana, a period of decay started for the town and ended only with the annexation to the Reign of Italy.

The first thing you will see arriving in Lucca are the town walls which are very well preserved and still today surround all the old town. Lucca is the only town in Italy entirely surrounded by walls.

The town walls

Since the Roman period the town has been surrounded by walls. In that period the walls had a quadrangular plan with four gates. In the XII and XIII century new town walls were erected to include the new quarters of S. Maria Forisportam, S. Pietro Somaldi and S. Frediano. These walls were 11 or 12 metres tall and were defended by towers. The gates of San Gervasio and Santa Maria dei Borghi belong to this period. In the XVI century new works on the walls were started and at the end of the century the walls had the present shape with bastions. In the first half of the XIX century the architect Lorenzo Nottolini began to tranform the walls into the park you see today. So if you visit Lucca you must have a nice walk along the walls.

If you walk or drive along the walls, you will see the gates, which are now six:

Porta San Pietro
This gate was ended in 1566 and was planned by Alessandro Resta who placed an image of St. Peter over the central arch. The two side arches were made only in 1864.
Porta Santa Maria
It was erected with only an arch by Ginese Bresciani in 1593. It was decorated with a marble sculpture representing Mary with the Child. On the sides there are two panthers holding the town coat of arms. The side arch has been opened only recently.
Porta San Donato
It was erected later than the other two: its was started by Muzio Oddi in 1629. It is made of brick and decorated with marble. Porta Elisa was erected in neoclassical style in 1804. It was commissioned by Elisa Baiocchi, Napoleon’s sister, who wanted to open the east side of the town, which had been closed in the XVI century for defensive reasons.
Porta Sant’Anna and Porta San Jacopo were built much later. If you enter the town through Porta San Pietro you can start your visit from Piazza Napoleone.

Piazza Napoleone

This square, dedicated to Napoleon, was realized by his sister in 1806, while she was ruling Lucca. In order to create this square many buildings were destroyed. In this square stands Palazzo Ducale. It was part of a fortress which had been destroyed. Only this building survived and in the XV century it was enlarged by Paolo Guinigi. Since then it has been the political and administrative centre of the town.

In 1578 Bartolomeo Ammannati started its reconstruction: this intervention is still visible in the beautiful loggia that stands in the courtyard known as Cortile degli Svizzeri. This was once the facade. Also the left side of the facade you see today was planned by Ammannati whose works remained unfinished. The famous architect Filippo Juvarra designed the second courtyard. During the rule of Elisa Baciocchi Bonaparte the square in front of the building was opened, just as it had been planned by the architects Lazzarini and Bienaim鬠and the main fa硤e of the building acquired its present aspect. In the first half of the XIX century some important works of restoration and enlargement were carried out by the architect Lorenzo Nottolini. Now you can visit not only the courtyards, but also the wonderful staircase, the Statue Gallery, the Loggia and some of the halls.

Piazza San Martino

This square, together with the nearby Piazza Antelminelli, represents an interesting and harmonious example of urban space. It is characterized not only by the Cathedral, but also by the beautiful fountain, designed by Lorenzo Nottolini in 1832, and the stately mansions, such as the one that now houses the Cathedral Museum, and Palazzo Micheletti designed by Ammannati in 1556.

Duomo (the Chatedral)

It was erected in 1060 and is dedicated to Saint Martin. The facade was made in Romanesque style by Guidetto da Como in 1204. It is characterized by a porch with large arches and three levels of small loggias with decorated balusters, similar to those in the fa硤e of the Cathedral in Pisa. These small columns, which are richly decorated, are made of green and white marble. The upper part of the fa硤e is unfinished. The porch has three doors with wonderful decorated portals. These decorations were made by Guido Bigarelli and Nicola Pisano.
The bell tower was erected in the XIII century.

The church has a Latin plan and the beautiful Gothic interior is divided into a nave and two aisles with a transept of two aisles and a semicircular apse. It is covered by cross vaults. The women's galleries are characterized by ogival arches. This church is rich in works of art realized in different periods. There are paintings by Federico Zuccari, the famous Ultima cena (Last Supper) painted by Tintoretto in 1590, tombs and wonderful sculptures made by Matteo Cividali at the end of the XV century, the statue of St. John by Jacopo della Quercia who also realized the famous and wonderful Sarcophagus of Ilaria del Carretto in 1406. It is the finest tomb ever made for a woman. A marvellous painting by Ghirlandaio is in the sacristy.

In this square you will also find the Cathedral Museum:

Museo dell’Opera del Duomo

It is housed in a mansion of the XIII-XIV century. Its fa硤e is characterized by mullioned windows. In this museum you can see the treasure of the Cathedral and also some interesting works of art coming from the Cathedral and the nearby churches. There are also some important paintings and sculptures by Jacopo della Quercia, Matteo Cividali and many others artists.

Santa Maria Forisportam

Originally this church lay outside the Roman town walls. It was erected at the end of the XII century in the local Romanesque style. Like the Cathedral, this church has loggias in the upper part of the facade. The lower part of the facade instead, is decorated with blind arches which continue also along the sides of the church. The three arcades where the doors open are finely decorated with classical motifs. Above the doors, on the right, are some decorations, one of the XIII century and the other two of the XVII century. The inside has a Romanesque aspect and is divided into a nave and two aisles. The nave and the transept were heightened with bricks in the XVI century and then covered by vaults. Some interesting and precious works are kept in the church, like the main altar and its statue made by Matteo Cividali. The church also contains a sarcophagus dating from the early Christian period, which was later transformed into a baptismal font.

Case Guinigi and Guinigi Tower

These buildings represent a marvellous example of Medieval architecture in Lucca. The 'Case Guinigi' were a group of mansions and towers where one of the most important families of the town, the Guinigis, lived. Paolo Guinigi ruled the town during the first half of the XV century. Today only one of the four original towers still survives and you can visit it. It is 44.25 metres tall and was made with brick, sandstone from Matraia and Verrucano from the Monti Pisani. It was started in 1384. From the top of the tower, where 7 holm-oaks grow, you can enjoy a wonderful view of the town and the countryside. The loggia and the porch on the ground floor of the tower has been closed, and so have the stone arcades which characterized the mansions. Fine mullioned windows are in the upper level of these buildings.

Via del Fosso

This street takes its name from the ditch which runs in the middle of it. It follows the layout of the ancient Medieval walls, a gate of which, the Portone dell’Annunziata, still stands in this street. There is a bridge in front of this ancient gate. On the bridge there is a Neoclassical fountain made of marble on an idea by Lorenzo Nottolini. At the end of the street you can see the column of Madonna dello Stellario erected in 1687 by Giovanni Lazzoni. The town, such as it was in that period, is represented in the base.

The National Museum of Villa Guinigi

This museum was opened in 1924 in the ancient and wonderful villa of Paolo Guinigi, who ruled Lucca from 1400 to 1430. It was meant to be one of the country homes of the Guinigi family in 1418. It is made of brick and is characterized by a loggia with eight arcades on the ground floor and by three mullioned windows on the upper floor. The Museum contains archaeological, Medieval and Modern collections. On the ground floor you can see Roman, Medieval and Modern sculptures and works of art of the Gothic and the Renaissance period in Lucca. Here you can also see sculptures coming from the ancient Cathedral. On the upper floor there are works of art made of wood, which were typical in Lucca from the XV to the XVII century. In the hall there are two wonderful works by Domenico Beccafumi and Pontormo. The garden of Villa Guinigi is very interesting too. It contains 15 statues representing gentlewomen, hunters and countrymen of the XVIII century.

Anfiteatro – Piazza del Mercato

This square (Piazza del Mercato) lies where once was the Roman Amphiteatre. This building, built between the I and the II century, was at that time outside the walls. It could contain over 10,000 spectators. It was covered with marble and decorated with columns. It was abandoned during the barbaric invasions. In 1830 Lorenzo Nottolini uniformed the buildings erected randomly on the site of the old amphiteatre giving the square the plan it has today. Nottolini mantained the buildings of different heights and opened a street giving a unique appearance to this square. The only part of the Roman amphiteatre left today is the arch on the left through which you enter the square. The other arches in the square were erected in the last century.

Via Fillungo
Via Fillungo is the most important shopping street of the town. It runs through the town centre. There are a lot of shops and cafe here, where locals and tourists alike usually meet.

Piazza San Michele

It has been the centre of the town since Roman times, when the Forum was here.
The Church of San Michele, Palazzo Pretorio and Palazzo del Decanato all stand in this square. Palazzo Pretorio, originally called Palazzo del Podest༯i>, was built at the end of the XV century. Its fa硤e features a porch and two large beautiful mullioned windows. It was started in 1492 by Matteo Cividali. In 1589 Vincenzo Cividali enlarged the loggia. Palazzo del Decanato is connected to the church. This building was erected in the XVI century by Francesco Marti on a pre-existing building. The square is enriched also by some beautiful mansions erected in the XIII and XIV centuries in Romanesque and Gothic style. In front of the church is the birthplace of the famous composer Giacomo Puccini. The building houses the Museum and the Foundation which are dedicated to him.

San Michele

The first data about the Church of San Michele can be dated back to the VIII century, even though not much of this building is left. The church you see today was started in 1100 AD and finished only in the XIV century. The facade is clearly Romanesque in the lower part, while the upper part is Gothic, just like the church of San Martino. In fact, the four levels of small loggias of white and green marble will remind of the Cathedral.

The cusp is adorned with a statue representing San Michele, the saint who the church is dedicated to. In the right corner of the facade you can see a beautiful "Madonna with the Child" by Matteo Civitali. This part of the facade was restored in the last century, when it was also enriched with effigies of important men of the time, such as Cavour, Garibaldi and others.

Many of the small columns in the facade have been replaced with copies, while the original ones are now kept in the National Museum of Villa Guinigi. The bell tower rises to the right of the transept. Its top was remade in the last century. The inside of the church has a Romanesque shape and is divided into three aisles by columns. It was covered with trusses which were replaced by vaults in the XVI century. On the first altar on the right there is a wonderful madonna made of terracotta by Andrea della Robbia, and a little more forward there is a painting by Pietro Paolini. You can also admire a work by Filippino Lippi and a precious Crocefisso of the XIII century in the transept. The remains of the VIII century church are visible in the presbitery.

VILLAS AROUND LUCCA

VILLA BERNARDINI

This villa was built between 1600 and 1615 among the green hills of Gattaiola.
Its promoter, Bernardo Bernardini, wanted it to be built according to the principles of elegance and sobriety. Its plain, cubical shape, with a three-arches porch on the front, gives on the whole a feeling of simplicity, with just a touch of refined mawkishness in the group of openings at the first floor. The splendid garden is enriched by rare plants and trees, and by a beautiful lemon house. But the treasure of Villa Bernardini is certainly the amphitheater, dating back to the XVIII century, that offers a scenario of incomparable fascination.

VILLA OLIVA

This villa was built in the XVI century for Lodovico Buonvisi. The very famous sculptor and architect, Matteo Cividali, was charged to built it.
The columns are in the so-called Matraia stone and in an only block; the arches of the open gallery comprise the ground floor and the first floor where the two living-rooms are superposed and passing through attesting the "Lucchese Villas" peculiarity. In the XVII century the villa belonged to the Cardinal Francesco Buonvisi who promoted a consistory in the living room on the villa's first floor in the presence of Pope Alexander VII Chigi della Rovere. The five-hectare park stretches on three levels and comprehends several ponds and fountains of considerable artistic value.

VILLA GRABAU

Situated on the slopes of the Lucca hills, the villa is a wonderful example of 19th century neo-classical architecture. It was built during the 1400s on the ruins of a medieval village owned by the Diodati family, but radical changes were made to the villa's structure at the beginning of the 1800s.
The nine hectare park is one of the most interesting in the Lucca area because of the English garden, with a large number of rare plants, the Box Hedge Theatre, and the magnificent lemon house where are over 100 lemon trees.
Also to be admired are the beautiful white marble statues, the cheerful fountains, the grotesque statues, and the mosaic-decorated fountains.

VILLA REALE of MARLIA

The original building is very old. During the Longobard age it was the mansionry of the Dukes of Tuscia, and later on, of the most important Lucchese families. In 1651 the villa was bought by the Orsetti family, who kept it until Elisa Baciocchi Bonaparte took a fancy to the villa; she forced them to go away and turned the villa into the mirror of her regalness. Marvellous and surprising is the XVII century park, with its "water theatre" , its lemon garden and its "theatre of verdure".
After the fall of Napoleon the Villa Reale had by turns periods of splendour and decadence, that lasted until the beginning of our century when it was bought by the present owners, who undertook its complete renovation.

VILLA MANSI

Villa Mansi is the pride and the symbol of the Lucchese architecture concerning the villas. It stands out from the other villas by its magnificence and by a certain mannerism, almost a sort of baroque. The present look of Villa Mansi is due to the architect Maurizio Oddi who worked on the rearrangement of the preexistent building by appointment of Countess Cenami during the years 1634-35.
Later on there were new interventions that further enriched the villa and most of all the garden. In 1675 the property of the villa went to the Mansi family; they entrusted the great architect Filippo Juvarra with the task of renovating the garden. The whole park was thus transformed by his genius into the perfect scenery of many a suggestive legend.

VILLA TORRIGIANI

The villa and its park sum up all the splendour and magnificence of the lucchese tradition of the country mansion-houses. The long and monumental avenue leading to the villa is all lined with cypresses, and has a pompous gate from where the facade can be seen, so rich and adorned that it seems to be embroidered on the stone and the marble, in a triumph of niches, statues and balaustrades.

The original building dates back to 1500, but it was radically rearranged a century later by Maurizio Oddi, the same architect that had so deeply transformed villa Mansi . The "garden of Flora" is the clearest example of the Lucchese taste, a bright and surprising ensemble of grottoes, nymph temples, flowers, masks play of water …that make you feel as if you were in a fairy-tale.

During your visit in Lucca you can have a nice walk along the Town walls. It will be a relaxed walk in the shade of secular trees from where you will enjoy a wonderful view of the town and the the Appennini, the Alpi Apuane and the famous villas around Lucca. You can also rent a bike and ride along the same route.

Real Italy: Chiavari

2008-05-21T10:58:00.000-07:00

Chiavari is one of the best-known sea-side resorts in the province of Genoa on the eastern Riviera. It has got a busy port and many shipyards too. It is also well-known for its light and refined chairs, made with wood or straw, and its hand-made lace called macrame The beach in Chiavari is large and lovely and most of the houses there are nicely decorated. Thanks to its mild winter climate, Chiavari is a really good place where to spend the coldest months and this is indeed what a lot of people like to do.

Distance from GENOVA, nearest big city: 45 km
Altitude: 5 meters above the sea level
Nearest airport: GENOVA
Train connections: is accessible from GENOVA and LIVORNO
Zip code: 16043
Telephone: dial +39.185 before the number you want to call

Chiavari was the hub of the eastern Riviera until 1727. During the Napoleonic years it was the capital of the Appennine Department, which stretched as far as the Duchy of Massa. After the Congress of Vienna Liguria was annexed to the Kingdom of Sardinia. Later it took part in the unification of Italy. At the end of the XIX century a lot of beautiful hotels were built here and the town became renowned amongst the international high society of the time. Many of the Italians who had emigrated to South America now came back to Chiavari and had beautiful villas and houses built, as a sign of their new wealth.

The town plan is regular, with all the parallel streets intersecting perpendicularly. The town centre is typically medieval, as it features a carruggiu, that is a narrow alley 3 kilometers long lined with porticoes, where the fishing and commercial activities used to be carried out when the sea reached into this area of town. The Gothic-looking porticoes show different and irregular features.

The cathedral

The cathedral is in Piazza dell'Orto. It is a grand building with a majestic arcade added at the beginning of the XX century when the cathedral was restored. Inside you can see some valuable paintings, statues and decorations.

From the square some tree-lined streets branch off: Viale Millo, Viale Arata-Tappani and Corso Genova, where the best houses and villas are, built by the Italian emigrants after they returned home.

Chiesa di San Francesco

The Chiesa di San Francesco is in Piazza Matteotti. It was built around 1200. It is a building of great architectural interest. It was rebuilt in the XVII century and it has been deconsecretd since 1866. You can see the Palazzo di Giustizia (Palace of Justice) in Piazza Mazzini, which is very similar to Palazzo della Signoria in Florence. It was built in 1866 to include the ancient Citadel of 1404. The tower belongs to the original building.

Amongst the many other buildings worth visiting, we recommend the following.
Palazzo della Societࠅconomica, currently housing the central library, the Museo del Risorgimento and Chiavari Portrait Gallery.

Palazzo Rocca rises on a bastion of the old walls. This building belonged to the marquises of Malaguta, the Grimaldis and the Pallavicinos, before being owned by the Rocca family, who donated it to the town of Chiavari in order to be turned into a museum. The big stairs and the park are really worth visiting.

Palazzo Torriglia is a typical XVII-century building, but some of its external features will certainly remind you of the classical architecture of the Cinquecento. It contains a good collection of paintings. Palazzo Marana dates back to the XVIII century. It features an entrance so wide that more than one coach at a time could get through. The balcony is beautiful and stands out on the linear and simple fa硤e.

Not far from Chiavari you can visit the Santuario di Nostra Signora dell'Ulivo on the hill between Chiavari and Zoagli in Bacezza. Half way between Lavagna and Chiavari instead, you can visit the Santuario di Nostra Signora del Carmine.

The name Chiavari means "the key to the valleys", as it lies at the bottom of five valleys: Aveto, Fontanabuona, Sturla, Graveglia and Petronio. Through these valleys you can reach the Ligurian Appennines, where you can enjoy a wonderful view in the shade of dozens of Mediterranean trees like mimosas, magnolias and agaves. In Chiavari you will find many palm-trees and agaves along the seafront, where people like walking and cycling in the refreshing breeze all year round.

Real Italy: Camogli

2008-05-21T10:49:00.000-07:00

Situated on the western Portofino promontory, Camogli is an ancient seaside village in the wonderful Paradise Gulf on the Eastern Riviera. Not too far away from Genova, Camogli is a unique place where the colourful houses give directly onto the old harbor, which is still the center of the village life. If you really want to meet the local fishermen, then don't miss it.

Distance from GENOVA, nearest big city: 23 km
Altitude: 9 meters above sea level
Nearest airport: GENOVA
Train connections: easily accessible from GENOVA and LIVORNO
Zip code: 16032
Telephone: dial +39.185 before the number you want to call

Camogli dates back to pre-Roman times. Later, it was ruled by the bishops of Milan until the year 1000. Its harbor was first mentioned in 1158. The town became very well-known in the last century thanks to its sailing fleet, the largest in Italy. At that time the best villas of the town were also built.

Unlike in many other seaside resorts, time seems to have stopped in Camogli and people there take it easy. This is why the best way to visit the village is on foot. Leave your car just outside the village and then walk down the narrow and steep alleys leading to the seafront. Enjoy the sight of the old fishermen's houses which have now been completely restored. They all front onto the sea and are so picturesque, as they have been painted yellow, pink and red. Their fa硤es are tall and narrow. These buildings now house modern shops, bars and restaurants, but the atmosphere of the old days has not changed.

After walking under an arch, you'll get to the old harbor. Although it is still crowded with fishing boats, ferries and yachts are also moored here. The harbor is shielded by a pier and dominated by the castle and the old parish church at the top of steep stairs.

The church has been rebuilt several times over the centuries, but its Baroque features are quite visible. It contains some paintings by L. Bambiaso and other XVII and XVIII century artists. If you walk further up, you'll get to the castle.

The Castello della Dragonara, whose first foundations date back to the year 1000, is perched on a rock from where you can have a stunning view of Camogli and its harbor. Presently the castle houses the Acquarium, containing all the local fish species, and the "G. Bono Ferraris" Maritime Museum, which contains paintings and model ships from the glorious days. Here you can see the "Narcissus", an English three-mast ship that Mr Bertolotto, a local shipowner, bought in 1880. On the "Narcissus" Joseph Conrad, the famous writer, worked as a navigation officer and wrote one of his best novels, i.e. The Nigger of the 'Narcissus' (1897).

The Abbey of San Fruttuoso lies on the Promontory of Portofino and can only be reached either on foot (see the routes described in Nature) or by sea, hiring a boat or taking a ferry leaving from Camogli, Portofino or Santa Margherita. The local fishermen used to tell of a dragon that breathed out fire and tore apart those who tried to land here. Times have changed and dragons seem to have disappeared, so all you'll find now in San Fruttuoso is a charming little beach, a beautiful abbey and a cluster of fishermen's homes.

The abbey probably dates back to AD 409, when some Spanish priests fled here with the remains of their bishop Fruttuoso, martyred during the Roman persecutions. The first church built here was therefore dedicated to him. The beautiful abbey, its convent and the cloister were built in the XIII century. In the XVI and XIX centuries the original aspect of the complex was altered: the cloister was made smaller by new consolidation walls and the fa硤e was partly altered too. In 1915 the buildings were heavily damaged by flooding. The restoration works began in 1933 and have continued until our days.

In the gulf in front of the Abbey, underwater is the Cristo degli Abissi

The Promontory of Portofino

The Promontory of Portofino offers unique natural scenery. You can walk along the many paths to Punta Chiappa and to the top of the promontory called "Portofino vetta". From here you can then walk down to San Fruttuoso and on to Portofino: the view of the sea from the woods is absolutely gorgeous. The promontory is now a natural park and an important sanctuary for some 700 species. The vegetation is also varied here. There are trees and plants that grow at different altitudes. At sea level there are pine trees, while in the sunnier parts there are typical Mediterranean scrub and tropical plants like agaves and prickly pear trees. In the northernmost and remotest part of the promontory there is mixed woodland with many oaks and chestnuts.

The sea: a paradise for divers.

The seabed around the promontory of Portofino boasts some wonderful scenery in crystal clear waters, which is really heaven for many divers who sail here from Camogli or Santa Margherita. Many of them also come to see the Cristo degli Abissi, a big statue at a depth of 17 meters in the Bay of San Fruttuoso. Even though you are not a diver, you can still see the statue from the boat.

Real Italy: Asti

2008-05-21T10:32:00.000-07:00

The town was founded by the Ligurians and became a Roman colony in 89 B.C. Its name probably comes from the Roman Hasta Pompeia. Under Roman domination the town plan was redesigned so as to take its regular appearance with the streets intersecting at right angle like in a military camp. In addition, the town walls were built.

Asti’s communal institutions can be dated back to the X century. In the XII and XIII centuries a period of great prosperity and intense trade expansion started for the town. The local bankers lent money to kings and princes all over Europe and Asti became the most importan commune of the region. In the XIV century the town expanded and so new walls were needed. While the old town mantained its regular Roman shape, the newer areas were characterised by the rural roads which radiated out into the country through the town gates. In the same century Asti lost its importance and power because of the strife between the important families of the town. It was thus subjected to Amedeo V of Savoia, who gave it to the French king in 1378. The French rule lasted until the XVI century, when Asti was once again under the rule of the Savoia family. From 1799 to 1814 it was under the French rule of Napoleon. At the end of the XIX century the town further expanded and ouside the town walls.

Distance from TORINO, nearest big city: 54 km
Altitude: 123 metres above the sea level
Nearest airport: TORINO
Train connections: easily accessible from GENOVA and TORINO
Zip code: 14100
Telephone: dial +39.141 before the number you want to call

The Church of San Secondo

The Church of San Secondo stands next to the Townhall in the square having the same name. The first church consecrated to San Secondo, the patron saint of the town, can be dated back to 313 AD, and for 400 years it was the cathedral of the town. The church we see today was built between 1440 and 1462 in a local variety of Gothic style. Three portals are on the fa硤e: the two minor portals date back to the XVI century, while the central one dates to the XVIII century. They are surmounted by brick rose-windows and the central one is surmounted by a niche that contains the statue of the saint patron. Inside there are three aisles divided by 12 pillars whose sandstone capitals date back to different periods: from the Romanesque monsters to the foliage of the Renaissance period. Right above where the nave and the transept intersects is the octagonal tambour which supports the octagonal dome.

The presbytery and the choir were built in the Middle Ages but were decorated later in the Baroque manner of the XVI and the XVII centuries. You cannot miss the beautiful walnut seats of the choir, engraved in the XVII century. In the first chapel in the right aisle some parts of a fourteenth century fresco are still visible. Through the stairs on one side of the presbytery you can reach the lower level where the Crypt of the Saint is, the oldest part of which dates back to the VI and VII centuries. In this Crypt, in a niche on the left side, you can see the sarcophagus which contained the remains of the saint until 1597, when they were placed under the high altar in a silver urn.

The Townhall

The Town Hall is in Piazza San Secondo (San Secondo Square) on the left side of the homonymous church. The building you see today is the result of an intervention on a pre-existing building donated to the town by King Emanuele Filiberto di Savoia. This intervention probably started in 1726 following a drawing by Benedetto Alfieri. The white fa硤e designed by Count Alfieri, the gable, the small bell tower, the circular windows and all the other details are very elegant indeed. However, the great simplicity of the whole building will certainly impress you. The only exception is the central part. Here the balcony of the large hall where the town council meets breaks the unity of the whole. The hall was designed by Benedetto Alfieri in a following intervention between 1740 and 1741.

Palazzo Ottolenghi

Palazzo Ottolenghi is in Corso Alfieri, the most important street in Asti. It was designed by Count Benedetto Alfieri, like the Town Hall. It was built for the Counts Gabuti di Bestagno in 1754. The building stands around the two courts of a pre-existing building. In Corso Alfieri you can see the fa硤e divided into five parts by a row of pillars. Each part has three windows with the exception of the central part where a beautiful portal between two columns is surmounted by a fine balcony. The palace was later bought by Jacopo Sanson Ottolenghi, who completed and transformed the inside. The original furniture was destroyed. The present furniture, in Napoleon III style, can be dated back to around 1851. In 1932 the whole building became public property and many rooms were transformed into offices.

The Cathedral

The first stone of this church was laid on 10 June, 1309. This event is celebrated by the fresco on the interior wall of the fa硤e. The building was finished in 1354. Because of the extent of its structure, the cathedral can be considered the most important example of Gothic architecture in the whole region. The Gothic structure is completely preserved while the inside underwent many alterations during the XVII century. The building has three aisles: the nave is 82,5 metres long, while the two aisles are 66,4 metres. The width of the whole building is the same as its height. The original part of the fa硤e in the upper part dates back to the XIV century while the portals date back to the XV century. The grand wooden doors were made in the XVIII century.

On the south side, visible from the square, you can see the campanile and a beautiful portal. The campanile, as we see it today, is the result of the transformation of an ancient tower, which was part of the Roman town walls. Fallen in 1266, it was rebuilt in Lombard architecture and its height was increased. In the XVIII century the seventh floor and the octagonal spire were pulled down. The portal, made in flowery Gothic style, was made in 1470. It is noteworthy for its sculptures and the different materials employed, which are wisely arranged: statues, baldachins and capitals are made of white marble.

The XVIII century saw the lengthening of the Cathedral with the building of the polygonal choir by Bernardo Antonio Vittone. This was a daring intervention for that period, because old bricks were used in order to match the older brickwork. A wooden choir, which you can still admire today, was placed in the new pentagonal apse. Also the Baroque tribunes for the organ and the choir were made in this period. At the end of the XVII century the frescoes that we see inside the Cathedral began to be painted. In order to do this, the two side doors of the fa硤e and some windows were walled and the ogival cordons of the cross-vaults were eliminated. The inside of the building was completely frescoed the way we see it today. Also the high altar in black marble was made in the same period.

The present floor dates back to the beginning of the last century and it is made of stone slabs from Barge. For this floor the level of the Cathedral was raised of about 10 centimetres, as we can see through a grating near the last pillar on the south side of the church.

The Church and Baptistery of San Pietro

The building complex of San Pietro, which lies at the end of Corso Alfieri, the most important street of Asti, consists of the Baptistery, the Church and the pointed-style Cloister, around which are the buildings which used to house the “Ospedale dei Pellegrini” and today are the seat of the Archaeological and Paleontological Museum.

The Battistero di San Pietro, erected in the XII century, has an octagonal plan outside and a circular one inside with a diameter of 14 metres. The octagonal dome, which rises on a high tambour, is supported by eight short columns made of alternating blocks of brickwork and tufa. The capitals are cube-shaped and the bases have octagonal or square plans. A XV century font, characterized by eight small columns of an earlier age, is kept in this building. The Baptistery communicates with the old Church of San Pietro, which dates back to the middle of the XV century. It was built in Gothic style with lancet windows decorated with brickwork and friezes, which also adorn the external cornice of the eaves. This was a parish church untill 1929, when the new Church of San Pietro was consecrated.

The Towers

In the Middle Ages a great number of towers were erected in Asti. In 1682 the medieval towers were 120, but unfortunately only ten still survive. They usually had a quadrangular plan and could be up to 40 metres tall. The most interesting and best preserved towers you can see today in Asti are:

Torre Rossa

Torre Rossa (Red Tower) stands at the beginning of Corso Alfieri, near the Church of Santa Caterina. Torre Rossa, so called because of the colour of the bricks it is made of, is also called Torre di San Secondo because the Saint Patron of the town was jailed in it in 119 AD.

The lower part of the tower has 16 sides and was erected in the Augustan Age, while the upper floors were altered around the year 1000, alternating layers of brickwork and tufa. It is in some way similar to the Towers of Porta Palatina in Turin. For this reason, it is supposed that it belonged to the Roman fortifications. Probably it guarded the entrance to the town together with another similar tower.

Torre Comentina

Going down along Corso Alfieri, on the corner of Piazza Roma, you will come across Torre Comentina, which was erected in the second half of the XIII century. It belonged to the Comentina family, as its name says. It is also called Torre di S. Bernardino, because it was annexed to the Church of S. Bernardino as if it was a bell tower. The church was later completely destroyed. This tower is characterized by Gothic elements, ogival windows, tufa and brickwork decorations.

Torre Troyana

Torre Troyana stands in Piazza Medici. It was built in Gothic style in the middle of the XIII century. It is one of the most beautiful towers in Piedmont. It was annexed to the palace of the Troya family. The tower has a quadrangular plan and with its nine original floors it is 37.8 metres tall. It has mullioned windows on each side, adorned with brickwork and tufa decorations and small ogival arches in the upper part, made with alternating brickwork and tufa. The roof you see today was made in the XVI century.

Real Italy: Aosta

2008-05-21T10:21:00.000-07:00

The town dates from 2900 B.C., when it was only a Megalithic settlement. In 25 B.C. it was conquered by the Romans. It became a military colony holding Emperor Augustus’s soldiers, hence the name Augusta Pretoria. The layout of the town preserves this Roman plan with the streets intersecting each other at right angle. Also the well preserved walls date back to the Roman period. The town went through the invasions of the Burgundians, the Ostrogotes and the Frankes. In 1302 Aosta became a duchy of the kingdom of Savoy. It lost its economic importance in 1560, when king Emanuele Filiberto moved the capital of the kingdom from Chambery to Torino, thus leaving Aosta outside the main trade routes. For this reason, the town didn’t have the chance to develop properly until this century.

Altitude: 583 metres above the sea level
Nearest airport: TORINO
Train connections: easily accessible from TORINO
Zip code: 11100
Telephone: dial +39.165 before the number you want to call

On entering Aosta, you’ll almost certainly come across the outstanding Arco di Augusto. You can start your visit from here.

Arco di Augusto

This mighty building, dedicated to the Emperor Cesare Augusto, dates back to the same period when the town was founded by the Romans in 25 B.C. It was built with local stone and is 11.50 metres tall. On a high basement rise half columns with Corinthian capitals. There are three columns on each side and four on each fa硤e. The trabeation, with its trigliphes and metopes, is typical of the Doric order. Leaving the arch and walking along Via San Vincenzo and then turning right, you arrive at the Church of Sant’ Orso.

The Church of Sant’ Orso

This is the most important medieval buiding of the town. The collegiate church was built between 994 and 1025 by Anselmo bishop of Aosta and was later partially rebuilt before the XV century. The simple XV century fa硤e is characterized by an ogival portal surmounted by a cusp. The Romanesque bell tower, erected in 1131, rises aloof from the church. It is made of stone, is 46 metres tall and has four floors of mullioned windows. The inside has a XV century Gothic shape with noteworthy frescoed cross-vaults. There are three aisles divided by quadrangular pilasters, but there is no transept. In the upper part of the nave, visible from below the roof, are some remains of XI century frescoes.

The wooden choir is a masterpiece by Jenius Brayne, who also worked in the Castle of Issogne in the same years, that is between 1494 and 1504. The policromous glasses of the apse can be dated back to the end of the XV century. In the vestry is the treasure of Sant’ Orso with some wonderful gold works of the XIV and XV centuries. The XI century crypt is also interesting, with its 5 small aisles and 12 columns of Roman origin.

From the right aisles of the church, or a corridor on the right of the fa硤e, you can get into the Romanesque cloister, an architectural masterpiece of the XII to the XV centuries. It has a rectangular plan, 19.50 x 10.70 metres, and in the centre of the court there is an ancient well. It was erected in the XII century with the exception of the arches and the vaults which date from the XV century. Small columns, different one from the other, are surmounted by multiform capitals which support stone arches. These capitals are considered the best example of Romanesque religious sculpture.

Going back towards the square in front of the church, you can see on the right the Gothic Priorate decorated with terra-cotta and dominated by an octagonal tower surmounted by a cusp. Coming back to the main street and continuing your walk you see the:

Porta Pretoria

This gate, through which the ancients used to enter the town coming from Ivrea, was erected in 25 B.C.. Another gate, which has not survived, used to be on the opposite side of the town. It is the biggest Roman gate still surviving.

It was built with enormous square blocks of stone and it consists of two parallel walls and a military courtyard inside. The external wall is 4.50 m. wide, while the inner one is 3.45 m. The walls feature three arches, of which the central one is larger than the other two to let the carts come in.

This gate is now 3 metres underground because of the elevation of the ground. The original level of the Roman street is visible in a excavation of the basement on the southern side. It is very well preserved: only its marble facing has gone lost through the centuries.

On the north side is the quadrangular Romanesque tower, where the noble Quart family lived in the XII century. The ground floor now houses temporary photographic exhibitions. Leaving the gate, on the right, you will see another important testimony to the glorious past of Roman Aosta, that is the Roman Theatre.

The Roman Theatre

It was erected between the end of the I century B.C. and the beginning of the I century A.D. The existing outstanding fa硤e is 22 metres tall. It contains two lower rows of arches and an upper row of windows. Originally this theatre was probably covered and in the cavea some steps are still visible. To the north of the theatre, in the court of the Convent of Santa Caterina of the XII century, are the remains of the Roman Amphitheatre. They are not open to the public.

Coming back to the main street, a little further away is the Piazza di Chanoux which was planned in the middle of the 19th century destroying the ancient church of San Francesco. On this square stands the town-hall: the Hotel de Ville.

The “Hotel de Ville”

It was erected in 1839 where the Franciscan convent used to stand.
On the fa硤e there is a long arcade and in the central part semi-columns support a gable.

The Cathedral

The cathedral was begun in the XI century and renewed in the XV. The ancient Romanesque building is recognizable in the plan with three aisles, the crypt, the two bell-towers and the mosaics in the choir. The fa硤e you see nowadays, with the great arch and the niches on the sides, can be dated back to 1848. In the hall you can see some interesting Renaissance decorations and three portals decorated from 1522 to 1526. The Romanesque bell towers have octagonal cuspes.

Inside, the nave is covered with Gothic cross-vaults and so are the presbitery, the aisles and the radial chapels. The nave and the aisles are divided by rectangular pilasters on which the vaults stand. The floor of the presbitery is on a raised level and downstairs is a large crypt dating to the beginning of the XI century. It has 10 columns, six of which have been reinforced with recycled Roman materials.

The choir is artistically the most important place of the chatedral. The mosaics, made from the XII to the XIV centuries, are noteworthy. In the presbitery you can admire the precious wooden choir carved by Jean Vionin da Semoens and Giovanno di Chetro in 1469. The stalls, with baldachins, are adorned with figures of saints, prophets, angels, men and animals.

In the apse is the sepulchre of Count Tommaso II of Savoy, who died in 1259. The sculpture was made in 1430-35 and is probably a work by Stefano Mossettaz.
In the deambulatory is the “Museo del Tesoro” which holds marble sculptures, gold works and wooden icons. On the northern side of the church is the cloister, whose erection started in 1422 and ended in 1460. It has a quadrangular plan in late Gothic style. You cannot miss it because of its beauty and grace.

The square where the Cathedral is lies on part of the Roman Forum, of which you can see the remains in the enclosure near the church.
Here the remains of an ancient temple are visible. You can go down in a cryptoporticus that winds round the “forum” and is partially under the church.

The Roman Walls

The visit to the Roman Walls is also very interesting. They run almost all around the town and are very well preserved.
The walls were built in the age of Emperor Augustus and make a rectangle of 754 by 572 metres. They are almost intact expecially on the west side where the Tower “del lebbroso” (Tower of the Leper) rises and on the south side where the XIII century Bramafam Tower is. If you arrive by train, you will see the Pailleron Tower just opposite the station.

Fenis Castle

It rises on the right side of the Dora river near the village of Chez Sapin. It is a stone building with two distinct walls with towers and a courtyard inside. The first news about this castle can be dated back to 1242. Many transformations were made at the beginning of the XV century, even if the original structure remained unaltered.
After a period of decadence it became again an object of interest at the end of the last century when it underwent remakings and reconstructions.

The inhabited part like the courtyard were remade in the XIV century, when the castle assumed a representative role. It was always only at intervals inhabited and had scarce military importance. Nowadays only the ground floor can be visited, where the kitchens used to be. Now wooden furniture typical of the region is exhibited here. Also the interesting frescoed courtyard with its wooden balconies and a beautiful stone staircase are open to the public. The living quarters are on the first floor, but, unfortunately, they cannot be visited.

Fenis Castle is open to the public from April to September from 9 a.m. to 6.30 p.m.

The landscape in Aosta Valley is marvelous. The land is criss-crossed by hundreds of streams that flow through the glaciers into the Dora Baltea river. Don't miss one of Italy's best natural parks: the Parco Naturale del Gran Paradiso. This is a very large sanctuary where all the local plants and animal can be found: squirrels, hares, stone martens, marmots, woodpeckers, blackbirds and also eagles.

Real Italy: Alassio

2008-05-21T10:10:00.000-07:00

Alassio lies in the beautiful bay between Capo Santa Croce and Capo Mele on the western Riviera. It has been one of the main international tourist sea-side resorts in the whole area for over a century. It boasts a beautiful sandy beach stretching for over 3 km. You may find interesting the fact that this sand is so fine because it is made of pure quartz.

Distance from SAVONA, nearest big city: 51 km
Altitude: 5m above sea level
Nearest airport: "Cristoforo Colombo" Airport, GENOVA
Train connections: easily accessible from FRANCE, GENOVA and SAVONA
Zip code: 17021
Telephone: dial +39.182 before the number you want to call

Alassio was part of the town of Albenga in the Middle Ages. In the XI century it became a feud of the Benedictine monks that lived on the Isle of Gallinara. It did not become an independent town with its own rules until the XVI century. In 1540 Alassio was free by Genova and so trade developed. After the Congress of Vienna in 1821 it was annexed to the Kingdom of Sardinia. About a century ago the town became a fashionable sea-side resort and began to attract both Italian and foreign tourists.

We recommend that you start you visit in Alassio from the splendid Italia promenade, which runs along the beach, renowned for its fine sand. From here and also from the pier you can enjoy a beautiful view of the bay. All the best hotels and restaurants in town are arrayed along the promenade. In summer don't miss the chance to stroll under the tall palm trees, sunbathe or lazing under a sunshade on the beach!

If you think the sun is not for you, then take a stroll in one of the narrow streets of the town center where the fishermen's houses and the elegant XVI and XVII century houses are. Go window-shopping in the old budello, the busy inner street where all the best and trendiest shops are.

Have a look at the famous muretto, i.e. the low wall covered with ceramic tiles on which you can read autographs and dedications of sports, culture and showbiz personalities. Every year in August a Miss Muretto contest is held, which is when some of the most beautiful girls in Italy show up here. Not far from the Muretto across the nearby gardens you can find the church of Sant'Ambrogio.

The parish church of Sant'Ambrogio dates back to the XI century, but it was altered and enlarged between 1455 and 1507. The current fa硤e was remade in 1896. The interior is baroque. You can see some paintings by De Ferrari, Benso and Castello, besides a 1740 tabernacle.

You can also see many of the works of the Irish painter Richard West's in Palazzo Morteo. West lived and worked in Alassio at the end of the last century and the beginning of the XX century. His works show Alassio as it was a hundred years ago: an unspoiled fishing village. West's house, which gives onto the promenade, is now a hotel.

At the western end of the town stands the Torre della Coscia. The tower is round-based and was built around the middle of the XVI century in order to protect the area called "della Coscia", which was just outside the town walls, from sea raids.

An interesting attraction not far from Alassio, easily accessible on foot, is the small Chiesa di Santa Croce. It stands just outside the town on the ancient Roman road. It was built on the edge of a cliff around the year 1000. The small church was at that time part of the abbey of the Isle of Gallinara and served as a hostel for the pilgrims coming from France and heading for Rome or the Holy Land via the sea ports in Puglia on the Adriatic Sea. Only the original apse and parts of the walls have survived. The foundations of an earlier windmill are also visible.
Another place worth visiting is the Santuario della Madonna della Guardia, a shrine built in the XVII century on a splendid site from where you can have an enchanting view of the sea and the Maritime Alps. Yo can easily get here by car from the rail station.

From the promenade you can have a beautiful view of the whole bay and the Isle of Gallinara. The island was once inhabited by monks, but now it is an interesting natural park. It can be easily reached by boat from the small harbor.

Gourmet Cuisine of Campania: Pasta e ceci, Coniglio all'ischitana, Peperoni imbottiti, Moscalizio

2008-05-21T09:10:00.000-07:00

Campania has an unruly power to surprise you. This is the Mezzogiorno, The South: you might think that given the long-as-possible-deep-mediterranean growing season, the
mainly-volcanic-super-fertile growing conditions, and the never-far-away coastline, the cuisine of Campania would be content to rely on its perfect and varied fresh produce, simply prepared: of course, it's not so...tradition here gives an interesting mix of the really simple and the really elaborate - both extremes inspiring equally purple passion - there's no grey, no intermediate feel to anything here, especially not about food and wine. It's simply essential to eat and drink as well as humanly-possible.

A really great example of how fabulous simplicity can be is the best of the best pizza - when you're in Naples, Ciro a Santa Brigida, Via Santa Brigida, n.73, makes a really wonderful, simple margherita, which you must try before you go on to try all the hundreds of more elaborate versions. Of course pizza is made the world over, but this, this is the real, authentic thing. Pizza crust that is wafery and crunchy, with a tiny hint of yeastiness, tomatoes and mozzarella di buffala, green and glistening olive oil. Simple? Well yes, but impossible to mimic. You can enjoy the life of Naples close-to if you try the Pizzeria Port'Alba, Via Port'Alba, n.18, where the pizza is really excellent, and you can sit outside and be part of the whirl of the city. Naples favours some other delicious but simple dishes, originating in poorer times, but with extraordinarily delicate and subtle flavours, like pasta e ceci, and pasta e cavoli (pasta with beans or cabbage) both of which you can find cooked beautifully at Osteria da Tonino, Via Santa Teresa a Chiaia, n.47.

Some of the best wines that you'll find in Campania come from inland, the Cilento, for example, or Fiano di Avellino, and because they're not as easily found abroad as their more northern alternatives, it's fun to discover their variety by tasting as widely as you can, and Neapolitan restaurants offer a good opportunity to be adventurous. At Ristorante Megaris, Via Santa Lucia, n.175, (part of the Hotel Santa Lucia) you will find another extreme, wherein fabulous fresh ingredients are cooked with a refinement and what might seem, but is not, over elaborate: seasoning - linguine all'imperiale for example - fresh pasta and seafood comes seasoned with curry, just enough to heighten the flavours. Or, Mediterranean fish like orata (striped sea bream), baked with almonds. It makes sense to see these rich, somehow ancient flavours together, when you remember that Naples is a city that has embraced the cuisine of its many, some more exotic than other, invaders. She is a city, for example, with a savagely sweet tooth. Even if you are not a lover of sweet things before you come here, by the time you leave, you will have been seduced by the possibility of endlessly punctuating your strolls at wonderful cafes and bars: at the famously lovely Caffè Gambrinus, Via Chiaia n.1, you can sit in mirrored splendour inside, or be mesmerised by the passing world outside, and try Neapolitan sfogliatelle: pastries of a million delicate folds, filled with pastry cream and amarene, or ricotta; you can be spoiled for choice, and go to Pasticceria Pintauro, Via Roma n.275, - do not be deceived by its comparatively modest interior. Naples still embraces the baroque, and its puddings, pastries and sweets seem to echo the spirit of an artistic and decorative movement in which nothing was too much. For Carnevale, the pasticcerie specialise in sanguinaccio, a thick dark chocolate cream with cinnamon and candied fruit, into which you can dip warm wafers, or soft savoiardi (a speciality at the Gran Bar Rivera, Via Riviera di Chiaia, n.186). At Easter, there are zeppole di San Giuseppe, deep-fried puffs of dough, which would once have been fried on 19th century street corners, and ruffoli, iced sponge-cake filled with ricotta, citron, pistachio nuts and chocolate. An infamous Naples tradition is the babà al rhum, an 18th century French innovation which Neapolitans have made their own - exquisite at Scaturcchio, Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, n.19. and Sgambati, Corso Garibaldi, n.387. At Christmas there are dolci natalizi, pink-painted sweets of royal icing, and struffoli, tiny deep-fried balls of dough, held together with local honey and decorated with rainbow-coloured hundreds and thousands. To end a Neapolitan day and string out the pleasure you could take another after dinner coffee with something sweet at Gran Caffè La Caffettiera, Piazza Vanvitelli, n.10b, or ice-cream at the Gelateria Remy, Via Ferdinando Galiani.

From Naples to Ischia by boat, and another pleasurable surprise: even though it is surrounded by sea, the cuisine here shows the influence of the rugged landscape of its interior - the Macchia Mediterranea, or Mediterranean forest. The most famous dish here is not fish, but rabbit: coniglio all'ischitana, prepared in the traditional tegame di terracotta or earthenware pot, hardly changed since Romans took the cure here, baked in the oven with tiny island tomatoes, thyme, rosemary, basil, marjoram, garlic and chillies. Wild herbs and green leafy salads which grow in the island's fields feature in light soups, such as that made with chicory and beans, and stuffings: inland from the coast you reach Forio, where Da Peppina di Renato, Via Montecorvo, n.42, has an authentic Ischian menu: peperoni imbottiti (stuffed peppers), mozzarella ripiena di ruchetta (mozzarella with rucola stuffing) and a delicious second course of moscalizio (stew with aubergines and peppers). Forio is an excellent place to shop for special delicacies - Antiche Specialità di Ischia (Piazza Matteotti) has sauces, jams, honey, smoked hams and cheese. Bar Elio, Via Schioppa, n.27, has great ice-cream.

From Naples to Ischia by boat, and another pleasurable surprise: even though it is surrounded by sea, the cuisine here shows the influence of the rugged landscape of its interior - the Macchia Mediterranea, or Mediterranean forest. The most famous dish here is not fish, but rabbit: coniglio all'ischitana, prepared in the traditional tegame di terracotta or earthenware pot, hardly changed since Romans took the cure here, baked in the oven with tiny island tomatoes, thyme, rosemary, basil, marjoram, garlic and chillies. Wild herbs and green leafy salads which grow in the island's fields feature in light soups, such as that made with chicory and beans, and stuffings: inland from the coast you reach Forio, where Da Peppina di Renato, Via Montecorvo, n.42, has an authentic Ischian menu: peperoni imbottiti (stuffed peppers), mozzarella ripiena di ruchetta (mozzarella with rucola stuffing) and a delicious second course of moscalizio (stew with aubergines and peppers). Forio is an excellent place to shop for special delicacies - Antiche Specialità di Ischia (Piazza Matteotti) has sauces, jams, honey, smoked hams and cheese. Bar Elio, Via Schioppa, n.27, has great ice-cream.

Another short boat trip and you reach the mythologized Capri. Anacapri is a slightly quieter and just as pretty alternative to Capri Town, and Mamma Giovanna in the piazzetta is a lovely place to lunch, which will not be as overrun as equivalently good places in Capri Town, like La Capannina, Via Le Botteghe, n.14. The seafood here is wonderful, and, of course, wonderfully fresh - calamari fritti share the menu with equally fresh tomato and mozzarella salads and are served with unusual breads flavoured with olives, herbs, fennel or almonds. At Limoncello di Capri, Via Capodimonte, Anacapri, you can buy lemon products including the liqueur itself made with Capri lemons, -particularly good to look out for is the lemon marmalade made only with natural ingredients and powerfully pungent, but not sharp.

From Capri back to the mainland, and the Amalfi Coast. Along this pastel coloured coastline life is lived outside - it seems a crime to miss anything by going inside, wherever you are and whatever the time of day; in Vettica di Praiano, is La Brace, Via Capriglione, n.146, where from the terrace Positano seems like the original picture postcard view. Here you can taste really classic seafood dishes, spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clam sauce) and any number of Mediterranean fish, cooked on the grill (hence Brace, which means grill). The most delicious, brushed with a sprig of rosemary dripping with deep green olive oil, has to be fresh sardines, which when caught that morning and cooked for lunch are... so good they're impossible to describe.

Amalfi, along with Ravello just further along, is the most famous lemon cultivating spot; they feature in almost every imaginable dish: nothing is wasted - juice and skin is used to produce Limoncello, that most Amalfitano of drinks, so light and adaptable that you can drink it as an aperitif or a digestivo, after dinner. Lemons flavour the crema di limone, filling for Amalfi's light profiteroles - even the leaves are used to wrap mozzarella before it is roasted on the grill. The Bar Pasticcieria Savoia, Via M. Camera, n.2, has the most wonderful tartine al limone (lemon tartlets) which are an excellent way to start the day, if you're doing lemons for breakfast, lunch and dinner, but you might allow yourself a detour in the shape of their trecce all'amalfitana (braided Amalfi pastries) with hazelnuts and almonds. At the beautiful Hotel Santa Caterina perched on the cliff, with its own lemon garden, you can even eat your way through three courses of lemons, but actually the very good menu and varied wine list offers you a lot of difficult-to-make-choices. Antichi Sapori d'Amalfi, Piazza Duomo, n.39, is another opportunity to shop for delicacies that you can take home - although it's a good idea never to underestimate how many of each thing you'll need to satisfy friends and your own desire to summon up the memories of this place. From Amalfi to Ravello, and if you can engineer it, sunset, when the colours and the gardens radiate stored up warmth and scents - in combination they are overwhelming. Salvatore, Via Boccaccio, n.2, has a beautiful view, and a varied menu, using only fresh local produce: alici marinate (marinated anchovies), scialatielli (great irregular strings of homemade pasta with a sauce of tomato and courgette) spiedini di gamberoni (skewers of grilled crayfish) and all kinds of wonderful fresh fish, caught every day. The local wines are good enough to bring home, and you can find a good selection at Casa Vinicola Ettore Sammarco, Via Civita, n.9, the whites, Ravello Bianco, and the Rebellum, a fizzy white made with Malvasia and Coda di Volpe are both really good, and the Per'e Palumbo, a red from the grape of the same name, is a lovely, light alternative.

The contrast of simple and complex goes through and through the whole region of Campania: the flavours of citrus, of fresh seafood, of perfect vegetables are constantly reappearing in different combinations. Although it seems impossible, Campania has evolved a cuisine which mirrors its amazing, fertile, beautiful, exotic, passionate, southern self.

Gourmet Cuisine of Umbria: Fagiano all'uva, Palombacci alla ghiotta, Ciriole, Mazzafegati

2008-05-21T09:08:00.001-07:00

Everything grows here. The combination of so many sources of clean, running water, fertile, varied growing conditions and powerful Mediterranean sun from early spring to late autumn, mean that if you plant and tend it, it will flourish. There are heavily wooded chestnut forests, which supply game, wild mushrooms, and Umbria's most famous and delicate white and black truffles. In the valleys there are cattle and sheep - lamb is a particularly popular meat here - and on the slopes, sometimes gentle, sometimes not, are olives, fruit orchards, and vineyards. The lakes and rivers produce an added bonus: plentiful, very fresh and unusual varieties of freshwater fish. One aspect of Umbrian cuisine which is constantly both innovative and typically 'careful' rather than frugal, is the different ways in which produce is preserved - drying, bottling, smoking - all add to the sense that you are often experiencing the rich essence of flavours enhanced and strengthened using preserving methods jealously guarded and passed on.

If you go north to Gubbio, take advantage of the surrounding wild, mountainous area, and try the local game: Fagiano all'uva (pheasant cooked with grapes) or Palombacci alla ghiotta (wild pigeon in a sauce of reduced meat juices, olive oil, vinegar, anchovies, olives, lemon peel, sage, salt and pepper). The slow cooking and rich flavours make these dishes powerfully aromatic, and they are often cooked quite saltily. The most famous mushrooms are porcini, the often-giant boletus variety, but there are hundreds of different edible mushrooms, which are gathered from the forests, and form the basis of both primi and secondi. If you can, pick them up at early morning markets.

The perfect wine with game and all this boscaiolo (forest) produce is the Rosso di Montefalco, made with mostly Sangiovese grapes, but also with some Trebbiano Toscano and Sagrantino grapes. If there is a chill in the air towards the end of summer, dinner outside on a terrace, but with a wood fire burning just inside, is a perfect time to join all this richness together. The Ristorante Federico da Montefeltro, Via della Repubblica 35 in Gubbio, has a menu which takes advantage of all the local hills can give, but also of fresh local vegetables. Try the Vernino Bianco dei Colli Altotiberini, from a good wine list.

Travelling south it is fun to stop off at Bevagna. During the summer festival, here you can sample exotica drawn from medieval recipes: Anguilla al succo di melagrana e arancia (eel with a pomegranate and orange sauce) and a raft of other sweet and sour dishes. For something more typically Umbrian and up to date, visit Ottavius in Via del Gonfalone 4, where the Strangozzi con fagioli (home made Umbrian spaghetti with beans) are especially good, and Agnello tartufato (lamb cooked with truffles) is a really good example of how versatile truffles are alongside so many different flavours. The restaurant is in the cellars of the Palazzo dei Consoli, and has atmosphere to match.

Local wine range from the Grechetto to Montefalco d'Arquata and a good source is the Azienda Adanti (Arquata di Bevagna).

Local olive oil benefits from the wonderful microclimate of Umbria, where fruit can mature longer. Cold pressed virgin olive oil is sometimes incredibly, shockingly green, and its flavor is full of fruit and low in acidity. Oil is an essential base-note in so much Umbrian cooking - in home made pasta like ciriole, rough versions of tagliatelle, and the strascinati - a kind of maccheroni, one of the best kinds is umbrici - great fat Umbrian spaghetti. Olive oil is also the most essential ingredients of so many wonderful sauces which accompany meat and fish everywhere - slowly dissolved ingredients in a base of oil, such as truffles, mushrooms, fresh herbs, dried herbs, dried mushrooms and tomatoes; the oil is the crucial starting point. At Bevagna you can go to L'azienda Petasecca Donati, Via Flaminia 30a, to taste and buy directly.

Just a few kilometres from Bevagna is Foligno, and a good stopping off point is the Albergo Ristorante Villa Roncalli, via Roma 25. You approach through an avenue of horse chestnuts, which hides this hotel/restaurant from the road. Among the good dishes here are the Terrina di gallinella e fave all'olio di oliva (light chicken terrine, with beans in olive oil), and many others that feature game and forest produce - very wonderful Asparagi di bosco (wild asparagus).

Zigzag back across the river Tiber once again and you are in Montefalco, which produces Sagrantino Montefalco. This is a deep, powerful red wine, made almost completely from dried Sagrantino grapes. It is so good with grilled meat, strong flavours, even with seasoned cheese, like Pecorino or Parmigiano, or with puddings and tarts with fruit.

It cannot be avoided any longer. You have to go to Norcia. This is such a great town - where every aspect of food production and preservation is a source of local pride and competition. In fact the name Norcino no longer simply means someone from Norcia, but is now the colloquial word for butcher all around central Italy. All kinds of cured meats are produced here - salami, cured ham, sausages (both fresh and cured), specialist local versions such as Mazzafegati (sausage made with pork liver, seasoned with pine nuts, raisins, orange rind and sugar). At the Hotel-Ristorante Granaro del Monte, Via Alfieri 7, the antipasto della casa has an encyclopaedic selection for you to try - including Prosciutto di cinghiale (cured wild boar). It is not all meat - there is a primo of Fettuccine al sugo di trota (soft fettuccine turned in a sauce of fresh trout). Again, showing amazing versatility in using local ingredients, the Coniglio in porchetta (rabbit rolled in ham and stuffed with fragrant herbs) is another example of how slight variations can change flavours with wonderful results. Norcia is full of specialist food shops and delicatessens, bakeries with beautifully made sweets and chocolates. You can by local honey, oil, beans, the famous tiny delicate lentils from Castelluccio, which specialises in them, pastes for sauces made with herbs, mushrooms, truffles in particular. These are all easy to transport, and are indispensable once you have used them.

It is worthwhile making a detour to Preci, not far from Norcia, where at the Azienda il Collaccio, which also has its own restaurant - Il Porcello Felice, you will find olive oil infused with orange, along with other wonderful perfumery dishes like Trota in salsa di tartufo (trout in truffle sauce). The restaurant uses the products from the Azienda throughout its menu and you can buy them direct after lunch!

Orvieto. The home of one of Italy's most successful wines of the same name. More than half is exported but there are local versions, which are certainly 'kept back' which you can enjoy here. After taking in so much that the city can overwhelm you with, it is so good to stay for what anywhere else might be too long and share a bottle of Orvieto Abboccato, which is slightly sweeter than the famous Orvieto Classico, but still good with the right secondo, or dessert. At Ristorante Maurizio, Via Duomo 78, it is difficult not to have to make a second visit: apart from lamb, and many dishes influenced by profumi di bosco (fragrances of the forest) there is Nodino di vitello al genepro (fillet of veal with juniper). Archives have amusingly revealed that one of Orvieto's most famous influences, Luca Signorelli, who frescoed the Duomo, wrote into his contract that he should be allowed 'as much of that wine known as Orvieto as he could desire'. The Orvieto Classico is a light delicate yellow, and is made with Trebbiano, Grecchetto, Drupeggio, Malvasia and Verdello grapes from the sixteen comuni around the city. Only twenty-two kilometres from Orvieto is Bolsena: famously beautiful medieval town by a lake, which produces wonderful fresh fish, from its frighteningly deep-looking waters. A really special soup - Sbroscia - is made using water from the lake. Otherwise, La Sirenetta, Via Cadorna 10, offers a rich fish menu, including Anguilla (eel, with various sauces, or roast) Filetti di persico in salsa di champignon (fillets of perch with a sauce of button mushrooms), Coregone e trota alle erbe (trout and tench with fresh herbs).

Coming full circle, north to Perugia, there are endless opportunities to taste fresh-water fish at the towns around the Lago di Trasimeno. If your visit is in autumn, you can experience 'Eurochocolate', a festival that magically transforms Perugia into a giant chocolate orgy. There are tastings, exhibitions of chocolate making, workshops and more. Further north, to Cittࠤi Castello, in November, there is the Mostra del Tartufo, an exhibition not just of the most delicate white truffles, but also of so many other of the Umbrian products that we have described.

Umbrian natural ingredients along with the skills and traditions of its people make this area an inexhaustibly seductive location for anyone who loves to share good food and wine. It is an inseparable part of every day life, and brings you into contact with such wonderful, knowledgeable people, that as you sit at your table on a terrace overlooking the green of a mountainside, it all seems too fairy-tale good.

Gourmet Cuisine of Tuscany: Antipasto of Crostini, Salame, Funghi Porcini, Panforte, Ricciarelli

2008-05-21T08:20:00.001-07:00

Tuscany is a huge garden, producing the wonderful fresh fruit and produce for market days throughout the medieval stone and stucco villages that cling to its hills. The ancient traditions of olive cultivation and wine making are still a hugely important part of life here, and make the region prosperous and proud of the genuine quality of its produce. It is this that strikes you about Tuscany - its genuineness.
Cultivators here have always striven for the greatest quality in whatever area they work - genuino is almost the greatest compliment you can pay or be paid - they have always known that the less you add to the simple ingredients - whether to oil or to wine - the better the final result, so there is nothing new here about avoiding noxious insecticides, and making all aspects of production as natural as possible.

Food here is rustic - the very best ingredients, the simplest cooking. Even the smartest Florentine restaurants will have the famous Tuscan bean soup on the menu, a traditional minestrone eaten with pane e parmigiano: honest food, full of flavour and heart. The secret is to slow yourself down. It's completely in keeping with the place and the people to punctuate so much visual overload with a really memorable lunch - something very Florentine that will fortify you - a bistecca alla griglia, doled out by weight, and a bottle of Chianti. Look out for the distinctive different Chiantis - Colli Fiorentini, Montalbano and Rufina. Il Cibreo, via de' Macci 118r, has a very Florentine feel, and likes to finish off its customers for the day by having a fantastic pudding menu.

If your travels take you to Prato it's an excellent excuse for insisting, after another long lunch, on having cantucci, or biscotti di Prato, with a glass of vin santo. Nearby is Carmignano, where the wine of the same name is produced. In an area where red wine is so plentifully available, this one stands out for its very specialised producers, limited quantities, and its wonderful quality. This is truffle country - tartufi with pasta, rice or meat name your dish and it will be brought to the table fragrant with the most recognisable aroma.

On to Pistoia and soft rolling hills where alternating rows of vines and olives mirror the values of Tuscan cooking. Fields of corn provide the bread, the vines the wine and the olives the very best oil. If the heat is rising start the day early but remember not to miss the prima colazione. This important first breakfast (!) should be taken with strong dark coffee - perhaps allungato with grappa, to fortify you for an active day, or lightened with steaming hot milk and something sweet, a pastry or choux bun bursting with fresh cream patisserie. Later, stop for a cold drink and a square of schiacciata, moist literally flattened bread heavily seasoned with salt and rosmarino, delicious with a slice of prosciutto or mortadella.

From Pistoia to Lucca, and streets packed with delicatessens and bars. In the quiet of a warm evening, it is wonderful to eat outside at a table surrounded with vines wound into a pergola. The simplest traditional dishes are best - antipasto of crostini, and salame, if you are there in the season game is rich and local, and the Chianti from the Lucchese cooperatives is the best vino da tavola you can get. If you are feeling adventurous, try the Ristorante Canuleia, via Canuleia 14, where you can find salami di cioccolata on the menu.

Up in the Garfagnana the most passionate local obsession is with funghi porcini, the wild mushrooms that grows in the chestnut groves: only the most skillful mushroom hunters have regular success in finding them, but when the weather has been just right, the very best local dishes feature porcini: pappardelle ai funghi is a wonderfully delicate combination when the pasta is homemade and the funghi freshly gathered. No menu here is complete without a traditional soup, and along the Garfagnana valley you will find soup thickened with farro, a grain only grown in this area. You can sample farro cold too, flavoured with fresh seafood and seasoned with heavy olive oil. If you are a real meat-eater cinghiale (wild boar) is wonderful, richly roasted and served simply in its own juices.

From the Garfagnana to the coast, and some fantastic seafood. At Tellaro, a picture postcard village on the sea, you will find the Miranda, via Fiascherino 92, where just-gathered vegetables accompany the freshest possible seafood, often served with a garlic sauce. Amongst this feast gamberi al vapore con salsa di pomodoro e basilico (steamed crayfish with a tomato ad basil sauce) are perfect. Along the coast you will find restaurants to die for. Try Bagno Annetta, viale Franceschi 23 Forte dei Marmi, open only for lunch or the Bistrot, viale Franceschi 14, which has a lovely terrace overlooking the sea.

Following the river Arno inland, and you reach the area which gives its name to the most famous of Tuscany's wines, the Chianti: the Chianti Classico which is produced all over this area between Florence and Siena is made with Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes, and the Gallo Nero label will only be found on bottles that conform to its strict production regulations.

In contrast, try the wonderful Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Nothing could be dreamier than sitting under a pergola at a cool marble-topped table sharing a bottle of this sun-yellow wine, some fettunta, or bruschetta, made with great oblongs of homemade bread and local oil, and a salty tomato salad. At L'Osteria delle Catene, via Mainardi 18, sample the zuppa medievale (medieval soup) flavoured with local saffron.

From medieval hill towns to Siena: it seems so appropriate that the best wine made in the province of Siena is the famously rich Brunello di Montalcino, which is made only with the Sangiovese grape, and has to be aged at least four years before it is sold; it is a sublime partner to the local pecorino senese, a buttery, luxurious cheese seasoned with olive oil and tomatoes and stagionato for forty to sixty days.

If you can, hold out until you reach Siena before tasting panforte, which is the local speciality along with ricciarelli, light almond cakes. Just outside the walls you will find the Antica Trattoria Botteganova, strada Chiantigiana 29. It has the perfect mix of traditional and modern cuisine - including a souffl頤i gobbi con zabaione e zenzero (a light souffl頷ith zabaione and ginger).

Tuscany is a limitlessly rich area for both food and wine, and its heritage of traditional cuisine - la cucina rustica - combined with the inventiveness of its restaurants and plentiful fresh ingredients, has to be some sort of gastronomic ideal. Buon appetito...

12 Days in Italy: Colosseum, St. Peter's, San Gimignano, Pisa, Vatican

2008-05-21T06:58:00.000-07:00

In June, we spent 12 fantastic days in beautiful Italy. I had never been to Europe before but Susan had been several times. I think all of her trips included some time in Italy. On one occasion she had spent several months there. Needless to say, she was anxious to introduce me to that wonderful country and its wonderful people.

While there, I took a lot of photos (at one point Susan reminded me I was taking a picture of a very plain wall). Not being used to traveling and just a very amateur photographer, I don't believe I was able to capture the "essence" of our trip, but there are many shots of memorable places. Susan and I so enjoyed our trip and now, we would like to present a few pages of our travelogue.

Our journey starts in Rome and then up to Pisa, La Spezia and Cinque Terre. We then moved on to Lake Garda and then to beautiful Venice. After that, we traveled on to Florence where we were fortunate enough to have reserved a room in one of the medieval towers in a nearby Tuscan, village. While there we visited San Gimignano. Our journey ends with a drive back to Rome where we spend another day prior to leaving for home.

Colosseum

Our trip began with a drive to Miami from Naples, FL. We arrived just in time to catch our Air France flight to Rome. Great food, lousy movies. We had a 1 hour layover in Paris. We arrived in Rome, unscathed and with all our luggage intact. That's a good start!

After zipping through customs, we found our car rental agency and postponed our planned pick-up until Monday (the day we were to leave Rome for other cities). We made our way out of the DaVinci terminal (which was no easy task) and located a taxi.

Shortly after our cab left, the driver was enjoined by another taxi driver in his vehicle. Apparently, our driver had "stolen" his intended fares, us. We were suddenly exposed to the full PASSION of the Italian culture. Fortunately, with all the yelling and fist shaking, no one was hurt and our trip to our B&B continued.

Our B&B was located very near the Colosseum area. On arrival we were informed of our fare and we paid in lire. After careful thought, and after the cab had left, we realized we were overcharged. A word of warning, understand the currency before you get there! The B&B was a fairly typical Italian home but no common room.

Because it was later in the afternoon by the time we "settled" in, we spent most of the remaining day around the Colosseum area. Our B&B was in a fairly nice area among many working families. It reminded me of the working-class neighborhood of my youth in Trenton, NJ. The streets were usually busy with some traffic and people walking to the numerous, small shops which abound here.

St. Peter's

We spent most of our 2nd day in and around St. Peter's. It was a very eventful day in Rome. There was a huge parade down Via dei Fori Imperiali (one of the main streets leading to the Colosseum) and all of Italy was enjoying a national holiday, Republic Day. Getting around was a bit tedious.

We really enjoyed St. Peter's. Our schedule for this day was to visit the Vatican but the line had to be at least a mile long! We decided to skip that until our last day of vacation. Getting to the top of the cupola was a definite experience! It took quite a bit of stair climbing and in claustrophobic areas to get to the top of the dome. After reaching the top, the view was magnificent! It was a beautiful, clear day and you could see almost all of Rome.

Pisa

We spent most of this day on the road. Our final destination would be La Spezia where we planned to spend an evening prior to our visit to Cinque Terre. Of course we would have to stop at Pisa along the way. We did not plan on spending a lot of time in Pisa, just enough to see the "Leaning Tower" and the Duomo.

We arrived in Pisa sometime around mid-afternoon and were able to park fairly near the Piazza dei Miracoli. It was a splendid, clear day with very mild temperatures. The area was not very crowded and we could enjoy a leisurely tour of the area. Unfortunately, the tower was not yet open for public entry and were obliged to only view it from the outside. It really is a remarkable edifice and the effort to maintain it's appearance is equally remarkable. You can find the stor of that effort at The Leaning Tower of Pisa - official web site -

After taking the obligatory photos of holding up the tower, we headed on to La Spezia. We arrived sometime in the early evening. Because we had not booked any accommodations here, we had to drive around a bit searching for a hotel. We found a very nice looking Jolly Hotel near the harbor promenade. After checking in we decided to walk around and see if we could find a nice trattoria for dinner. Heading down the promenade it wasn't long before we found one. We ejoyed a ver nice dinner served by a great staff. We then head back along the promenade and found a very nice outdoor cafe along the water where there was a lot of activity going on. There was "partying" atmosphere here and we joined right in. After a cognac laced espresso each, we headed back to the Jolly where we decided to have yet another cognac-espresso.

San Gimignano

Our next to last day was spent roaming the countryside a bit and visiting San Gimignano. Apparently this is a shopping Mecca for many Italians. Our host suggested we visit "San Gimi". As you can probably tell from the photos, we really enjoyed it here! The streets wre full of people but not overly crowded. There was also a medieval "event" with parades and a play in the main square. We would frequently run into actors dressed as knights, vassals, ladies-in-waiting, pages, etc. All in all, it was a very fun day.

This was one of the most interesting places for us to spend our evenings and we like to talk about it a lot. Susan managed to find us a room in an authentic medieval tower just outside of Florence. I would have taken more pictures of it, but the tower was under repair, at the time, and had quite a bit of scaffolding around it. Our window did have a beautiful view of the Tuscan countryside and our hosts were extraordinary. Each morning were were greeted with soft-boiled eggs, fresh prosciutto, fresh melon, and fresh fruit.

On our second evening our hostess directed us to a country restaurant not too far away. It took us several passes over the back roads before we finally found it nestled in a nook quite a distance of the the road. It turned out to be a great place to eat and the atmosphere was nothing short of terrific. The patrons, the restaurant, the staff, the area, and the food all combined into one very memorable evening.

Vatican

Our last day in Italy was to be an eventful one. We left our room in the medeival tower early in the morning and headed back to Rome. Our flight home would leave very early the following morning. We arrived in Rome shortly after noon and we decided to try our luck at seeing the Vatican.

If you have been following along, you might recall our first attempt was frustrated by a (what seemed to be for miles) long line. This time we were fortunate and there was no waiting. However, once inside the crowds were very oppressing. It was difficult to really appreciate the many, magnificent rooms, halls, and art pieces. The Sistine was specially interesting because you were expected to remain silent while in there. Every so often you would hear a loud, double clap of hands followed by an equally loud and long "sssshh". This would quite the crowd down for a while but you could hear the steadily rising din. Quite funny, actually.

I managed to get several nice shots in the Sistine Chapel. It was difficult shooting here. Many of the rooms would not allow flash photography and I did not have a faster film. I had to sneak in the shot of Michelangelo's ceiling because there was NO photography allowed in that particular room.

After the Vatican we decided to find the hotel we had booked while still on the Auto Strasa. Now the fun really started! I had to drive through the center of Rome to get there. I don't know if you have ever driven through Rome, but it is an absolute mad-house. You have to completely ignore the traffic signs & lights in some areas because everyone (and I do mean everyone) else does. With Susan as my co-pilot and navigator, we made it through unscathed. There were many harrowing incidents along the way.

When we finally arrived at our hotel, poor Susan would not leave the safety of the car! We had not researched this last hotel and it was in what appeared to be, a very distasteful area. I had to agree with Susan. Because it was already getting late and we would have no opportunity to see more of Rome, we decided to head towards the airport and try our luck at finding a room near there.

We headed to the airport and stopped to fill up with fuel just near there. A helpful attendant directed us to a nearby coastal city with plenty of hotels. Once there we did find a very nice room at a reasonable rate. We were one block from the beach and enjoyed a wonderful walk and then a very nice dinner overlooking the beach and waves.

After a much too short evening sleep, we awoke and gathered our luggage together for the last time. Then, panic set in! I could not find the car keys! Oh! No! Well, Susan managed to keep me calm while we systematically searched through our room and then our belongings. The keys were finally found and we rushed out to the airport.

The flight home was long and uneventful but we now carried with us numerous, good memories of a wonderful vacation. I definitely want to go back again. It was a fantastic experience!

Holiday in Zakynthos

2008-05-19T17:08:00.001-07:00

This time, I was using the technology to my advantage - I found online numerous details about the Caravelle hotel, together with pictures (far better than anything the travel agent had been able to provide and the hotel seemed idyllic) and booked it.

A few weeks before we were due to go we had the dreaded letter from the travel agent "...there may be some building work...".

Having obtained the hotel’s telephone number from the web, I telephoned the hotel!

"Milate Anglikia parakolo?"

"Neh" - quickly followed by "Yes"

Thank goodness, I asked about the building work only to be re-assured that this finished some time ago and everything was OK and they would ensure we had a good room.

We duly arrived some weeks later about 8.00pm and surprisingly the receptionist remembered the phone call, she made profuse apologies about the room we would have for that night, advised us not to unpack and tomorrow she would arrange to have us transferred to a better room.

Sure enough, the next morning on our way to breakfast, the receptionist told us to go and enjoy ourselves, she would arrange for the luggage to be moved. When we subsequently got to the room, it was superb - a sea view, a bottle of wine, some fruit and flowers awaited us - well done Caravelle.

The following morning we awoke to a beautiful sunrise.

Yes - I know it looks like a sunset but believe me is was a sunrise -I hadn’t got to the Ouzo yet !

Also, as we sat on the balcony watching the sunrise, we were ‘buzzed’ by the local inhabitant feeding her young above us, whilst this was delightful to watch, it also meant that we had to be careful where we sat !

During our stay at the hotel, we were treated to the traditional Greek dancing and Greek music - truly wonderful and intoxicating in more ways than one !

According to Fiona the local red wine was having no effect as she started her second bottle - despite my warnings she finished the second bottle - oh well we all have to learn !!

Whilst in Zakynthos we decided to rent a car and explore inland, having heard about a village - Volimes. As we drove into the outskirts of Volimes, we noticed a small house on the right with scores of rugs and lace tablecloths, we pulled in and tried our best to hold a conversation with a dear old lady- we managed in typical tourist fashion, but decided to continue into Volimes, figuring we would be able to negotiate a better deal!

When we entered Volimes, what a sight - whilst only a two main street village, virtually every house was adorned with colourful towels, rugs, tablecloths, leather belts and a host of other items. Everywhere we went we were met with traders anxious to do a deal. Having seen one particular item we liked, we tried to get the price down to a price that suited us - no joy - we wandered off, only to be pursued by the lad’s mother offering us the item for the price we were prepared to pay !

We could hear the strains of Zorba playing somewhere and as we rounded the corner we were confronted by a donkey (the donkey’s the one on the right !)

Needless to say, the donkey achieved the desired result - we were lured into the web - Fiona stopped to stroke the donkey and sure enough the spider local trader pounced ! - We were captured !

He danced the Hasapico with Fiona to the strains of Zorba, persuaded her to have her picture taken on his donkey and invited us to his lair warehouse - where - needless to say he relieved us of a number of drachmas. Don’t get the wrong impression - we thoroughly enjoyed every minute - he was great -if any of his friends come across this page, please get him to drop us an E-mail. We still have the tablecloths and chair covers and still think they were a bargain.

Remember the old lady on the way in ? We stopped on the way back out and bought the tablecloth without too much haggling - we hadn’t the heart to knock her price down too much (some stories have to have a happy ending !)

As I mentioned, this was now our third trip to the Greek Isles and Fiona had decided it was time for me to get some culture instead of beach bumming - we duly booked a trip to Olympia.

A coach and ferry trip and we were in Olympia. As we strolled down the main street the first thing that struck us was the number of high class jewellers - we were enticed into a shop by a charming guy, but I managed to resist - only to be caught further down the street by an older lady offering orange juice and air-conditioning, I came out with a gold chain and �250 less in my wallet !!

On to the site of the original Olympics - I was captivated - and me a Luddite ! There is so much to see and so much to absorb that I could not do it justice here - and I’m the one who told the teacher that someone had to come bottom in History !

DON’T MISS IT !!!

I might get round to doing a separate page on Olympia from a tourist perspective - watch this space !

Back to the hotel, on the night before we left a traveling music and dance troupe descended upon the hotel and we were treated to a magical evening of dance and delicate singing. The costumes were magnificent and the music enchanting - if anyone recognizes the group from the photographs - please let me know where I can get a CD of their songs.

What can you say about Zakynthos (Zante), it’s a typical Greek island; a lush green envelopes the island, the seas really are as blue as the picture postcards, there are numerous sandy beaches and secluded coves, there is much to see and explore - in fact we took double the amount of photo’s on this holiday and I could easily have doubled the length of this travelogue.

Verdict - Zakynthos - well worth a visit

And finally the local Mafia at the Caravelle Hotel enjoying their moment - after having conned me into thinking I was sharing a Tequila slammer with them - only to knock back in one swig, a glass of cold water!
Wherever we’ve been in Greece, we always find warm, friendly people enjoying life to the full - that’s why we go back year after year.

Holiday in Skiathos

2008-05-19T16:50:00.000-07:00

We flew from the UK directly into Skiathos - our first experience of Greece, having wanted to sample Greece for some years. How well I remember the blast of heat and the magnificent blue skies as we got off the plane - glorious!

A short bus ride to our accommodation in Platanias - we had decided to go self catering - and our first paddle in the Aegean. I could not believe how crystal clear the water was (UK residents will understand!) The unusual sanitary arrangements in the accommodation were a very small price to pay for such crystal clear water in which to swim.

Rather than travel far our first evening, we decided to eat at the local tavern and were warmly welcomed by Kostsos and Kristos. The food was superb but the traveling had made Fiona unwell and she was unable to finish her meal - no problem - no charge - in fact more concern as to my wife’s health - to cut a long story short we had many enjoyable times here subsequently both in ‘03 and ‘06. Yia sas Kostos & Kristos -here’s hoping we meet again.

This year I had persuaded Fiona that I wanted to "beach-bum" (spend my days lying in the sun on the beach and going for a swim to cool down). The local beach (4 minutes walk from the accommodation) was no disappointment: plenty of sun beds & shades, a tavern on the beach playing Joe Cocker and serving delightful fresh fish dishes (sadly this was closed but hopefully has been resurrected -no matter - there were other taverns on the beach). Sunbathe, a swim to cool down, an Ouzo at the taverna and a stroll along the beach - what more can anyone want.

The following morning we decided to use the inexpensive, frequent bus service into Skiathos town to explore, on this occasion the buses were reasonably empty - at night it was a different story - a bus would pull up with numerous people already standing (in the UK anymore than 8 standing and the bus would not have stopped) "move along, move along" however they say that in Greek and we were aboard - only to stop at a number of other stops and marvel at how many people would fit on one bus. After this experience we had no qualms about waiting for a bus - in fact we quite looked forward to it even though the local taxis (all Mercedes) were very reasonable.

We would send most of our evenings in Skiathos town, meandering around the back streets just off Papadiamantis St and then stroll along the harbor past the numerous restaurants and shops. At night we would find a variety of street traders, one painting local scenes on greetings cards to send home, one making jewelery - somehow twisting your name into an intricate design with stainless steel wire, one engraving your name on a grain of rice, one selling local caught sponges etc. How we loved to haggle and practise our new found Greek with the sponge trader -he was very good - and we still have the sponges some years later !

We would then be spoilt for choice as to where to eat, but we were never disappointed.

One of the things we loved about Skiathos was the frequent bus service along the south of the island, enabling us to try many of the beautiful sandy beaches along the coast. It was probably because of this and the very good taxi service that we never rented a car and did not get to see inland.

During the holiday we took one of the many excursions to neighboring islands, this particular one was to Skopelos. Even waiting for the ferry was an enjoyable experience - watching the many boats arriving and also the planes landing and taking off.

We took the Flying Dolphins ferry and arrived on the east coast of Skopelos in no time at all.

Unfortunately, because of the language barrier we did not understand what they said and immediately got off ! The absence of any bus service, taxis etc. should have told us something (apparently the ferry continues to the main port on the other side of the island !)

What confronted us was a steep climb through the local town, which in itself proved most interesting if not a little tiring. On arrival at the top we managed to explain that we were looking for a local bus service to take us to the other side of the island, thankfully we were understood and managed to catch a local bus to take us to Skopelos town.

The scenery was fantastic and if we had had more time we would have loved to stop off at one or more of the local villages. Skopelos town itself was charming and we had a delicious lunch before catching the normal ferry back to Skiathos

Holiday in Paros

2008-05-19T16:40:00.000-07:00

This was our fourth holiday on the Greek Islands, having previously been to Skiathos twice and Zakynthos once. We arrived on Saturday 12th August after an eventful 36 hour journey which will no doubt be a long running saga between the tour operators and ourselves. BE AWARE - HIGH WINDS IN AUGUST SOMETIMES STOP HIGH SPEED AND SMALL FERRIES !

However, once on the island of Paros it was everything we hoped it would be. We were actually grateful for the high winds referred to above because in the fortnight we were there we did not see a single cloud and the wind helped to keep the temperatures to a comfortable level.

We stayed in the Zefi apartments on the outskirts of Naoussa which is on the north of the island. Zefi - a family (all of whom made us most welcome - no doubt we will return !) run business run by Zefi (Mamma) a charming lady - who speaks virtually no English - her husband Babis (excuse the spelling) and their three offspring Christos, Yannis and Elleni (whose English is superb). Last but not least - Theodore - what a character, a wonderful dry sense of humour and a most helpful guy.

Enough of the advertisements, what about the island ?

Beaches

There was no problem whatsoever in finding quiet sandy beaches even in high season, some within 5 minutes walking distance and others accessible by bus either from Naoussa or Paroikia the capital. This beach at Santa Maria - unspoilt, you can get sunbeds & umbrellas, although what few people we saw preferred to do their own thing; no tavernas on the beach so take your own food & drink unless you want a 3 minute stroll to the nearest cafe. This picture was taken about mid-day in the middle of August with Naoussa in the background.

This beach at Farangas on the south of the island close to Alykes, reached by car down a short dusty track. There’s a delightful little taverna on the beach where we sat and enjoyed a delicious cafe frappe before going for a swim. The high winds did mean that once or twice people on the beach were sand blasted, but a small price to pay for a beautiful setting.

We tried a number of beaches, each of which were charming in their own way but two we particularly liked were :

Ampelas - on the north east of the island, sandy beach,tavernas & charming little harbour.

Piso Livadi - a lot busier but well worth a mention if only for the fact that there is a free car park immediately by the beach and numerous tavernas.

Moving inland.

We attempted to get to the monastery of Agios Antonios at Marpissa, but after driving up a steep winding road for approx. one mile we found ourselves some 300 metres short of the monastery - which we would have to do on foot. I’m embarrassed to say that we just could not face this steep climb, but we did enjoy the panoramic views and marvelled at how the monks manage this journey on a regular basis. Driving further inland we came to the beautiful village of Lefkes with the classic method of cultivation, using terraces just outside the village. A short distance from Lefkes is Kostos, where we stopped for lunch. An idyllic setting on the side of the main road, the taverna being populated with many trees offering shade and a deafening chorus from the crickets when the wind wasn’t blowing. Having perused the menu for five minutes we finally decided what we wanted, only to be told by the lady of the house that there was only a limited menu at lunchtimes ! Oh well - what we had was delicious and the setting was superb.

The towns.

Oh how we fell in love with the maze of little alleyways devoid of cars in both Paroikia and Naoussa. I don’t think we ever found the same way to a particular shop or restaurant twice, but that’s what made it more fun, because we kept finding a NEW shop or restaurant. Each day would find another local inhabitant painting the gaps between the slabs in the alleyways adding further brilliance to the dazzling white of the towns.

Eating out

So many places to choose from each night, each with their own style.

Whilst eating in Naoussa did we want to :

a) sit in the midst of Naoussa and watch the whole world go by, marvel at the street acrobat and his daughter performing, watch the local artists at work.

b) sit in a restaurant with the drying squid as a backdrop

c) sit somewhere quiet and relaxing listening to simple Greek music

d) sit at a table on the beach or by the harbour watching the sun go down (Shirley Valentine style)

We did them all but for c) we’d recommend Pervolaria and for d) we’d recommend Mitsi or Meltemi, but for me nothing beats watching the sun go down in Greece.

Crete in March (Part II)

2008-05-19T16:15:00.000-07:00

We were ready for lunch so we drove north through Elounda to the fishing village of Plaka. We looked for boats to take us to the fortress turned leper colony, but there were none as it is still winter.

We did find a wonderful fish tavern for lunch. Of course, we were the only patrons. The proprietor showed us two pans of fish (caught this morning). We selected a flat flounder and a big something or other, which we had with a big salad and a plate of grilled octopus. The view was magnificent--right on the sheltered blue green bay with the island opposite. The "beach" was large, perfectly smooth river stones, and when the waves went out, we could hear a unique sound as they tumbled against each other.

Thus fortified, we drove to the Aretion monastery (closed), stopped and hiked to the scanty remains of ancient Dreros, an important city in the Archaic Period (620-480 BC), where I found a scrap of ancient pottery.

Here we found that everything we had read about the sensual nature of Greece is true. You are surrounded by the sounds of birds singing and the smells of herbs--oregano, thyme and sage. The colors are intense--blue sky and deep blue water; yellow, red and white flowers; pink almond trees.

Home through Kastelli (a different one) with old Venetian mansions and its neighbor, Phourni. It was sprinkling a bit as we stopped to see the "other face of Elounda," the half-submerged city or Olous, destroyed by an earthquake around the 4th century. At the site was also a beautiful mosaic floor, now totally exposed to the elements, from an Early Christian basilica.

Wed., March 11

It was raining when we got up, so we decided to attack Heraklion and the world famous Archaeological Museum. We found a place to park about two inches longer than Jive and just about as wide. Jerry did a great job of parking. (Although the driver's mirror was "folded" back when we returned)

Most of the treasures of Knossos and the other palaces are here, and it was a very interesting visit, especially since we've seen some and will see more of the sites. Again, our guidebook did an excellent job of identifying the contents of each room's cases.

We finished just before 2 and decided to try and reach Tylissos (which closes at 3), where the remains of 3 late Minoan villas are on display. If we hadn't become hopelessly lost in Heraklion we might have made it. As it was, we got there (the books are right--get out of this capital city as quickly as you can) about 2:45, in the pouring rain, and it was locked. However, the parking lot overlooked the site so we were able to get a good idea of its layout.

We had to go back toward the capital so we stopped at a very OBT taverna in Gais. The owner, who looked as if he had spent the morning painting and plastering, spoke no English. So we went into the kitchen, he opened the fridge, and we pointed. Everything was good including a great plate of papouleh salad (I think it must have been some sort of wild green), drizzled with olive oil and vinegar.

We got home about 5:30 and rested.

Th., March 12

This was a long day--we didn't get home till after 7 (and left at 8:30 am) but a very interesting one. The weather was bright and sunny if a bit cool in the mountains, with dramatic black clouds hovering over the mountains.

We took the road south to Ierapetra, the most southerly town in Europe. This is a rich vegetable and fruit-growing region--cucumbers, tomatoes and beans--and is known as the vegetable garden of Greece. Olives and citrus trees were everywhere. The trip was gorgeous, with breathtaking views.

From Ierapetra we turned west and traveled close to the coast to Mirtos, the "hippie beach" where the caves are now locked at night to keep them out. The road went slightly north and then west--very picturesque. Between Sinikismos and Aniras we suddenly came upon a modern monument with a poem in four languages (Greek, English, German and French) inscribed on stones, which honored the 350 people, killed by the Nazis in 1943.

We took one wrong turn but it was only about six miles. I continue to be impressed by this map. We stopped at the town of Aimi at the village market, but it was strictly for the town, not for tourists. There were the usual fruit and vegetable vendors, but also shoes, fabrics, clothes and hardware--nothing we couldn't live without, and no handicrafts.

We drove all the way to Agia Triada for the first of four planned stops. I had a few doubts about whether we would make it up the road, but we did. Speculation is that this site was the summer residence of the rulers from the palace at Festos. Many frescoes and cult objects were found here including the Harvester Vase and the wonderful sarcophagus we saw in Heraklion. One of the interesting things here is the number of apparently original columns, carvings, etc that haven't been moved.

We took a short detour to the town of Vori, where we saw a very interesting folk museum with exhibits categorized into areas of everyday life: food gathering, weaving, agriculture, viniculture, tools, etc.

Festos (Phaistos) was the next stop. After Knossos, this is the most important palace. Like the others it was destroyed and rebuilt on two occasions and was used until 1450 BC (and the catastrophe of Santorini). The famous Festos disc with the world's oldest printed script was found here.

We stopped for lunch in Mires and once again had a very authentic meal. We each started with a bean dish: mine was a kind of vegetable stew, and J's was mashed and heated gray beans drenched with olive oil and onions. Then I had wonderful light fried eggplant slices and J had octopus stew followed by meatballs.

Then to the final site, Gortis, quite a different one. The first building is the impressive ruin of the basilica of St. Titus (6th century), pupil of St. Paul and the first bishop of Crete. More impressive is the Odeon (theatre) at first century Roman rotunda with the famous Code of Gortys, a law code dating from 500-450 BC. Twelve tables of laws have been preserved out of probably an original 20. They are on 42 stone blocks. The Romans didn't understand the dialect and left them alone.

Then we walked across the street and through a working olive grove where columns and tablets lay about or formed part of farmers' walls. What a sense of history! Finally we found a Roman Praetorium, an excavation in process with first and second century carvings. Quite a day!

Fri., March 13

Our vacation is coming to an end. This day was beautiful. We went into AN in the morning. The shop was still closed, so we walked around the town a bit and when we came back it was finally open. The owner, artist Nick Gavril, was working on his copies of ancient Greek art. He told us about the pieces, including a major one, which has been purchased by the Met. We selected a plate with symbols of Aphrodite, Poseidon, and "Harmony."

Then we set off for a scenic tour around the Lasithiou Plateau. We climbed and climbed, almost to the snow covered peaks, then descended into the plain, a basin of about 15 square miles enclosed by the Dikti mountains, and one of the most fertile areas of Crete, growing potatoes, fruits and cereals. One of the caves here (which we didn't visit) was the birthplace of Zeus.

We were hungry and stopped at the only town, which looked as if it might have a taverna, Dzernuado. It had several, but only one was open. The lady in charge, after running across the street when she saw us, led us to the kitchen and offered us bean soup and pork with roasted potatoes. She apologized for not having more, but this was not the season of tourists. It looked fine to us, and we ate heartily.

On the road out of town, we spied a tiny stone shop with beautiful weavings, lace and embroidery. Jerry bargained and we left with 2 rugs.

We stopped at a charming little abandoned monastery, Moni Gouverniotisas, whose only inhabitants were 2 baby goats. In the center was a gorgeous lemon tree, and J speared himself on giant thorns releasing 3 of the yellow globes from bondage.

After one last stop at the supermercado, we made our way back to the villa and began to pack. We went back to Gleeka's for dinner. She was very happy to see us and we had a long conversation. She gave us ouzo again and we ordered dinner: Lamb chops for me and baked gyros with brandy sauce for J. We talked some more and her husband made us a flaming brandy. Jerry forgot to blow his out before tasting. Now his bottom lip is white. We had a drink at the hotel bar and retired.

Sat., March 14

We checked out (owing 17759 drachmas for electricity and water) and headed west about 9:30. We had one last palace to see--Malia--and almost felt as if we knew what we were looking at--we have learned something. Malia was signposted and had paths, probably because of its proximity to the capital. There were also a few other tourists here.

We ate sandwiches by the roadside and made it to the airport without incident. I checked us in while J returned Jive to Hertz. We waited about 45 minutes and boarded our flight. We've noticed that there seems to be little organization in Greek airports. We landed in Athens and got a cab to the Odeon. It seemed to take a long time. There was a demonstration against the devaluation of the drachma and it made the route slow.

We checked in and called Panos. We arranged to meet them at Kolonaki Square, the center of Athens and a very posh neighborhood. We ate dinner at Jackson Hall, an American style sports bar, and then Michael took us for a hair-raising ride up to Lykavithos Hill, the highest in the city. We drove as far as we could, then walked the rest of the way. The views were spectacular. The small whitewashed chapel of Agios Georgios crowns the top of the hill. We had coffee and dessert in the restaurant and then walked back to the car. It was a great way to spend our last evening in Greece.

Sun., March 15

Home on another long flight. Got to LBI about 7:30 PM (2:30 AM body time), went through the mail and prepared to return to reality.

Crete in March (Part I)

2008-05-19T15:36:00.000-07:00

Sat., March 7

Six thirty came very early this morning, but we made it. Caught a cab with no trouble at 7 and were at the airport by 7:20 (with a stop on the way to photograph the Acropolis at dawn) for our 8:50 flight. It was uneventful (Olympic Air) and we landed at Heraklion about 9:40. The Hertz counter at the International terminal was closed, but the regular one was open and we got our green, green, green "Jive" Nissan and were on our way.

The drive to Elounda was beautiful. Arid hills, which go right down to the blue sea, were covered with red, white, yellow and orange flowers. Then we found Porto Elounda Mare!!

This is an unbelievably luxurious resort. We are in "Kos", #10 Villa: 2 stories, 2 bedrooms, 2 baths, 2 fireplaces, sunken living room, full kitchen, private garden, and our own pool. I feel like Jackie O. The off-season rate is $300 per day and in high season it's $750. I'm a bit overwhelmed.

After we unpacked, we decided on a short trip to visit Krista, a little village near our capital of Agios Nickolas. We visited the church of Panagia Kera, a tiny place and one of the finest creations of Byzantine art. A grove of pines and cypresses gives it an atmosphere of tranquility, but the best things are the beautiful frescos, "the finest in Crete." They were painted everywhere and, even with our very good guidebook, we gave up on identifying all the saints and Bible stories.

Close by was the Doric town of Lato. Here are the ruins of a town founded in the 7th and 8th centuries BC. We wound our way up a narrow and rough road and found one old man sitting by a gate. He told us the site closed at three (it was shortly after 1), and we began our climb. What a neat place!! The Dorians came after the peaceful and creative Minoans and Myceans and really began the classic Greek culture. It is very simple and elegant architecture. The town was very interesting and easy to follow with our books. We also saw kiri kiri (wild goats) clinging to the sides of sheer rock faces.

We made it back by 2:30 and figured we had better find some places to buy food before everything closes at three. We got oranges at a fruit stand, bread at a bakery, and sausage, wine and cheese at a mini mart. We came back to Elounda for a late lunch and stopped at Gleeka's place. Apparently they weren't scheduled to open till five tonight (Grand Opening), but they seemed happy to serve us. We had grilled eggplant, gyros and Greek salad with lots of wine. Gleeka brought us complementary ouzo first and before we left brought us another (for the other leg). We talked quite a while. She is newly here after a not too happy experience in Germany. We walked around the port, but I was tired, so we came home to watch our beautiful view and catch up on our sleep. We went to bed at nine.

Sun., March 8

Slept soundly until 8, breakfasted on freshly squeezed (of course our villa has an electric juicer) orange juice and rolls, then began our "Eastern Crete" itinerary.

Gournia was a typical Minoan town with narrow paved streets, small dwelling houses and a palace and temple on the highest ground. It is one of the earliest examples of a European town. Gournia was occupied from BC 3000-1100. The remains date from its heyday between 1800 and 1500 BC (late middle and early late Minoan periods).

I bought some film in the little fishing village of Paheia Ammes, and we followed the beautiful road along the coast to Sitia. We stopped several times to admire the panoramas. After the first stop, Jerry always remembered to set the hand brake before we got out.

We left the main (red) highway for a yellow road, which hugged the coast, passing the interesting Italinate monastery at Toplori. It was built in the first half of the 14th century and was much used during WWII. We didn't stop as one of the books talked about how the architecture had been changed to accommodate tourists and about how one of the two remaining monks (there had been 150) was rather "sullen."

The landscape is very barren and desolate--sharp mountains covered with stony rubble and scrub brush (herbs such as thyme) dropping right into the very blue sea. At one point we came upon a "development", Dionysis Villas, right in the middle of NOWHERE.

Then suddenly we were in the middle of a banana plantation and a beautiful palm lined blue beach at Vai. The book said the palms were a result of Arab traders leaving seeds from dates they ate. We bought some of the best bananas I've ever had and decided to wait for lunch.

We traveled south through Palekastro with a fascinating mixture of lush countryside and totally barren landscapes to the excavation site of Kato Zakros. The last curvy and rather steep stretch is interesting, leading through country that reminded us of photos of the moon. The valley, however, seemed lush, and we actually saw water on some of the rocks.

Suddenly, the road ended in front of a taverna. We parked and walked around until we found the entrance to the palace behind the taverna. We were (again) the only tourists, but there was a girl in the ticket booth who gave us two tickets (free) and told us the site closed at three (Why was she there?). This was less well preserved than Gournia, but better explained in both books. The area was inhabited from 2700 BC. The palace and ports were in existence from, 1600-1410, making it a bit later than Gournia but much earlier than Lato (Dorian). This one was destroyed by the Mycenaeans, not by the "catastrophes" (earthquakes and tidal waves) that kept destroying the rest of Crete.

We decided to have lunch at the taverna where we had parked (with one other, apparently the total town). The only other people there were locals. We sat at a table just feet from the sea and ate: souvlaki which we had seen cooking on an outdoor grill, tzatziki, Greek salad and calamari with bread and wine. Wonderful. (Jerry in the photo above).

We had filled up with gas at Sitia; so, with a full belly and a full gas tank, we headed west. There were two ways to go--the yellow roadway on which we had come, or the white (minor--some would say donkey path) road. Of course we picked the OBT way, a dirt and stone trail on which we only saw one other (very surprised) vehicle.

It was quite a trip, but we made it back to a yellow road (scenic) and then back via Sitia. On our way through Agios Nickolas, we saw a tiny church with the doors open and we went in. It was about 12x12 but filled with beautiful icons. Quite a treat. Home to our own palace where we had a snack (during which the maid came to check and make sure everything is OK--it is). Now we have to plan tomorrows and Knossos.

Mon., March 9

Another beautiful day. My spring clothes are very comfortable, although the Cretans are still wrapped in layers of woolen duds. It's lovely to come home at the end of the day and to write this journal while looking out over our lighted pool and the blue Mediterranean.

We drove back to Heraklion to get to the palace at Knossos (1600-1400 BC). Here the architectural apogee of the Golden Age of Minoan culture can be seen. The palace extends over five acres and had 1300 rooms on 4 stories. Eight thousand people lived there at the time of the catastrophe of Santorini in 1450. This is purported to be the scene of the Minoan labyrinth where King Minos kept the Minotaur until Theseus killed him. This was much more extensively renovated than anything we've seen so far and apparently the reconstruction has occasioned much controversy. All of the frescos and artifacts have been removed to the museum at Heraklion. Some have been recreated at Knossos and concrete has been used to hold stones together throughout the palace. I'm glad they did it, because it gives a much clearer picture of the site.

From Knossos we drove south through Arkhanes and fields and fields of olives and grapes. There were some excavations here, but they were closed on Monday, so we enjoyed the scenery and went over a very OBT road until we rejoined a red road to Kastelli.

We stopped at the Angarnthos monastery founded in 960. The newer church had wonderful icons including one of the "Mother of God Suckling the Child." We don't understand what the aluminum "tags" hanging from icons are.

We also don't know why the roadside shrines have unusual personal items in front of the icons.

The books talked about the town of Thrapsano where the main street is lined with potter's workshops and the winding lanes and old Turkish houses have hardly changed for centuries. We drove through and saw the workshops, but it seemed very strange, with no people, stores, tavernas or anything. On the outskirts of town we found a shop and bought a plate and a bowl.

The road led into Kastelli where we lunched at the taverna Irini (rainbow) in a neoclassical building built in 1910. We had a great meal of taramosalata, grilled octopus, moussaka and the old goat had old goat.

We came home and walked around the grounds.

Note: at the supermarket, the CD's were various Greek music, Frank Sinatra (40-year-old photo) and Tina Turner.

Tues., March 10

It was a bit overcast when we got up and had our fresh OJ, baklava, chocolate filled croissant, coffee and tea, so we decided to go into AN and visit the Archeological Museum, the most important one in Crete after the one in Heraklion. It was built in 1970 to house the rich new finds from eastern Crete. It was very well set up, with exhibits arranged in chronological order from Neolithic (6000-2100 BC) to the end of the Greco-Roman period (550-400 BC). It was very interesting, and my guidebook identified the contents of each room, case-by-case.

By the time we emerged, the weather had cleared and it was sunny and warm. We decided to explore the town. It is a very Mediterranean place, with the beautiful Gulf of Mirabello to the east and the picturesque lake Voulismeni (one of only 2 fresh water lakes in Crete) adjoining the harbor. One of the guidebooks says, "It soon becomes clear that water is not the main attraction...AN is quite simply a magnet for the trendiest of Crete's tourists--the one resort on the island which is reminiscent of Mykonos."

We, however, appear to be the only tourists here. We were the only ones at the Museum (they had to turn the lights on for us). The season doesn't start for another 10 days, and the Tourist Office wasn't even open (although the sign outside listed our hotel as the most expensive in the area). We walked around and looked in shops and restaurants. The one really nice "Museum Shop" was closed so we'll try that again.

We finally found the church for which the town was named. It was outside of the town on the grounds of the Minos Palace Hotel--a beautiful new place where workmen were frantically trying to get it ready for the season. We got a key for the church at the front desk (after surrendering our passport as hostage).

It was a beautiful little place and one of the oldest churches in Crete with the only example of the ornamental frescos from the period of Iconoclasm (726-843) when figural representation was banned in churches and the only painting was ornamental. It was overpainted with figures in the 14th century, and we also saw graffiti carved by visitors in the 18thcentury.

Backpacking in Greece (Part VI)

2008-05-19T11:47:00.000-07:00

Parga - Mainland Greece

The village of Parga is well worth a visit or even a stay here, being only 1 hour by bus from Sivota. It is set against a backdrop of huge mountains overlooking a beautiful bay. High on the hill at the end of the harbour stands the ruins of a Venetian castle/fortress, which is brightly lit of an evening. From the castle i mention, there is a dirt track which runs down to a great beach called Valtos beach. You will find another great beach with very fine shingle at Lichnos. There are also two small town beaches, where if you wish can hire pedalos.

There are lots of very narrow streets surrounding Parga which are quite fun exploring. Plenty of tavernas, shops, and cafe/bars. There are also two discos here. Try taverna "Romantica" it probably has the best views and is not expensive at all. You will find this almost at the top of the many steps towards the castle. The taverna is signposted once you are near the top this is a 15 minute stroll.(quite steep) Parga is situated opposite the island of Paxos, nearest larger island being Corfu.

Parga is a lot busier than Sivota, you will find many rooms to rent here, even on the road approaching Parga village.

Backpacking in Greece (Part V)

2008-05-19T11:26:00.000-07:00

Sivota - Mainland Greece

Both Sivota & Parga are on the Greek mainland, in an area known as Epirus, Sivota being opposite the island of Corfu, which can be seen from the harbour. The scenery around both these towns is spectacular, huge mountain ranges can be seen wherever you look.

Sivota is by far the quietest, although beginning to be noticed. There are several ways to get here; you can get a flight from Athens to Preveza, the nearest airport. Then take a Taxi from outside the airport this journey will take an hour to Parga, or a 2 hour journey to Sivota. You could email Vasso from Isabella Tours and I am sure she would organise a taxi to meet you at the airport.

Another option is a flight to Corfu then a ferry to Igoumenitsa, there you will need to catch a taxi to Sivota (which should take 45 minutes) or Parga (which should be around 90 minutes).

Or fly direct to Preveza with Excel Airlines operating from the UK. Do not let these journey times put you off, i can assure you it will be worth it!

When you reach your destination there will be no shortage of rooms for rent.

Once in Sivota pay a visit to Isabella Tours (general tourist office) A must! Vasso or Georgia will help you in any way, whether it be finding accomodation or just a day trip. They also rent motor bikes and scooters from their office in the main street, make sure you remember to take your driving license with you.

You can change any monies or travellers cheques in either of their two offices. Nothing is too much trouble for these great characters.

Upon arrival in Sivota you will probably be dropped off in the main street outside Isabella Tours. You are only five minutes walk from the beautiful waterfront. From this main street just past Isabella Tours you can catch a bus to Parga if you wish, the bus from Sivota leaves every day around 11-45am, and costs around 2 Euro.

Take note, the bus only goes one way and will not return to Sivota, therefore once you want to return, catch a taxi from the main street in Parga. Expect to see a taxi every 30 minutes or so, the cost should be around 20 Euro. It will take aprox 45 minutes. You may find them more frequent in the evening.

The motor bikes i mentioned before from Isabella Tours will cost around 10 Euro for the smaller engine size, i.e: 50cc, or 16 Euro for the larger bikes 125cc, this price is based on one day and does not include fuel which is extra.

There are many tavernas and cafes to choose from in Sivota, half the fun is trying new places to eat. You will find some hidden away near the main street and others on the waterfront itself. I never found any bad ones whilst i was staying here, which is probably a first for me.

If you like Italian, check these out:
La Ruota Ristorante
Mediterraneo Ristorante
Parasole Cafe-Ristorante

For great breakfasts try :
The Blue Coast taverna, situated on the waterfront, one of the first to be built here in Sivota. You will find cafe bars on the waterfront all of these serve drinks night and day, but may only serve light snacks. i.e : cheese & ham toastie.

My favourite bar is Bamboo Place opposite the small jetty. A very warm welcome is to be had here, especially once you are greeted by Andraes (the waiter) his father owns this cafe bar.

There is one music bar which stays open till at least 2am, this is situated at the start of the harbour area. Also Sivota has a couple of night-clubs.

Several nice shops are to be found in Sivota ranging from small shops selling cheap goods to more expensive jewelry. You will also find two minimarkets on the waterfront, and two supermarkets on the main road.

There are five great beaches to choose from, depending on how far you want to walk. Mega Amos is the furthest away, but has more to offer, i.e : volleyball, pedaloes, and sunbeds, even has a taverna/bar. This will take 30 minutes to walk, follow the main road, up towards Isabella tours.

You have three which are from 10 minutes to 25 minutes walk, at the end of the harbour there is a path up a small hill, follow this and you will come across the first one, from there you can walk to the next two.

My favorite beach has to be at the other end of the harbor, called "Bela Vraka" walk up the very steep hill past the chemist, carry on for a further 15 minutes you will come across a very nice House/Villa, opposite there is a dusty path going downhill follow this all the way down.

Then Paradise!

Take note: There is a Hotel and water sports centre which have started to use this beach aswell, they seem to have started storing their windsurfing boards here, which is a great shame! You can walk across the sea to the other side which is another beach on a small island, the sea here is only 18 inches deep. Worth the little trek, spend all day here and forget everything!

There are now four places to hire these boats from, and you will find them around the waterfront. We always use the one at the end of the waterfront, right infront of the two new big supermarkets.

There are many islands around Sivota, the scenery is amazing, so if you have the time, and here i am sure you will have. Hire these boats, they are a must! The cost should be around 35 Euros for 4 - 5 hours, this price does not include the fuel used, which will be checked upon bringing back the boat. You can also hire them for the whole day, price around 45 Euro plus fuel. If the boat guys think it will be rough out there, or the weather will change for the worst, they will probably not let you take the boats out to sea.

Just come back from Sivota, Who knows you may see me here next year, i will for sure be returning to Sivota. I am kind of addicted to this little place, have so many good friends here now.
On our return they all said to me,
"Your not putting Sivota on your website are you?"
"We do not want it getting too popular"

Other places worthy of a visit nearby are;
Plataria, River Acheron, the islands Paxos and AntiPaxos, Ioannina, Igoumenitsa, and if you have a couple of days visit Meteora monastries, one of these monastries you will know from a James Bond film. Spectactular sights!

Backpacking in Greece (Part IV)

2008-05-19T11:16:00.000-07:00

Peloponnese

I have traveled the Greek islands for many years now and apart from Athens had given very little thought to the mainland. I had never until recently hired a car and gone in search of the interesting, and, as it turned out, quite spectacular sights to be seen there.

The following places I mention were all seen in a day, but you need to start out early. Take plenty of film with you and have fun!

First and foremost, a special "thank you" to our Athenian friend Amalia, both our tour guide and driver on this trip, but we won't mention anything about a railway barrier!

CORINTHIA

Whilst traveling the National Road from Athens, you will come across toll-booth's, the road toll charges will range from 1.46 Euro to 2.93 Euro. When you take the highway out of Athens the first prefecture you come to in the Peloponnese is Corinthia. Make sure to pull over at the lay-bye, take your camera and look down at the Corinth Canal...... What a view! You will no doubt recognize it from the many postcards published.

The Corinthian's were the first people to come up with the idea of a canal but were unable to complete it, so they turned to building a paved slip-way in order to haul their boats over the isthmus. It was not until 1893 that the Corinth Canal was eventually completed, in fact by the French.

As time passed Athens was to become such a powerful force that Corinth's power declined, then the Roman's under Nero completely destroyed the city in 146BC. Today Corinth is one of Greece's major cities it has a large waterfront with lots of taverns, bars etc, it is lively in both summer and winter.

Many ancient ruins are at the base of the huge rock of Acrocorinth, most of these however are Roman. The views here are quite stunning!
Amongst the many ancient buildings can be found the Temple of Aphrodite. The goddess of love!

Further along the National Road between Corinth and Patras you will come across lots of smaller villages which are well worth a visit, time permitting of course.

The next town I mention we came across because we were slightly lost! (Not according to our tour guide)

ARGOS

Here you will see Roman baths, ancient Odeum and the Agora, Argos also has a modern town, which can be quite busy, however it is virtually free of tourist's. Also you will see hundreds of orange orchards, Argos is famous for this.

MYCENEAE

Now this is a must! a quite amazing amount of history and ancient ruins to behold. Park your car and head towards the Acropolis, pick up a book/map from the kiosk. (worth the money)
You enter the Acropolis through the Lion Gate, a good photo opportunity, (it has a second entrance on the opposite side.) Inside are the palace ruins, a walk to the top will provide great views. On your way back down you will come across some footpaths, follow these to some incredible tombs built like cones. To this day they are not sure how these were actually built.

NAFPLION

The first capital of Greece, Nafplion is an amazing place, there is a great Venetian fortress in the middle of Nafplion Bay. Look up and you will see the restored castle of Palamide, if you are prepared to climb the 1000 steps it will provide worthwhile. Once again a view to be admired, another great camera moment! We arrived late afternoon just in time to see the sunset, I never thought the mainland could be so spectactular until I came across Nafplion, here would be a great base from which to explore the surrounding sites. It's waterfront is filled with tavernas, bars and cafes, and for the ladies the main square has lots of small boutiques.

Backpacking in Greece (Part III)

2008-05-19T10:58:00.000-07:00

I have only wrote about the Islands that i have personally visited myself, and many revisited.

PAROS

One of my favorites I will always go back to. The main port is called Parikia, and can get very busy especially June/July. Try and head for Naoussa (about 25 mins). You should easily find a room here, it has a few beaches, and plenty of Tavernas to choose from mainly in the road heading to the Church. I recommend - "Takis" restaurant. There are also some splended places to eat around the harbour area (mainly fish tavernas). This area is very RELAXING! Paros is quite a large island, therefore lots to do.
Make sure you visit Anti - Paros

NAXOS

Very close to Paros, only one hour away by ferry. Therefore a must! There is a small kiosk at the waterfront offering rooms this may help you. Naxos claims to have more & more backpackers (visitors) each year. It is also one of the biggest islands of the Cyclades. You first come across Chora/Naxos town, which has a very touristy water front with lots of tavernas & bars. (Which can be quieter out of season) Follow the small streets to the top, lots of little shops on the way. (hard going on the legs) Take a look at The Temple of Apollo!

MYKONOS

This island is probably one of the most expensive, the accommodation also seems to be higher priced. But do not let this put you off. Well worth a visit, July/August can be very busy. This is the island where they filmed "Shirley Valentine". It has great beaches, Paradise probably being the most famous beach. Also famous for the 1956 Pelican bird landing here! (Island attracts lots of young people & has a high number of Gay people visiting)

SYROS

I was unlucky here, as I left the night the Olympic Torch ceremony was being held. Spectactular as you aproach from a ferry. Straight away your eyes look towards the two towns. The main town being Ermoupolis, even here we had no trouble with finding rooms. If you love walking then you must walk to the top. WHAT A VIEW! Do not forget to take the camera.

SIFNOS

Another one of my favorites, I will always go back here just to chill out! What a lovely place as you arrive by boat you see this small town surrounded by huge mountains. This is where I met Matt Barrett. We arrived here in early May, it was probably the quietest island I had visited, lovely but had trouble getting food during the day. Catch the local bus at the end of the port which runs backwards & forwards and you can get off at any of the stops and go exploring. Kastro is a must, wow, what a walk down!

IOS

This island tries to live up to it's reputation, those looking for traditional Greek Islands would probably do best to avoid it. Saying that, I am glad I visited Ios. Old Chora is very picturesque, the port of Gialos is quiet, apart from a few bars. Behind the port climbs the old mule track up to the Chora, which is worth trying to climb!!
(Ios attracts young people finding bar work)

CORFU

Corfu is a very green Island, and has many vineyards and orange groves. Probably mostly famous as the number one package deal holiday from the UK. But still worth a visit. It is the second largest Island of the Ionian. The most spectacular scenery is to be found on the west coast. The Greek mainland can be reached from here in under two hours, and Sivota can be seen on a clear day. Make sure you pay a visit to Corfu Town, but if you want a quiet time stay away from "Kavos".

SANTORINI

We arrived & managed to sit on a ferry for over four hours stuck at the port (top deck) WOW! Who cared about the dockers strike! The stunning view was worth the long wait. Try and stay in Thira, the main town. Slightly more expensive but worth the extra money. The great attraction in the old town has to be the view over the caldera and the volcano. Try walking down the steps to the bottom port, great going down, wait till you come up!!! That is why they have donkeys down there as some people give up in the heat!
Thira has lots to offer, and becomes very busy at night, shops everywhere & plenty of bars and tavernas to choose from.

CRETE

This island has something for everyone, being the largest Greek Island, you would find you need six weeks to cover most of the island. Also has the longest and deepest gorge in Europe. "SAMARIA gorge". Which is a must if you like walking (an all day trip) Chania is a very popular destination, also Agios Nickolaos the later being a lot more touristy. Chania also was the capital until 1971.
This island is very mountainous, and worth hiring a jeep or car!

POROS & HYDRA

Poros is not to be confused with Paros, totally different Islands. Poros & Hydra are very close to the mainland and can be both reached easily from Aegina, the main village here is called "Poros". This village faces the mainland and has shingle beaches. Poros Town is quite busy, here you will find plenty of small stalls and shops. You can reach most beaches from the harbour where you can get a boat shuttle.

HYDRA

The first thing you notice about this Island are "No Cars", pedestrians only. Most of this pretty Island is covered by pines. As you aproach the Island you are drawn towards the steep white houses, and the harbour full of waterside cafes/bars. If you fancy a two hour steep walk, try walking towards the monastery of Profitis Ilias and the nunnery of Agia Evpraxia they both face each other, on a 500m mountain slope.

AEGINA

This island is great as it is so close to Athens, only 40 minutes away by Flying Dolphin. So worth bearing in mind as a stop over for returning back to Athens when you have finished your trip. Very scenic waterfront, with lots of Cafe/bars. Check out the Church at the other end of the harbour! At weekends this island seems to suffer from noisy mopeds all through the night, especially in Aegina town. (nearly drove me mad) You have to remember a lot of people from Athens come over for the day or weekend. The island can be mostly covered in one day, main places to visit Perdika, Ag. Marina, Souvala, Aegina Town. (This was my first Greek Island I ever visited)

SERIFOS
Livadi is the main port with a very nice beach and great harbour. The capital being Chora, this is a place not to be missed. With its ridge of windmills, and hills topped with white washed buildings. Breathtaking! The place is split into two, the older section running along the hill, the newer town runs down the south slope.

Backpacking in Greece (Part II)

2008-05-19T10:50:00.000-07:00

Athens is the ideal, and probably the obvious place to start your trip. Everyone always asks me how long to stay in Athens, "Is a day long enough?" Well my answer to that would be no, ok Athens is busy, and the traffic is chaos, but within a five minute walk you can be somewhere away from all the noise of the traffic. I would say 2-3 days perhaps your first visit, there are lots of great things to visit, from Museums, street markets, National Gardens, the list is endless. (I mention a few of the places worth visiting further down the page.)

On arrival at Athens Airport, immediately outside the Terminal Building you will find a taxi rank, the taxi queue will start from Door 4 of the Arrivals Level, you will also find a bus stop. I always use a taxi to get to the Plaka District of Athens, expect to pay around 17.60 Euro...The meter should be turned on as soon as you are in the taxi, but i prefer to agree the rate beforehand, (i have been told this is illegal) lately there have been a few reports of meter fixing. I feel i have been lucky with taxis as i have never had any problems with the fares or drivers. In most cases i have found them very helpful. I have received a few e-mails from others who have had problems, but i suppose this can happen in any country.

The Plaka, which is close to the Acropolis in the centre of Athens, should normally take about 60 minutes if the traffic is not to bad . . . which it can be . . . especially during the rush hour!

The new airport is located 27km northeast of Athens, away from the city and it's located near Spata. (see my link page) Athens International Airport is accessable via Attiki Odos, a six-lane motorway constituting the Athens City Ring Road. Public transport is provided by express airport buses, which have connections with Athens centre and the port of Piraeus on a 24hr basis. There are three bus itineraries dedicated to carry passengers to and from the airport.

LINE E94 connects the Ethniki Amina Metro Station with the airport. Passengers can transfer from the Metro line to the airport bus at this departure point.

LINE E95 Syntagma Square - Airport Express has it's departure point at the centre of Athens and via Vas. Sofias Ave, Mesogian Ave and Attiki Odos terminates at the airport.

LINE E96 Pireaus - Airport Express starts from the centre of Pireaus (Karaiskaki Square) and via Posidonos Ave, Varis-Varkiza, and Koropiou Roads terminates at the airport.

For Express Lines E94-E95-E96, the ticket costs 2.93 Euro and is valid for 24 hours on all public transport.

I always stay at The Plaka because its a good base from which to visit the city's many sights. The Acropolis and much more is within easy walking distance, and in the evenings the Plaka is quite lively. There are plenty of Taverna's some with live music, bars and late opening shops, all within a few hundred yards of THE ADAMS HOTEL. It has a great atmosphere whatever time of the year you decide to visit . . . even in January! As I found out this year.

The Acropolis and it's museum are of course a must for any visitor to Athens, and just below can be found Ancient Agora where there is also a good museum. Hadrian's Arch is at the corner of Amalias Street and the Roman Market at the beginning of Aiolou Street. I would strongly advise that you purchase a tourist map, which is readily available from the many small kiosks dotted around the city. A "Sky Map" of Plaka, should cost you around 1.46 Euro.

Take a walk to Syntagma Square, about 15 minutes, where traditionally dressed ceremonial guards are on duty at the Parliament Buildings, (the former residence of the Greek Monarchy). The changing of the guard ceremony is very popular with tourists from all over the world, but don't stand to close! they will not go around you!

Kolonaki is also worthy of a visit, a great place to relax on a hot Athens day, chill out with a "frappe" (iced coffee). Omonia Square and Monastiraki are other areas you might like to visit.

Recently opened is the underground railway, "The Metro", this might sound crazy amongst all this ancient history, but it is something you should see. You will find a Metro entrance in Syntagma Square. It is a cheap way to travel but can get very busy, as can all of Athens. Whilst building the station the completion date was delayed due to the discovery of ancient ruins, these can be seen from a viewing balcony, displayed behind glass panels.

The main port of Athens is Piraeus, this takes about 30 minutes from the city, from where most of the Greek Islands can be reached by ferry. At first I was a bit worried about just turning up at the harbour and attempting to purchase ferry tickets, but it's not a problem. Just check the sales kiosks in the port for the Island or group you intend to visit, and purchase your tickets . . "No Problem", as the Greeks say!

It is a large port, so make sure you find the right ferry company and boat, then check departure times at the boat. Destinations and departure times are displayed on the boats. (This being Greece however they might not leave on time!)

A lot of visitors head for the island of Paros (not to be confused with Poros) a good starting point as it's only 4 hours by ferry, and is central to the islands of The Cyclades.

Backpacking in Greece (Part I)

2008-05-19T09:37:00.000-07:00

Some people visit Greece in search of medieval temples, castles and fortresses. Others look for peaceful harbors, hilltop villages or secluded bays and beaches. Millions of tourists are simply looking for a good time in busy and bustling holiday resorts with sandy beaches and lots of bars. I try to stay away from all the big holiday resorts, prefer a more relaxed place mixing with the locals, Whatever you are after i am sure you will find it in Greece!

Island life seems to be more of a slower pace than life in the streets of Athens and other mainland cities, as much as i like the hustle and bustle of Athens it is nice to move on to a quiet island. There is no better way to spend an afternoon than sitting at a waterside taverna/cafe on a hot day with a glass of cold beer or a frappe (cold coffee), staring at the sea.

Most of the people living in Greece are ethnic Greeks, Other smaller minorities include people from Slavic, Albania, Romani (Gypsy) also Armenian, as well as Vlachs.

Modern Greek is the official language spoken.You will find English very well understood, reason is, English is taught in schools from an early age. Small groups of people also speak Arvanitika (which comes from Albania)

Most Greeks living here are members of the Greek Orthodox Church. You will find that religion is taken very seriously.

The older generation of family members are very much respected and have a lot of authority. Children are raised firmly, and told to respect others, parents will spend a lot of their earnings on clothes, food and making sure their children get an education. The average age for marriage is between 20 and 26 for women and 25 and 35 for men.

Meats mostly eaten are beef, pork, lamb and chicken. Fish and seafood dishes are also very popular. Olives are grown all through Greece, whereever you look you will probably see them, usually with black netting around the bottom of the trees. This is used to catch them when harvesting. Olive oil is used in most cooking, and of course the Greek salad, which can be purchased in any taverna. Deserts are popular and mainly include fruit, also try the "baklava" or "kataifi" i could eat hundreds of these. On Easter Sunday you will find lamb dishes being served at most tavernas, as this is tradition. Most Greeks will now have their main meal around 9pm in the evening, and will spend a lot of time at the table once their food is served.
Eating in a taverna is a Greek pastime.

Ancient Greeks beleived that when you meet a stranger, always be polite as he/she could be a God in disguise. Even today this politeness has been carried forward. You will find most Greeks to be friendly.

A very important day in the Greek calender is 25th March, Independance Day, 1821 was the date that Greece begun its revolution against 400 years of the Ottamans ruling. After 8 long years of war they reached autonomy, the day now is celebrated by speeches and parades.

There are about 1,400 Greek Islands, but only 166 of them are actually inhabited with human life. There are 78 islands which you can travel to by ferry or high speed boat. The Greek islands fall into six groups. The most popular being The Cyclades, these have 26 islands which are easily accessable by ferry.

Next are the Dodecanese islands which have 17 islands. The Saronic Gulf islands follow, then The Eastern & Northern Aegean islands. Lastly The Ionian islands.

The islands mostly get crowded in July and August, this seems to be the busiest. To avoid all the crowds and the heat, you may find it better from end of April to mid June, or try in September. May seems to bring out all the wild flowers, and in September you will still find the sea very warm. Whatever time you visit, I am sure you will enjoy.

Getting there from the United Kingdom

Greece is about 1800 miles from London to most places, so flying to the Greek islands is the best way. There are direct flights to a variety of Greek destinations from all the major British airports. Flying time varies from three hours to almost four and a half hours. The cost of charter flights are fairly reasonable, but this depends on what time of the year you are flying. Easter and Christmas are classed as high season, so will be very expensive, January to May should be quite cheap, then June to early September will be more pricy as this is in the main tourist season.

If you are thinking about flying direct to Athens, either to stay or to move on to backpacking round the islands. Then "easyJet" will probably be your cheapest option for leaving the United Kingdom.
To see my link page click here

Getting there from Ireland

A high season charter from Dublin to Athens should cost around 200 Irish pounds return. Year round scheduled flights with Air Lingus and British Airways operate from both Dublin & Belfast via Heathrow to Athens. Another option is to fly to London first, you can pick up budget flights with British Midland, Air Lingus and Ryan Air.

Perhaps one day I will have visited all the Greek islands. In the meantime here is a list of the ones that I have visited, and some re-visited.

Aegina, Poros, Hydra, Crete, Corfu, Paros, Naxos, Sifnos, Mykonos, Santorini, Syros, Tinos, Ios, Kythnos, Zakynthos, Serifos.

And not forgetting all the places i have visited on the mainland. Which includes, Parga, Sivota, Nafplion, Argos, Corinth, Mycenae, Plataria, Preveza, and of course many times Athens.

Museums of Athens, Great and Small

2008-05-19T08:03:00.000-07:00

THE GREAT MUSEUMS OF ATHENS

All of the museums of Athens have one or more excellent guides to their collections, which visitors are urged to purchase for their pleasure both while visiting Athens and, equally important, to remember their visit.

Still, a few words are in order on the principal collections which many will visit.

The Akropolis Museum: As its name suggests the Akropolis Museum contains finds, from the Akropolis; the glory of the collection lies in its sculpture, particularly the archaic sculpture. Visitors should be sure to see the Ramping Horseman, and the series of figures of korai, or young girls. The girls look as they would have done when taking part in the Panathenaic Procession. Also on display are those bits of sculpture from the Parthenon frieze which Lord Elgin did not take to England, as well as The Caryatides from the Erechtheum.

The Agora Museum: The Agora Museum has finds from the Agora, dating from the Neolithic to the Turkish periods. The museum's collection of pottery is superb; unfortunately, relatively little is on display, as this is a working collection for scholars. Visitors should be sure: to see the ancient Athenian working machine, or form of ballot box, known as the Kleroterion. In addition, the museum has many inscriptions on display, and numerous items from daily life through the centuries.

The Benaki Museum:
HaIf the fun of visiting the Benaki Museum on Leoforos Vasilissis, Sofias is seeing the lovely view of Athens from the Museum's rooftop cafe. The collection was begun by a wealthy Athenian, A. Benakis, and highlights the Greek War of Independence, the Monarchy, the PhilheIlenes and the early travellers in Greece. The museum's collection of Greek costumes is the finest in the country, as is its collection of islamic pottery. The museum is always cool and delightful in summer.

The Byzantine Museum: The Byzantine Museum is in the large home of the 19th century Duchess de Plaisance; astonishingly, the palace was in the open country when it was built little more than 140 years ago. The Museum is an excellent place to visit before touring the Byzantine churches of Athens, as exhibits set forth the development of church architecture in Greece. The museum's collection of icons is superb, and some what overwhelming for any not accustomed to this art form.

The Folk Art Museum: The Museum of Folk Art on Kidathineon Street is easy to miss, as only a small plaque on the door of number 17 announces its presence. It would be a shame to miss this delightful museum of Greek life throughout Greece; any who are not able to travel outside Athens should make a particular point to visit this superb collection of costumes and items of daily life (spinning wheels, agricultural tools, metal work, embroidery). The museum also contains an entire room painted by the famous modern Greek primitive painter Theophilos Hadjimichael(1868-1934)

The Kanellopoulos Collection: The Kanellopoulos Collection is in an elegant neoclassical house on the upper reaches of the Plaka, at the intersection of Theorias and Panou Streets. One passes the museum as one walks down from the Akropolis into the Plaka, and it makes a pleasant stop for a half-hour.
The collection is that of one family, and ranges through Greek art from Neolithic to modern times. The house is at least as interesting as the collection itself.

The Museum of the Kerameikos: As one would except from a museum in the potters's quarter, the Kerameikos Museum has a superb collection of ancient pottery. In addition, many of the funeral stele from the Kerameikos cemetery are on display here, as well as some of the sculptured figures which decorated the more ornate tombs.

The National Archaeological Museum: The National Museum on Patission Street deserves not one, but many visits. Especially in summer, the Museum is crowded, and it is difficult to see its riches at leisure. Good tours do exist which take one rapidly through the museum, past the highlights of the collection. Most will then wish to revisit the museum.

The Mycenaean Hall, just inside the Museum entrance, contains the famous gold of Mycenae, including the gold mask which Schliemann believed to be that of Agamemnon. Even if this was not the case, the regal splendor of the mask is haunting. The elegant gold Vaphio cups in the Mycenaean Hall are also irresistibly beautiful. In the Cycladic Hall are the Cycladic idols which many have compared to the work of Modigliani, so clean and modern are their lines. The Harp Player is particularly fine.

As one continues on through the museum, one proceeds chronologically from the Geometric (9th & 8th) to the Archaic (7th and 6th) to the Classical (5th and 4th) to the Hellenistic (3rd to 1st)periods. Monumental stone youths, or kouroi, give way to monumental bronze statues, such as the Zeus or Poseidon found off Cape Artemision. Funeral stele and portrait busts from throughout Greece, as well as architectural fragments and ornament fill the museum. On the upper floor are delightful frescoes from the island of Santorini (Thera), dating from the Minoan period, and various small collections. Quite simply, the National Museum of Archaeology has the finest collection of Greek antiquities in the world, and should be visited slowly, carefully, and often.

The National Gallery of Greece: This new picture gallery, across from the Hilton Hotel, has modern Greek painting of the 19th and 20th centuries. Often there are special exhibits of young artists on display. Anyone interested in modern art will find this a rewarding collection.

National Historical Museum: The Old Parliament Building on Stadiou Street is now the home of this collection which deals with Greek history in the 18th and 19th centuries, during the Greek struggle for Independence from the Turk. The museum has many fine etchings and paintings of heroes during that struggle, as well as stirring battle scenes.

THE SMALL MUSEUMS OF ATHENS

The Jewish Museum: The Jewish Museum at 5 Melidoni Street, beside the Athens synagogue, has a fascinating - and heartbreaking - collection of items illustrating life among Greek Jews before World War II. There were 80,000 Greek Jews before the war; only 8500 survived. Some of those who survived, notably Nikos Sravroulakis, organized this museum.

The Museum of the City of Athens: The Museum of the City of Athens is in the palace of King Otto on Klafmonos Square, and is one of the few remaining examples of the neo-classical style so popular under the new monarchy. Exhibits on the ground floor recreate the period of Otto, while the upstairs is arranged as it was when Otto and Queen Amalia lived here.

The Train Museum: The Train Museum, at 301 Liossion Street, preserves the memory of the Orient Express and other of the mighty steam trains which one made their way throughout Greece. Especially interesting are the royal coach of King George I and the smoking coach of the Sultan Abdul-Aziz.

Important: Museum Hours: It is vital to check for up-to-date information on all museums as close as possible to the time of one's visit. Museums are usually closed on Tuesdays and on 1 January, 25 March, Good Friday, Easter, and Christmas. Some museums are open all day, some mornings only, others afternoons only. Be sure to check for accurate, up-to-date information at the National Tourist Organization

Backpacking in Greece: Attica, Peloponnese, Northern Greece, Islands (Part V)

2008-05-18T08:04:00.000-07:00

The only islands discussed here are the ones I visited at the end of my trip. This includes Aegina/Moni and Mykonos/Delos as well as brief stops in Siros and Tinos.

After a tedious ride back from Thessalonika to Athens, I was ready to get out and see something new. So I left for Aegina as early as possible.

Aegina

Aegina: (6,333 inhab.) "Aegina Town" is the main port on the island that dominates the Saronic Gulf and it's only an hour's ride from Piraeus. In Classical times Aegina (history) was called "the eyesore of gulf" since it is very visible from the Acropolis and was an arch rival for some time with Athens. On the trip over I actually saw some dolphins alongside the ship, a sign of good luck. At the island, the lone remaining column from the archaic Temple of Apollo is a distinguishing landmark. The site is now called Colona, due to the remaining column. It is a picturesque town centered on the harbor where fresh fruit and seafood is brought in daily. I didn't stay very long here though, just enough to quickly see the Temple of Apollo site (not much though) and to talk my way into a brief view of the closed Archaeological Museum (may be open now), which had some big renovations going on due to structural damage. If you can get a postcard of the harbor at Aegina, you can still see the ancient docks under the water. I met some wonderful people from Osh Kosh, Wisconsin in Aegina as well (it was easy to pick out the American since I was wearing a "Fat Albert" T-shirt). Also, all the island's transportation is centered in Aegina so you'll have to go through there often if your moving about the island.

On the way to the main temple, we pass by an unbelievably large church. It is brand new and is supposedly the largest "church" in all of Europe. It sounds too odd to be true, but it is at the site of the monastery containing the body of Saint Nektarios (the first saint to be canonized by the Orthodox church in modern times). If your on the island, stop by and take a few photos.

Agia Marina: A small port town that relies mainly on tourism for the temple on the hill above. I stayed here three nights and I loved it, Temple of Aphaia on Aeginamainly because of the company and the food, but the hotel (can't remember the name, but it is the tallest one and probably one of the first on the left as you arrive from Aegina Town-maybe the Pantaleron?) was cheap and nice with a great view. The restaurants are great. Surely go by the "Three Brothers (Adelphoi)" by the shore and inland a kilometer (along well lit roads) is supposedly the best on the island (argh! can't remember this one either, but it is as you head back inland, possibly towards Alones?.?.). The Temple of Aphaia at the Archaeological site of Aphaia on Aegina is the big draw. It is fairly intact and most of the pediment statues have been spirited off to Germany. There were some terrific statues though. It still is unique in that the interior second level of columns have been reerected at some places. It has been struck by lightning in the past 30 years so there is a big, tacky rod next to the temple. Though the placement of the temple on a hilltop has the drawback of lightening strikes, you can see the Parthenon and the temple at Sounion from here if you bring some good binoculars. There is also a good view back to the mainland and some neat water trapping devices (a valuable commodity in the summer).

Perdhika: A really small town on the Southern tip of the island. Some good little bay restaurants and boats leave here for the island of Moni across the strait.

For additional Aegina information, try here.

Moni

A deserted island where there was once attempted a resort (the remains are prominent and derelict), but now it is a wildlife sanctuary. Tourists are allowed during the day and there are usually sunbathers and artists painting. There is also a German WWII lookout post at the top of the large hill. Good for a day hike. The island is inhabited by numerous peacocks and miniature horses with wild goats and giant hares (sounds a bit odd doesn't it). The peacocks and horses can be a pest though. The remains of the previous developments are an eyesore and junk is laying around all over the island. The beaches are not very large also, but it is still peaceful and unique.

Siros

This apparently seems to be a very desolate place, but as quick as you make a turn around a point the main town comes into view. It is a very common stop for trips all across the Aegean because of its location and size. The main town (Siros or Ermoupolis) has 13,000 inhabitants and is supposedly very clean and well built. What is obvious about the place when your boat is docking is the number of industries. It is one of the most industrialized towns in Greece with many cotton mills and tanneries. It is also well known for the neoclassical architecture of many of its buildings. Like every town of its size, Ermoupolis also has an Archaeological Museum, but theirs was founded in 1835 and has been housed in the same building since 1899. It has some Cycladic art as its main attraction, as well as the usual assortment of classical and hellenistic works.

Tinos

The island of Tinos is the third largest in the Cyclades. The port town of Tinos (where my ferry stopped) has 3,800 inhabitants and is dazzlingly white. The huge church that dominates the landscape was created with reused material from the Temple of Apollo at Delos. The island becomes swamped with people as August 15 approaches each year due to the pilgrimage on Our Lady's feast day. There is also an Archaeological Mmuseum, built in the 1960's, that houses some pottery, marble reliefs and some sculpture.

Mykonos

Though I didn't know it (I didn't research the islands at all except for Aegina, since I didn't think I would have time to make a visit), Mykonos has quite a reputation. It is a very attractive town of 4,850 inhab. The island also has extremely high commercialization and it's very touristy, but somehow I'm not sure if the Hard Rock Cafe I saw has any real affiliation with the others. The streets are purposely bewildering (to confuse the pirates that used to raid the town) and the whitewashing of the buildings and streets contrasts remarkably with the blooming flowers and bright painted doors. It wasn't into the high tourist season so I wasn't exposed to most of the traffic but I did seeMykonos harbor at night some University of South Carolina caps and a white feather coat. It is well worth a stop if your nearby if only to experience it shortly.

When the ship disembarks, you are overwhelmed with offers for lodging. Women come with their photo albums full of pictures of their dhomatia (rooms to let). There is also a good little Archaeological Museum of Mykonos with a remarkable scene of the fall of Troy on a pithos. The five white windmills that dominate the town's view are still stunning, as are the homes that reach right down to the water below them. The food was great here also. Just grab something to eat in one of Mykonos' many bakeries or cafes (Hibiscus Croissanterie is great for a quick lunch), or you can eat at Niko's Taverna (don't ask me to describe where it is at, but it is not on the bay!). The whole stay was odd but since it wasn't too crowded and it wasn't too hot, I enjoyed it. (For Mykonos travel plans, HERE. For other Mykonos info, HERE.)

Delos

The ride over from Mykonos to Delos was very choppy but not too rough. The site was so large that there's no way I can describe much of Delos here. The picture here is of the lions that line the main entrance to the southern part of the island, coming from the sanctuary. The best word to describe the site is "Big"! It would take a few days to see the entire Archaeological Site of Delos. There are plenty of tourists at the site (it has become more tourist-friendly) but since there are no permanent residents, the ruins have been well preserved throughout the entire island. The site has been preserved in modern times and excavated by the French. In 1990 the entire island was named as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. It was believed to be the birthplace of Apollo and was treated as holy by the Classical Greeks. There was a major sanctuary to Apollo here with numerous temples and dedicatory buildings. A tax free trade zone was set up here and the island's population and reputation grew quickly with many foreigners establishing buildings and even sections on the island. There is a theater and many "mansions" that have been partially restored. Their Bouleterion was discovered and is now online as is the huge theater. Also the sacred lake with it's palm tree is neat, and the mosaics in the houses are stunning. The stadium was too far away for me to make it to after the amount of time I spent at the rest of the sites, as was the "mountain" that is often trekked up for a good view of the island. Don't miss the Archaeological Museum of Delos, though they were renovating part of it when I went by. Guide books are needed here to decipher the layers and regions of the island, but don't miss any of it! Take your time walking around Delos and I know you'll enjoy it.

Backpacking in Greece: Attica, Peloponnese, Northern Greece, Islands (Part IV)

2008-05-18T07:58:00.000-07:00

I didn't get a chance to visit many cities in Central Greece, however I did read up on most of them. The ones I did make it to are listed here. Hopefully you won't be as rushed as I was and you can see some of the smaller towns. Northern Greece was hardly intruded upon by me. I did make a visit outside Thessalonika, but this was near the end of my trip and I thought it best not to schedule much.

Phokis

Delphi: (2,426 inhab.) Phokis - Topographical MapThere were really three places during my entire trip that I found I really could relax Tholos at Delphiand enjoy. Nauplio was the first, already mentioned, and Delphi is the next. From Athens it takes a few hours bus ride, though it is a nice trip through Thebes and on towards the mountains north of the Corinthian gulf. You'll first arrive at the archaeological site where there will undoubtedly be buses parked along side the road as far as you can see. This is a hint to go early in the morning. The modern town is just around the hill on past the archaeological site. It is close enough to walk to, don't even think about taking a ride back to the site. The modern town of Delphi once sat directly above the archaeological site, but when the French first began excavations, they paid to have the entire village moved a mile or so to the west. The town is relatively small and the steepness of Mt. Parnassos allows almost every hotel with a balcony to have a marvelous view. You can see all the way down to the port town of Itea where cruise ships sometimes put in to allow day trips up to the site. I looked around a while for a room and finally stayed at the Hotel Olympia (I think), which was nice, clean, and cheap with such a great view that I decided to stay an extra night just for the heck of it. Higher up the hill and on the western edge of town there was a good restaurant (Vakxos) also with (once again) some kinda view. Don't pass this terrific site up, it has panoramic views of Delphi that require a Quicktime plug-in, but it shouldn't be missed!

The Archaeological site at Delphi, (or for a more 'touristy' version, here Archaeological Site, or even here for a wonderful comprehensive site plan from Perseus and the folks at Tufts University) and the Archaeological Museum of Delphi ranks up in the top five "don't miss" destinations of the country. It has also been designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO (1987). Though I was treated very badly by the ticket taker (see the 'classic's pass' information on the Preparing page), I was glad I finally got to see the museum, though there were hundreds of school kids there. There is plenty to see at the site and I would be wasting my time if I tried to name all of the monuments and buildings there (the Bouleterion there has a site here)(you can also read Pausanias' description 10.5.3). But don't forget to take lots of pictures while looking out over the site to the beautiful view south. Also you should take the five minute walk up past the site (and the wonderful theater) to the stadium, and if you still have time you should walk on past the site to the east back to the Temple of Athena Pronaea. The sanctuary is so large that it can seem quite confusing, but the guidebooks are helpful and at this site particularly by laying out the history/mythology of the area, they have many artistic renderings of the buildings and treasuries as they should have looked. For lots of extra pictures of Delphi, try here at Delphi Photos. There is also supposedly a Late Roman Tour of Delphi online, but I have been unable to find it.

Fthiotis

Thermopylae: After swinging down from the mountains north of Delphi, we are finally deposited near the site of Thermopylae on the main highway from Thebes to Lamia. Though we didn't stop long enough to see it, there is a monument of Leonidas and further up the mountain is the site where he made his famous stand against the Persians. Learn more about this famous battle by reading a bit online (or off).

Lamia: (41,000 inhab.) Just a note here that in this boring town I had to sit for a few hours till my connecting bus arrived. It was one of the worst waits I ever had to endure. I've also heard from others confirming my opinion of the place so try to keep away from this one.

Trikala

Meteora: The towns of Kalambaka (,5692 inhab.) and Kastraki (1,278 inhab.) don't make it to St. Nicholas Monastary at Meteoramany people's trip destination lists simply because they are a little out of the way. But though this has nothing to do with ancient history, my interest, this is something I am extremely glad I decided to see. The monasteries that adorn the top of the huge rocks that make up "Ta Meteora" ("the things in the air") are just unbelievable (click here for an awesome site on Meteora with great pictures for each of the monasteries). The entire complex of monasteries has been designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1988. Even the surrounding area is very peaceful and unique, thanks to the wildlife and wonderful rock formations. Here is a thorough description of the site and its surroundings, sure to be of interest to you naturalists and a site for the more adventurous. (Here is a number of marvelous panoramic views of the monastaries and villages at Meteora. You MUST see these! You'll need the Quicktime plug-in though.).

It's easy to take a bus up in the morning to the Grand Meteora and walk back down, but all but the strongest will have to skip one or two on the way down. You've surely seen some of the monasteries in advertisements or in "For Your Eyes Only" the 007 movie. They are even more spectacular in person. It's too bad you can't take photos inside the buildings (all the more reason to buy a guidebook!). They do ask that you wear pants or skirts for this though. I am sure glad I did, since on my way to the bus station I was bit by a dog and the only thing that kept me from extreme danger was the fact that I had worn pants that day (the first time in the whole trip!)!

A nice guy runs the Hotel Odyssey on the Kastraki side of town and usually American groups are there. It is a nice walk on to Kastraki from there and enterprising people can actually just walk on to the monasteries from there. The bus station in Kalambaka is in a bad place (hard to find).

The ride to Ioannina: After leaving Kastraki for Ioannina to the west, the first rain storm I had seen in Greece came up. Also a road block stops the bus in the middle of it for thirty minutes while they search the bus. They finally get the guy behind me and take him out at gun point forcing him to get his bag under the bus and show his papers. Yelling, screaming, people looking at the show, and a driving rainstorm made it nerve-wracking. The checkpoint was made at a one lane bridge over a river and was meant to catch 11 violent criminals (I found this out the next day in the paper) who had escaped the town east of Kalambaka the night before. Turns out that Olymbiakos was playing Panathanaikos (Dominique Wilkin's team) for the Greek Pro Basketball finals the night before and all the guards at the jail were watching the game while a major prison break was occurring.

Epirus

Metsovo: (2,705 inhab.) Ioannina & Trikkala - Topographical MapActually two towns divided by a gorge. I didn't stay in Metsovo (nice site for the small town), but it is in some of the highest mountains of all Greece. It is a quaint little town with a surprising tourist edge due to the amount of crafts made here. There are ski resorts nearby and the town is a nice stop. The Pass of Katara over the Pindus mountains nearby is at 1707m. and is amazing. It should only be attempted in the best weather though, since it is above the snow line.

Ioannina: (44,000 inhab.) Actually a very pretty town cradled in the mountains of Epirus. There is Ioanninano real outlet for the huge lake at Ioannina though so it is awfully polluted. Still there are usually many people rowing on it and it looks clean from afar. There is an exceptional Byzantine Museum of Ioannina here that I would recommend if only for its up to date exhibits and nice displays. The fortified part of the town is also nice to see and there is an Archaeological Museum of Ioannina, but stick to the waterfront and touristy area. Few people in this region speak any English at all though they are a bit nicer. Not that many tourists make it up here as compared to the rest of the country. It appears to me that the relatively high rates in this town may be due to a lack of competition. I wound up paying a high rate for a bad room, but there aren't that many choices and on a weekend you're out of luck. Mine was the Hotel Astoria but I wouldn't recommend it unless you were hard up. (By the way, I noticed here that people look at you strange if you put ketchup directly onto your french fries. Strange but true. And Mexican Chicken with "salsa" can actually be "sauce-a" meaning mustard if your not careful.)

If you've made it this far then you should be sure and go see the sanctuary and theater at Dodona (the real reason that I'm in Ioannina at all).

Dodona: One of the best preserved theaters in all of Greece is located here and it is the big draw. Sanctuary of Zeus at DodonaDodona is around 13 miles from Ioannina, nestled into a valley between spectacular mountains on one side and some large hills on the other. There is only one hotel and they will rip you off, but if you walk a couple miles up hill, you can get to the village of Dodona where you can get a decent room for an ok price if no one else is around. NO ENGLISH at all is spoken here. Luckily I caught a local celebration at around 7pm the night I was there and was able to see some dances and performances in traditional costumes. The sanctuary at the theater was the reason the complex was built in the first place. It was an oracle much like Delphi but much older. There are few remains at the Archaeological Site of Dodona, but the acropolis does extend from the top of the theater (I bet you wouldn't be surprised if I told you that you can find out more about their Bouleterion online). Watch out for snakes though! I saw a couple and the locals warned me and the other two tourists (Swiss) by the international symbols for snakes (making your hand like a "C" and hissing while you snap at people). Cool area gets chilly after being in the Peloponnese for a while. You definitely realize your not in the big city anymore in this part of the country. Mules are still common as transportation in places and herds of goats are blocking the road sometimes too.

Pieria

The very long trip from Ioannina to Thessaloniki is only sparked by the passing through the Vale of Tempe, a strategic pass that has been hewn deep into the mountain by a river alongside the modern road. Extremely narrow at points, it was the major entrance between Macedonia and the south.

Once you've gone through the pass, you'll enter Pieria, the southermost part of Macedonia. Another amazing site was the castle of Platamon on the edge of the sea (shortly after passing through Tempe where another narrow passage is created). It was built by the crusaders in 1204 and with the cloudy weather, sea, and general area, it is easy to forget you're in Greece and not in England or Ireland.

Dion: Though I didn't stop in Dion (negotiating a bus ticket from Ioannina to Dion would not have been my idea of a good day), I did pass by it and hope to visit the archaeological site there someday. Much of the Roman city has been uncovered.

Mount Olympus: The mountain can be seen, but only in the best weather. It is usually clouded at the top, but you aren't supposed to be able to see the gods now are you?! If you want a good view of the mountain, you might need to take a look at this site with plenty of photos (this one is even better!!). For a video of a hike to 2,000 feet up the mountain (47 seconds worth), try this link.

Salonika

Thessalonika: (400,000 inhab.) The second city of Greece is arrived at after passing through miles and miles of swampy areas and rice fields, but it sits on a narrow plain between the Thermaic Gulf and nearby mountains to the east. Thessalonika is not a very picturesque town, Church of Saint Demetriosthe bay was very choppy while I was there and wind was strong. The city was the "Cultural Capital of Europe for the year of 1997" and they (and country for that matter) were very proud of the designation. You can start your visit of Thessalonika with a visit to one of the numerous historic churches, of which quite a number are now represented online. Try the Church of Saint Demetrios. It was the one I visited while I was there and it was quite a sight, especially the Crypt of Saint Demetrios in the bottom of the building. If you really like the Byzantine sites, try any number of these: Church of Saint Panteleimon, Church of Prophet Elijah, Church of St. Nicholas Orphanos, The Church of Acheiropoietos, Church of Aghioi Apostoloi (the Holy Apostles), Church of Our Lady of the Coppersmiths, Church of Aghia Sophia. There is also a Byzantine museum in The White Tower, which is the landmark of the city and is found on most Salonika motifs. Construction is still underway at the massive new Museum of Byzantine Civilization, but you can still visit part of the building, where exhibitions are open. There is also a site with panoramic views of Thessalonika.

If you prefer the Classical Greek, Hellenistic, or Roman periods, take heart, there's plenty to see here. First you can stop by the excellent Archaeological Museum of Thessalonika. It is the second best in the country behind the NAM in Athens. You can also walk around the theater and the Ancient Forum, currently under excavation, which is right in the heart of the city. You can't miss the city walls (well preserved), the huge Arch of Galerius, built in 305 A.D., and the Mausoleum of Galerian, once a church, then a mosque (with minaret), then a church, then a Byzantine museum, and now undergoing reconstruction after earthquakes in the 1970's. It's also known generally as the Rotunda.

Though I didn't make it to these sites, they are also very important archaeologically and are not far from Thessalonika:

Vergina: Vergina is the archaeological site where the royal tombs of Macedon were excavated in the late 1970's, yielding a treasure trove of items including the bones of Philip II, father of Alexander the Great. Since then the items have been displayed at the Archaeological Museum of Thessalonika and at the museum at the site. This is yet another Greek site that has been designated as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO (1996). You can read about the site and Philip II from the primary sources, all online! The material has been gathered here.

Pella

Pella: (2,272 inhab.) Catch the bus in Thessalonika early and head out to Pella, modern center of the praefecture of Pella, and the Ancient Pella (mid-right), Modern Pella (background)birthplace of Alexander the Great and served as the palace of Macedonia (read up on Alexander here). The remains at The Archaeological Site at Pella are not that large but some very nice villas have been found with amazing mosaics. (The picture here shows the modern town in the upper right portion of the screen. The site is the small, cleared out space almost halfway up the right side of the photo) The homes that are there now are extremely large and there is a fresh water system that runs under the street. There has been more discoveries a little distance from the site (possibly the palace on a small acropolis and some temples that aren't ready for public viewing yet), but it will be a while till they are included with the site. My visit was cut a little short when a pack of hungry looking stray dogs started to wander towards me, the only person at the site. There is a nice Archaeological Museum of Pella across the highway with some of the mosaics, but its best pieces have been taken out for an international exhibit (in Rome I think). The town in the picture is about two kilometers from the site. The landscape is vastly different than anything else you'll see in Greece. There are no hills for as far as you can see, just flat, good farmland.

I actually rode back to Thessalonika with a woman who stopped to pick up the other man at the bus stop and asked me "Salonika?" Maybe a little risky, but in my entire trip in Greece I never felt really threatened. But why would a thief want to try to take the bag away from a 6'4" college boy when there are countless old ladies with purses containing alot more than my bag probably would. Also I might catch 'em.

Chalkidiki

Potidaea: The city of Potidaea was located near the narrowest point of the peninsula. It was an important Potidaea from the airclassical city whose rebellion against Athens helped cause the Peloponnesian War.

Olynthos: Olynthos is of special importance since the person who excavated it, David M. Robinson, later donated much of his collection to the University of Mississippi. You can see much of the collection online at the David M. Robinson Collection. The excavation of the Archaeological Site of Olynthos was important because it provided quite a lot of information to scholars on the average Greek homes of the period (4th century B.C.) (the Bouleterion there was also found). It also provides a firm date for pottery styles since almost the exact date of its destruction is known and no other habitation at the site disturbed the material. At the online site, you can see a Mosaic of Bellerephon. And on our site, you can see a scale painting of the same mosaic (along with several others from the site) by the German archaeologist Baron von Peschke, who recreated many of the mosaics at Olynthos.